Raiment.

Bruce Herald, Volume XXX, Issue 3102, 26 September 1899, Page 6

Raiment.

Home Millinery. By 'MIRABEL, In " Schild's MonthlyJournal." (Abridged.) It; 13 the velvet hat which engrosser all bur attention at the moment. \V< 'see >it in every size, from the smallest toque to the largest piece of htadgear -that surely fashion has ever decreed. There is no gainsaying the fact that hats are larger than of yore, that they are more elaborately trimmed, and that they are even more becoming than formerly. There is a great fancy for frills at the moment, frills surrounding the crown and the brim, and between tnem is a twin" of ribbon, finishing at the back In a large outstanding bow. Another fashion much in favour ia the frilled velvet hai with roses round the cruwn and chine ribbon bows above. Supposing that you have the (round lo -crowned) velvet untrlmmed hat in hand (smaller then the picture hat), we will consider the decoration. This may accord or contrast with the foundation For Instance, the hat can be of green or dark blue velvet, while the frills are deep red. Lt us suppose, however, that harmony prevails, and that the velvet foundation and frills match in tint or are but different gradations of one colour. ] In Burgundy miroir velvet the frills would look lovely. To make them will need three-quarters of a yard of material, on the cross. Cut this Into four pieces of equal width, and Join two and two together, making in all a couple of long strips. Let us begin by putting on the outer frill. Take one of the strips of velvet, join the two ends on the wrong side, making it Into a circle, and fold the strips in half, lengthw'se. Turn up the edge of the velvet on either side Just a wee bit, to form a single hem, and gather up each edge independently. Insert the brim of the hat—or, rather, th« edge of the brim—in this frill, which you should pin to the hat while you gathei up the drawing thread to the desired tension. Knot it securely, and then regulate the fulness of the velvet, taking care thai the Joins are placed in the least conspicuous spot. Now sew on the frill with silk to match, the stitches being Itvisible amid the fulness. Prepare the second frill in the same way, but In this case you can gather up the two edges simultaneously, both being sewn to the upper side of the brim instead of one underneath and one above, as with the outer frill. Of course, if you find that the second frill needs less material, the curve of the brim here being smaller, you can easily cut off a portion of the velvet. This frill should slightly overlap the inner edge of the first frill, and should be sewn neatly to the velvet brim, a portion of which is consplcuouß between the necond frill and the crown of the hat. Have ready one yard and a half of chine ribbon, quite five inches wide ; one with a light buff ground designed in pink and dull gold would ioorc Well. Cover the crown, which Is low. with ribbon. To do this cut off a piece to the measurement of the circumference of the base of the crown, place the ribbon around, as you wonld a band, turning up the edge a wee bit ; fix it with an invisible stitch here and there (letting the join be right In the front of the hat), and gather up the top edge of the ribbon, drawing it to the shape of the crown and fixing it with a few stitches. The object of.having the ribbon five inches wide is now clear, and also the reason for placing the join in the front, since lt is afterwards concealed by the bow and the flowers. Make up the rest of your ribbon into a couple of large spreading loops and upright ends, which you can do from a single piece of ribbon without cutting it. Start from the two ends, pleat them at a distance of about five inches, bring these pleats together, uniting them to the centre of the Intermediate strip of ribbon, and sew all togetlier, when rho bow will be completed, gave for tl-.e twist of ribbon which ls passed through a paste buck!*, and apparently holds the loops together. This scrap of ribbon should be cut off before starting on the bow, which, when finished, is set on the top of the crown, the buckle being- placed uprightly. It only remains n<>w for four or five roses, of a dull pinkish golden shade, to be set round the crown in front, the number varying according to the size.