Our ladies' .Column

Bruce Herald, Volume XXX, Issue 3030, 24 January 1899, Page 2

Our ladies' .Column

» ' ; — From beginning to end this article will be devoted aoMy to matters concerning evening dress, little details with respect to which I have not yet made you acquainted. And perhaps the moat important point is that regarding Bleevef. Now there are various grades of bodices which are under tbe heading of |C evening," aod the.se ought really to be subdivided, for beside full ball bodices there as those classed an " theatre "' and " dinner," and the presence or absencn of the sleeves depends largely upon the occasion for which the bodice is intended. Therefore we have quite long eleevps, sleeveß to the elbow, two extremes — i.e., quite long sleeves and no Bleeves at all — with two intermediate grades, namely, elbow sleeves and just the ordinary little puff at the top of the arm. Consequently, so far as sleeves are concerned, we have plenty of choice. Undoubtedly the very latest are those which come to tbe elbow — though they are by no means the most generally adopted as yet — and it is to Paris that we owe their revival. They are, or ought to be, perfectly plain into the arm hole, and fit the arm tightly until the elbow is reached, from which point there is much scope for the display of rare and costly old lac j , or else of pretty chiffon frills for nomething of the kind ia quite indiapensable according to the present fashions. It is important to take care that the elbow is covered — especially a sharp and bony protuberance. These plain eleeves are the height of fashion, provided that the material of which they are made is sufficiently substantial, each as velvet or satin or silk, or some other material of Bubstance. But if elbow sleeves are required in a thin and airy fabric then it is permisbible for that fabric to be gathered or rucked or gauged, but it must be cloße fitting for all that. Again f some of these fitting Bleeves can hardly be called sleeves at all for they are scarcely more than shoulder caps, with one or more frills round the edge. While nothing could be newer than elbow sleeves, and though these are really the most correct, young people do not always care for them, especially if they be the lucky possessors of pretty dimpled arms. So bodices for such girls are made without aay sleeves at all, there being only just a shoulder strap of narrow velvet with a wired velvet bow standing up on one or both phoulders, or ehe there is a band of jetted or eequined ioeertioa, or often just a strap of lace. Then there is another variety of bodice —be the sleeves long or short — which leaves the poibtof the shoulder exposed, bat theee bodices make one fe9l uncomfortable, for you are haunted with the idea that the sleeves are about to drop off. One more kind Btill iB the very long^leeve which must come well over the wrist and be cut off in a point over the back of the hand ; sleeves of tbia stamp are frequently made of rich and expensive real lace of a handsome and effective design, ivory -colored Iribh guipure being specially in request for the long and tight sleeves ; silk and velvet sleeves are made in the same way. Bat when the long tight sleeve is made of a transparent and flimsy material this may be rucked ; and a great many are treated in this way, though, be it remembered, it is far from being new pretty even though it be. But it does seem a little incongruous to meet with a low cut bodice which has long tight sleeves, and yet many are made like this. When there is a chemisette to correspond with the sleeves, of course that is quite " another pair of shoes." But the two clisses of people who usually adopt this mode are those who are inclined to ba delicate and those who are unmistakably and visibly and undeniably scraggy. Louis Seize bows are all the rage, for bodice and skirt al'ke, and whereas sometimes only one is used, at other times the numbeia multiply, and the most J have seen on one costume was seven. The skirt, in this instance, had a good deal of drapery about it, and this drapery was caught up on each ipwith ft wirei bow, m well as qq

each knee and in the middle width of the nkirt near tbe hem ; betdde one on the left shoulder and one on the right hand side 'of the waist. These bows are usually of black or white or colored velvet, but occasionally satin ribbon is u?ed in their construction' Often the only one used on aa entire dre3B is tucked in at the waist instead of a loop of ribbon. Ribbon hows are rather at a discount j ia fact, ribbon trimmings generally are just now, and if people do want anything in the way of ribbon' it mußt take tie shape of a rosette which ;is considered smarter than a bow. And ia addition to the Louid Seize knot?, others of the true lover's type are in great demand. Tbe rosettes «»« generally made with wired petal*, aud often only one is the sole adornment to a girl.-) dress, and it ia wonderfully pretty too. The rosette which has a j^welitd buckle or button in the centre is not uncommon. Some* times, too, these rosette? are made o^ harmonising colors, and aeon a little way off 1 hay look like large flowers atiff wi^ed munlln also is employed in the construction of rosettes. — London correspondent ' New Zealand Herald.'