Explorations in New Guinea.

Bruce Herald, Volume IX, Issue 805, 23 May 1876, Page 3

Explorations in New Guinea.

The following is a copy of a very interesting letter which has been addressed by Mr Octaviua C. Stone, E.K.Gr N , now travelling^in ;NW Zealand, to^thePiesideatLof;? the Royal Geographical Society, Lou don: — Somerset, February 22, 1870. Sib,— l had the honor of writing yon a short note from Port Moresby last December, giving some account of my experiences in the peninsula of New Guinea, wherein I stated that, owing to the great difficulty, and at other times, utter impossibility of procuring native carriers or guides, I and my party have been unable to penetrate more than twenty-five miles inland. 1 now take -the liberty of sending you a more detailed account of my observations), regretting only that iv a geographical point of view it should not embrace so much of the peninsula as I had hoped to have seen and described. PHYSICAL PEA.TU3ES. When we arrived at Port Moresby on the 29th October, 1575, the hills around presented ; a barren and parched-up appearance. They jut out into the sea in a succession of low conical mounds, averaging 400 ft. high, forming a range on either side of the harbor, and becoming higher the further they recede from it. Their formation is limestone, and mixed with a covering of the poorest soil are fragments of decayed coral, while the sides are strewn with pieces of rock, among which a red translucent sort of flint, called by the natives vesika, is predominant, and ' also a white non-auriferous quartz. A J seam of plumbago runs along the eastern shores of Fairfax Harbor, continuing in a more or less pure condition for a couple of miles, and it is the only mineral which I positively know exists The three villages of Anuapata, Tanapata, and Elevara, containing a total population of nearly 700, are situated on the beach east of Moresby harbor, at a distance of two miles from its opening, and behind them extends a valley of the same length, while Mount Tapaliarti, rising like the keel of a boat 750 feet high, closes it in. The sides of all these hills partake of the same barren nature, being partially covered by open forests of gum trees (Eucalypti) averaging eight or ten yards apart, the intervening spaces growing coarse grass six or eight feet high, which is annually burnt down in the month of September, when it has become dried like hay from the excessive drought and solar heat. Patches of dark-foliaged scrub or jungle usually clotbe each mountain, gully, and rsvine at rare intervals, the lower portion of the hill sides being \ similarly adorned. These trees are alive I with the songs of birds, amoDg which parrots and doves of various species are the most common.' The hills along the coast must have risen from the sea level within a comparatively recent epoch, for shells, such as the cliama, stromhus, cyprcea, conus, spondylm, nerita, &c ., similar to those existing in the sea at the present day, are found at a height of no less than 600 feet.

The whole country is broken up into bills, mountains, detached chains, and valleys, fiiich chains usually running nearly parallel with the coast, but become iess regular and not so numerous as they approach it. Hence for the first twenty miles fairly fertile valleys and plains' are not unfrequenfcly met, though the mountain slopes, which may be eaid to occupy three-fourths of the entire area, still retain their unkindly, barren, and rocky nature. The land, nevertheless, becomes gradually more fertile as you approach the interior, and after passing the river Laroki, t.en miles distant, numerous mountain streams and watercourses cut it up in various directions, assisting in no slight degree to the desired end. At the twentieth mile a total change in the character of the country is at once observable, and with it the Bird of Paradise (JParadisea Raggins), and two other species, at oiioe appear. The gum trees and open country then give way to dense forests of tall trees and undergrowth, which completely cover the northern ranges, excepting the upper part of Owen Stanley*, with one impenetrable mass of foliage. Their euinmits become rounder, less undulated, and their heights increase to -1000 feet as they near the great central backbone of the peninsula, when Mount Owen Stanley rises in double peak to a height that has been estimated as much as 13,265 feet. The face of this mighty rock is rent into a series of volcanic irregularities, crevices, and chasms, throwing out arms iv a westerly direction, while what I take to be an extinct crater exists below the western peak. The more easterly of these peaks is called Bitoka, and the other Birika. A narrow gap is the only one discernible in this imposing ranjre, whose height averages 8000 feet, being seen some eight miles to the south, and in a nearly south-easterly direction from Port Moresby, and it is probably through thifl opening that the easiest way of crossing the peninsula will be found.

tracks are numerous in the open country, and likewise penetrate these interminable forests, winding sometimes over the hills, and at others aloug the course of rushing siieatr>s whose beds are full of many-colored rocks rounded by constant friction. Brick-red and green rocks are most conspicuous in the Yetura Rivulet, the former looking like marble, and being hard but exceedingly tough. White quartz is also common there, and in one place its bed is of a slaty nature, with veins of quartz running through it, nor are any of the rocks found therein free from similar streaks. This rivulet I have called Vetura from the name of the mountain which supplies its first sources. Mount Vetura is situated seventeen miles Dorth-east of Port Moresby, and is from its particular shape an uufailiug landmark.

It forms the south-west point of the Vetura JtJange, whence it rises in a pagodashaped mound to a height of 1200 feet, the lower part being clothed with vegetation, while tufts of grass are seen clinging to the bare rockwork above, which is wo.ru 'into a suceesion of irregular steps with vertical rents in them; through the strata run nearly horizontally. This range may be two miles wide, and in length eight or ten, curving round to the north-east, and forming on its west or inner side an amphitheatre of hills 1000 feet high, which includes within it ; the district of Munikaira and several villages. Upon the summit, at a height of 1600 ft, is a table land sloping slightly inwards, covered at its southern extremity with gum trees (Eucalypti), and then changing into dense scrub. The northern side rises from the valley beneath like the walls of some leviathan fortress, and on the inner side the rocks fall perpendicularly for a distance of 200 ft,* whence grass-covered slopes trend toward the stream below. Leaping from the tableland over the tall cliffs isa cascade, called Mariabu, which falls in one unbroken volume into the gorgef that conducts its waters to the Vetura Eivulet. This stream averages fifteen yards wide, and, when I saw it, in December, was two feet deep, running in a westerly direction, with a current of three miles an hour; though after severe rains, it is much swollen, overflowing its banks in many places, and assisting to give nutriment by this means to the belt of tall trees that rise on either hand. A valley separates the most northerly point of Mount Astrolabe — Variata— from Vetura to its north ; and through this wiadß the river called Laroki, already mentioned, when it takes a turn northwards towards the high mountains. It is sometimes spoken of as the Manumanu by the island tribe, flowing westward and falling into the sea at the village of Manumanu, situated at the mouth of Captain Moresby's Usborne in Eedscar Bay, which is no doubt one and the same river, or a branch of it. On the authority of several natives, I am assured that another branch of the same river empties itself into the sea at Elaro, some four miles south of Hula (Hood Point). The average width where we crossed, nearly thirty miles from its mouth, was thirtyfive yards, depth six feet, and current four miles an hour, while its waters must remain fresh until within a comparatively short distance of the sea. Owing to the force and depth of this current, our baggage could not be carried over ; so a raft had to be constructed, and firmly secured by long ropes before launching it on the rolling tide. The banks, which are of rich black soil, rise abruptly to a height varying from four to ten feet about the surface. A few miles lowir down, where I first came upon it, they were of the former height ; hence, after heavy rains,, it overflows at such place*, creating swamps on its subsidence. A belt of trees on either side, some of whose trunks measure 4ft. in diameter and 100 ft. high, growing perfectly erect and void of lower branches, marks the river's course. The river is nearly clear of snags and fallen trunk?, but its rapidity and numerous windings condemn it for purposes of navigation — excepting, perhaps, to small steamlaunches. The Vetura rivulet flows into it a little west of the point at which we crossed, and it receives the waters of several smaller streams. Among these the Baikana, mt miles on the track thither from Port Moresby, 1^ feefc wide and 2 feet deep, may be mentioned as affording excellent drinking water. On the road to Mount Astrolabe — Variata— in an E.N.E. direction, such another stream is crossed flowing southwards towards Bootless Inlet, as well as numerous dried-up watercourses varying in size from mere ditches to ordinary brooks. The rainy season commences in December and lasts till May, so that during most of this period they must be more or less filled with water. I cannot with certainty say that the whole country is divided into districts, but there are nevertheless certain portions distinctly named which (Eoatain several villages. In illustration, I merely Daention Baruni, in Fairfax Harbor, which includes the villages of Matenimut, Buiarara, and Babu j while twenty miles dua N,E. of Port Moresby commences the district of Munikaira, containing the villages of l£ininimu, Barabutiak, (xokopoto, Matagorogoro, Farunumo, and several others. NATIVE CULTIVATION. The inhabitants of each village own the country for several miles around. The members of each family possess a plot fif land as near as possible to their own homes, whose boundaries &ra clearly defined and understood by their next neighbors, if not by the entire village. Either the whole or a part of this is neatly fenced iv and planted with bananas.. In the neighborhood of Port Moresby the hill sides are covered by such plantations, which must occupy a total area of some 350 acres. Yams and taros, disposed in very limited quantities among the bananas, constitute the remaining portion of the agricultural produce of Port Moresby. Owing, however, to the inferiority of the soil many h\\ to bear, and none attain that perfection vybich we QnA them doing in tbs interior. There the frequent raius among the mountains couse | the soil to become very life- giving and nutritious, so that the land possesses all the qualifications necessary to its successful cultivation. Bananas grow luxuriantly, while sugar-cane, yams, taros, and sweet potatoes attain an immense size. The bread-fruit (Gardenia ednJis), betel catechu), mango (Mangifeva Indioa) called yahi by the natives, and sago palm * The appearance of this mountain reminded me of Grunib, Schaiayl's stronghold in the Caur caeus. f After tho manner of the Staubach, near luterlaken ? in Switzerland,

(Sagus.rumpldi), are indigenous, though the latter is scarce, abounding further to the north— at Ilema — in large quantities. Tobacco is cultivated in the interior, and I likewise found chillies, cucumbers, watermelons, and vegetable marrows. Purple grapes are found, and a pink stone fruit resembling an apple in form and taste, having a white pulpy interior, and called by the natives maita,, was plentiful. Wild oranges grow sparsely in the Vicinity Of Xule Island (Roro), and the nutmeg tree (Myristica fragrant)- is abundant more to the west, near the Fly river. That other tropical fruits and spices would flourish in the interior of the peninsula there is little doubt, for both soil and climate seem essentially suited to the cultivation of coffee. Of the sugarcane there are already eight indigenous sorts, and by adopting the terrace-system of irrigation rice might bft made to form an important item in her productions. In the open land the cotton-tree (Bomhaa pentandrum) is not uncommon, and the growth of the plant might be attended with satisfactory results. Cocoanut groves are usually found overshadowing f,he coast villages of the peninsula, though in proportion to the population, who partly subsist upon the fruit, they are generally inadequate to their requirements. At Hula, however — a village situated on the north of the promontory forming Hood Pomt — they are particularly plentiful, hence annual trading voyages are made between the months of October and January to Port Moresby and adjoining villages, bringing cocoanut s from the South and sago from the North, j which they chiefly exchange for earthenware pottery. EACES. The race inhabiting the peninsula of New Guinea differs materially in physique from that peopling the main body of the island westwards. Their color varies from light yellowish brown to rich coffee brown ; whereas the pure Papuan (about the Fly river) has an intensely dark-brown skin, but not nearly black — a shade indeed similar to the islanders of the Loyalty Group. In stature the peninsula race are not so tall or such powerfullooking men, and in disposition are less warlike, but are endowed with a greater degree of intelligence, that only requires training to raise them from their present lethargy into a useful sphere of society. It is a notable fact, notwithstanding, that the Papuans appear to possess the art of figural carving, coloring, and imitation in a greater measure than the more docile race, and it would not surprise me to find, when more is known of them, that, but for their cannibal propensities, they are more enlightened than most savage races. So little intercourse, however, has been had with them that I shall be content for the present to confine my observations to the people among whom I have been residing. It is difficult to draw any positive conclusion as to where the light race of the peninsula first came from, or at what remote period of time such influx took place. That they are not the true aboriginals of the island is as certain as that they are not pure Malay. Their character is entirely different to that of the quiet, apathetic, reserved, and undemonstrative Malay, and though some are of the same yellowish complexion, the great majority are very much darker. The hair of the Malay is black, long, and straight ; but in the race we are considering it is black, and sometimes auburn, long and frizzed, varying in color, thought not so much in iorm, among the different tribes. Their hair resembles mostly that of the Eastern Polynesians, though it is more frizzed ; their complexions are darker ; they are more vivacious ; and the nose is slightly less aquiline. The construption of their languages is similar i. in some instances to those of Eastern Polynesia, several words being alike, while others evidently derived from it. lam therefore induced to believe that the people now inhabiting the south-east portion of New Guinea have in long years of time made their way thither from the eastern islan4s of thp South Pacific (whence they were carried by strong north- west winds and tides over the coral eeas) without first landing on the peninsula, residing at various places on their way, until their population bepoming too numerous, pr from other causes, they or their offspring were compelled to wend their way further west? wards. On landing at various times, they have driven, many of the aborigines from tbp sea coast, ap4 after multiplying in population, have extended theis? invasion to the interior aud marched northwards, until the whole peninsula, so far as I have &c.en Jj-qd bpjieye. js now peopled by them. Intermarriages between these two' peopip must have taken place, and it is the result pf this connection which has placed thereon a pace f&v aboyp this ordinary savage in both physical and moral attributes. i This Papu.a-Malay race is divided into I many tribes, as we find Scotland was in by-gons days divided into so many feudalclans, each' speaking a distinct language or dialect, which may be accounted for in two ways. Either they have landed at various periods In our world's h'pitpry, or they hare lived in each a state of feudalism aji4 4' s tf n ' tm one with another, that their languages haye ee^eed to hpar morq tl>au a faint resemblance to each other, an 4in some cases none whatever. Of these two theories J aux inclined to believe the former. It is impossible at present to say how many tribes the peninsula contains ■; if we place the unknown portions againpfc those occupied by tribes whose names and the approximate position of whose country I shall hereafter give, we shall have a total number of nearly twenty, through this would not represent more than half the number of dialects spoken. For its size, New Guinea will be found to possess more languages and dialects than any

other country probably in the world. Commencing at the north of the Gulf we find:— 1. The Ilema tribe extending along the coast from Muro, a little north of Freshwater Bay, to and including Oiabu, situated about ten miles above Yule Island (Roro)— distance, 50 miles. 2. The Maiva tribe extending coastwise from Oiabu to and including Kapatsi, ! situated to the west of Manumanu (Usborne) — distance, 4o- miles. i 3. The Mott tribe, extending along the coast from Kapatsi, to and including Kapakapa (Round Head) —distance, 60 miles. 4. The Koitapu tribe, living on eminences overlooking the sea, and occupying the country of the Motu. 5. The Kirapuna tribe, extending along the sea coast from Kapakapa to Muru — district, about 40 miles. 6. The Mountain tribe, called Koiari by the Motu, and Kuni by the Kirapuno, are the most widely diffused, occupying a large area in the interior, whose limits lengthways are uncertain, but which includes the whole country lying behind Anuapata, as far as Mount Owen Stanley, if not farther. West of and adjoining Ilema are the Namau Papuan tribe spoken of by the Papua-Malays with abhorrence as being much given to cannibalism. Their country exteuds from Muro to Ipiko, one of the farthest points westward to which the trading canoes of the Motu ever go, and near to which is a large river that in ali probability is the Aird. Not far from that point the country of the Daude Papuan commences. Each of these tribes either varies in physique or has some peculiar characteristic of its own in dress, manners, or usage, whereby it can be readily distinguished from any other. In dress alone, for instance, the Kirapuno differs from the Motu in the substitution of a yellow stained belt for a plain uncolored one, and in a shell being suspended by a back lock of hair passed through a hole iv the centre. The Koiari and Koitapu natives wear shells suspended in the same way only by two or three front locks instead of one back one, and a head-dress from the fur of the cuscus is peculiar to them. The Motu wear no shells suspended in this way, while the Ilema and Maiva may be distinguished by their fine netted collars and belts, and the Ilema by their shell wristlets, &c. The Ilema, Maiva, Motu, and Kirapuno tribes speak perfectly distinct languages, while the Koitapu and Koiari are dialects one of the other, though dissimilar to any of the four just named. It is with the Ilema natives that we first see certain distinct characteristics of both races blending in one. There the spear, hitherto the war weapon of the peninsula, is first thrown into dißuae, and the bow and arrow of the Papuan adopted in its place, made however of dark smooth cocoanut wood instead of the ribbed bamboo. There, too, the cannibal habits of their western neighbors cease, yet they do not attain to that nice sense of taste peculiar among those to the east, which despises the flesh of dog 3 and rats. Polygamy is common among them as with the Papuans, though this is the exception among the eastern race. They vary considerably in depth of color, some being as light as any Motu, while the majority have darker skins. Having briefly noted certain characteristics of this tribe common to both races, I now propose to give some account of the Motu and others among whom I principally resided. THE MOTU TRIBE. This tribe is short of stature, the average height of the men being only sft 4in, and of the women 4ft HMn, while the girth round the chest of the former is Sft E)in. The color of their skin varies in different individuals, though not so much as it does among the Hula natives, the whitest resembling in Bhade a Portuguese, and the darkest being of a dark chocolate oolor. In the children the hair is black, and often straight or in ringlets. In the young men it might be taken for blapk by the genera) observer, though it is usually blaok only near the roots, fading off towards the extremities to a burnt sienna tint, more noticeable when the sun shines upon it. It is chiefly worn frizzed out into a light airy mass projecting fiin round the cranium., for which purpose an iihcari, or frizzing -. pan, is constantly worn in. it. The elderly rqen have shorter hair, which becomes thinner with age, and either takes the form of dark curving locks, leayiug the tqp part qf the head naked, ov in some instances turns grey. That of the women is the same ; but on the death of a husband it is skilfujly shaved oft' by a piece of ebell, though " allowed tp grow again ; they have rounder features than the men. Like the other coast tribes I have mentioned, th_67 vypar t\q hair on thp face, the Foots of which are artificially extracted, leaving only the eyelashes. The young men are pliglatly built, well proportioned,, athletic in appearance, and as a rule not bad looking, and intelligent. The Mongolian form of eye is just perceptible ;n a very few 5 but in all the tribes it is of a chestnut color. The forehead is high and not so flat as in a European^ curving sharply at its junction with the cranium, but it is not prominent ; the face is ovaliform, and the maxillary profile only moderately nrognatb.ua. The noee is aquiline, having the apex rounded off and the nostrils very slightly distended, while the true Roman shape, only thicker, is occasionally met with. The ears are small, mouth rather large, lips of the medium thickness ancj well formed, feet and hands large. In one or two per cent, of the population the Jewish type of feature is unmistakable, though in the others there is no similarity whatever. On the islands adjoining the mainland to the west of the gulf, among the Torres Strait islanders or Kulkaliga race — which is more allied to the Papuan —I observed this type more frequently presenting itself,