The Ladles' Column.

Bruce Herald, Volume IX, Issue 804, 19 May 1876, Page 7

The Ladles' Column.

aEXEIUT* REMARKS OH" THE FASII'OXS

Fur-lined cloaks have become general and common, therefore Parisian eiegautes adopt ostrich feathers for linipgs, It

sounds.,fehe. very arrogance of pride, yet feathers-are less costly than furs. Thousands of tips have been sold at a few pence each in England, and are really ostrich feathers, but are taken from the sides and nofc the tail of the bird, and it is of this description .that cheap feather trimming is sold. Dresses are still worn very long— that is, tbe trains and the dresses are simply like petticoats, and the train is tied under the bodice afc the back. Patent hooks are attached to the train, and the almost invisible eyes to the dress, so that the two can be rapidly atfcfcaehed, or otherwise. Iv many instances bows of ribbons are added, both by way of ornament and to conceal the union ; but if the hooks on the train be skilfully sewed in about two inches from the boarder, there is nothing to conceal. Morning dresses are made to shape like the old paletot; it is the shape so well known by that name, only it is quite square in the skirt at the back, aud is much longer in the front than afc the back. When made in silk ifc is lined with silk of a different color. Skirfc and paletot must match in color, but not in material. Silk stockings to match in color, and shoes with butterfly bows of ribbons of the same tint, divided in the centre by a studded steel buckle. Skirts are trimmed very elaborately in the front when there is no tablier, but the train is wide, and its fulness arranged in pleats under a wide box pleat afc the back. Frequently these pleats extend from the neck downwards, and are nofc caught in any way on the outside, but only with a string on the inside, which ties round the waist. Tabliers still continue to be worn, and rightly so, for they appear to break the uniformity of a tightly-drawn figure. They are finished always with a deep sash afc the back, the ends sometimes reaching to the bottom of the slightly-trained dress. When a train is worn, the ends of the tablier are concealed under the pleated breadth at the back. The cuirass, or, as the French term ifc, the armor bodice, is worn very much, but is not so popular, excepting in certain ultra-fasbzooable quarters, aer the long jacket bodice, which has plain basques, with not an indication of fulness. M. Worth has introduced a armor bodice of fine buckskin, which is embroidered all over with bright and blue steel beads. Tbis new caprice is said to be very costly • ifc has nofc yet been seen in England. This cuirass or corslet is worn over a garnet gold velvet robe. A sash of ivory crepe de chine with long ends is tied at the side. The old-fashioned corset bodice worn in the latter parfc of the reign of George 11. is reintroduced. It is made of small whalebone slips, exactly as if a stay were so madej fche bones are supple, thin, and placed close together ; they have r.o shoulder straps. Over this the dress is fitted and worn. All this argues for the future disfigurement of the form. It wbispers of compressed waists aud consequent illness, of difficulty of breathing and of taking wholesome exercise, and in maternity of btunted aud rickety children. If only maidens would nofc be led by tbe fancies of a set of women whose names are disgraced, and who invariab'y adopt outre costumes to attract notoriety, it would be better for society. Upon cuirass bodices sleeves are tight, but otherwise they are demi-fittiug, and all have a trimming just above the wrist. In materials, tbe following are worn : — Silks, plain and brocaded ; woollen stuffs of all kinds, including French merino, cashmere, and Parramatta ; also a gre variety of different fabrics, such as niatelasse, velvets and satins. The richer the material the more distinguished-looking is the wearer. Contrasting colors in trimmings are no longer seen on a dress, excepting ivory color, which is the richest tint of cream. Plain silk trimmed with brocaded silk, velvets on silk, and the reverse. Braids of all kinds — gold, silver, and steel, mingled with black. Fringes, and ecru lace —On black silk for elderly ladies black lace over white i-i the fittest trimming. Fiat pleafcings mingled with plain spaces of the material are worn. For young ladies' ball dresses tarlatan is the only wear. The skirts have puffings round the tabliers, and between these puffings ar© loops of ineh-rride creamcolored satiu ribbon. The slighlly trained skirts havo puffings as trimmings -termed bouillones. This tarlatan h no longer white, but cream-colored ; indeed, in whatever material white once reigned all is now of tha rich ivory tint, and when flowers are introduced they must be in harmony with the tint of the robe. Upon cream-color, tea-roses with brown foliage; upon pink gauz-3, or silk trimmed with pink grenadine, the China ro^B, or pink flowers and green fejjage. The richer robes of safiq have r^agnificont lace upon fchet*r*i but alao they havo garlands of flowers, principally of the lighter tint of the trimmings, borne of thseo garlands pass down the. hfiok, run along the lowest paiit; of the dress in front, and terminate in a group of flowerg at the side. But i whatever jn.ajf he fche fashion one month i la sure to be superseded tho nest by some fancy of a modiste who wishes to bring herself in fco notice. in bonnets and hats there is nothing new to mention. The **• Bebe" capote still holds its own, but ifc is only worn of an Gvofiing at the theatre «•>!» concert. Ifc [ resembles a half-hoed, with full ruche in front, which ia becoming to moat faces. i The?e is no doubt about these capotes | becoming popular in England. It only wants son^e lady known to be worthy qi respect, whether titled or otherwise, to wear them in public We do nofc use the term " respectable," as being of doubtful meaning and wide rendering. The newest capote is of soft materia l , and lined ; the crown cut round, excepting afc the ears. X\i has a cape, and in the. froiifc a. ruche of

grenadine *or flat .feathers, at WW 0 * curled ostrich. A damask rose orr the left side raises the ruche. It has strings, which tie under the chin. A variety of the capote is made by running a piece of thin whalebone in the centre of the crown, which raises and prevents it falling flat on the hair. Loops and long ends of ribbon are fastened at the back of the whalebone, and bows without ends are placed just at the back of the neck, between' the crown and cape. The cape is ruehed with similar trimming, whether feathers or grenadine, as that on the front of the capote.

Colored under-petticoats will continue fco be *vorn during the spring, also in the summer. White petticoats are rarely seen, excepting for evening wear. Very simple petticoats of dust-colored alpaca, with only a deep hem, are to appear. Aa the alpaca, be it whatever color it may, never holds dust, this for once is a wise fashion. Moreover, it washes weU, and having no trimming, there is not even the suggestion of an old dress about it.— ' Ladies' Treasury,' Feb. 1.