Rotation Of Crops In Vegetable Garden

Auckland Star, Volume LXXVI, Issue 92, 19 April 1945, Page 3

Rotation Of Crops In Vegetable Garden

PARTICULARLY crops in the vege- *• table garden should be so ordered, as far as possible, that plants of the same nature, such as the brassica family (turnips. ca"obage, cauliflower, etc.), do not immediately follow each other. For no matter how one manures, sooner or later the crops will become a failure. By the changing of crops from one part to another each year, the soil will not become exhausted so soon, even if no manure is given. Potatoes and cabbage are very exhausting to the soil in their different ways, and we should get a far better result if these were changed round each year, than if grown on the same plot two or three years in succession. Onions are an exception to the rule. If a piece of land suits onions they may be grown there fpr a considerable time with the necessary manures. It must not be imagined that rotation of crops will suffice without manures in some shape or form. In rotation the thing to do is io divide the whole portion of the vegetable garden into four parts, using one part for the permanent crops, such as rhubarb, asparagus, herbs and such like, and on the other'three, keeping the crops revolving in some such order as the following:—No. 1 plot: Potatoes, celery, carrots, parsnips, leeks, beet, etc. No. 2: Peas, beans, onions, shallots, garlic and summer spinach. No. 3: All the brassicas, such as cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, etc. In the following year the original No. 1 should be cropped as No. 2, and No. 2 as No. 3. In the third season corresponding changes should be made, thus constituting the three-course system.

About the end of this month is perhaps the best of all seasons for renovating and rearranging the herbaceTHE HERBACEOUS ous border. BOKDEIt Where plants

have been several years undisturbed and have outgrown their usefulness, it is wise to remove them. Lift all plants carefully, placing each class separately; theri trerieh' and manure the border two spades deep. If,-a new order and a change of soil can be given, so much the better, as such plants benefit by a change, much as rotation of crops applies to vegetables. The border being trenched and well manured, proceed by grouping. Say, six or nipre plants, according to size and habit, rattier than plant them singly. Each kind should oe grouped in the position'it is to occupy, at the same time taking into consideration its height. This is most important to secure the best effect, for if tall plants are put .near the front and shorter ones at the back, the effect is lost: nor will the plants do so well when hidden by stronger kinds. Hollyhocks, tritomas and such tall plants are well suited for the back clumps, and the recesses look well when filled in with various kinds of strong-growing lilies (whites in particular) and delphiniums, anemone, japonica, perennial phlox, gaillardias and campanulas. Carnations and such like should accompany such plants as polyanthus for the front.

A garden frame is a very valuable acquisition, but it is now difficult to get timber for frame making. Why worry GARDEN FRAME about that when FROM TURF you can make a frame that serves the purpose admirably out of ordinary turves, 3in thick, 2ft long, lft wide? These may be laid one turf, thick as a surround, the height at the back to be 3ft, at the front 33in. The width and length will be determined by the light to go upon it. Disused windows are excellent for the purpose. When laying the turves, bond them, as a bricklayer does the bricks in a wall. Why not try your hand at making a frame of this kind and, having done so, form inside if a well-drained bed of good soil 6in deep. When completed sow Shorthorn carrots, lettuce salad onions and so forth. With no more attention' than thinning, ventilating, watering and the usual routine attentions given to plants in cold frames you will get excellent mid-, winter yields. * * * * Although potting plants is a frequent task with most gardeners, there are many who do not place the drainage "crocks" WHEN POTTING correctly. These PIiANTS crocks are usually secured from fragments of broken pots. Always place one large crock with the bulging side over the drainage hole. If this large crock is placed the other way up, so that it forms a saucer, it will cheek drainage instead of aiding it. Two or three smaller crocks should be laid oh the bottom so as to prevent the larger one from shifting its position over the drainage hole. Lastly, if you have to use ordinary garden soil for your potting, you must mix seme sharp sand with it or it will cake down hard and soon turn sour.