Home Garden Problems And Remedies

Auckland Star, Volume LXXI, Issue 308, 28 December 1940, Page 6 (Supplement)

Home Garden Problems And Remedies

ACOROGLEN correspondent asks for a method of controlling "a plague" of snails. Here is one that has proved effective. Water round the plants with common alum, loz to two gallons of water. This can be used on all but the very tender seedlings and can be used on these also as long as the foliage is not touched. Alum can be obtained from any chemist. Disease in Tomatoes A.S.P. (Pi. Chevalier).—The tomato you sent has apparently pone off with a bacterial disease which enters by the roots. There have been many similar cases in this part of your district, where the soil is heavy loam and clay. The only method of control for this particular trouble Is to sterilise the soil, but as such a process is not always convenient new soil should be used. When a plant becomes affected there <s no cure. It would be advisable if you considered trenching your garden next spring to improve its humus content. Useful Hedge The hedge about which A.S.P. seeks Information is Escallonia Ingramli. and it can be cut almost at any time. A trimming now and another about April will be advantageous. It is a good bright hedge, but its chief disadvantage is that it is subject to attacks by a small grub or caterpillar. Spraying with arsenate of lead will remedy the trouble. Fireblight Suspect D.E. (Frankton Junction). —You have omitted to enclose leaves in your letter, but from your description it looks like a case of fireblight. The remedy is to cut back all affected parts behind the portlcn that has died. If the tree is badly affected the proper course Is to dig it out and burn It to prevent the affection spreading. Mildew in Lettuce M. (Owhanio).—The trouble In your lettuce is due to mildew. This is particularly bad in some varieties, and you would be well advised to try some other variety, such as "All The Year Round" or "Mignonette." If a particular variety mildews in a district it Is better to grow another sort, and stick to it when you And a suitable one. Although spraying will give a measure of control, it will not do so under all conditions, therefore spraying can hardly be said to be effective. Root Pruning H.C. (Coroglen) writes that he. has a pear tree reputed to be 70 yean old which never bears fruit, with the exception of a light'crop two years ago. In such a .case root pruning may have the desired effect. '• This Is done during the winter. The soil must be dug away to get at the tap root, which is then cut through with the axe or saw. The soil la then put back and well firmed. Plum Fruiting Cycles AMATEUR (Otahaha) writes. that he has a Purple King plum and a Christmas plum near each other, both being planted nearly three years. This year there were no flowers, with the exception of a small bunch on one of the trees. Would grafting the Christmas plum on the Purple King be any advantage, he asks. This is not necessary. If the trees are- in the same garden there should be no need:to resort to artificial pollenstion. The reason for non-flowering may be due to several causes, but -probably the trees need a teat. Meat season will tell a -afferent tale. Asters Attacked WAITIANGA (Tarsnakl) asks how to control a small grub that has been eating off aster and zinnia plants. The grub appears to eat from the roots, and the leaves, although still green, fall away. He also asks whether soapy water kills the green Insect on rose plants.—The grub is apparently a soil pest, such as the leather Jacket. The soil round the plants should be dusted with naphthalene, keeping it away from* the actual plants. The naphthalene should be either hoed or forked In very lightly. Soapy water may not kill aphis, but it will wash them off. The water should be used slightly warm, and the soap dissolved at the rate of one t ounce to a gallon of water. Weevil in Small Fruit SEEKER (Devon-Kirt) writes that after flowering well the fruit on his loganberries stopped developing and withered away. The trouble is due to the raspberry weevil. Spraying with arsenate of lead before the flowers open is the best control. At later stages the only spray that can be used is lime sulphur, 1-120 (a tablespoonful to two gallons of water. Identifications S. (Sandringbsm) sends leaves of a tree which, he states, has been growing six years, and has had neither flowers nor fruit. It is apparently an orange tree of some kind, but I am unable to state the variety. Many oranges do not fruit when young, and this one may bear in a year or two. However, there are now available in Auckland many fine types of oranges which bear within three years. Black Eye (Epsom).—The tree of which you have sent a specimen is the native tltokl. It Is non-poisonous. Hauraki (Meant Albert).—The earmlchaelta is C. fiagelliformis. The other specimen was in a bad way when received, but is probably Rhemania angulata. Raglan.—The oxalis is O. rosea and In sandy soils it is nearly as bad as the yellow-flowered O. cernua. The other weed is wart cress and is a common weed on lawns, especially near the sea. Hand weeding and raking are the only way to get rid of It. NO LIME ON IRISES LIME should never be applied to irises. If there is an outstanding lime deficiency it must be worked in the soil, rather than sprinkled on top, and must not touch the iris rhizome. Liquid manure is also poisonous to irfees. If some fertiliser is needed in the soil, it should be forked under the iris, so that the fleshy rqpts can take it up. Ashes, either wood or coal, can be used in the place of lime, to be heavily sprinkled over and wround the iris any time after the blooming period or through the autumn.