ON EGYPT'S HISTORIC SHORES

Auckland Star, Volume LXXI, Issue 237, 5 October 1940, Page 1 (Supplement)

ON EGYPT'S HISTORIC SHORES

By Basil Hooper

ONCE again the coast of northern Egypt is echoing to the tramp of armed forces. This time, however, the means of transport is motor lorries and armoured cars instead of horses and camels, while tanks and aeroplanes have taken the place of swords and bows and arrows. Mersa Matrah is now very much In the news, and has regained the importance which it must have possessed in the times of the Romans and also of the Greeks before them. The Greeks named the port at Mersa Matruh, Paraetonium, and it was here that Alexander landed and whence set out on his pilgrimage to Siwa Oasis. Centuries later, Antony and Cleopatra— those immortal lovers —came here for a while—"to be alone with their bliss," perhaps. So the place is rich in memories of bygone days. Water Supply Valuable Mersa Matruh is situated on the coast, about 250 miles to the west of Alexandria, and is of special value owing to its water supply and harbour. It is a beautiful little place in some ways, especially when one looks out over the land-locked lagoon towards the blue waters of the Mediterranean. The town supports a Greek Church, of comparatively recent date, and also a Greek cemetery. The church wai erected by the Greek sponge fishermen, who come here from the different islands every year and gather some of the finest sponges in the world. The sponge fishing is carried out right along the coast, as far away as Solium, and is a very important and lucrative industry. Many of the divers are killed by using defective helmets —as they are grossly careless in this respect—and "divers' paralysis" and sharks also claim many victims. A common method is to dive in naked, with a heavy etone to take them down. A few seconds suffices to detach two or three sponges, after which it is only necessary to release the stone and return to the surface. Until a few years ago, the whole of the fresh water had to be brought in tankers, and wonder was often ax-

pressed as to how the ancient Greeks and Romans obtained their supply. Recently, however, an important discovery was made which solved that i mystery. Underground conduits, full of fresh water, with twenty-five man- i holes giving access to them, were 1 unearthed, and these are now in con- 1 stant use. The old Roman engineers had constructed these conduits in their usual lasting manner, but doubtless with no idea as to the length of time they would be in use and who would 1 be using them 2000 years thence. About 200 miles in a south-westerly direction from Mersa Matruh lies the Oasis of Siwa. Probably no place in Egypt contains more mystery and historical interest than this unique town. < It was here, well over 2000 years ago, > far away in the wastes of the Libyan Desert, and anything from ten to twenty days' journey from the coast, ' that Jupiter Amnion dwelt. This oracle seemed to possess extraordinary powers, and kings and princes from all over the civilised world came >to consult him and ask his advice on affairs of State and many other matters as welL Among the famous men who presented themselves humbly at his shrine were Hannibal and Alexander the Great —the latter being the young conqueror of Egypt. With the coming of the Romans to Egypt, however, the influence of Amnion began to wane, and the oasis disappeared from history for nearly seventeen centuries. It was not till the year 1792 A.D. that the Oasis of Siwa was rediscovered, and by an Englishman of the name of Browne. He was actually the first European visitor since the Roman occupation about 20 AD. The difficulties of the journey from the coast across the 6andy desert, and the hatred and fanaticism of the people, prevented all but a very few later travellers from attempting the journey. The operations of the last war, however, ended the long isolation of this ancient spot, and sine* then Siwa Oasis has been definitely under i the authority of the Egyptian Govern- i ment. 1

The tremendous contract that the Tisitor to Siwa notices on arrival, beween this wonderful oasis and the arid desert he has just traversed is remarkable. He travels slowly down a steep gorge and emerging suddenly is confronted with a view of thousands of date palms, for all the world like a green sea. There are said to he about *•00,000 of these palms, producing some of the best dates in Egypt, and providing the main industry for the population, which numbers some 5000 people. The curious thing about the town is that the old and original place, consisting of mud dwellings piled up on thtrocks like small skyscrapers, some nearly 200 feet high, has been deserted, having been condemned as unsafe many years ago. Kb attempt at demolition has been made — the buildings have simply been left standing—and a new village built around. It gives a weird and uncanny feeling of a dead city. Womem Outnumbered There are some other strange things about Siwa. The men outnumber the women, and, divorce being very frequent, many of the women are in constant circulation amongst those men who can afford a wife. Their value is about 24 shillings, but even this sum is beyond the purchasing powers of most of the men who must, perforce, be lifelong bachelors. Another noticeable thing is the absence of cate and dogs, which is explained when one is told that the Siwans eat them! The all-important feature in Siwa, howeuer, consists of 200 springs. These are of different types —fresh water, salt, and sulphurous, some cold and some warm. Where the water originates is difficult to guess, but it has been flowing for countless centuries and probably will continue to do bo for all time." The water ascends from the bottom of tlie jkkils in bubbles, which have ali the appearance of strings of pear!*. From the various small channels carry the water to the different gardens and give life to what would otherwise be no different from the surrounding sandy desert.. The running dry of these springs would mean the end of Siwa. with all its romantic past. It would die and ba forgotten.