HERE'S HOW WITH VIOLETS!

Auckland Star, Volume LXX, Issue 219, 16 September 1939, Page 10 (Supplement)

HERE'S HOW WITH VIOLETS!

Garden Notes

f TO propagate the violet the 1 chief way is by means of the offsets or runners. Carefully remove these runners or offshoots, pulling in a downward direction, and plant them in a frame in the shade.

The soil should be lightened with sand, and the plants dibbed in 2in apart or for strong-growing singles al>out 4in apart, pressing the soil very firmly around eacli runner.

With care these will constitute your stock for next year. In only a few cases is it permissible to use old plants for stock. Clumps that have flowered, and especially where at all forced, have expended too much of their vitality.

Only where the plants are dwarf and stocky, where the rich deep green of the leaves and the fact that the plant will divide into young plants furnished with an abundance of roots up the stem show evidence of the powers of the parent plant being well conserved, is. it advisable to use old plants.

Xo maintain a vigorous supply from year to year care should he taken to select the strongest plants and those giving the highest (lower production as parents.

Natures method of reproduction is from seed, and it is from seedlings that the most vigour is obtained; but"we cannot eliminate variation, in order to keep the stock true to type we have to adopt other means of propagation— division, layer; if care is not taken a process of deterioration will set in from year to year, resulting in inferior stocks. It cannot be too strongly insisted that, as by a constant process of selection Man lias secured a tremendous advance in all flowers, so will the process known as "reversion to type" set in if these a ids are withdrawn.

Ihe violet is certainly no exception to this rule. It is well, therefore, to grow reserve stocks in the open in the case of singles, and the doubles under the hardiest conditions possible, when required for stock.

The foregoing refers only to clumps used for division in the spring months. Ihe better method is to depend upon cuttings taken off in March and April and looted in frames; these will be ready for putting out in September and October. After planting the cuttings, water through a line rose to settle the' soil, and delay putting on the light until the air has dried off the excess of wet; and even when the light is [diced on «i little \eiuilation is necessary, as in the absence of moving air damping off and mildew will result and the stock perish. The cuttings must on no account he allowed to wilt, and must be shaded from excess of sunshine.

Tho process of rooting is slower as the w inter approachcs and is often times not completed till the .spring. Otiring therie month* they must he kept clean and ventilation must be given carefully and gradually as the cuttings become strong enough' to stand it.

A Mother method of propagation mav lie called natural layering. |„ the spring months runners will form on plants in tlie open and also in frames. .Many of these will form roots. The strongest may he selected and pegged down in 111 <> soil, a good sprinkling of sand and leaf-

mould forming a good medium for them to root in. In a month or six weeks these can be taken up and transplanted like young strawberry plants. If dry a good watering through a rose will facilitate rooting. Cuttings may also be taken in the spiing months, August or early September, and rooted in line soil. They will require shading and frequent svringing. As soon as they are rooted they should at once be removed to frames to harden off, ready for planting into their permanent quarters. The soil, having been well dug over and weathered, 'should some time prior to planting bo raked down till a good tilth is obtained. This is essential, as young and tender plants will not readily lav hold of a rough and Jumpy soil, harly in September planting should begin with the single varieties. Ueds can bo made any width. or "ingles make them lift wide to take 10 plants 12in apart. A board 10in wide and 10ft long is used with a notch; the board can bo used either for standnig on or kneeling on, and the plants dibbed in with an ordinary dibber. This must be done firmly, so that there is contact with the soil all round. A o- o od plan is to firm the soil round the plant well with the lingers. The crown must lie kept oil a level with the surface of the soil. Two measuring sticks 14in long will be needed and the hoard drawn back that distance.

This spacing applies to all the singles. Double varieties do not cover so much ground; lOin apart is sufficient, with 12in between the rows. In the case of the weaker plants it is usual to plant two or three together. Care must be taken not to tread on the ground, especially if heavy soil, while in a wet state, and even-when a board is used, it is better to let the sun and wind dTy the surface a little before pressure is applied. If the soil is dry and the sun shining the plants will soon flag, and as soon as possible a good soaking through a ro&e must be given them. If the sun is too powerful, measures must be taken to protect the plants from its scorching rays. Some protect them by laving branches of evergreens over the beds, removing them as soon as the roots become active and the plants are assimilating nourishment from the soil equal to tile exhaustion due to evaporation. This is a critical time, and much depends on the care and management afforded now as to whether success or failure will result. The seasons in this country are variable. and whereas the ideal weather for planting violets is cloudy with a succession of showers extending over several weeks, it sometimes happens that periods of prolonged drought and exhausting sunshine are prevalent. \\ hen there is a prospect of change it is better to wait, otherwise the risk

must be taken and cover must be at hand to protect the young plants after a good soaking. During this period a good spraying overhead every evening will help to restore the plants and to keep off red spider. Once these are allowed to get the upper hand it is difficult to hold them in check; and, as in many other diseases, it is easier to prevent than to cure.

The aim of the grower must be by any and every means to assist the plants to grow. Growth means root activity, but not that alone, a& the nourishment obtained from the 6oil only forms a small percentage of the total weight of the plant, and quite as vital functions are performed by the leaves. Growth then means that all the vital processes of the plant go on unchecked. Let a check arise due to cold' winds, too little moisture or too much evaporation, and the plant at once is far more liable to attacks by insect peste.

It goes without saying that weeds of every kind must be kept down. Hoeing is of the greatest value, and when the surface of the soil is fairly dry the hoe must be used to stir up the surface between the plants, by which means the soil is aerated, the temperature raised and small weeds checked. This must be continued every few weeks throughout the growing season. The finer the soil is broken up by hoeing the more moisture is conserved for the use of the plant, as by the law of capillary attraction large broken surfaces part readily with their water content, whereas fine soil retains it.

As the season advances the plants, especially if the land be poor, may require assistance in the shape of fertilisers. It is better to give small quantities little and often, say every three weeks or so. Bone meal is a safe thing to use. Give a slight sprinkling round each plant and hoe or rake lightly in. The safest and easiest plan for the amateur and small grower is to depend 011 liquid manure. Two pailfule of fowl manure with half the quantity of soot tied in a fine texture bag will suflice for a 3G-gallon cask, and this should be given every fortnight, strength at about the colour of weak tea. Liquid manure should not be given when the soil is in a dry state, but preferably after a good rain or previous watering.

Chemical manures should not be given when the soil is too dry. Soot is of great value for violets. When the roots are active a light dressing between the plants has a three-fold effect; it supplies ammonia to the roots, it tends to keep down red spider and keeps away snails and slugs, which, especially in a wet season, are destructive.

Xotlring is to be gained and much lost by applying artificial fertilisers too early. The plants must be growing freely, a proof that root action is good and assimilation possible. middle of December is early enough to start, though organic liquid manure may he given earlier. Ivor should too much be given; indeed, a really good soil will grow them successfully without, and overfed plants with gross leaves are as bad as underfed ones and quite as subject to disease.

From now on during the growing season, daily inspection is needed to ascertain the requirements of the crop, and the hoe must be kept constantly going; for the. lighter soils the Dutch hoe Is useful.