A Rose Hedge Can Be Really Lovely

Auckland Star, Volume LXX, Issue 165, 15 July 1939, Page 16 (Supplement)

A Rose Hedge Can Be Really Lovely

AROSE hedge is a beautiful object in the garden. It may take the form of an elaborate arrangement or merely a planting of the sweet briar by the entrance gate, or in some part of the grounds where the scent of the leaves can be d e *ected in the warm summer evenings. A hedge <>f sweet briar brings sweet remembrances of the gardens of old, where its fragrance mingled with that of Lhe famous cabbage and other soeitlled common roses. Many years ago an article was written l>y A. K, Williams, after whom the ic».e is named, who in the "Hose-grower's ('iiiii|iiiTiinn" said: "Nothing can be more iM'iiiit ifnl than a hedge of roses in full Idooiii. Where nlich <i sight is once seen il will create a longing to possess such ii thing of ben lity in the hearts of all who have tlie room and time to devote, to its production. Why should nut neighbours tnke down the fences dividing their lots «ind combine to produce in their stead beautiful hedges of roses?" Mr. Williams goes on to deseril>e a I it'll •!(« ot' hybrid |k,r jo 111 a t roses upon which, three yearn after planting, nearly tiOOO bloom* and buds were counted at one. time in June. Years ago an American lady planted at Whitwell, in the Isle of Wight, a hedge of roses in the public thoroughfaie, and many enthusiastic lovers of Ihe rose might do likewise in the town or village in which they reside. In small gardens it always seeme foolish to |>lo iit such an unprofitable plant as privet when we may have rose. Of course to have a healthy hedge of roues one must prepare the soil well. Something more is necessary than simply digging it .a spade deep. Jt must be trenched two feet to three feet deep, breaking up the lower spit with a fork and mixing with it plenty of good manure and some basic slaa. If the soil is heavy give artificial drainage, especially material that has, paused through a fire is distinctly useful to add to tins lower soil in addition to the material mentioned. Into the upper portion of the soil some half-inch bones should be incorporated, and the manure, if possible, should be more decomposed as it comes nearer the roots of the rose*. There are two groups of hedges that may be mentioned, but the preparation of the soil would be the same. In the first group the hedges could be placed where they are to be the dividing lines, to encircle beds and to act as a background to the border*. These mutt be of moderate vigour only. The most suitable varieties for this purpose are the China or Monthly roses, Austrian briars and the Japanese or Rugosa roues, whilst for low hedges the Polyantha type is very welcome. The second group is designed to act as screens either to the rose garden or to any other part of the establishment.

Support under these circumstances is needful. Stout poles or galvanised iron uprights with feet should be located from six feet to eight feet apart, if in a windy district, and further apart if sheltered; they should rise about eeven feet out of the ground. To these supports four rows of strong galvanised jointed wire should be attached. In the first-named group there should be a double row of plants, each plant two feet and a half apart, but in the latter group one row would sutlice, each plant to be four fe«t to six feet apart. The plant* should not he pruned the first year, but as they grow tie out the growths horizontally and in a palmate form. In two or three years all the space will be tilled out and will produce a mass; of rlowere. To keep the base of all hedges well furnished with growths, cut down or or two of the oldest annually, or peg them to the ground, thus promoting a eupply of shoots from the base. Of course, as time goes on the growths will need tying in, and it may be necessary to dip the hedges to keep their growths from unduly overhanging the walls. These hedges must not be neglected in the mutter of feeding. Annual dressings of manure are needed, and they will repay lilxwal waterings with liquid nutiimc during the growing season, while in the depth of winter this stimulant may be poured on, to the great advantage of the roots, and also to prevent this valuable material being wasted. Rose hedges are much injured by caterpillars, for the reason that one does not prune away the growths upon which the moth deposits its eggs. It is therefore advisable, seein<; that hand-picking is out of the question, to spray the hedges in August or September with arsenate of lead powder, lost to one gallon of water. Apply with a fine sprayer. It is most useful for destroying t lie winter moth, Tortrix moth, grubs, etc. <s>