A Trip To The Old Dart

Auckland Star, Volume LXX, Issue 94, 22 April 1939, Page 2 (Supplement)

A Trip To The Old Dart

ByCapt. McKenzie Cliffe

Cuffers Spun In The Dog Watch

(Part II.)

te rth A k g d a re r--e w y h e e d o -, •;*; • ~ ■ . the' main lower top* ' r suil!"' tfj> aloft the,crowd sprang wjtli a will and'this difficult .task was purformed. J' A tliirk pnll of cloud covered the sky; ,' it seemed us if heaven and earth were united l.y it. The sea rose fast, and . soon there was running not the moiin- , tainoiu seas of Cape Horn, l>lll. a huge, j uplifting sea resembling a boiling cauldron. The fea had no true run for j. the wind was backing and filling about four points and this caused a high, ■ dangerous wave motion. It was a weird sight—the wind blowing like Hades o\er short high seas that „ eeenied to come out of the depthe, ar.ii spew themselves with titanic force into :l the air or on to the ship's decka. * We were running hard, the vessel's decks filled rail to rail —which toieant '• she was carrying another 1000 tons of 5 water on bur decks. .It was a stupenl ~ dous load and the brave ship felt it, but was staggering along with the deter* initiation to do her best, o The glase was still falling and the e hurricane was roaring like the Bulls of Baahnu around and on top of us. Oil- . bags were put over the bows, but they were not of much use. The ship staggered along in a mad maelstrom of wind " and eea. ' ' o Sail Torn Away it Tearing hurricane and raging water e raked the noble ship aloft ami alow, fore

THE gale lightened and a»va; she went. In a few days sh was clear of the Horn and its tei rible attendant daggers, \yitl grateful hearts the crew repairei ail damage and started the worl that is always done on the long trip home. # Sails were repairec and the good ship was put on t. course to clear St. Roque. SrtHor like, once their troubles wen j>n?t tliey forgot about them or appar ently forgot, hut in every heart then whs deep gratitude for their narrow escape. Up the' Smith American coast they spoke to. two ships, both of which seemed as if they needed assistance. The first one had lost both fore and main de gal masts, but she was making good time—she was doing eight knots under six topsails and courses. She gave no information when spoken and refused assistance, so our ship passed on after wishing her good luck. The next cripple was in a worse plight, having lost her f oretopmaet nnd jibboom, As our ship drew close it was seen that part of her fo'c'sle head was badly damaged. She also refused assistance, but volunteered the information that she had a collision with an iceberg and had had a wonderful escape, that two of her crewhad been killed and that she would put into either Montevideo or Rio de Janeiro for repnirs. The lame duck then sailed on and eventually made port. Hearts Of Iron These were ordinary events of the old sailing ship days and were among the tilings that might have been expected of the brave hearts that manned those ships. Hearts of oak? That is not sufficient; they were iron men rilled with the Godgiven courage Unit has often pulled old England out of many a tight coiner. Now that they are gone they are appreciated, but it seems wrong that they had to die before their good qualities were discerned. Up the coast our noble ship flew, reeling off the knots. Off the River Plate she had a severe dusting. She had been running with a moderate sou'-west wind .'Mid the glass , had shown /signs of falling. The mate culled the captain, who ordered the royals, de gale and all light sails to be taken. in. By midnight the

wind had dropped, the glass; was falling elowly and the appearance of the weather was threatening. The captain took off tipper topsails and courses. Just before daybreak the wind dropped to a flat calm, with, however, a pumpingglase. It was uncanny. - Day broke on a wonderful, weird-look-ing sky. High in the he'aveni could be Been the dawn, which from dirty silver turned to bright red, then to a copJ>ery colour. Everyone was anxious and the captain was still on deck.. The nun rose in.a dull, coppery getting, looking lilie some huge, angry sea god emerging from his bath of molten copper. It was a proper hurricane sky and as goon as the captain saw it he roared: "Call ell linns, Mittter, and marl all the sails down on the yard)*!" Out tliß crowd cm me aiwl this was Boon done. Again came an order: "Take everything off her but main lower topBail, fore topmast staysail and mi/.zeii staysail and marl them down!" The crowd had hardly come down from W a °, n a Bh,i " w h'»tling sound was the .n ii* , dee l' en «l~and with a roar theMuali (or "pampero") etruck. K*J oavea tllp cai,tain - and

■and lift, in a mad effort to cripple and destroy her, but on elie flew. An imusu- * ally furious squall cnrried away tlie x main lower topsail shoots. Jn an instant J the whole of the sail was torn from the '' yard. This slowed her down somewhat. ;l Jifow a new , danger threatened her. t Over the stern a huge crest raised its head, threatening to engulf her, but the first one pawed by safely. » The captain could gee that this danger * wee ever-present, and realised' that, * much agaiuet hie will, he would be i forced to heave Her" to. She had been running over'ipur.hours and though the ship had stood up to it bravely, it was certain she could not do so indefinitely without serioiieldHiiiage. So everything , was got ready to- heave her to. Under tremendous difficulties the E yards were braced lip hard and every [trace made fast and hitched. Every a oilbag was refilled and put over the side along what would be the weather side. Two buckets, half-lilled with oil, were got ready to pour over ae the ship " was brought up to the ,, wind. A heavy h. '■weatlier-dodger" was spread in the s« niizzpii rigging mid lashed, then all hands t< were called aft on to the poop \nd the fli ship wii* brought up to the wind. It At a given signal the oil was thrown m over and the helm eaeed. The ship in started to head ■ up to the'sea, which h( wiie now running a little mine true. A be report like a flap of thunder came from w for'ard mid (he elitp rushed up into thp t« wind, it was tlic furetounmst etaysail a

that Ji'iul been. Mown away. This was , followed l>y' another report; the niaintopniasit staysail had gone the same way. Up to the wind, and spa raced the ship, heeling over now until her lee rail was under water. Slie was under only mizzeii staysail and inizzen 'weatherdoth. ; - - • Like A Bolt Of Fury From tlie mad chaos <>f winds roared a squall, titanic in it* strength ami liendisli iit its intensity, striking the gallant ship like a bolt of fury, "Cut the staysail sheet!" roared the captain, but his voice could not be in the mad medley of sound. Seizing a knife from a sailor, he slid down to leeward and, at the risk of his own life, out the inizzen staysail sheet. The sail blew away with a roar. This cased the strain and the ship slowly righted herself to a less dangerous angle. .She was now liove-to with only a weathei'floth spread in, the inizzen rigging and over her weather side. She breasted the eeas like a duck and must have looked a noble eighty as *lie did so. All day the battle went on until the "Pampero ,, blew itself out, leaving a heavy si n<l dangeitius sea running. Quickly new canvas was bent and set. Soon thi! ship was under lower topsails and all lower staysail*.

Away she went, but as the jrlnss was -till low the prudent captain did not think it wise to set "the upper topsails till it had become a little more settled. This did not happen till two nights later iind as eight bells (midnight) was struck the order came. "Hoist the main upper topsail up!" With a yell the crowd gathered round. "Sing her up!" cried the mate, and they started to the tune of "The Old Farmer": — I'll tWI you the story of old Uncle Pete, Welsh helgli inul a lii'ijfh hi ho. His mammy wan fat and her clothes wouldn't meet, - A long time ago. Up the must the yard was going. Still hey sang: — He lind moss on liis Hend and hair on his teeth. To l>e weijrh )i<'ij;li with a lioiuli hi ho. ind In- wore ffri'nt boots that were chockfull of foer, A lung time hico. Now the yard was well up and then: "Beliiy all of that! Hang on beforeiand, (some of yon!" So the main topail was eet. At eight bells the other op?aii* were |iut on to her and that iue crowd of men sang them all up. t was beautiful to hear the rough, nelodiotiji voices roaring out their songs n a setting that, alas, will never again >e seen in thie world. Perhaps it is ■etter eo; it was a hard life, but oh, it .as a grand one! People who have not asted and felt the jts of a voyage in sailing ship .My eailed know

nothing of the romance of the seas — for romance at sea lived and died with the sailing ship. Our ship had suffered little real damiige in the Pampero, but such as it was it had to be repaired. She was now making her way in the "variables," that wind belt situated in latitude thirty south. Everything was overhauled. Aα she drew near the Trade wind iw*lt, a lighter suit of sail< would lie bent. These were usually older and lighter sails, and would he used right through both southeast Trades, through the doldrums and up to the extreme limit of the northeast Trades, .vhen the heavy weather sails would be again be bent, to cope with the heavier weatlier that is usual in the variables and the roaring forties. Now the order was given to clean ship and all hands knew that they were on the long leg home. Next day the southeast Trades were picked .up. Well to the southward they were good and fresh. "Weather main -brace" was the order. As the men squared the yards and the sails filled to the favouring breeze, their hearts were light and they sang a'e they wprked. They were homeward bound to London Town, and it* eeemed as i # f the girls had hold of the tow-rope. In the dog watches the men congregated on the main hatch and eang songs and shanties and spun differs. Thev were happy, and «he was a good ship. Not that there were no disagreements, but even in the fights there Mae no after ill-feeling. On the lovely ship went, __ and as she went north the Trades increased. She wns reeling off 10, 11 and sometimes 12 knots. The nights were glorious, as they nearly always are in the Trades. The stars nnd the planets shone like incandescent lights in the dome nbove, and gave one a feeling of genial intimacy witli the loving Father that guides ail of these thing**, and inspired in the hearts of men a love of the great Creator. Sengs of home were sung sometimes in company, and sometimes as solos. One night old Tom sang "The Miner's Dream of Home." which was then only a new sonor in. the London musie-hallc As his old voice sang the crowd joined in the chorus: — 'Tic ton wenry years since I left England's shores Til n far (liKtnnl country to ronm. I longed to return to the Inn<l of my hirih. To my friends nnd the old folks at home. I.nst night as I slumbered I had a strange d renin That brought me my distant home near. I dreamt of Old England, the lnnd of my birth. To the hearts of her sons ever dear. Thoughts Of Home The crowd joined in the chorus heartily, and many a tear ran down furrowed and bronzed cheeks as the singers thought of what home meant to them:—I saw tlio old homestead, the faces I lovpd, I saw England's valleys and dells. > T listened with joy as 1 did when a boy To the sound of tho old village bells. Tlie log was burning brightly, 'Twas n night to banish all sin. For the bells were ringing the Old Tear out And the Npw Year in ! Picture the scene, if you cnn. A noble vessel is tearing along before a strong Trade wind throusrh tropic seas under a starry dome. On her hatches are githered most of r her crew—men who have, left their homeland on one of the longest, voyages that can be made. Some are thinking, no doubt, of the homes they have left and are wondering what mothers, fathers, children. wives, brothers and sisters are all doing at that particular moment. They are wondering if their loved ones are ill, or whether, perhaps, sonic have been called to their lust rest. Will there be a vacant chair when they arrive? Tn-tlie soft light of a glorious evening they sit and think; perhaps a tear trickles down some rough cheek when the stress of emotion becomes too great. Sentimental —yes, fill loving hearts are sentimental, and sailors have always a touch of it in them. Xow eight bells is striking, and from for'ard conies the cry of the lookout: "Lights are burning bright and all's well." The watch would muster eft and lianas would he culled, and the second officer would report: "Watch i* aft, sir." The first mate would re-

spond: "Relieve the wheel and lookout." The relieved watch would turn ill and all would be quiet. Xothing Mould be heard but the sough of the sea as the ship passed through it, the splash of water as the spray flew i;board, the creak of yards and blocks, nnd the mimic that the wind makes up aloft in the rigging. 'But no—there could also be heard the beautiful voices of the night and the spirit of the ship, bringing peace and happiness to each sailor's heart. Only jour true sailorman can understand these voices, for only to him will they speak. Away the ship flies, and now the south-east Trades are past; she is rolling and pitching in the calm seas and the sweltering heat of tne Doldrums. The eun shines fiercely and it is intensely hot. A tropical downpour of rain may suddenly descend onjthe ship, bringing with it, perhaps, a short but dangerous squall. It is "Stand-by" all the time, for in as many minutes the wind may come from a dozen points of the compass. Round the yards go to the accompaniment of the curves of the sailors who are pulling and hauling. In these latitudes every puff of wind must be taken advantage of, for there is no steady wind here, only "eat\--paws" and an occasional fierce squall. Wet through, unable to sleep in the fo'c's'le because of the sweltering heat, all sailors hate the Doldrums. Holy-Stoning Some day or night, maybe, after perhaps 10 or 12 days in the Doldrums, a breeze will spring up from the eaetward, quickly veering to the east-north-east and then to north-east. Xow she is braced sharp up on the starboard tack, and away ehe goes. Most of the work aloft is done. Cleaning, scraping, hoiy-stoiiing and oiling the decks are the order of the day. The ship is braced hard on tl'iewind. Kvcry day it is getting cooler. In the fo'c's'le the men gather in the dog watches to sing shanties and other songs. Northward, ever northward, she goes, and as she tears along fhe men's hearts grow lighter, for they are getting nearer to old. Kngland and sll it in cane—the least of which is not payday! Soon our ship was through the Trades and th« Variables, and—wonder of wonders —she got a fair wind which herd on until she was in the chops of the channel. Then one night it died away and she rolled round all night, becalmed. "Thi* is no good," said old Tom. "I am afraid it will come out ahead of us." Thin prophecy, nine, was a true one, for next morning "Old Jamaica" jumped out of his molten bath as clear as a bell and the wind ca:ne from the eastward, fulfilling the old salt's weatherwise warning that When the nun rises clear as a bell, Easterly weatlier as sure as hell. A Wonderful Sight Again the yards were hard on to the backstays and tack for tack she made, making little progress. Four days this continued. Quite a few shi|>e had collected and were beating under shortened canvas. Perhaps there were 50 or 60 barques and ships of all rigs. One early morning the wind died away and out from the south-west came a wind. All those lovely ships spread their canvas and off they went. Daylijrht showed a wonderful eight. Sailing ships of all sizes, canvas set, raced into the English Channel. Sailors and officers :iliko forgot their work to gaze spellbound on the sight—a sight never to be seen again. Men's hearU were filled with the beauty of it all, nnd tears of emotion trickled down many a tanned cheek. Sailors—yes, they were sailors! They were not mere toilers for pelf, but brethren of a cult that admits to its heart and its secrets only the initiated, and this initiation takes years to accomplish and is come by only through the gates of hard service, weary days, and nights of danger, perhaps of wreck and disaster. There were no nnmby-pamby sailors in those days; every man was a he-man, and in his soul ha loved his twin nii*tre~se«—the beautiful ship and the fickle sea.

The Invercargill, one of the immortal "Duncan sisters," named after their builder, Robert Duncan, of Greenock. Named Dunedin, Canterbury;. Invercargill, Auckland, Nelson and Wellington, these famous iron passenger ships were launched in that order in 1874 and all made many passages of under eigltty days. 7he same year two more of these wonderful New Zealand emigrant clippers were built by another Creenock yard. They were the Oamaru and Timaru. That night there was a sing-song on the main, hatfK, and after they had worn out "Sally Brown," "Reuben Ranzo," "Shenandoah," and "A Yankee Ship Came Down the River, ,; Old Tom stood up and said. "I'll sing you a song of the old packet ships that used to trade across to the westward. It's called 'The Packet Rat of the Western Ocean," , and describes the follows who used to man those packets and who would come aboard with a pocket handkerchief and ii pipe for an <mtlit and go ashore with perhaps two bags full of clothes." . Hβ started to sing and the .crew joined ill the well-known chorus. After this they sanjr one verse from "Rolling Home." and as the beautiful words of the old eea-song rolled out, men's heart* were filled again with thoughts of home and beauty: Eastward, eastward, ever eastward To the rising of the dawn ; Homeward, homeward, ever homeward io the place where I was born. Rollins home, rolling li.-*iip, Rolling home across the son Rolling home to metric Knglnnd. Rolling home, dear love, to thee! Soon we'll see thp. shores of England In the duwnln? of the light. .And we'll seo our friend* nnd loved ones And we'll greet them with delight. Rolling home, rolling hr«ne, Rolling home ncross the sea. Rolling home to niorrie Kngland, Rolling home, deur love, to thee! "Pub" Farewell Eight bells struck and the watch was relieved. Hearts were light indeed when next morning a tugboat came alongside and gave ihem the towrope. ]n due time the ship was docked and berthed, and it whs time for the crowd to leave her. Over to the "pub" at the corner they nil trooped, and over a last pot of beer they all joined hands and sang: Leave her, boys, leave her, Lenve her, boys, leave her, She's n Hue old ship. Hut we must got nlniig, * 'Tig time for us to lenve her! And there we leave both ship and crew, wondering only when and where they will next meet." Sn \ will sny, in the old sailor's vernacular: ''Good-bye. I'll sec you in Liverpool.''