The Greeks Had a Word for It!

Auckland Star, Volume LXX, Issue 29, 4 February 1939, Page 14 (Supplement)

The Greeks Had a Word for It!

"j Garden Notes

PROBABLY the most widely, known of the spring flowering bulbs, the narcissi have beer known to gardeners for over 200 C years. In ancient Greece anc Rome the poets sang its praises before the era of Christianity, anc it was known and used in ceremonies in Egypt quite a century before the birth of Christ. The narcissus family lias "been an object of interest to English botanists since the sixteenth century, and new and beautiful forms have been evolved since that time uutil the lovely floweis, undreamt of even GO or 70 years ago, are now common in the garden. It is impossible to describe the work done towards improving this flower. Despite the many attractive features of newer introductions in daffodils, the gardener is advised to make his selection from some of the older and better known sorts, which can be purchased at a low price, are easily grown and will K fill all requirements for a bright gardeli display in the spring, while furnishing cut flowers for table use. There has always been some little confusion in the mind of the amateur as to the correct classification of the tazetta or clfister or bunch flowered varieties. Leaving any botanical consideration out of the question, this early flowering class has been listed under the heading "Jonquil." Daffodils are quite hardy and can be grown out in the open garden. They require a well-drained soil and will not thrive on heavy, wet ground. A slightly ' heavy, rich loam is the ideal soil, although daffodils will do well in any fairly rich .garden soil. To achieve the best results, trench the ground down about ISin, and di>*- ? ug this operation thoroughly incorporate into the soil a mixture of well-decayed cow-or stable manure, unlecched wood ashes and leaf mould. Xever use fresh, natural manure, as this is fatal to success. The wood ashes are to supply the ground with potash, which is necessary to daffodils. Sulphate of potash'may be used in place of the wood ashes, at the rate of |oz to the square yard. , It is essential that whatever fertiliser is utilised !s" thoroughly incorporated in the soil. If possible, prepare the ground for daftodils some months before plant- „ ing the bulbs, any. time from October onwards. This will economise in space, as where it is desired to plant out summer and autumn blooming annuals, the daffodils can be planted amongst them. The annuals win be pulled out in the early winter, after they have finished flowering, and as the daffodils will be easily distinguishable by this time, there will be no danger of injuring: the bulbs. .

n Do not dig the annuals, but pull the ** plants : out intact. Narcissus bulbs, -s both daffodils and jonquils, are suscepd tiblc to the attacks of mites and soil »„ insects, and it is necessary therefore to give the ground a good cleansing with some reliable soil fumigant about a fortnight before planting. 11 Daffodil bulbs can be planted during s February, March and April, and even Y May; the best time is early in February. Late planting is not recommended and is one of the principal causes of 5 » disappointment. The bulb is the store- ), room of the reserve food whilst it is in the dry state. .After being out of the . ground for a certain time a shoot or leaves will appear from the top. This '• means that the reserve food supplies f have been drawn on, and if not replen--2 islied the bulb will become weaker-and weaker, and ultimately die. The importance of early planting will "thereL ' fore be realised so that the bull) is" in t the ground in good time to develop 1 roots before making any top growth. The easiest method of planting is to . make a hole with a dibbler and to drop t the bulb in. Be sure to see that the bulb is placed on the bottom of the hole 1 and not held suspended by the walls. i It is essential that the base of the bulb , is in proper contact with the soil. Plant . the bulbs 2in, Sin or 4in deep, according their size, and the texture of the soil. The best effect is obtained from clusters of five or six bulbs of the ! same variety planted i»in apart. Daf- . fodils also make a fine show planted

ISo Did The Egyptians —2000 Years Ago

in long, narrow beds, oil borders and. between roses and deciduous shrubs. Take care to plant bulbs of tile, same variety at a uniform depth to facilitate the same height and time of flowering. Should the weather be dry at time of planting, see that watering is carried out regularly so as to encourage - root growth. This is most important, as in nature the bulbs are only without working roots for a short period. Keep the ground hoed occasionally to conserve the soil moisture, and to destroy weeds, but be careful to cultivate shallow so as not to damage the surface roots. No further treatment will be required until the plants are about to flower unless watering is necessary, and bulbs should never be allowed to become too dry. Tile flowering period varies according to the different classes, but by a judicious selection of varieties daffodils may be had in bloom from August to October. For the convenience of the gardener, the various sorts have been divided into three sections:r—Karly (lowering and late flowering. If required for house decoration, or for bouquets, cut the flowers just before they are fully open. Never allow tiic blooms to die on the plants, but cut just as they are drooping. If the flowers are allowed to die on the plants and form seed, the bulbs are exhausted and are useless for planting out another season. An occasional application, of liquid cow manure and soot will materially benefit the plants whilst * in bloom.

When the leaves turn yellow aiul begin to lie flat on the ground, the bulbs are ready for lifting. The earlier flowering sorts will he ready for taking up ahout October, the latter ones about December. Daffodils may be left in the ground for two or three years without lifting, and an advantage of this is that there will be a greater increase of bulbs and that these new bulbs will be healthier and stronger. In the garden, however, it will generally be more convenient to take the bulbs up each season. Lift the bulbs and spread out tliinly in a cool airy place to dry. About a week later shake the earth off the bulbs and lay them out flat in trays or in shallow boxes. Never pack daffodil bulbs in heaps on top of each other, as they are liable to heat and rot, and disease is likely to set in. If the weather is wet at time of lifting, inspect the bulbs every two or three days and turn to expedite drying; should this not progress quickly spread thinly. When quite (h'V in appearance, test bulbs by seeing if the withered-up roots come away easily without tearing out a sort of cushion from the base of the bulb. The trays, or storage boxes, may be covered with a layer of dry silver sand. Some of the narcissi, such as' the Poeticus, have really no period of rest, and in most of the others it is very brief, so that earl}' lifting is essential. If the bulbs are taken up when the new roots have started growing, unless immediately replanted, these young growths will die off, thus materially weakening the plant, so that late lifting must always be avoided. In this respect, it is better to err on the early rather than on the late side.. As the green loaves are the food manufactories for the plant, they must be allowed to shrivel thoroughly before being cut off, and even then only trim within 2in or 3in of the crown. Just prior to replanting, clean up the bulbs bv pulling off the old roots and cutting off the remains of the old. tops.