By-- A Paris Expert

Auckland Star, Volume LXIX, Issue 124, 28 May 1938, Page 4 (Supplement)

By--A Paris Expert

Amid a welter of divergent ideas, it is not easy to arrive at definite conclusions —and if you- hope reader, for unanimity, the hope must be dispelled here and now. Directoire and Empire signs there may be. but as they point to so many totally different directions, it is difficult to form any conclusion. For instance, one wellknown clothes designer zips you from hem to collar into finger-tip jackets and narrow cylinder coats; another, equally well-known, pours you into tube-like tunics or supple-hip length beltless sweater* draped over the bust. Yet another swathes you mummy-like for evening, and fits you for to-day, into tube-like jackets under full capes. A Little Good Advice The evening styles, being so varied, are a regular kindness campaign to the assorted shapes that women come in. You are not obliged to wear any dress that doesn't flow over your bad points and show up your best ones. Unless you're tall and slim, don't wear the slinky, Directoire drees; unless ,you are young and slender, don't wear the skin-tight bodice with a hundred yards of skirt. If you need help at the back, don't wear any of the new gowns that have a rush of fullness to the front, and clinging backlines. Women who are of the lean order would do well to wear the high bodice effect in front, and if their backs are beautiful they -can stick to the backless corsage. Women who are always cold in low-cut frocks may wear sleeves and built-up necklines. The controversy over the belted versus beltless dresses lias resolved itelf into tire acceptance of the beltless line in the majority of the new evening models, but in other directions dressmakers are playing for with belts. .Therefore the vexed question of belts of no belts becomes a question of line. When belts are shown they are a very important part of 'the dress, and not a mere accessory. And listen! Skirts for daytime have become shorter, but they have become shorter than even last serfson. Some are knee-length, and others just a few inches below. The short under-skirt with transparent over-dress, is accepted in most quarters —perhaps as a self-compro-mise between the short and the long evening dress. Wearing of Flowers There's an art in the wearing of flowers gracefully, so try to acquire it. Let it be remembered first of all that there is no rule which says that the corsage bouquet always must be worn on the shoulder. On some frocks it is much more attractive when pinned just at the point of the V neckline. A highneck dress nrght find it becoming if a little cluster of flowers was placed high under the chin, or arranged in a little crescent just below the round neckline of the drees. And another style of dress is given additional charm with the flowers worn at the waistline. The colour of the flowers always should harmonise with that of the dress, i And the type of flowers always should be suitable to the style of the frock. For a tailored costume, select a small tailored looking bouquet, such as a tight little bunch of daisies or chrysanthemums, or even a single aster, a small cluster of violets, cornflowers or carnations. Gardenias, roses, sweetpeas, and some of the more fragile, less sturdy posies are more flattering t 0 afternoon dresses. Knitted Wedding Gowns Hand-knitted wedding dresses are the most sensational innovation for the season I have seen in the collections up to date. One gown in linen thread and silk was made with a thick wavv design, and long sleeves, and a wide skirt which, however, fitted over the hips. The veil, which stood stiffly out from the head, was very wide-meshed silk drawn lace, with a straw coronet. Silk straw is the newest material for many other hand-knitted and crocheted clothes. Several dresses seen are handwoven, and tweed and checked silks are so closely imitated in knitting that thev are indistinguishable from the real thing. Shakespearean doublets and short cloaks, ruffled sleeves and high collars appear in hand-knitted wear. Coats have chains strung from shoulder to shoulder, often with a large medallion suspended from the centre. And the tops of hand-knitted day dresses are sometimes hung with tinted tassels. Accessories Accessories for all kinds of fashion smartness are "in," whether you control the income of a Croesus, or whether you are limping along with a limited budget. Surprisingly good results are being obtained every day, and these obliging and increasingly important extras are the reason. With a smart belt and a pair of long doeskin gloves, or with a hat-and-gloVe combine, or even with such a tit-bit as the newest of non-wiltable nosegays a plain well-cut dress achieves a chic seldom seen before the era cf good accessories. Paragraphs could be written about hosiery and gloves. These last are as (S»y as ever, but with much of last year's exuberance under good control. The colours are romantic, tones of cerise, citron, green, copper, yellow and grey. L'sually the gloves match the hat, or "a bit of colour that has been featured on the hat.