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THE WEEK'S WORK

THE FLOWER GARDEN

Complete sowing- and planting of bedding plants. Dahlia planting can be pushed on. Petunias and Verbenas, when used for bedding, should bo pinned to the soil with wire pins. Any pruning or shaping necessary to Asaleas should be done now. Remove seed pods of Rhododendrons and Asaleas. Boronias should be cut back after flowering. If scale or thrips appear on Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Boronias or Daphne give a spraying with white oiL Cut away spent blooms on Sweet Peas. A little super, plentiful supplies of water and a mulching will keep the plants going. Stake and tie the flower stems of Border Carnations. Cuttings of perpetual flowering Carnations can be planted. Chrysanthemum planting can be done. Spray Roses at first sign of aphis or mildew.

THE GREENHOUSE

Sow Schisanthus for flowering in pots. Sow Cyclamen seed as soon as ripe. Chrysanthemums growing in pots should receive the final potting. Begonia cuttings, especially the winter flowering type, can be inserted. Sow Primula Sinensis for autumn flowering. Sow Coleus; cuttings of these root freely now and soon, make nice plants. Shade according to plants' requirements; it saves excessive watering.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

Hoe between, spray end earth up Potatoes. Any further lowing* of Parsnips should be done at once. Sow the main crop of Carrots. If aphis is to be expected, treat the soil with naphthalene before sowing the seed. A sowing; of Parsley can be made. This makes quite a neat edging plant for the vegetable plot. Stake Runner Beans as soon as the plants begin to climb; also stop the main vine when about a foot high. Herbs for drying purposes should be collected and dried just as the first flowers open. A sowing of Tomatoes now in warm districts will give an autumn crop. Sow Water, Pie and Rock Melons. A late sowing of Bush Vegetable Marrows will give a late crop. Plant out Kumaras; work the soil well before planting. Cape Gooseberries, Peppers, Egg Plants, Chokos and Tomatoes can be planted.

THE FRUIT GARDEN

R.W.H. (Grey Lynn) sends a specimen from a liurbank plum. It is a disease known as bladder plum which affects fruits, flowers and shoots, but is most noticeable on the fruits. About three weeks after blossoming, these become greatly enlarged, nnd after a time fall to the ground. The leaves become infected shortly after they unfold from the bud, when they appear blistered and yellow, or even red, resembling leaves of peaches infected with leaf curl. They, too, after a time, change to brown and fall to the ground. Shoots are invariably attacked when they appear lighter in colour and much swollen. They frequently become stunted. The leaf-buds remain close together, and give a rosetted appearance to the branch, or they may be much twisted and killed for part of their length. Following the death of these laterals, small and weakly secondary laterals grow out immediately below the dead areas; these, in turn, become infected and produce a further crop of diseased fruit the following season. Blossoms are sometimes killed outright shortly after they emerge from the bud, but this is an uncommon manifestation, and doubtless occurs only when climatic conditions are favourable to the active development of the casual organism.

The following spray application Is recommended: When the buds begin to swell, but before they open, 5-4-50 Bordeaux, or 1-15 lime sulphur. This application should he supplemented by the cutting out of infected shoots. This could be done at any time during the growing season, when the disease would be conspicuous and consequently readily located. Paint over all wounded surfaces as soon as made with coal tar, using a stiff brush. If spraying now, should be done with lime sulphur 1100.

J.R.J. (Takapuna) asks: (1) The cause of a lemon tree 4ft high, planted two months ago going as enclosed leaves, also remedy? (2) The cause of native trees, such as hedge plants, going dark fcrotrit, and the (turc, if anyf (3) How can I dislodge an ants' nest from the root of a rhododendron without harming the shrubst

(1) The tree was large when transplanted, and it has not made enough roots yet to keep the foliage supplied. It will be all right in a short time when it becomes more firmly established. (2) Probably due to a scale insect. Spraying with lime sulphur solution 1-120 will probably control It. (3) Dust pure napthalene (not "horticultural napthalene") on the soil where the ants congregate, and then cover with a mulching of fine soil or sand.

VETERAN (\9rthcote) writes: Persimmon trees are in full foliage and look healthy. Could you advise me whether to sprayt If your persimmons are clean there may be no need to spray, but as a Jirecaution I should advise you to spray with lime sulphur solution (one part to 120 parts water). You can procure lime sulphur solution at any store.

Thin out heavy crops of fruit. It relieves the trees and often ensures a crop next year. Spray with colloidal or wetable sulphur to control brown rot. Spray Apples and Pears with arsenate of lead to control codlin moth. Spray Plums with arsenate to control leech. Arsenate of lead in the correct proportions can be added to colloidal sulphur to make a combined spray.

E.O. (Ponsonhy) write*'. J enclose a leaf of smaryllis. Could you tell me why the leave* turn yelloxct Due to rust. Spray with lime sulphur (1-120) or Bordeaux (3-4-50). G.M. (Grey Lynn) ask*: What to do with grub in potato? Due to wlreworm. The control hi to treat the soil with a soil fumigant before planting. However, It is usually not a very serious pest except the first two years the land is newly turned out of grass. Continuous cultivation and cropping puts it out of action.

H.C. (Coroglen) asks: (1) Bote to use] Volck white oil for spraying cabbages and cauliflowerst (2) Also when to sow anemone and ranunculus seed for flowering next springt (3) My soil is infested with large Mack caterpillars, which destroy a large percentage of cabbage plants. Is there anything I can do to combat themt (1) It should be used as per directions on container, which Is 1-80. Apply It as a spray as soon as plants begin to grow. To control white butterfly the spray should be followed with an application of Derris dust next day. As the plants grow further applications should be given. (2) February or March. (3) Use horticulture naphthalene. App7y it to the soil when digging, or dust it round the plants after setting them out.

M.S. (Mangere) write*: Your advice ha* been most helpful in the past. I have some cinerarias now past their best, and have been told that if 1 cut them back they will flower next year from the same root. Is this so, or must you plant every yeart

Glad to know my advice has been useful. I am always willing to assist bo far as I am able, in solving garden problems. It is possible to cut back cinerarias and to procure cuttings from old stools, and these flower the following year. This was the method in vogue at one time when double flowered varieties were grown. With the present day strains, easily raised from seed, it would be a waste of time te attempt to grow from cut-back plants. When flowering is over get rid of the old plants and procure fresh seedlings next autumn.

EUREKA (Ponsonby) writes: I have a lemon tree, named Eureka, which seems quite healthy and has an abundance of flowers, but when the flowers are finished, and fruit is formed, it falls off.

Citrus verrucosis Is a disease attacking fruits, leaves and laterals of citrus fruits. The disease hibernates In old lesions on mature leaves, and from these spreads to developing leaves and fruits. Leaves are susceptible from the time of emergence from the bud; fruits are susceptible from the time of their formation. Control Is readily obtained by the use of Bordeaux mixture. Spraying should be done about once every month, except when trees are in flower.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/AS19371113.2.213

Bibliographic details

Auckland Star, Volume LXVIII, Issue 270, 13 November 1937, Page 9 (Supplement)

Word Count
1,353

THE WEEK'S WORK Auckland Star, Volume LXVIII, Issue 270, 13 November 1937, Page 9 (Supplement)

THE WEEK'S WORK Auckland Star, Volume LXVIII, Issue 270, 13 November 1937, Page 9 (Supplement)