FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume LXVIII, Issue 156, 3 July 1937, Page 3 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES.

A Banner of Supreme Courage. (By A PARIS EXPERT.) THE Paris dressmakers, in the midst of depression and uncertainty and trembling political and social systems all round, flaunt the banner of supreme courage in making this season the most gorgeous revival of the really grande couture that Paris has seen since the war. The incredible handwork of French tradition is revived. Super-glamorous materials, glorious colourings and Midaslike furs romp all over the new fashions of Paris.

| The styles are indescribably fashion- 'l' J able, and the silhouette sends out new f j flare®, shooting off the slim, natural j j bodylines and making the most dashing i l and fascinating looking clothes you or I 1 I have seen these many seasons, topped 1 by hats that have their own daring flares. ] i All that is Juvenile In fashion has been < totally discarded, and seems puerile t compared to the aliveness and ageless quality of the new mode. The parasol 1 is brought back as part of the spring ensemble, and pretty spring sashes of J tulle tie in front, while puffy sleeves are : frilled, and garden party skirts are long. Remember to look ror dashing sleeves to set off very tightly fitted bodylines, and the new stiffened peplum fronted jacket and balloon topped sleeves. Remember to look for the swashbuckler hat made of straw—or satin if you prefer it. It is a cross between the picturesque cowgirl's headgear and that of the Mexican. I Paris Shows Many New Hat Styles. I I fhe newest hats are very exciting. ' I They are more than a little crazy, but I they are nice all the same. One of the ■i best of the Paris hats is the tricorne, I but how it has changed! It is a tricorne j' about the size of a pancake, and almost 3 as wide as a sailor of the late summer. r It has ribbons around the back that tie t in a bow at the nape of the neck, and the Parisian wears it slanting well over 1 one eye. The pancakfe or cartwheel 1 beret, about which much has been said already, have grown much madder, for ' now they are tucked and gathered so r they fly up at the sides and back like - wings. k The milliners are also making hats e with high pointed crowns. In fact, these "points" are getting very high, and the e brims are shrinking to mere rims. Any n materials can be used for these hats, s For the spring in Paris straw and sumr, nier felt, alone and combined, are the h materials, and they are also to be seen in straws anil silks of varied kinds, or y in satin or in crjpe de chine, or in il taffeta. Flowers are put on these i different shapes when the hat it dressy.

| Note the baby bonnet with a peak at j j the back, so that it does not look the 1 ■ least bit too young for a grown-up j j woman to wear, but please don't wear it i ; unless you are of the «uitable kind—a tip-tilted nose does well, but an aquiline one would look foolish. Fashions Here and There. It is whispered that Waistlines are . to undergo considerable changes, and at one of the late fashion openings we were shown waistlines short in front, and drooping wktfully at the back, while , skirt hems gently echoed them. Again. " waistlines are high or utterly neglected I in favour of the Empire gown, or appear - in two places at once. This notion j f carries on in a Greekv draping of satin i 1 gowre, not too classically regular. In | v fact, wonders have been done, with sym--1 metrical ideas, and numbers of skirts j have gored or pleated fullness at the h right side front, and divided skirts are s shown for sport*. i- An innovation where the evening gown k ia concerned is a feather bird poised, as | if arrested in downward flight, upon the

left shoulder, replacing the shoulder flower. A gigantic swallow appears on a j poppyed georgette frock, the "blue bird" < is snared in a mauve and silver mist. Trains have made a bid for favour, and the other day we saw a white Chantilly j lace dress flounced, and then trained in tulle; this train is detachable and can also be worn as a cape. Flowers play their part, lavishly trimming the decolletee line in evening gowns, and forming a new epaulette halter of harmoniously assorted colours. Beach pyjamas with lines as studied as an evening drees, and a matching loose coat in a glorious colourful print,; which was seen in a salon in the Champs Elyeees the other day, is an encouragement to follow the sun. Laces of All Kinfls. Wool lace is used In many Interesting ways, to make day suits, long coats worn over printed frocks and evening clothes. In the latter category is a lovely rose beige wool lace dinner drees with a corded silk gridle. Finer laces are also seen. Chantilly and net are used together to make evening dresses paillettes in lace design cover bodices and sleeves of dinner dresses. Laces are well handled in Paris this season, the gem of a fashion collection the other day being a fine black lace worked in three tiers in the front skirt, and a long delicate train of the same lace in keeping with shapely - thigh-fitting. Perforated fabrics trim 1 shoulders and sleeves, fronts and basques, and these are frequently shown on light ground in colour contrasts. Roses bloom everywhere, sometimes at the waistline, sometimes on the shoulder, and in the old-fashioned way right in front of the corsage. Citron and tilleul in flowess, in leaves and in tiny lemons hide in masses of tulle ir evening dresses and are seen trimming little hats of the saucer order, i An exciting new colour which we hav< 5 seen nowhere up to now is callec r. "ererettaa cm folir" (erasy akrinpa).