Empire Period Influence.

Auckland Star, Volume LXVIII, Issue 108, 8 May 1937, Page 3 (Supplement)

Empire Period Influence.

Tunics All the Rage.

(By A PARIS EXPERT.) THE large gathering which attended the opening of a millinery collection on the Rive Gauche expressed much interest in the novel models, nearly all of which have been inspired by the Empire and the Directoire period. Broad brims on the front only of these hats are worn straight up off the head in many cases, others of a more conventional type have been modified and are pulled down over the forehead, but the period influence is always apparent, particularly in crowns, whether of tones or brimmed models. Dark green and coral are the colours for early spring, with a very plentiful supply of black. Some curious notes are the big bunches of artificial mistletoe atop of tiny brimless hats, or a red and purple bird startled a critical audience, while a stiff upstanding veil gave its name as "The Cage." Movement is the keynote of all the new hats. They seem very literallv to be going places, the darting" of wings, the sweep of crowns, the direction taken by the brims all aid in creating this impression of motion which is, moreover, excellently interpreted hv some of the names, such as "Wind" and "Flame" given to the models. Distinctly new is the fine feather mount, which is usually combined with the same shade of fabric in a close bonnet. The feathers are worked so finely as to give almost the effect of panne. The use of shirring, both in velours, in satin and in taffetas, upholds the prediction that shirring will be popular this season. The Corslcan bandit beret, and the pork-pie hats, are on the crest of the wave. All About the New Silhouettes. Paris clothes this season flare out in daring angles. The silhouette sends out new flares showing off the slim, natural body-line and making the most dashing and fascinating clothes you or I have seen these many seasons, "topped by hats that have their own daring flares. One flared silhouette is the parachute coat line, with capes like parachutes off the shoulders of slim, moulded coats'. Another is the cone flared silhouette! Slim and sloping shoulders make the apex of the cone; from these the coat begins to flare in circular movements getting wider and wider until it is enormous at the hem. The redingotes are more like dashing shoulder topcoats-than anything else fitted slim to the waistline and with circular skirts below pinched in belts.

Tunics are everywhere, slightlv flared and knee-length, often in a dull crepe embroidered with beads or woven with cellophane. These take gay sashes or flowers, and many are in the new uncrushable velvets or in lame. Big patch pockets set at a slantin"angle appear 0 n many coats, and revers are often set high and are quite plain while the coats have no collar, to show the necklines of the dresses beneath which are nearly always very high. Leg o' mutton sleeves, hooped skirts and rustling petticoats will help to clothe you girls, and give you new chic. By the way, the hooped skirt in Paris is itL fr ? n J be l ng a re surrection of the 1860 style. It smacks of the epoch in some of its interpretations, but in general, manages to look pretty modern. The New Shades. Reddish browns, greens, cream and white, bright purplish blue, delicate pastel blues, shell pinks, lime greens, mauves, and much white-trimmed brown or blue, candy pinks and delphinium blues. Mid-season atmosphere of great gaiety—youthful white pique or starched linen touches on suits and frocks, posies of bright flowers tucked in belts or pinned on lapels, white daisies under chins, white sashes on black or navy dresses. "Mimi Pinson" fichus swinging pleated skirts. Wear white at nijrht, with an enormous bunch of unsophisticated cornflowers, poppies or buttercups and daisies in your belt. Headlight flowers will adorn us both afternoon and eveninir.

The new spring skirts will he short, exaggeratedly short. At night, wide skirts and crinolines will be on the tap. but they will have gored panels. No out-and-out trains will be seen, but sometimes a flimsy peacock tail, accompanies, a tulle or chiffon evening frock. Skirts for evening wear will float on to the floor, with enormous mileage at hem. A sensation seen at a recent opening: A pale pink quilted silk wideskirted dress, with coral button*?, and a short, fitted tailored jacket of deep pink taffeta. Concentrate On the Hair. The average woman has to rid herself of long-established prejudice. Prejudice must be eradicated first, before you girls can build a new personality successfully. So it is with hair. Numberless women have decided that their faces require waves brought forward over temples and forward on cheeks in front of the ears. Time and again it has been illustrated how the removal of this prejudice has smartened the whole appearance, made the woman younger looking and infinitely more chic.

This year hair may be dressy. Tt may be the simplest and trimmest of bobs, provided there is no taint of mannishness about the bob. The long bushy bob is outmoded definitely. It looks last-yearish or the year-beforeish. Tht> hair may be cut fairly long, but it is not allowed to hang long. It is either brushed up towards the top of the head or, if worn on the neck, the sides are studied for "line," and that line does not come straight down or wave down, ending in ear fluffs or forward cheek wads. Fluffiness around the face is out. Off the face is perhaps the most arbitrary ruling of the season. Off the ears, if you have the kind of ears. Off half the ear, anyway. Except in those few instances in which a neck roll or chignon is becoming, hair is ordered off the neck, too. Even with the roll or chignon, there is a design to the back of the head, so that the sides behind the ears are relieved of heaviness. Concentrate on the hair, girls'. You've done marvellous things with your complexions I know, and also with your figures, but there are still a good many heads of hair that need grooming, shaping and pruning in order to carry the face and figure beauty you have acquired or with which you were born. Snapshots From Paris. A gown seen on a woman once, never again produces an impression. The second time she wears it her appearance is taken for granted. A new gown or a new hat makes any woman seem elated or beautiful. Feeling beautiful is as good as being so. Watch ostrich feathers, for they are going to do interesting things.