Practical Gardening

Auckland Star, Volume LXVIII, Issue 1, 2 January 1937, Page 6 (Supplement)

Practical Gardening

by Dianthus

THE GREENHOUSE VINE. GUARDING FROM DISEASE. So long as the greenhouse vine is healthy and strong, and produces good crops of luscious grapes, it is a source of pleasure and interest to its owner. But no sooner does it show weakness and distress and refuse to bear fruit than it becomes a source of trouble and anxiety. That such vines frequently do fall victims to disease and to injury by insect pest is unfortunately only too true. This weakness must not be laid to the charge of the vine. It is the healthiesr and longest lived of any fruit +ree we possess. The failures are due to unsuitable conditions as a result of wrong management. As far as I know, no limit can be placed to its length of life, if conditions are favourable to its healthy growth are provided. We have evidence of this in the old Hampton Court and Cumberland Lodge vines. The former were planted in 1768; the latier, which is a cutting from the Hampton Court and Cumberland Lodge vines, and only a few years younger, is now the larger of the two. Both are in excellent health, and produce annually heavy crops of splendid grapes of the variety Black Hambro'. The Cumberland Lodge vine, which is situated in Windsor Great Park adjacent to Cumberland Lodge, produced in one year, not long since, upwards of 1200 bunches of grapes of jet black colour and delicious flavour. The glasshouse has been enlarged for this vine since then, and it now covers a much larger space. Both are the property of His Majesty the King. To grow a. vine successfully the first thing to do is to make the border. Once the roots are planted and out of sight little more is seen or thought of them by a large number of owners, and so long as they are healthy and strong all will go well. The first question we have to ask is: Shall we have the border inside or outside the vinery ? If the only question we have to consider is the welfare of the vine, have it partly inside and partly outside, failing which have it outside entirely rather than inside. Many people, in planting a vine, make the serious mistake of forming too large a border to start with. Such a border causes the vine to make rampant growth in the initial stages. Moreover, part of the soil will be sour and stale before there is a sufficient body of roots to All it. For the first two years the border should not be larger than 4ft square. Its depth should be 3ft, and provision must be made to secure effective drainage by, in the first place, laying a 3in main earthenware pipe at the base of the border and having a fall to an outlet of at least from 4in to 6in. Other lines of 2in pipes should be laid on the bottom of the border at 2ft apart, communicating and running into the main pipe. Cover the pipes over to the depth of Sin with broken brick ends or some other hard material broken into pieces about the size of a cricket ball. On the surface of this lay a covering of sods, green side downwards. The drainage will then be secured for practically all time. Should the subsoil or the border be of a porous description, resting on gravel, sand, or some other open material, artificial drainage will not be necessary. The depth of the border, given aa 9ft, includes 6in of drainage. If no drainage is added, 2Jft of depth will suffice. After the lapse of two years, if the vine goes on all right, the border must be extended, if partly outside and partly inside, 2ft on either side, but if wholly outside or inside, add 3ft must be added too). This will make the border in one case 6ft square and in the other one, and if entirely outside, 7ft long and 7ft wide. This will be sufficient to carry on the vine successfully for seven years, when another 2ft may be added and the border completed. The next thing to consider is the soil compost in whidi to plant. In preparing the mixture it should be borne in mind that the vine in its natural state grows on land which is perfectly drained. Therefore let the soil material be of a moderately open and porous character. An ideal soil for the vine is the following mixture:— Turfy loam two bushels. Broken bricks (about the size of walnuts two gallons. Old mortar two gallons. Bone meal half gallon. Borte coarse half gallon. Wood ashes one gallon. Lime ~ one gallon. Soot half gallon. The loam should be cut up into, lumps the size of one's fist and all the material afterwards well mixed together before placing in the border. If the border is partly inside and partly outside, let the vine be planted inside. In this ease apertures must be left in the wall for the roots, by placing iron girders on pillars of the front wall. If planted outside the aperture must be provided through which the vine stem can be taken into the house. Early in. May is a good time to plant, or as soon as the foliage has fallen in the autumn, or it may be carried out successfully at any time. A two-yelj-old vine is suitable for planting. Turn it out of the pot it is growing in and shake out all the soil from its roots; disentangle them as well as you can and lay them out regularly and as straight as it is possible"in the border, 4in below the surface. Let each of the ends of the roots be shortened by a few inches before planting takes place. Place the soil carefully round and amongst the roots with the hands, pressing it firmly to them. When planting is finished, tread the soil down moderately firmly, if fairly dry, but if at all wet do not tread until it is dry. BOH£COI£ OR KALE. The kales have the distinction of being the most hardy of any of our vegetables. Possibly because we do not suffer from very severe cold and because we have so many other vegetables that are hardy the kale is very seldom grown in our gardens. As a winter vegetable it is certainly worthy of a place, and if the j variegated sorts are grown they are very [decorative throughout the autumn and winter. They do not need a particularly [rich soil, an averige soil giving quite good results. The seed should be sown so that the plants are ready to put out during January or February. It is as well to have plants out soon enough, go that they have a chance to make a good strong plant before winter, but with our mild winters much later sowing and planting can be done. The plant can be put out to follow the potatoes, being planted between the drills.

The cultivation of mushrooms begins with the planting of spawn in specially prepared beds of composted stable manure. These may be situated either in a building or in the open. Mushrooms grown in the turf or fields and not on specially prepared beds may also be considered cultivated if they have originated from planted spawn or if

manures have been applied for the purpose of stimulating the cropping of naturally existing spawn. Until recent times the cultivation of mushrooms was more or less a gamble, but experience, and the knowledge gained as to the cause of failures, have made it possible nowadays to grow good crops with a considerable element of certainty. Even the most experienced growers, however, meet with difficulties and sometimes with failures, and the beginner is warned against embarking on mushroom growing on a large scale on the strength of a single initial success. It may be stated that mushroom growing can be started with little or no capital, without employing labour and with only a cellar, a garden frame or small wellbuilt shed; but under theee conditions the scale of operations cannot be too large, and an undertaking of this sort is to be regarded more as a hobby or a mean* of learning and is likely to yield only a small sum of money in total profit. Mushroom growing is not a means i of rapidly acquiring wealth. There are many wild species of edible fungi, but the mushroom commonly used as food and those in cultivation are varieties of Agaricus campestris and A. arvensis. The life cycle of a mushroom comprises three stages: —(1) Spores, (2) mycelium (spawn), and (3) mushroom. If a ripe • mushroom is carefully removed from i the ground, the white thread mycelium, < resembling roots, can be seen at the : base of the stalk and spreading in the ground. If now the stem is cut off and the cap laid with the gills downwards on a sheet of clean white paper and left in still air for a day, a fine, brown < powder will be found to have fallen < from the gills. This consists of millions of minute spores or "seeds" of the mushroom, which, under natural conditions, would be thrown off and carried : by the wind, probably to blades of grass i near by. When the grass, or the hay made from it, is eaten by a horse, the spores, even after taking two to four days to pass through the animal's body, are believed to be capable of germination in the dung. Direct germination of the spores in the soil or on manure, without previous passage through the alfmentary canal of an animal, can take place under natural conditions, but the extent to which this happens and mushrooms develop in consequence in pastures is probably largely determined , by surrounding conditions, including the amount of competition with other fungi encountered there. Germination of the spore* in dung leads to the formation of a mass of white fungus threads (mycelium), which permeate it. The resulting product, probably mixed with mycelium from vegetative growth, is known as "virgin" or "track" spawn. This material is used by the makers of

commercial "brick" spawn„who are able to •identify it *by J its 'appearance and peculiar scent. It "may occur in cattle sheds, about farmyards, under haystacks, and in stables, and in the days when horses were used it was found in mill tracks. The; practice of inoculating a further .quantity of bricks with pieces of those first made is said to result in loss of vigour and fruitfulness. Virgin sp&vjvn should not be collected from mycelium that has already borne mushroom. The most common form in which spawn is bought is known as "bricks." This is made as follows:—Cow dung with litter, or a mixture of horse droppings, cow dung and loam together with the litter, and in a soft condition, is well turned in an open shed, and when dry enough is moulded into bricks, each measuring about 9in by sin by ljin. These, when sufficiently dry, are set on edge for further drying and, when ready, are made into a stack with two

MUSHROOM GROWING AND CULTIVATION.

small fragments of either virgin or pure culture spawn firmly placed in each brick, or, more commonly, between one brick and the next. The stack, if necessary, may be covered with sacks or with dung to preserve moisture and an internal temperature of about 60 degrees F. The bricks then become covered with and, penetrated by the white mould-like growth of mycelium. Before growth

goes too far and before the mycelium becomes thread like, the bricks are removed, slowly dried and stored in a cool, airy, dry place, not exposed to frost in winter. They are then ready for use or for sale. Intending growers are advised to purchase this brick and not to depend on making it themselves. The more recent method of growing mushrooms is by pure culture spawn, also known as sterilised, bottle or carton spawn. Its preparation entails the collection, under germ-free conditions, of tissue or spores from the best selected mushrooms. The previously germinated spores, or the tissue, are transferred to prepared, bottle horse manure, or other medium, which has been made sterile by heat under pressure. The white mycelium from the tissue, or from the germinating spores, rune through' the sterilised material just as it does from virgin spawn into bricks. The medium thus impregnated is then used for increasing the stock and the material is sold in the bottlev or v removed from that and dried and\kept in a cool store. It is packed in cartons and may be put on the market in either dry or moist condition. Only mushroom growers who have the necessary training and equipment for the laboratory methods involved will be able to undertake successfully the making of pure culture spawn. The outlay of a large amount of money will be required and the work is continuous. Unless, therefore, the grower is producing mushrooms on a large scale it is certainly not worth while contemplating spawn manufacture for home use only. It is probable that old or carelessly stored spawn has been one of the main causes of failure to grow mushrooms successfully in the past; care should therefore be taken that spawn is purchased from a reliable source. Both brick and pure culture spawn are commonly dry when bought; they should not be more than six months to a year old, and they should both show the white mushroom mycelium on the surface and throughout the material. There are several points for consideration.in the choice of the type of the epawn to purchase. Excellent crops have been and can be grown from good, freshj brick spawn, but it has been found that there is more certainty of obtaining a crop and a heavy one from good quality pure culture spawn. Cost of transport and storage accommodation for brick spawn is necessarily more than for cartons. After what has been said about the process of making brick spawn it will be realised that it may contain mycelium from unknown and unselected mushrooms, and the resulting crop may consist of a mixture of types showing variation, particularly in size and colour. Pure culture spawn, on the other

hand, always yields crops that are true to a selected type and colour, so that it is quite possible, for example, to grow white or brown mushrooms along one side of a ridge bed and cream coloured ones along the other,. Very great improvement, however, has been effected in this direction by some makers of brick spawn, and crops of uniform type and colour can now be secured from this spawn also. Damp pure culture spawn is preferable to dry for the following reasons:—Not being in a dormant condition it starts into growth more rapidly; it is not so likely to fail if subjected to bad treatment by being planted in beds that are too wet or too dry. It is almost certainly fresh. It must be removed from wrapping and used promptly, but can be kept in a cool, airy place for a few days if the beds are not. quite ready. Dry pure culture spawn is, of course, preferred by dealers, who must hold stocks.

TOMATOES. IMPROVING THE CROP. Tomatoes that were planted out early will now be making good growth, and in many cases they will have some good hunches of fruit forming. Caterpillar are sure to appear and a dusting occasionally of flowers of sulphur and arsenate of read powder or noa*j>oieonous derris powder will control them before they are able to do any harm. All lateral shoots and also any growths at the ends of the flower or fruit trusses should be pinched out. The habit of removing a portion of each leaf is of questionable value, and seems to have arisen chiefly from the idea of allowing the sun to get at the fruit and haete:i ripening. As such, however, it is of no value and the less wounds made on a plant the better. The removal of laterals i* quite sufficient pruning without cutting away the half of each leaf. The extreme tips of the fruit trusses usually only produce small fruits or none at all, and it gives much better results if the tip of the trues beyond about the sixth or eighth fruit is removed. This of course stops the production of those extremely long clusters of flowers and fruits ,so often seen, but the actual weight of fruit per plant does not suffer and the ripening process is certainly hastened. Trusses of heavy fruit are best supported by being slung by a piece of raffia to the stem or stake. The stakes or whatever method of support is used to keep the plants, upright should

be sufficiently strong to keep the plant secure during heavy gales. Once a plant collapses it Is very seldom that it cab be properly supported again, foliage and fruit trusses are broken and stems twisted and in general the whole plant shows plainly the result right to the end of the season. Feeding should not be commenced or necessary until the bulk of the fruit has set or at least a fair crop has set. Once you start feeding the plants the growth becomes rampant and the fruits do not set nearly as well and the plants lose their compact, tidy habit. Unless the plants show plainly that they do need manure it is safer not to give >any, as in the majority of cases it only aggravates excessive growth and disease. DICTAMNtTS FRAXTWELLA. Dictaninus Saxinella, sometimes known as burning bush, is a very handsome herbaceous plant, which is somewhat of a rarity in our gardens, and might much more frequently be used to advantage. It is a native of South East Europe, found growing wild freely in some of the ravines in the Balkan hills, its handsome foliage and striking flowers attracting instant attention, even in any place where beautiful flowers were very abundant. Under cultivation it attains a height of two to three feet, spreading freely, and forming a good-sized clump. The leaves are, as the specific name implies, almost identical in shape with those of the common ash, but are just a trifle smaller, and of a particularly pleasing soft green. The flowers are borne in a long raceme, after the fashion and about the size of laburnum, but upright instead of drooping, the individual pips being of large size. The general colour is a deep pink, but pure white forms are obtainable. A feature of the plant is, that like most other members of the rue order, to which it belongs, it has an extremely powerful odour, and in hot weathor the scent pours out very freelv. It somewhat resembles that «rf aniseed. Indeed, the amount of volatile oil produced by this plant is such that it is said, on good authority, that in very dry places it catches * lire, and thus creates the illusion of a burning bush. This plant is sometimes called the bastard dittany from some resemblance to the true dittany, Origanium dictamnus, also a Levantine plant, which the an.-ients esteemed very highly as a remedy for wounds. INDOOR CHRYSANTHEMUMS. It is now time that all the plants required for flowering in pots were in their pots and standing out of doors in their summer quarters. This may be in an open, sheltered yard or along the eide of the garden path where they can be conveniently attended to. Stand them on a bed of ashes to keep worms from entering the holes in the bottom of the pots, and see that the canes are securely fastened to wires to keep them from blowing ab'mt.

PRUNING FLOWERING SHRUBS When it Is necessary to prune spring and early summer flowering shrubs the pruning should be done soon after blooming. This encourages the growth of vigorous young shoots on which next season's flowers are borne. The best time to prune largely depends on the time of flowering. In a broad sense shrubs which develop their blooms in spring and early summer should be attended to soon after flowering, while the pruning of late summer and antnmn flowering shrubs is best done in February and March. The three main, objects are:—(l) To encourage the development of vigorous young shoote. (2) The thinning of the growth, removing as much old wood as possible in order to allow the sun and air to ripen the new shoots. (3) The training of each bush into a good shape to fill to the best advantage the allotted space. Some of our most beautiful flowering shrubs need little or no pruning. They appear to resent the use of the knife, which may easily spoil their beauty. The magnolia may be cited as the best example of a shrub which it is desirable not to prune. With most flowering evergreens no definite line of pruning can be followed. It is usually only necessary to keep the bushes shapely. When they become too large for their positions or lanky in growth hard pruning, just as growth commences after flowering, is desirable. This treatment with a rhododendron, for example, means the sacrifice of a season's flowers, but it pays in the long run. * PLANTS FOR DRT BORDERS. Where the soil is light and dry and especially in front of walls or fences that reflect the heat of the sun, single and double petunias, gazanias, and antirrhinums may profitably be planted, as they stand a considerable amount of heat and dryness. In wet seasons the petunias are often a failure, especially in rich soils, where they grow too rank to flower well.

OTPBEPSXHTOIU. The correct time to repot eyprepedlums m when thsy are just starting to make fresh growth, though it may be done a little later. To get good results, the repotting should coincide with the commencement of growth. If this has proceeded too far, it is better to topdress the plants with fresh compost or simply with live sphagnum. Repotting becomes necessary when the

pots or pans are too full of growth. Each tuft of leaves with roots will make a plant, though larger pieces are more effective. Use clean pots or pans and at least All them half their depth (three-quarters will not be too much) with clean crocks. Make up a compost of equal parts of chopped sphagnum and peat fibre. Put a little of this on the crocks, set on the plant, and fill in the compost, pressing it firmly. Finish up with live sphagnum that has not been chopped and press it down to be on a

level with the neck of the plant. The base of the leaves must not be buried. At this season, or from November to the end of February, the temperature of the house should be kept up to On to 70 degrees by day, allowing a drop of five degrees by night. C. insigne, C. venustum, C. eairie&num and their hybrids need not be kept warmer than 55 to 60 degrees. The atmosphere should be kept very raoiat. BORDER. CARNATIONS. There need be no delay in layering carnations to get them well rooted and ready for removal by March. If care is exercised not to injure the flower stems the work of layering does not interfere with their flowering at all. Make up a compost of loam, leaf mould and eand. Make a hollow basin around each plant, put some of the compost in this, and cover the layers with more.

HOW TO PROPAGATE ABUTDLONS. Propagation is effected by seed* or by cuttings. Seeds should be sows in spring in a light soil containing plenty of leaf mould. The seedlings should be pricked off singly into three-inch pots when large enough. The best and quickest way however to get good flowering plants is to raise them from cuttings, and these may be taken in spring or autumn. Tear off the young I shoots of the plant, so as to get a heel or piece of the old ripened wood, trim with a sharp knife, and shorten the cutting to about four or five inches. Cuttings should be inserted round the edge of a five-inch pot, putting four in each pot. The soil used may be the same' as recommended for potting, but a layer of sand must be placed on the top so that when the cuttings are inserted a little sand will go down and settle at the base of each. Press the cuttings in firmly, water with a rose, and keep them close and shaded from the sun for a few weeks. Plants from old tubers will usually require three stakes to each. The first and stoutest should be placed at the back when growth is about one foot high. Later on, as growth extends and thickens, two stakes should be placed to form a triangla with the original support. Soft fiHis twine is the best material for tying, and if a stem is secured to each stake, and the siring so arranged that the foliage covens it, as is easily done with a little practice, no unsightly support need be -risible after a few days' growth.