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TO CORRESPONDENTS

A..T. (Wliangarei) asks: When to sow broad beans.—Broad beans yliould be planted now, and again in August or September, for succession. Sow the seed in a double row, the seeds six or seven inches apart. Tliey are most suitable for heavy soil and cold positions. They do not do very well in light volcanic soils and in warm districts.

'R.M.A. (liemuera') asks for information re Lillum sulphureum.—Lilium sulpliureum is quite hardy, and does well grown outside in and about Auckland, but neerls a well drained position. The bulbs once planted should not be disturbed for several years, when the stems ami flowers will increase in strength. As it grows, when established, seven or eight feet high, it requires to be well staked, and should be planted with some protection from strong winds, between two tall shrubs is a rood position.

T.H. (Auckland) asks : How far apart to put the plants, and how low to cut thorn, when moving a Teeoma hedge which was planted two years ago?—lf the plants are large you can allow more space between, but It depends on the size. Allow sufficient so that there is a space of about six Inches clear between the outside branches of each plant. If you cut down to between 12 and ISin from the grouml it will be sufficient. G.H. (Grafton) asks: (1) After renovating old fruit trees, how to proceed with tlio branched and long stems. (12) Lemons and Pourmau oranges require pruning, ana would it be wrong to cut out crooked stems? (3) What is the cause of non-fruiting? (4) How to eradicate sooty scale and the borer on lemons, etc. (5) Do camellias require the growths thinning, the blooms get damaged with the foliage?—(l) The fruit frees require severe thinning. Cut out all inside growths, dead branciies and any that are crossetl. The long stems should then be cut back to the required length. This will probably reduce the fruit crop next season, but it is the only method to follow to have success later on. (2) Lemons and Poorman oranges require little if any pruning with the exception of thinning the growths to keep the trees open so the sun can gain access to the inside of the tree. Crooked and any crosseil brandies should be cut out when thinning. (3> It is difficult to say why the trees are not lruiting, but probably it is due to the brandies requiring thinning. (4) Spray at once with red oil, using one part oil to twenty-live parte, water. It will be necessary to spray at least two or three times at intervals of three weeks or a month. The undersides of the leaves and stems must receive particular attention when spraying. This will also cure the white Hitli you refer to, The borer can be eradicated by going over the trees earetully, juiil "where the holes are seen squirt a little benzine or kerosene irl with a small oil can and then plug the hole with putty, clay or soap. (0) Thin out tiie camellia growths severely at the present tune. This will be more effectual than thinning the blooms when in flower. AMATEUR asks: (1) Do burnt bones have any value as manure? (2) What change takes place in burning from a manurial point of view?—(l) Burnt bones supply phosphoric acid, and have a value as manure. (2) Little change takes place except that the volatile ingredients are dissipated, and as that includes the nitrogen, one of the most valuable ingredients, burning can only be considered wasteful.

(Devonport) asks: (1) Can limeMi Iphu 1* he used 111 place of liordeaux mixtlire for winter spraying ol' fruit fofrT ""t " " R ' vo as good results? U) How to prepare a lawn? (3) How much mtt'v w " T ku for a lawn 20ft by M>it: (4) \\ hen to sow grass seed? (1) Lime-sulphur is quite as effective as >\ i ( ! aux mixture for winter spraying. . ». ?i" p then well lirm and raKe the surface smooth, removing all stones and breaking any lumps. If a i olier is at hand It can be nsed for firming with advantage. If the soil is poor add a good dressing oT bonedust at the time of digging. (3) Eleven pounds. It is false economy to sow seed thinly for lawns. I'lie best time to sow seed is early autumn, out as that time is passed sow about the end of July.

I. A\ !■.N DER (Penrose) asks. How to grow laiender/ Lavender can be grown from seed or cuttings. The seed from most seedsmen, or plants from nurserymen. Ask for the Old English lavender. The seed can be sown now or in the spring. Choose a well-drained, sunny position. Cuttings can be inserted now or in the spring. I'uii off pieces three or four inches long and trim the ragged base. Insert them in welldrained sandy soil. The soil should be made very lirm, and the cuttings shaded from very bright sun until rooted. Lavender likes a sandy, dry soil; one that is inclined to be poor. No manure should be added. It also needs a position open and free from any shade whatever. It does very well as ail edging to a path, as this position is usually fairly dry and well drained. Lavender under these conditions is easy to grow, hut it will not stand excessive wot or shade. The plants have a habit of dying off when they get two or three years old, but this can be provided against by striking a few cuttings each year and destroying the old plants. They are at their best when about two years old.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/AS19360613.2.253.47.11

Bibliographic details

Auckland Star, Volume LXVII, Issue 139, 13 June 1936, Page 6 (Supplement)

Word Count
943

TO CORRESPONDENTS Auckland Star, Volume LXVII, Issue 139, 13 June 1936, Page 6 (Supplement)

TO CORRESPONDENTS Auckland Star, Volume LXVII, Issue 139, 13 June 1936, Page 6 (Supplement)