LATEST FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume LXVII, Issue 139, 13 June 1936, Page 3 (Supplement)

LATEST FASHION NOTES.

Hats in the Spring Will he "Different" COTTONS AND LINENS WILL BE DANCED IN.

(By A PARIS EXPERT.)

FRENCH millinery collections for spring were shown later than usual this year, due to the fact that few foreign buyers had arrived in Paris. Certain definite trends, however, were indicated both in shapes and materials. Consensus of opinion amongst producers of hat materials was that the season would be spelt in three different stages. First, for the early months, interest was shown in silks, particularly satins and taffetas. For the actual spring season many different versions of shiny and brilliant surfaced straws and materials are advanced. This is partly due to the fact that black is expected to be the predominating colour, and the media must be striking enough to demand attention. The third stage for late spring and summer is represented by dull or shiny straws. Among the latter, one sees two direct contrasts, expressed in very fine types and in gros paille. The Paris modistes in general are of the opinion that straws will run to these two extremes throughout the entire season. There is a whole series of shiny straws and fabrics, many of which, particularly the latter, incorporate cellophane. There is a straw combined with cellophane called "crystal," which is fine and. has a tiny rib. Brilliant "gros paillasson" and "neo taffetas," shiny and silky, in braided effects, are also high-lighted. We shall see neo taffetas combined with grosgrain ribbon a good deal in the near future.

" Baby Bonnet" Hats for Women. Hats which look from tlie front like a baby's first bonnet, and from the side like a native headdress, are being made for spring by Paris milliners. Whether they will go far to satisfy the feminine passion for change it is difficult to say, but they are the first shot on the new battle which has begun to rage once more against the shallow crown. The most that can be said of them is that they fit well down on the head, but they are also pushed well to the back, leaving the entire forehead exposed. It is true we have seen this type of hat for some time, but the new form is more exaggerated, if possible. Even the most sophisticated debutante can hardly fail to achieve an ingenious air with this sort of thing, but the woman who has been patiently waiting for a hat which is neither shallow nor difficult to wear will have to wait a little longer. A New Angle. The side view is interesting, because it shows a new angle which is creeping into all kinds of hats —a slanting line going straight back to the brow, to a tiny "crown," which is perched at the back of the head, and is no larger than the rim of a coffee cup. Though the great majority of hats are small, a model that is frankly large appears now and then at formal afternoon functions. Often such hats are of satin and untrimmed, depending entirely on their beautiful lines for chic. The hat that accentuates a forward movement predominates in many early spring collections. Trimmings, when they appear at all, are of the very simplest. Gardenias, white, pale pink, rose red, and some times beige, are good. Ribbon is used conservatively. Buckles remain popular. A decidedly new idea is the use of birds, singly or in an amusing group perched on the crown Of a hat, a few "shaving brush" feathers appear, jutting _ out sharply from the side. There is a

rumour that aigrettes will be very much, used 011 the little 1830 shapes, but they must be used expertly, or they become merely "fussy," not smart. Cottons and Linens in Favour. Cottons and linens are going to have their innings this summer. These seasonable fabrics are more and more appreciated for warm weather wear. Women like to dance in cotton and linen, and they love the fresh, coollooking touches that tliey give to other fabrics when used as trimmings. Their growing popularity is also due to the fact that each year these summer materials grow more beautiful. The cottons are doing themselves in texture and design. The silk linens are exceptionally fine. "Silk" is used merely to describe their appearance; not a 6ingle thread produced by the industrial worm finds its way into them. It serves especially well for action and spectators' sports dresses. Printed linens are beautiful; they have the look of deliciously cool wools. Then there are the peasant linens of coarse weaves. There are some very smart linep suits that are glove stitched. The seams of a white linen suit will be hand-sewn in dark blue, the accompanying blouse also being dark blue; others in a tan and' brown combination are stitched with the lighter shade or the darker, and in the reverse order. Satin, moire and lace, are favourite materials, and are chosen to give distinction and slenderness to evening gowns, and in the "Fashion Showings" I also noticed some plain coloured chiffons which looked refreshingly youthful. Added flounces characterise many skirts, which thus achieve a line of their own, exaggerating the slenderness of the figure and keeping all fullness in the flounce. Posies of gay flowers are seen in bodices and in necklines.

Accessories. Jewellery of the inexpensive "imitation" variety is much in vogue and is astonishingly lovely in design. The gold, silver and gun-metal chokers and ball earrings introduced last season in Paris are being worn by smart Parisiennes a good deal. Many pearls are seen and they are worn in several charming ways. A long strand of tiny pearls, for instance, is looped two or three times, and knotted at the side of the neck in a most coquettish manner. Three short strands are joined by a large jade or sapphire stone to produce a slight resemblance to the traditional "dog collar" beloved of the dowagers. Very decorative large clasps on all necklaces are a new note. With the growing tendency to wear the hair off the ears, large ball earrings come to the fore. Many women wear some form of headdress or hair ornament, whether a big wreath of bejewelled leaves, or artificial flowers, ribbons, clips or bandeaux. Huge corsage posies of artificial flowers are also much favoured. Dainty sandals showing enamelled toe nails are worn by a few of the younger generation in Paris. It is, though, difficult to tell whether stockings are worn with them or not, so very fine and transparent may be the hose. Little Changes. • Dress styles do not show any revolutionary changes. Some are of the picture type, but mostly they are very elegant in line, fitting closely over the hips and spreading at the hem and made of very pretty fabrics. In the evening wear such shades as Bordeaux red and petunia, cardinal's red and bishop's purple are to be seen. Sometimes these two colours are used together in a gown. Many dresses have matching wraps or capes to covcr the shoulders.