FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume LXVI, Issue 70, 23 March 1935, Page 3 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES.

EVENING PSYCHOLOGY. GOOD-BYE TO FLAT HATS. (By A PARIS EXPERT.) When the day ends about four o'clock in the afternoon, and the nights do not terminate until four in the morning, clothes for that extensive period around the clock are of first importance in Paris, Then, there are so many places to go to to keep out of the dark. Evening clothes play a psychological, as well as a sartorial rolo in the night life, too. If you have had a hard day, if your latest maid has given notice, or your baby is teething, there is something in dressing up in evening clothes and going out somewhere to join the bright-light crowds that acts agreeably on the spirits. It is much more lasting than a cocktail, and has the dual virtue of giving as much gaiety to your companion as it does to yourself. Most people will admit that going to the theatre without the preliminary change of costume doesn't somehow give the same tang of happiness that going out "dolled up" does.

Evening Elegance. There are fewer trains on the whoi< except among the very formal gowns Fullness, however, is still set behind, 01 if the skirt is- tight, then some interes is concentrated about tlic back of til waist. There is a new line for evenin; skirts. This is the skirt that is actual!; short in front, but wso draped that tin effect is somewhat veiled, while at tin back they trail, rounded, like peacocks tails. Some of the new evening gown: have bodices which are twisted bad over the shoulders in one long piece and the minimum of sleeves are used ii most models. Everything is a marve of cut and a discreet use of trimming, o in some cases, complete lack of it allow; each dress to be admired for itself alone Paris, this season, is avoiding all ten dency to over-trim her clothes, or t< indulge in eccentricities, and lias sue cecded in keeping those very youthfu lines which are, however, in no waj confined to the young, but arc very suit able for all women with slender figures Rather high necklines are a feature foi both day and evening clothes, and nc back is exaggeratedly cut away, ever for formal evening wear, but is mor< often partly concealed with the twistec straps from the shoulders. Lace aiu velvet feature in evening gowns. Some of the best coats are made oi cloth, and fur combined in about equal proportions, or of two different furs There will be heaps and heaps of jacket ensembles, but the jacket is quite long, and that means from finger-tip tc knee length. It is either cut circulat

and therefore what the call "coneshaped" in Paris, or it is the tunic jacket like the Imperial Russians used to wear. You can guess that the skirt under such jackets is a narrow affair.

Fashion Here and There. The waistline remains strictly normal in most models, and necklines are often very high in afternoon gowns. In most cases they arc plain and devoid of collars or any bulky trimmings. The skirts for daytime retain the usual length of past seasons, though for the afternoon they are slightly longer, and of ankle length for dinner wear. Sleeves are very interesting and they are often contrasted in colour. The leg o' mutton eleeves may be frequently noted, especially in cloth cloaks. 'Fine embroidery and encrustations play an important role, and confetti lace and coloured pastilles, together with sequins, are seen all over the place. A quantity

of heavy lace is used, especially for cocktail ■. frocks, which are frequently black and frequently of velvet. Often

the entire back of a gown is of lace, and the front is worked up in black points fastening with shining ornaments near the neckline. If you need a dressy blouse, and know how to knit, reader, you might try making a silver

sweater. Paris likes the silver sweater with the velvet or wool skirt. Tinsel stripes, or otherwise, patterned silk, and silk scarves are chic to wear with the season's coats.

Some of the knitted sports coats have jackets like Little Lord Fauntleroy wore. These close: on gold nugget buttons that miglit liave been treasured by a Forty Niner.

The Age of Clips. Everything—meaning everything in the way oi: feminine apparel —clips this season. Ear-rings, brooches and belts "clip on" and big monograms or initials are made to clip on dresses or bags. The latest clips are inspired by Mexican cowboys' caps, or woolly headgear, and some new hats are fitted with secure clips underneath. Coats clip together at the neck, or waistline, falling loose —and allowing the dress to show everywhere else. Special clips studded with brilliants are worn by some women to hold their hair back in the evening. Until fashions change then this might be called an "age of clips."

The new cord necklaces and bracelets are smart, and they do that "something" to the wearer which means such

a lot. Several strands of fine lacquered cords of graded lengths, listened into a metal clasp of modern design, fashion this new idea in costume jewellery. Bright blue with a dull silver clasp, or Hashing red with a bright clasp, might please the feminine fancy, but the dull white, fastened with a gold double knob clasp, is a temptation. The matching set of 'necklace and bracelet will set off spectacular sports frocks to perfection.

Millirifery Fashions. We must say good-bye to flat hats, flat coiffures, flat crepes. Hats, as you have- been informed, have crown inflation. The new high hats look like a musical comedy hussar'e. And for a change you can nave a Russian tricorne or a high velvet bonnet of the "baby" kind. Feathers figure in the new season's hats. The way in which they are worn arc as varied, for they may stand up straight,, slant at dizzy angles across, or be discreetly placed in a fold of the hat.

While most models are kept well off the back hair, there is a decided inclination to abandon the exaggerated over-the-ear tilt, and the new line is slightly forward, on the brows, with a barely perceptiDle penchant to one side. There is a reciirn of those little veils which wyie so universally popular last spring. It is whispered that waistlines are to be raised immediately below the bust or ?ome similar fantastic arrangement.

Simplicity as a smart factor will be more noticeable than ever in the fashion world this season.

Some of the new long afternoon dresses have slanting uneven hemlines that touch the floor.

The new gored bell skirts are not becoming to everybody. Paris adores emerald green and vivid violets. All the crepes rustle this season. The new cunic dresses offer many possibilities for promotional ideas. Large paillettes and clanking sequins arc used either in colour, or in silver or gold, for short flared jackets, and sometimes for evening dresses.

Capes are very a la mode, ranging from shoulder capes on formal frocks, to three-quarter length capes on coats.