BULBS IN MOSS FIBRE.

Auckland Star, Volume LXVI, Issue 58, 9 March 1935, Page 6 (Supplement)

BULBS IN MOSS FIBRE.

A SUCCESSFUL METHOD

The success which has been achieved by growing bulbs in moss fibre and •/round shell now offered for sale under the name of bulb fibre, proves that this b one of the most charming and effective methods of growing bulbs. Freesiae, narcissi, tulips, hyacinths, lihume, iris, lily of the valley and other kinds all do" well under this treatment. It is particularly suitable for those who do not possess a large garden or the convenience of a greenhouse or frame, and 13 also suitable to town dwellers who may have a difficulty in obtaining a supply of good soil. "The advantage of the system is that the vases can be placed anywhere about the house, in the drawing or dining room, without

fear of any mess from water or soil coming through the base of the pots, as the receptacles used are china or nonporous vases without drainage. The moss fibre is perfectly odourless and clean to handle, and can be purchased ready mixed for use or mixed in a large bowl on a table and leaves no dirt or stain. Failures sometimes occur, but these can usually be traced to the lumps of fibre not being properly broken up or the moss not being uniformly moistened before being put in the vaees. A frequent cause of failure is because a handful of charcoal nuts is not placed in the bottom of the vase. Bear in mind that growing bulbs in fibre does not do away with attention. Bulbs and flowers of all kinds to be a success must have constant care, and if this is not forthcoming it is of no use complaining and saying the bulbs or material are at fault." When growing bulbs in vases without drainage it is very necessary to first rub the dry moss fibre until it ie free from lumps, then well mix the shell with it and add water a little at a time, until the fibre i& uniformly moist but not wet enough for water to drop out when squeezed in the hand. Each half bushel of dry fibre will take up about four quarts of water and increase in bulk by nearly one-third. When potting put a few pieces of charcoal in the bottom of the vase to absorb impurities and to keep -the mixture sweet, then put in from one to three inches of the compost according to the depth of the vase, place the narcissi, hyacinths or whatever bulb is being potted, gently on the fibre and then fill up the vase to within an inch of the rim. When potted the top of the bulb should be about an inch below the surface, and, although it is desirable to see that the compost is placed well round the bulbs, it is not necessary or desirable to press it at all tightly, otherwise the roots do not work freely in the fibre, but the bulbe have a tendency to push themselves upwards, as is often the case with those that are pressed too firmly on the fibre. When potted they require,little attention for the first two or three weeks, but after that great care should be taken to keep the compost 'fairly moist, but on no account must- be it kept eodden or too wet. *On the other hand if allowed to become dry, even if only for a few hours, tho probability is the bulbs will go blind and the flower will dry up before it appears. This is particularly the case with tulips. The vases should be examined at least once a week, and a little water given if necessary, this necessity will soon be indicated, for as soon as all surplus water is absorbed the fibre becomes dry at the top and brown in colour. When watering give enough water to moisten the whole of the fibre and if there is any suspicion of too much water in the vase turn it on its side and allow the surplus to drain out and no more water will be wanted till the top looks a little dry again. When the bulbs have been potted the vases or jure should be kept in an airy collar or room, and if they have been potted an inch or so below tho surface no other covering is needed. When the bulbs have grown about an inch out of the fibre they should be brought into more light and given as much air as possible, for if air is not given the foliage becomes unnaturally weak and long and falls over, giving tho plants a bedraggled appearance.

PROPAGATING CHOICE SWEET WILLIAMS.

Choice Sweet Williams may be propagated by layering the leafy growths

UNOCCUPIED BEDS,

Beds and other plots recently occupied by narcissus and other early flowering bulbe, ae well as early planted, hardy annuals, such <is candytufts, scarlet linuins, godetias, esoholtzias, calendulas, and a few others that are past, should lie manured and deeply dug or trenched, burying all refuse and adding any leaf rubbish that is available. After the digging apply a surface dressing of lime. Plote tliue treated should be available and in excellent condition for replanting in hardy annuals and biennials for winter flowering, and for hardy winter and spring flowering bulbs. Early in March is soon enough to plant a selection of hardy flowering bulbs, notably narcissus, anemones, ranunculi, freezias and a few others.

A most attractive autumn sweet pea list has just boon issued by the well I known seedsmen, O'Leary Bros, and I Downs, Ltd. All gardening enthusiasts (will find it extremely useful in making ■their selection for the coming season. 'All the well known varieties of sweet peas, with many novelties, are described in detail and seeds and bulbs are also catalogued. The production, whirl] is the work of the "Auckland Star" job printing dppnrtiupnt. should supply nece-sary iiiforiiuition to jinnlciicr* generally and sweet pea growers in particular. i