MOUNT TASMAN.

Auckland Star, Volume LXV, Issue 17, 20 January 1934, Page 11

MOUNT TASMAN.

SUCCESSFUL CLIMB.

DIFFICULT AND DANGEROUS.

The ninth ascent of Mount Tasmnn was made last Tuesday, when Mr. Roy Twyneham, of Christchurcli, accompanied by Guide Jack Cox and Guide Mark Lysons, of the Franz' Josef, climbed the peak from the western side. The ascent, which was made in perfect weather, tooic 15J hours and included a travcTse of Mount Lindenfeldt.

Mr. Twyneham and his party left Wailio Gorge on Sunday and spent the night at the Aimer Hut. On Monday, says the "Press," they crossed the snowfields to the Newtown Pass and camped in the bivouac on the Pioneer Ridge. On Tuesday a start was made at 3.10 a.m. and a route taken across the snowfield to Engineer Col between Mount Tasman and Mount Lindenfeldt. From there the shouder of Tasman was crossed and the final climb to the summit made. On the journey down the route was changed from Engineer Col onwards, and a traverse was made across Lindenfeldt to Marcel Col. The bivouac 011 Pioneer Ridge was reached at G.oO p.m. Next day the party came down the Fox Glacier and back to Wailio Gorge. No Difficulties Encountered. "The climb was successful solely owintr to the great assistance given me by Guides Cox and Lysons," said M>\ Twyneham. He added that this was tiie third time Mr. Cox had made the ascen... There had been 110 difficulties at any stage of the climb, beyond the ordinary climbing difficulties. "Wo had a wonderful view from the shoulder of Tasman 011 the way up," said Mr. Twyneham. "The climb ahead of us then was one of the aweinspiring sights imaginable, and if it had not been for our knowledge that it had been climbed before, one would have hesitated to go 011." Mount Tasman has been climbed onee before this season, by the English alpinist, Miss Kate Gardiner, who was only successful at her ninth attack 011 the mountain. She took approximately the same route as that followed by Mr. Twyneham and his party, but climbs from the western side are comparatively rare, most of the eight previous ascents having been made from the east. Tasman has a reputation for the treacherous nature of the weather which prevails over the summit and for being a dangerous and difficult climb, and the small number of ascents which have been made testifies to the respect in which it is held by mountaineers.