Practical Gardening

Auckland Star, Volume LXV, Issue 5, 6 January 1934, Page 6 (Supplement)

Practical Gardening

ROSE BUDDING.

THE BEST METHOD. The rose may be budded in the spring if the buds are extracted with a email portion of wood adhering to them, but as a rule it is usual? y done in the summer, and if grafting should fail in the spring, the plant may be budded in January, and a season so saved. Budding in reality is a means of introducing a kind of parasitic growth. The stock in which the bud is inserted supplies the nourishment which is to nourish the latter and help it to become properly knitted together in the stock. This nourishment is given to it by the young outer wood of the stock, so that it appears of first importance that this outer wood should be in sap; the bark must part freely from the wood, and the sap should bo in an active state. One important point about budding is that there is no transference of any kind of material or substance from the stock to the bud. The only material result is that a thin layer of wood develops between the line of junction. Below this line of junction the wood retains all the properties of the tree from which the bud is taken, and no other. The commonest form of stock is a briar, while upon this stock may be developed any variety of rose. In taking a bud preference should always be given to those which may bo removed from summer shoots. They should be well grown, plump, and requiring no further development to bring them to maturity. As a rule, it is best to take the buds from medium sized for gross shoots will bear soft, immature, and large buds which rarely succeed. Similarly the buds of weak partially developed shoots will be small and difficult to handle properly. The best time at which to take these shoots for budding purposes is usually after mid-summer. No time must be lost after removing the buds before inserting them in the stock, but, if necessary, the shoots may be preserved in damp moss or other suitable material in order to prevent them drying. Then, before taking the buds, the shoots may be placed in water for some little time so as to plump up the buds. The method of budding is as follows: First of all a portion of th© stock must be chosen wherein to insert the bud. When this is noted, a shoot well furnished with plump buds should be selected, and a clean cut slip of bark and wood about li inches long, containing one of the buds, at about the middle of the slice removed from the shoot. This slip, which contains the bud, will have a kind of shield of Wood attached to it, and by inserting the flattened half of the budding knife between the bark a,t the upper end of the slip and the wood, the latter may be forced -out with a sharp jerk. In the centre of the slip will bo noticed the base of the embryo bud. This must not on any account be disturbed, otherwise the slip will be useless. Always choose the upper end of the 6lip for jerking out the wood, for some slight damage to the bark is unavoidable; and this end will be subsequently cut off when the bud is inserted in the stock. To prepare the stock for the insertion of the slip a cross cut must be made in it at the selected spot, and a slit about an inch long cut in a direction leading towards tlio stem in the case of a side shoot or downwards in the case of a vertical stock. The two cuts on the stock will be in the form of a long T, the knife just piercing the baric. Then, with the end of the budding knife, the bark or rind on each side of this T should be raised slightly, and the slip containing the bud inserted under the two angles of the T-shaped cut, and pushed down into the bottom of -the slit. The shield or bud may be readily handled by means of a leaf stalk or petiole. Great care must be taken to fit the shield exactly in the slit made in the stock, and the topmost portion of the shield -which overlaps the slit should be cut off, but not too closely to the bud. This should be done so that the inner bark of the bud will just rest on the outer wood of the stock. To keep the shield in position, it may be bound on to the stock with raffia, bast, worsted, or other suitable material. Anything that holds the bud down closely to the stofk and does not cut into the bark is the best material to Use. Within a pionth or so after budding the bandage may be loosened or removed, although it is usually a sign of failure if the leaf stalk be retained for a week or two. About eight days after the insertion of the bud, some growers prune down the stock to the branch which is immediately above the bud on the .opposite side, and this branch is stopped by being cut down to two or three eyes; all the side wood is destroyed, and when the bud has pushed its fifth leaf, it may be induced to branch hy pinching it at the top. As a rule it is advisable to be careful in shortening the stock, and generally this must be done very slightly, especially if the stock is a vigorous growing one, and the bud has taken well. The latter is then apt to be started into growth, and this growth rarely has time to become well matured before winter.

herbaceous calceolarias.

When sowing the seed of these most useful greenhouse plants, rather more than ordinary care is necessary to obtain the best results."-Prepare a seed pan by draining it well and fill with a mixture of loam and leafsoil in equal proportions with a good supply of sand. Make moderately firm, and leave the surface rather fine. Well water with a fine rosed can until the whole is moistened through. Leave the pan to drain for an hour or so, after winch the seeds may be sown as evenly as possible and not thickly. The merest sprinkling pf fine soil is sufficient for a covering, as the seed is so very small and apt to be buried, which causes uneven germination. When sown, placc a sheet of glass over the pan, which should again be covered with brown paper to prevent evaporation. Remove to a moist, shady corner in a cold frame. It is a good plan to place the pan on an inverted pot standing in water, as this will prevent slugs getting at the seedlings. As soon as germination takes place, remove the coverings and admit air cautiously to harden the seedlings and enable them to bear the light, but they must be shaded from sunshine. Very great care in watering is necessary at this stage of growth.

.PlAWthus

THE WEEK'S WORK. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Prepare Border Carnations for layering. Lift Tingitana Iris and lay in sun to thoroughly ripen. Remove spent blooms. Lift Freesias and Lachenalias. Sow Iceland Poppies. See that Dahlias and Chrysanthemums are securcly staked. Lift Narcissi. Sow Biennials and Perennials. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Sow Silver Beet. f Sow Dwarf Beans for succession. Keep Runner and Dwarf Beans closely picked. Plant Celery and Leeks. Mulch Peas and Beans. Lift the tops of Kumaras to prevent rooting at the joints. Bend over the tops of Onions to aid ripening. Hoe between crops at every available opportunity. THE GREENHOUSE. Ventilate freely. Dampen floors and benches two or three times a day. Shade will be necessary on most glass structures. Look over the watering twice a day to prevent plants drying out. Sow Cinerarias and Primulas. Pot on Coleus. Fumigation will be necessary to control red spider. Stop Perpetual Carnations. THE FRUIT GARDEN. Where necessary thin fruit crops. If brown rot is seen, dust spray with sulphur. Clean around the base of trees to ensure cleanliness. Cut off any twig infection of fireblight. Collect and burn all twigs, sterilise all wounds. Tie in vine laterals, pinch back sub-laterals to one leaf.

LUTING AND 1 STORING ONIONS

When lifting lar<re bulbs of onions they should be raised out o£ the ground with a fork, otherwiso if pulled, it is not unusual for the bulb to come away and leave a portion of tins base

in tho ground. This means a damaged bulb, which in many cases will begin to decay very quickly. When dealing with small quantities tho best method

is to tie the bulbs in bunches and hang them from the rafters of a wellventilated dry shed.

APPI/JSS. The smaller varieties of apples include many of the best flavoured ones, and to get them large enough to be presentable a severe thinning should be carried out, it being now possible to tell which are likely to make good specimens. All malformed and the smaller fruits where the trees are cropping heavily may be removed, remembering that the trees will give almost the same weiglit in fruit, although perhaps half the number be cleared from the treo. Many of the large cooking apples will, if thinned, be ready for use for sauce and tarts, and would in some cases also find a ready sale if s\ent to the market. In small gardens where but little room can be given to apple culture, early varieties could be easily dispensed with, as many of the long-keeping varieties will cook equally well, and in most instances both crops and trees would benefit by judicious thinning. If apples are required for exhibition purposes thinning can be carried on gradually until within a fortnight or so of the finishing of the -fruit, when but a few dozen specimens are left on the tree.

BEGONIA GLOIRE DE LORRAINE. Few plants have attained such general popularity as Begonia Gloire do Lorraine, for it is now to be met with in almost every garden. Since its introduction some distinct forms of it have been raised. Apart from the typical kind, with its pleasing pink blossoms, thcr« are lire. Leopold de Rothschild, in which the pink has a slight lilac suffusion; Bochfordii, which has been described as a red Lorraine; and Turnford Hall whoso flowers are almost white. Mrs. J. A. Petersen is a far more recent form of begonia, which greatly resembles Gloire do Lorraine. It is more compact in growth than Gloire de Lorraine, while the flowers are a bright rbuy-rctL The leaves are, on the upper surface, a -pretty bronze shade with a reddish reverse. Where winter-flower-ing begonias aro appreciated, this variety can be highly recommended. All the above-named forms of begonia are easily increased now by means of cultiflgs. As soon as the flowers are over, these begonias should bo cut -back partially and kept somewhat drier for a time. After a short time of this treatment, more water may be given when, under the influence of lengthening days and increased sunshine, the plants will rapidly push out new shoots, especially near the base. These make the best of cuttings, as they will in time form good bushy specimens, whereas those taken from the upper part of the plants are never so satisfactory. The cuttings should be taken when the new shoots are about 2in in length. The whole of the shoot must be treated as a cutting, for it is at the lower-most part, just where it leaves the main stem, that the roots are most freely pushed forth. By some, tlie cuttings are put singly into small pots, while others insert several together in a larger pot or pan. In either case the receptacles in which they arc placed must be clean and well drained, while a suitable compost may be made up of equal parts of loam, peat and sand, all passed through a sievo with a quarter-inch mesh and thoroughly mixed together. When the pots of cuttings are finished they should have a thorough watering through a fine rose, and bo placed in a close propagating case in the warmest part of the greenhouse, where a night temperature of 00 degrees or thereabouts is kept up. If there is a little bottom heat in the propagating case so much the better. The case will, of course, need shade from the sun, and the lights should be taken off every morning in order to dry up any surplus moisture. Care must be taken not to overwater the cuttings, as from their succulent nature they are somewhat liable to decay. When the cuttings are rooted, air must be given on the case gradually till the young plants are inured to the ordinary atmosphere of the greenhouse. They must then have the growing points pinched out in order to induce a bushy habit, and be shifted into larger pots when necessary. Single leaves are inserted by some people as cuttings. MARROWS ATTD CUCUMBERS.

When growing marrows and cucumbers it is an advantage to stop the leading shoot and afterwards to stop the lateral shoots at two or three leaves

beyond the fruit. This greatly assists the swelling of the fruit and prevents the growth* rambling all over the place.

CELERY. GROWING FROM SEEDLINGS. Celery seedlings which have been hardened' off should he transferred to their permanent quarters. The planting should he carried out when possible during rainy weather, hut failing that,

water the plants and apply a slight shade by laying come branches across the trench on top of the ridges. Select only sturdy, compact seedlings, ?ifting them with a good ball of soil attached, so that the roots will not be damaged. Plant about nine inches apart. Even-

Before earthing up, remove small aide shoots and tie up lightly. ing is the best time for planting during the dry weather. The tops of th-i ridges can be utilised brans, lettuce, spinach, etc. Earthing is a moAt important part of celery growing, and although it ifi too soon to start that operation, a word or two dealing with the operation may not bo out of place. Many growers commence to earth up the plants as soon as they commence to show signs

of growth. When the plants have made good growth an<l are about eighteen inches high all side growth or suckers should be removed and the plants lightly tied up to prevent soil from finding its way into the heart of the plant and causing decay. The soil can then be broken up finely and a few inches drawn up to the plants. About a fortnight

Blanching may be accomplished by using thick brown paper. later a second earthing can be given, and after a similar interval a further earthing can he given. Celery is usually ready for nee about three weeks after the final earthing. Blanching by means of brown paper collars is effective and clean. SEEDLINGS IN AN ASPARAGUS BED. To allow seedlings to grow amongst the permanent plants of asparagus beds unchecked is a great mistake. Such young seedlings growing thickly amongst the strongly-rooted permanent plants have no cliance whatever of growing into strong plants capable of producing us-eful grass. They succeed only in producing weak stuff of no value. Their presence is an injury to the growth, full development and fertility of the permanent roots. Fork tl.em cut by taking off the surface soil. This will expose the young roots, which are easily forked out, without damaging the permanent ones. Such young roots will be useful to form new beds if wanted. It 1 often hapfens that uncovering the roots will expose blank spaces in the permanent beos. Fill these up with the best of the plants, re-cover the roots as soon as possible.

DAFFODILS. EELWORM PEST. Eclworm is probably the worst pest that daffodil growers have to contend with, so much so that in many cases it has meant the cessation of daffodil growing in many gardens. Not only that, but it is ever a hidden menace for one never knows when, by adding a few fresh bulbs, ho may bo introducing eelworm. Anything that has shown signs of being an effective control is of interest to daffodil growers. The following is quite a new idea, and is certainly worth experimenting with. An Australian authority on this subject is one of Sydney's leading surgeons—Dr. H. R. G. Poatc, president of the Royal Horticultural Society of New South Wales and president of the N.S.W. Horticultural Council. Dr. Poate took the chief prizes at the Sydney Daffodil Show in September. After describing the signs of eelworm infection, Dr. Poate advises that with common bulbs the beat thing to do is to remove tho bulb with some three inches of soil around it, and put the lot on the lire at once; then put a good dressing of some antiseptic powder or solution into the hole, or even lime before filling. Where one wishes to save the bulb, remove all soil from around the shooting foliage right down to the base of the bulb and for some three inches around it. Then give a good powdering with a soil steriliser and mix some of it with the now earth being put in. Treatment With lodine. "lodine," says Dr. Poate, "is the only substance I have found which will kill the eelworms immediately —1 in 4000 will kill eelworms within ten seconds. I am experimenting this year by applying a solution of iodine to a number of infected bulbs by pouring about two tablespbonfuls around the growing shoot—strength 1 in 2000 (40 grains of iodine to the gallon), as it is best applied when the ground is moist, and this allows for further dilution. lodine itself is only soluble in water about 1 in 5000, so it is necessary to add an equal quantity of potassium iodide first as this renders the iodine readily soluble. Do not use tincture of iodine, as it contains alcohol. Avoid damage to young shoots- if any eelworms are present, as the early growing period is the time when bulbs are most likely to be attacked and Any break about the neck of the bulb, the growing shoot or at tho base of the leaves provides a fairly favourable point of entry for the eelworin. Be very careful, therefore, when treating the young bulbs or during cultivation of the beds, not to break or bruise .the shoots. The best precaution of all is to give all newly acquired bulbs a couple of hours immersion in a hot water bath before planting them, unless you know they have been treated before you received them. Even so, you will be sure to strike one occasionally that is at fault, so always plant for the first year in a 'quarantine' area not required for bulb 3 again for three years. Once you recognise eclworm be sure to lift the bulbs early, having carefully collected the dead and dying foliage and burned it. This old foliage frequently holds eelworms which will survive unchanged and motionless for as long as four years in the dried state, but as soon as it becomes moist and decayed, many or the parasites revive and enter the soil in search for a fresh host plant. When lifted, dry off the bulbs which are to be kept in quarantine until fully dormant (about three to four weeks), then clean them, burning all rubbish and decayed or soft bulbs, and sterilise carefull v bv the approved hot' water treatment for the full three hours at 110 degrees Fahrenheit. Replant in virgin soil; keep beds free of weeds as tho ribwort plantain and certain varieties of clover and onions are hosts for the eclworm."

ENDIVE. Endive is a useful salad for use during winter. The seed should be sown now and tlie plants transplanted into beds ready for planting out in their permanent quarters about March. ■ The plants should be planted about a foot apart. Blanching is easily dorffe by

using inverted flower pots with the drainage blocked up with a cork. Endive when blanched is even better than lettuce, and as it stands cold and bad weather better than lettuce it is worthy of more attention. Not blanched it is very bitter and not palatable. TO CORRESPONDENTS. C.L.E. (Great South Rd.) writes: I enclose a leaf of a runner bean, which, up to two days ago, was perfectly healthy. Is it affected with blight or would it be the result of the hailstorm we had a few days ago?—lt is due to the hailstorm. D.M.K. (Takapuna) asks: (1) What treatment to give Sweet William .plants whieli were sown last autumn and have not flowered much. They are huge bushes, about 12 to 15 inches. (2) Could I mix a manure suitable for flowers and vegetables generally?—(l) The Sweet Williams will flower next eeason all right.. You can lift the plants and divide them ; this should be done about March ; pieces pull off root quite easily, and will matte goo( 7 plants by spring, if planted about March or April.. (2) A manure for general use is: Bon,edust (4 parts), superphosphate (4 parts), sulphate of potash (1 part), sulphate- of. ammonia • (2 parts). POTATOES (Stanley Bay) asks: (1) How ,to grow potatoes successfully; when to plant, and what varieties to grow. (2) Is it too late to sow rock melons? (3) Is fowl manure good for potatoes?—(l) To grow good potatoes you need good seed, well-prepared ground, and manure, an open situation, and a well-drained soil. The soil should be worked until it is • broken down line and free from lumps to a depth of at least a foot. Trenching is an advantage. The sets should be about the size of an egg, be sprouted, and have two good, strong sprouts. If large seed is used, it cut, but each piece shoujd 'have at. least two eyes. For manure use superphosphate (10 parts), sulphate of potash (1 part), sulphate of ammonia (2 parts). This should be applied in the drills before planting. When the tops are about six inches high, and just before the first earthing, apply alongside the drills, a dressing of sulphate of ammonia, at the rate of one ounce to the lineal yard of drill ; this will lie incorporated with the soil during the process of earthing. Do not plant too close; most varieties need 36 inches between the rows and nine inches between the sets. Throughout ,Uhe season, the soil between the rows must be continually worked. Varieties are largely a matter of opinion, but the following are good:—Early: Cliff's Kidney. Supreme. Second early : New Era, Majestic. Main crop : ' Arran Chief. Gamekeeper. (2) It is fiuitc lute enough, but if poil is good, and weather favourable, you may manage a crop, (3) Yes. It can be applied in the drills before planting or alongside ilie rows before earthing.

THE GREENFLY. PREVENTION THE BEST. Gardeners both amateur and professional alike are always on the vatch for greenfly or aphis, and! although they have been on the -warpath for years and must have killed millions, one hardly dare estimate the quantity of spraying fluid or the cost. A good deal of this perennial trouble has been caused by not attacking the pest at the right time. Like most of our ills we will not anticipate them, but hope luck will be with us and that we shall be passed by. Year after year, however, they return in full force. The best method of fighting this pest is to prevent the propagation of the insect, and it is by studying its life history that we get to know the right time for dealing the death blow to its breeding activities. In the late summer the aphides lay their eggs in cracks and hollows of trees, bushes, wooden posts and similar places, and it is to the eggs of these last broods that attention should bo chiefly directed. The eggs are all female, and lie dormant until a warm spring day hatches them, and thus starts the extraordinary virginal self-producing system, which is continued with such astounding rapidly that it is estimated that a single aphis may produce about six million descendants in one season. About forty female aphides ara produced at a time, and in a few days, or even hours, according to the temperature, they grow to full size, and then produco the same number of offspring as the parent; thus the process is repeated throughout the summer months, and it is only the last brood, in the autumn, that produces males as well as females. The aphis therefore presents a true instance of what is known as "parthenogenesis," or virginal propagation. It is also an interesting fact that these virginal aphis mothers do not lay or deposit eggs, but that the young grow from the eggs inside them, and are only expelled when they are complete six-legged creatures capable of walking and ready to. feed on the leaves of the plants on which they are born. The last brood, which, in the autumn, produces both sexes of the aphis, considerably differs in appearance from the sumrher generations. Each female, after fusion with a male, lays a single egg, from which is hatched, in the spring, the stock mother or foundress; so it is obvious that tlio grower should wage war on the eggs of this brood. This may be done, by painting the trees and all woodwork with good tar washes, of which there are many now on the market, obtainable from any reliable nurseryman. All the places likely to harbour the eggs should ba thoroughly brushed over with a paint or nail brush. In the case of wooden arches or posts, the climber plant should be untied and carefully spread on the ground while the wash is used. This may bo a laborious process, but it is well worth while, and the labour thus involved will save much work in the summer months when time can ill be spared from other things. It is commonly supposed that the aphis only feeds on weakly trees and plants, but this is an erroneous Idea, for the plants chiefly attacked axe the ones with strong shoots that grow about the middle of the summer, and which should, therefore, be given special attention.