TO CORRESPONDENTS

Auckland Star, Volume LXIV, Issue 189, 12 August 1933, Page 6 (Supplement)

TO CORRESPONDENTS

HORTUS (Epsom) asks: (1) To hybridise daffodils is it necessary to remove the corona, so as to facilitate the removal of tho anthers while-the flower is on the plant. Is this done by commercial hybridists? (2) The anthers being removed immediately the flowers open, is it necessary to cover the flower from then till the seed pod swells? (3) When is the best time to apply pollen to the pistil, and how soon after the flower opens may it be done, aud how long docs the pistil remain capaCle of being successfully hand fertilised? —(a) No. (2) The flower should bo covered until the -pods begiu to swell, showing that fertilisation has taken place, the covering can then be removed. (3) The pistil is in the correct condition a lew hours after the flower is fully open, and remains in this condition for probably two or three days. the best timo to supply the pollen is in the middle of the day. M.N. (Kaiticke) writes: (1) We have one tree each of the following:—Oak, copper bcecli, horse chestnut, hazel nut and walnut Do these hear nuts without companion trees? (2) Would it be possible to graft the eating chestnut on to other trees, such as plum seedlings.' (.5) Many of my bulbs were blind last year, and this year they seem to be the same were not moved this reason. What is the reason for their not flowering. I do not remove leaves until (lead.—-(1) ies(2) Not successfully. (•!) I think you should lift, divide, clean and replant. If you have plenty only plant up tlie large bulbs.

INTERESTED (Hawke's Bay), writes:— Being interested in your notes I ask vou the reason why tomatoes pricked out three weeks ago flre dying off .lust above the soil. The stems turn brown anil tlie plant dies. Could vou give uie 1 lie remedy 4- —It is due to disease; this may be in the soil and so infected the plants, or it may l.e the plants were infected previously. At this stage dusting with sulphur may check it. Bull wet and cold weather has aggravated it without doubt. To prevent it sow seed and prick the plants out into sterilised soil. Soil can be sterilised by heat over a fire; it must not, however, be made red hot or dried too much; or. prepare boxes and Ihen pour a kettle of boiling water over the soil, letting it stand till water has run through and soil is cool. Soaking the soil twenty-four hours before using with disinfectant lluid Is almost as effective a sterilising agent as heat, and is more readily available and easily applied. E.D. (Bayswater) nsks : (1) Will Adlantum fern succeed as well in a manuka covered bush-house as in a glasshouse? (2) Will the fronds l»e as line and o£ such good colour? Suitable soil for bush-house for above purpose (l) Yes, it looked after and given proper attention. (2) In a glasshouse lie temperature being under control the adverse weather conditions do not affect the plant to the same degree as in a bush-house. The consequence is that in a glasshouse the foliage retains its freshness longer and the fronds are larger. In a bush-house the colour is a deeper green. (3) Turfy loam, leaf mould, and sand in about equal quantified. HF. (Tuakau) asks : The best way to grow eleagnus from cuttings. I have tried to grow cuttiogs, but when the dry weather comes the leaves drop off and the cuttings die.—The best time to put in cuttings is autumn, but you can also plant successfully now. Last season's growths!, about nine inches long, make good cuttings. The long whip-like growths cut in lengths make good cuttings. Plant in any ordinary soil. Plant Arm. put the cuttings quite half .their length Into the ground. If weather is sunny shade with a few branches. Water if weather is dry. Usually there is no difficulty In rooting cuttings. FIG TREE (Kamo) asks: (1) Would you tell me why my fig tree never matures its fruit. It is a white variety, and although it produced a fair crop, when they arc half-grown they fall oft".' (2) I have a voniig pear tree, and have been, told that it will bear no fruit until I plant another, is this correct? —(1) Due to improper fertilisation, which may be due to the variety. Procure* if possible, a branch of a fruiting tree in the spring when the figs arc ripening, and hang it on the branches of your tree. Planting a tree of a good fruiting variety in close proximity would be successful. (2) I cannof say unless I know the variety. Some sort of pears are self-sterile and need the pollen from another to effect fertilisation. Tfiere are sorts that are. self fertile and need no foreign pollen.

D.M. (Pukckohe) writes: (1) I intend planting pea seed this month. It I sprinkle the seed with turpentine, .then mix in red lead, will the birds keep away ! (2) Will turpentine bo detrimental it seed is kept over till next season V—(1) I have not found the red lead treatment effective with birds. It has the effect of preventing mice from eating the seed, but the birds go after the embryo plant, waiting until the seed has germinated, consequently the red lead on the skin of the seed is of no value as u bird deterrent. (L\) I cannot say, but I think it would. A.C. (Birkenhead) writes: I have some cream Belladonna lilies, and they have not ilowercd for two years or more. Last year I moved them, and had one bloom, this year none has bloomed. I use fowl manure and give plenty of water in hot weather. Can you tell mo what is the trouble?—l think you are over doing the manure and water. I-ct the bulbs have a season without cither, keeping the weeds down of course. C.C.H. (To Kuiti) writes: I have nn cseallonia hedge about four or Jive years old, and it was looking well up till about four months ago. .Most of the leaves have now died off, aud although new shoots are appearing a lot of the branches are quite dead. Would you advise me what 1 can do to avoid the. loss of the hedge? (2) 1 am troubled with club root in my garden, and I would be pleased if you would advise me as regards the same?— (1) From your description I should say it is due to borer. Cut away all dead and dying branches, and burn them. If there are signs of borer, any holes that are seen should have a little benzine squirted in and the holes plugged with clay. As n rule the hedge comes away again from the base. Spraying once or twice a year with lime sulphur. 1-100, with a teaspoouful of arsenate of lead powder added to each gallou of spray, will" keep down insects. Particular attention should be paid to the siems when spraying for borer. (2) Club root in cabbage is caused by a fungus which, once introduced into the soil, retains the power of affecting plants for live years or more. Consequently land that has art infected crop should not be used for cabbage or any of the cabbage family for several years. The use of naphthalene sprinkled on the soil after digging and worked in with the hoe is a good sterilising agent. It can lie done a day or so prior to planting. Lime is also useftil to check club root. Superphosphate on the other hand is said to aggravate the trouble. Before planting any cabbage, cauliflower, etc., dip the plants, roots and all, in a sterilising solution, planting immediately. This may check the growth of the seedlings, but they will soon start away again, but will sterilise the plants, and in a measure will help to give a clean crop. Free use of naphthalene or lime on affected ground, {lipping the plants in a sterilising medium, growing no member of the cabbage family on the affected ground for live years, and substituting superphosphate by other •manure, are the chief means of control. CLIMBINGr ROSES. When speaking of climbing roses we mean those belonging to the H.P., H.T., T. and Noisette classes. The strong thick growths of the previous year, or in fact many years before, will go on throwing out lateral shoots for many years. It is these laterals that you have ito (1(-«1 with, and if they arc left they will die out and no others will come in their place; but if they are cut out when they have finished their year's work, another lot will come in their places. Any new vigorous growths that have sprung up from the base- of the plant should be tied into place or made to take the place of an older growth that is becoming weaker from some cause or another. When tying in these new growths keep them as horizontal as possible. If they are left perpendicular very few of the lower buds will break, but bend them over horizontally and you will find that they shoot from nearly every eye. When climbers are well grown they give a great many more flowers than dwarf plants, but they should have a trellis or a fence for support.