PLANTING TREES.

Auckland Star, Volume LXIV, Issue 83, 8 April 1933, Page 6 (Supplement)

PLANTING TREES.

THE BENEFIT OF GOOD DRAINING. Planting itself is but a simple operation compared to the labour of placing tlie soil in condition to grow tlie trees successfully after tliey are planted. Tlie amount of preparation required will depend upon the quality of the ground and the treatment it has received previously. In stiff clay land, or land having a clay sub-soil, thorough drainage is necessary, as it is almost impossible for trees to thrive, no matter liow favourable the situation may be, unless there is a free outlet for surplus moisture, livery fruitgrower knows that a certain amount of moisture is necessary to keep the trees in a healthy condition, but this must not be in excess, and on no account must it be stagnant. The benefit of drainage lies not only in the removal of surplus moisture, but in the removal of injurious gases and in the increase of soil temperature. Soils, of course, vary bo much in character and in the amount of preparation required that no hard and fast rule can bo laid down. One thing, however, is certain, that the soil must be well drained. If by nature so much the better for the planter. Work done well at the outset may mean a little more outlay, but the result in the long run will pay, as the trees will thrive and crop better, while fruit of the finest quality may be looked for. It ia far better to plant a small area of trees or to defer planting for a season, rather than to plant in unprepared ground. If it is inconvenient to break up and work the whole of the land_ before planting, strips six feet to eight feet wide, where the rows of trees are to be planted could be broken up and prepared in readiness for planting. The remaining ground between the rows pouid be broken up after the trees are planted. After the soil is in proper order and before the time of planting a proper system of laying out to secure a certain amount of uniformity should be observed. The whole space intended to be planted should be marked out and the space selected for the different choosing the most suitable sites for the varieties to be planted.

CUTTINGS. If cuttings of antirrhinums are put iti bow they will be nicely rooted in a very short time, and fit to plant out where they are to bloom. This method of propagation is preferable to sowing seed, especially when plants to colour are required. Select for cuttings

the strong, 'short jottn^'side shoots, two or three'ihches long* Insert them into a prepared bed Of light soil. The soil should have a good quantity of sand and ieai, soil or well-rotted manure added. For rooting.such subjects nothing can beat a bed made, up two or six inches deep of nothing else than leaf soil and sand. The bed Gan be made in a cold frame s Or, if /that is not available, Use a box, filled with Compost so that when

the cuttings are in, the tops will not be more than an inch below the top of the box. This box must then be covered with glass, or procure some White calico and give it a coating of linseed oil, let it dry, and then use that; it will be found a good substitute for glass in many cases. If glass is used the cuttings must be shaded until ■» rooted. The cuttings will root outside if they can be kept watered and shaded until rooted, but, after they \ are rooted, full sun and air is needed.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS. To set off the flowers to the best advantage should be the aim of all cultivators. All decayed or diseased foliage should bo removed, stakes placed so as to support the principal stems, and the remainder looped neatly with raflia. There should not be an overabundance of stakes or bamboos, merely sufficient to keep the growths'in an upright position. Bamboos dyed or painted green are, best, being less conspicuous. ' When growing in pots, as soon as the surface- of the soil becomes matted with white roots, is the best time to give a topdressing. BELLADONNA LILIES. Belladonna lilies may be lifted now if the foliage has quite died down, or they may be left till next month. They should be thoroughly warmed in the sun, and then planted back in the ground again. The bulbs should be planted where they would get the full bonelit; of the winter sun. Winter is their resting time, -and the drier the bulbs are then the better. The soil should be a mixture of soil, leaf-soil and sand, and should not be too rich. Good drainage is most essential, and the subsoil should, therefore, be well broken up. The bulbs should be about one-third of their depth in the soil. .As soon as they show signs of renewing their growth, the bulbs should be well Watered, and should be given weak soot water once a week. ANNUALS. To obtain an early display of annuals, the best time to sow them is in autumn. The usual method is to sow in spring, and although under certain circumstances this is unavoidable and the results are very satisfactory, the method of autumn sowing gives much better results. Amongst varieties that do well sown now are. Gypsophila elegans, clarkias, gbdetias, poppies, mignonette, cornflowers, nigellas, annual larkspurs, erysimum, Vphacelia, scabiosa, lobelia, dianthtis; verbenas, #anslesj- calliopsis.

ILAYERtNG CARNATIONS. Many people when layering carnations put down one or two on each plant in preference to layering tlie whole of one plant, and leaving the others alone entirely. Why people will hang on to these old stages of plants that have had one or two layers taken off for the last year or two is hard to understand. The best, most businesS-like and the method followed by the man who has been doing the job for years, is to layer the whole of the plant, and what shoots are of no use for layering to cut off. In this way the results are more satisfactory, the layers rooting more quickly and having more vigour. A watering every evening will also help the layers especially if the weather is> very hot., . . ■ ■ ■ TO GROW GOOD CELERY. When the celery is ready for earthing up, take off all side shoots and bad leaves, and wrap a sheet of brown paper round them, not too tightly, and tie with a. piece of raffia, A sprinkling of salt between the plants will be helpful, as also will be a sprinkling of soot. "When putting the soil round tlie plants be careful not to let the soil get inside the paper collar.

CYCLAMEN. Cyclamen are included.among bulbous plants suitable for present planting. Few plants produce such a profusion of blooms and give such satisfactory results for the moderate amount of care bestowed on them, as these charming dwarf-growing perennials. In addition to their bright coloured blossoms the leaves are prettily marked, giving them an attractive appearance even before the flowers appear. Cyclamen - show to best advantage when grown in raised beds, cut out in the grass. The soil should be well worked, adding a fair amount of pulverised dry cowdung with some sharp brown coarse sand. Arrange the roots about fifteen inches apart, and as the roots proceed from the base of the fleshy conns, or tubers, do not insert them too deeply in the soil. Leave the tops" from which the leaves proceed slightly above the surface. They may also be planted near the edges of thu mixed borders. Fortunately Cyclamens arc not attacked by slugs; a point in their favour, especially during the winter and early spring. The value of cyclamen flowers for cutting is well known and much appreciated, as they are available when other flowers are very scarce.