POULTRY NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume LXIII, Issue 226, 23 September 1932, Page 12

POULTRY NOTES.

THE BROODY HEN

CARE OF GROWING CHICKS A CHICKEN PERCHED! (By ORPINGTON.)

While most large poultrymen hatch their chicks with incubators, there are still many farmers and smallholders who prefer to hatch theirs chicks under hens. First make certain that your hen is properly broody before moving her from her own nest, then move her to a prepared nest in a secluded place. The nest should be right on the earth, or, if indoors, a sod of damp earth should be placed underneath. A box about 14 inches square and 18 inches high is suitable. See that the corners are well filled with soil, and do not put in too much straw. Hay or pine needles make a better nest than straw. Set her on a few dummy eggs for at least three days until she is quite used to her new surroundings. Do not leave her to come off by herself, but make a habit of lifting her off regularly once a day. Slip a hand under her breast, making sure that no eggs are caught up between her legs, and gently remove her to a small coop, or run, to have a feed of grain. Watch and see that she cats, drinks, and relieves herself. The Ifttter is most important, as otherwise she may spoil the nest, dirtying the eggs. When replacing her, sec that she is quietly put on the eggs without struggling, else an egg may be broken. Should an egg break and the others become soiled, wash them in warm water before replacing her.

It is essential to keep your broody hen free from vermin, so she should be dusted with' insect powder a week after setting, and again a few days later. Brood} 7 liens with scaly legs will pass on the disease to their chickens, and so all your hens intended for broodies should be treated for this complaint before they go broody.

When the hatch is due, it is best to leave her well alone, but if she is very quiet you may lift her ever so gently from the froni an inch or two, but not enough to make her move her legs, and see how the hatch progresses. Remove any empty shells, less they telescope over unhatched ones. When all the chicks are hatched, or about the 22nd day after setting, the hen should be removed and given a feed well away from the sound of the chicks. The chicks themselves should then be moved to a clean coop, and the hen placed near them.

If possible, it is a good plan to sot two or three lions at once, and then, if a poor hatch results, one or two hens can take care of all the chicles. Most hens will manage 15 chicks quite well. You must study the temperament of your broody hen and tpeat her accordingly. The wild, noisy hen seldom makes a good broody. Pullets .are just as good sitters as old hens, and sometimes better, as they are not so fat and clumsy. Just grain is the best food while a hen is sitting, as it is better to keep the bowels firm.,,- Give each broody a fresh clean nest, and keep" her right away from any other fowls or sitters.

Care of Growing Chicks. The end of this month should see you with your main hatches out, and because you have 500 chicks under the brooders do not think that you will rear 250 pullets. A first-class "rearer" will produce about 40 per cent pullets under average conditions, and the following are a few of the points which require attention. Fresh ground for the young stock is essential, and the grass should be short and clean. Watch out for those sharp spring showers, which may catch the youngsters far from home and cause a severe chilling. Once they are allowed their freedom, it is unwise to confine the chicks, as they will only mope near the door, waiting to be let out again.

For the first six weeks chickens require about double the usual rations of protein, but as they grow this should be reduced to less than the usual 10 per cent, else they will be forced into maturity too soon. First build bone and framework, then body and feathers, and, lastly, feed to promote egg production.

Milk in some form is an ideal protein source, and also is a .preventitive for eoceidiosis. For those who cannot get a regular supply of skim milk curds, dried buttermilk is an excellent substitute.

- Cannibalism in intensively reared chicks is a vice, and takes a Jot of overcoming once the habit becomes popular. I think it 'i mainly caused from overcrowding and idleness. Watch them carefully when about three weeks old, removing , the cockerels as soon as possible. It is those bloodfilled quills at the base of the tail which attract attention first, but, once started, you will find chicks picked to death all over the brooder. In extreme eases' it is to darken the whole shed until they, have had time to forget the habit. Isolate any pecked chicks, rubbing the parts with grease. If you , have a severe attack, seek the advice of an experienced poultryman at once. ;

An ample supply of green feed will keep the chicks busy and healthy. Lettuce is ideal, and silver beet, cabbage and' cauliflower leaves, short lawn clippings and lucerne are good for them. • Tie the green leaves in bundles just off the floor, so .that the chicks have to jump to reach them.

The habit of feeding small lumps of meat will keep the chicks busy, and it is a treat to see them running- after each other, but this is not essential, as enough protein should be fed in the rations without extra meat. Breeders are feeding more and more on dry mashes. These are fed in open hoppers, and left before the chicks all the time. Dry bran appreciated in the same manner. Don't forget fresh clean water at all times, and a supply of fine grit. Perching Time. "A chicken perched is a chicken reared." This has become a slogan with ponltrymen, so try and have your chicks perching as early as possible. Light breeds will soon learn to perch, but heavy breeds need more assistance, and it is often necessary to visit the sheds at night and place them on the perches provided. These should be at least two inches wide, and placed low enough for the chicks to reach easily.