FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume LXI, Issue 229, 27 September 1930, Page 4 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES.

CHANGES IN THE MODE. FORMER COLOURS RETURN. (By A PARISIAN EXPERT.) The changes in the mode since the spring are not important enough for any one to make a fuss about, although there are, naturally, some now notes in the matter of detail. There is less unanimity as to hemline than most of the critics would lead one to believe, and although the most interesting frocks have hems that just miss the floor at all points, there arc some that swoop lower at both sides of the back than at any other point and a perceptible group —in evening dresses —flaunts fish-tail trains. However, these trains are being mostly liackcd .oil by Parisian eouturieres, for the dancing community. Tho Avaistline remains at normal, subnormal, and at Empire height, and is unfailingly accented by a narrow belt of

the fabric which usually closes by means of a striking and a colourful buckle. The necklines are usually a great deal higher in the front, and either form a moderate "U" behind or dip shamelessly in a low "V" to the waist. Intricate seaming appears on all gowns which do not belong to the net or tulle persuasion. These have trouble enough retaining their simplicity, in spite of being trimmed with ruffles, loosely appliqucd flowers and other extraneous decoration. The Colour Card. With regard to colour, beige is one of the leaders, as we expected, it is often combined with brown for country clothes. For both autumn and winter it will be mixed with green. Red is a '"goer," rather than a "comer." But 110 collection ignores it. Pink, in its pale shades is very good in the evening just now, and a pink chiffon dress trimmed with roses, and with shoes of the same colour, and perhaps a scarf of the same is a perfect get-up for a fair girl. There is a new cyclamen pink (new of coursc, in a relative sense), which is being used very much for evening wear. Black afternoon frocks often have cyclamen pink cuffs and pink-edged jabots. A new pink-orchid-mauve has made its appearance. But this is an individual sort of a colour, and not a "fashion." In several dressmaking houses, one finds a model in a colour like ink, sometimes slightly blue. It is strange, and becoming only to the very few. As to orange, it will probably hold j through the summer, but will not continue very strongly for autumn. Combinations of colour are in the highest favour, and sometimes combinations of the most unusual shades of colour are shown in one frock. Pale greens are good for both afternoon and evening in summer dresses. It is an undoubted fact that there is a prejudice against green with the exception of the pale shades, among the French, due to the old superstition that "if you wear green, you will have to wear black." Nevertheless, this is a colour that makes many people happy, though it is not one that everybody can wear successfully.

A Word About Sweaters. They are getting tired of being so obvious and are sinking into inconspicuousness. Tlio newest are plain coloured and in cotton and silk, instead of wool. When there are patterns, they are small and discreet. Modernistic splashes are kept to the domain of winter sports. With regard to the cardigan, this is too useful a garment to leave the mode entirely. For really sports wear, and especially for motor travel, it provides just what one needs for an extra wrap. J3ut the little jacket of the same or different material from the frock, has certainly taken first place away froi., the woven cardigan. We put these jackets over everything. There are charming ones of flowered chiffon, red, perhaps which are added to elaborate petal skirts of black chiffon for out-of-door dining.

Girlish Lines and Simple Styling for Brides. The sophisticated, dignified weddingdress, gives way this season to the more girlish style, simply styled and adorned. The basque gown with waistline at its natural position, its skirt ankle-length with a little train, is a favourite type. Delicate lace, of (lie Princess variety is often used for wide inserted bands, or festooned in tiers. Silk has been successfully revived as underlay for lace and for transport hem-borders; Ivory or dazzling white satin are most used, although" taffeta is looming as a rival. When taffeta is employed, the robe do style theme is usually its accompaniment, and very little trimming is used. 31 any wedding dresses are being made with detachable sleeves. This enables the bride to wear her wedding dress for evening wear, since the vogue for all-white for formal affairs is decidedly tin; thing. Little is seen this season of the fleshpink wedding gown. White, cream or ivory, is the invariable choice. Gowns made entirely of tulle in youthful bouffant effects, constitute a delightful new note.

Our Sketch. The illustration shows a straight coat in beige inaroeain made with the inevitable cape, which tops a frock of the same colour.