MOUNTAIN CRAFT.

Auckland Star, Volume LXI, Issue 162, 11 July 1930, Page 10

MOUNTAIN CRAFT.

STUDY OF CLIMBING ART. NEW GUILD IN - AUCKLAND. DIFFICULTIES OF ROCK ASCENTS. A meeting of the newly, formed Mountain Craft Guild, organised under the auspices of the Auckland branch of the Alpine Sports Club, was held last evening. The guild has been formed with the object of enabling club members to study the technicalities of alpine sports, the art and craft, of mountain climbing, and the theoretical aspects of the various activities of club members on climbing tours. A comprehensive series of talks are being arranged for the remainder of the year. At last night's meeting the subject of "Rock Climbing" was dealt with in an interesting lecturette by Mr. A. D. Jeffery. Tracing the devolopment of climbing in the alps, he made reference to the almost exclusive climbing of snow peaks in the early days of mountaineering. With the coming of English climbers to Switzerland, the gradual conquest of the snow peaks led to the sporting possibilities of rock climbing being recognised by mountaineers. With the development of rock climbing there came the gradual evolution of the technique of the sport. Mr. Jeffery showed the necessity for a knowledge of the rudiments of this. In describing the various features likely to be met with in rock climbs, he emphasised the importance of balance in climbing. This, above all, was the most necessary qualification of the would-be rock climber. The necessity for rhythm in movement, both individually and collectively, was also stressed. Hand and foot holds and the- use of the rope on "sound" and "unsound" rock were described, and the value of the ice axe was also mentioned. The latter part of the evening was taken up by a graphic account by Mrs. R. M. Algie, of an ascent of Mount Malte Brun, the classic rock peak of the Southern Alps. Mr. Algie briefly sketched the ascent of T. C. Fyfe, the first mountaineer to gain the summit of the mountain. This ascent took place on March 7, 1594. Describing her experience of the same climb in January, 1924* Mrs. Algie gave a vivid account ■ of the unusual climbing conditions met

with on the mountain in that year. The unusual amount of snow covering the rocks of the mountain tended to make the climb of more than usual interest, and the account of the ascent of the steep snow and rock ridges of the mountain gave the'audience an impression of the thrills and difficulties that beset mountaineering enthusiasts on this great rock climb. Mrs. • Algie emphasised the necessity of absolute fitness, good leadership, and good climbing technique.