Practical Gardening

Auckland Star, Volume LXI, Issue 39, 15 February 1930, Page 6 (Supplement)

Practical Gardening

PENSTEMONS. These "beautiful flowering plants can be raised from, seed sown at the present, but where there is a stock of a good strain it is advisable to propagate by cuttings. These can be inserted now, and will soon root and make good plants for putting out in the late autumn. The cuttings should be made from the young

side growths, about four inches long, and should be inserted in a cold frame in sandy soil. A box covered with a pane of glass makes a small frame. The glass should be shaded until the'fcuttings have rooted, when ventilation can be given, the shading removed, and a few days later the glass removed entirely.

THE DEVELOPMENT OE THE CARNATION.

Advance in horticulture is so slow, so gradual, that to the average gardener it is scarcely noticeable, yet certain flowers at certain periods have, as it were, .their revelation, and the old order of things becomes changed. New and "popular races of plants, such as the hybrid tea rose, become generally recognised, and in course of time almost entirely supplant the older kinds. This, in a measure, may be sad, but it is after all merely evolution. The changes which are* taking place in the carnation world to-day could not have taken place twenty years ago, because the perpetual type of carnation at that timo was' not sufficiently fixed or developed to have the influence it has to-day; even now the work is done with highly-developed seedlings, not . the named varieties in commerce. The old type of blush Sono de la Malmaison, made popular years ago by Empress Josephine, has become little more than a memory, and the glorious deep pink Princess of Wales, which Queen Alexandra made the flower of fashion, has also lost favour, simply because the newly-introduced perpetual carnations supplanted them. To-day, however, we have the perpetual Malmaison, reigning in its rightful place as the aristocrat of the carnation world. Its cultivation is much easier .and simpler than that of the old type. It is best grown under glass the entire year, with just a. little heat in winter, like the ordinary perpetual flowering carnation; in fact, the two live neighbourly together, requiring the same cultivation. Of per-petual-flowering carnations the presentday varieties are improvements, mainly because they grow much more' easily than the earlier varieties, also they are more productive. The greatest trouble with this delightful race of carnations is that people will persist in coddling them with too much artificial heat and insufficient ventilation, also they will add leafmould to tha potting soil, which the plants abhor. All the dianthus family, in fact, grow better without iti 1 The old type of border carnation retains its popularity, and, undoubtedly, the more modern varieties are' considerable im'-. Provements on thos© of fifteen to twenty years ago. The National Carnation Society are encouraging more and,-inore self-coloured garden varieties,/'rather than purely, exhibition varieties, hence the more recent kindq, are easier to cultivate, and will flourish in any sunny garden, The new hardy perennial border carnation, which, like tlie Allwoodii the R.H.S. does not recognise, is a crossbred race, and, like >&bstf?-crossbreds, has almost an excess of vigour. The formation of the flowers may not be quite so perfect as the old-fashioned border kinds, but all have smooth-edged petals with a wide range of colours. They grow freely in any sunny garden- Like all carnations, they abhor leaf mould, but love a little old mortar rubble or lime added to the soil. They may be planted at almost any time during the year, but autumn is best. Cuttings root readily in %md or layers may be taken. The young plants should be stopped at the sixth leaf and will then form largo bushy plants. The homely unassuming little pink was once one of the most popular of garden flowers. ' Innumerable raisers <}f new varieties competed with each other at the various shows, and they had elaborate rules as to the formation and marking of the flowers. The result of this artificial classification and specialising lifted it out of its usefulness as a hardy garden flower and it lost popularity. _ These elaborate laced exhibition varieties fell out of cultivation and the pink, with the exception of the white Mrs. Sinkins, itself an outcast, alone retained the popularity of its kind.., To-day, however, we have many new. jorms of the pink, some hybrids, some not.,; : Allwoodii, which are the result of a cross between the pink and tlie perpetual carnation, resemble the pinks inhabit and are very vigorous and free-flowering. No variety, of pink which is not sweetly scented, lacks a robust constitution, perfectly hardy and. freeflowering, is of no value whatever. -■ A sunny position, with the addition of lime or lime rubble, should make any soil grow good pinks.

taking chrysanthemum BUDS.

During this month the grower of chrysanthemums will be busy taking the buds of his favourite plants. Securing the buds would be a better term to use, perhaps, because the buds that are taken t» grow into blooms are not taken, but preserved. -The top bud is the one that is required, but if left to its own - resources, it will come to nothing. Other buds that grow into leafy shoots spring from the axils of the leaves below the bloom bud, and would soon stop;>its growth. These side buds should 'therefore be removed as soon as the finger and thumb can lay hold of them, without injury to the flower bud on the top. The accompanying illustration will make this clear, though the side buds are not yet sufficiently advanced for safe removal* •. •

WE3SD (St Heller's Bay) asks: Would you kindly give me the necessary inrormation re tobacco culture and curing/— Tliis is too large a subject for this column and will need a series of articles to cover the ground thoroughly and to make it of practical use. I will give some articles in due course dealing with the matter. AMATEUR (Ponsonby), writes: I am enclosing a strawberry leaf for examination, and wish to know if it is diseased and if there is & remedy?— The leaf was not in with the letter, but I expect the trouble is leaf blotch or spot. Mow or cut off the leaves and burn, them. This may seem drastic, but it will not hurt the plants, in fact the old method was to mow off the foliage, up the weeds and mulching, let it dry and burn it on the bed. The plants will come away with the first rain, with fresh, clean foliage. ® As soon as young foliage appears' spray it with Bordeaux or lime sulphur. ' , I BULBOUS (Avondale) asks for information re treatment ot ground, manure to use, and time to plant daffodils, anemones, Tingitana iris, tulips. Would cow manure dug in a few weeks before planting be sufficient? Do you recommend ■raised beds for 'bulb growing?— The ground should be deeply dug and if possible trench it two or three feet deep. No manure is required. . A little well rotted cow -manure dug in might do no harm, but it is questionable how much good it does. The time to plant ■ is as soon as possible after lifting, This applies t? most bulbs, but particularly to tulips, which do not keep well out of the ground. Daffodils can be planted between February and May, and even later, but it is not' to the benefit of the bulbs. Anemones ■ can be planted from .February to July..: Tingitana iris should be planted as .soon as the bulbs begin to show signs of growth, usually about April or May. Tulips in February or March. Raised beds are best for bulbs, because, as-.they flower when the weather is usually very wet, raised beds provide better drainage. Of course the type of .-soil will enhance or lower the value of .raised beds. Bulbs planted on the flat do' equally well if the drainage, is good," but with raised beds it is more easy to get about amongst them and the positions are more clearly defined. SHELTER (Avondale) asks: When to put iu cuttings of Olearia Foster!, Abelia floriburida,. Waibelia, and when, to sow Wattle and Pittosporum seed?— Cuttings of these should be put in about March. Take short growths about three inches long. These if pulled off so as -to have a heel of older wood will root readily. Straight cuttings made from the top four inches of 4;he shoots will also root. Make up a bed of very sandy soil in a shady position, and after firming the soil put in the cuttings fairly close together. Once they are rooted and commence to grow they can be transplanted. The bed should be watered prior to the cuttings being inserted. The bed should be shaded- and the soil kept moist but not wet. The secret is to keep the moisture both in the soil and the air surrounding the tops sufficiently moist to prevent wilting, but not so as to cause mildew or rot By heavy shading and slight dewing with water, this can be accomplished, but once the rooting process has taken place, which is seen by the fresh growth being rnadS, the conditions must be more natural. By Waibelia I expect you mean Weigelia; or rather Diervilla, which is fhe correct name. Wattle seed is best sown in September or October. Pittosporum seed as soon as it is taken from the pods, which is about March. If sown then it will germinate in a few days, but if kept till spring it will not. germinate till the next winter.

PROPAGATING HELIOTROPES.

Heliotropes are the better for a little bottom.heat to root them quickly, but those who cannot'-command such, should start to propagate them now in order to get the benefit of 'the warm weather. Take'cuttings about two and a half "to three inches long, cut them below a joint and remove lower leaves. If any of them bears a truss of flowers, it must be removed, but be careful not to damage the

side growth which will take the lead and assist the cutting to root. Use a sandy light compost. The cuttings can be planted in pots or boxes, but which ever it is they must be well drained. Press the*soil firmly and insert the cuttings;' give a good watering. Shade the cuttings during the day and if they can be covered with glass or stood in a cold frame where the atmosphere can be more; under control * they will root more readily.

CHARCOAL.

This substance is not largely used in horticulture now-a-days. At one time it was in more frequent use, but it has been pushed out by' other more modern concoctions that have a "mystic" title and probably a "mystic" origin. 'It was at one time largely used in potting palms, orchids and other greenhouse plants that needed a "clean" soil and which could not be frequently potted. The charcoal absorbs ammonia and other gases and tends to keep a soil "sweet." For this reason, a few pieces of charcoal are very valuable as an admixture lin rotting soils. Its absorbent and antiseptic qualities make it very useful when potting bulbs, both in ordinary soil or fibre composts. In handling bulbs such as lilies or others that are inclined to decay, it will be found that charcoal dust and sulphur in equal quantities acts as an antiseptic and healing agent, in fact, this is one of the best dressings for any exposed or decaying tissue in any plant, and a little should always be kept ready mixed. Charcoal dust, mixed with seeds which may be slightly damp or inclined to mould, will absorb the dampness and keep the seeds sound. When potting ferns or other plants that are to stand in rooms, always put a handful • of charcoal directly over the drainage crocks; this will help to neutralise the effect of the plant standing in a saucer of water and prevent the soil souring.

OUTDOOR VINES.

Vines outdoors require attention at this stage, to remove or stop all superfluous growths; but if this has been regularly done frojn the commencement of growth, very little cutting is necessary how, but many side growths may be showing, and these should be stopped to divert the energy of the vines into the swelling and maturing of the berries. Keep a good look-out for the first appearance of mildew, and check it at once by means of flowers of sulphur. Even the berries should be dusted if there is the least speck of mildew. Give the vines copious supplies of water and liquid manure once a week. A fertiliser may be used with advantage, if well watered in, and the surface soil hoed the next day.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Correspondents will greatly oblige by observing- the following rules In sending questions for publication In these columns:— t—Letters should be In not later than Tuesday to be answered the same week —addressed to Garden Editor, "Star" Office, Auckland. 2—Write on one side or the paper, ana make all communications as concise as possible. 3 —Flowers, etc., sent for naming, must be sent separately, and, tf possible, packed In a tin or wooden box—cardboard boxes are very liable to be broken In transit and the contents damaged. 4 —The rull name and address or the sender must always be sent,- but a nom de plume or initial may be given for publication.

D.M. (Christchurch) sends a Geranium bloom, for identification ?—Raspail double. The Latin name is Pelargonium zonale. WALNUT (Manukau) writes: I have a walnut tree, it is very large and bore four nuts last year, which fell off before maturity...- This year there are about half a dozen. The lea.ves do not look healthy, I enclose one for examination. Does, the tree' need spraying, feeding or pruning? There is another tree put in at the same time, but not one-third the size of this.—The leaf was not In -the letter, but from your cescrlption the ' disease is walnut leaf blotch, or Anthracnose. It is much worse some seasons ■ than others, and if severo will defoliate the tree. The remedy is gathering and burning all fallen leaves, as it is on the dead leaves tnat the winter or resting 't stage of the fungus exists. In spring, as soon as the young leaves appear, the tree should be sprayed with Bordeaux. As regards pruning the walnut does not need ? regular pruning, and the old saying.: A dog, a wife, and a walnut tree; ''the more you beat them the better they . be; has a lot of truth in it. The nuts # grow on the tips of the short growths, • and in- .gathering long poles were used to thresh the trees; this threshing broke off the tips of these shoots and caused lateral buds to grow, until the walnut tree was a mass of short stumpy growths which carried good crops. As a rule a walnut tree, like good wine, needs age before it becomes profitable; whilst young, and when it is making a lot of growth, it does not crop well. There J are' varieties that it is claimed fruit at a young stage, but "sometimes they do; and sometimes they don't." Feeding would not do much good', as the tree nlakes a long tap root which goes deep down. No . doubt In time the tree will become more profitable, but- in the meantime you can control the disease by gathering and burning the dead lea.ves and spraying in spring.

J.S. (Onehunga) writes: Your information on "Common Gardening Terms Explained" was very interesting and appreciated. Please "inform me how many kerosene tins of water would you give to a row of beans 12 feet in length? also the quantity of liquid 'cow manure? —Thanks for your appreciation of this column; it helps considerably to know that one's efforts are of interest and value, to his readers. It is difficult to say exactly because different soils vary in their water-holding capacity, but I should say in your case that four kerosene tins of water twice a week, and two tins of liquid cow manure twice a week would do well. This is allowing a kerosene tin not to be full to the top, but would contain, roughly, about three gallons. SELF-SOWN (Devonport), writes —I am sending some plums for identification. The tree is a seedling about five years old and this is the third year of fruiting. It has not been transplanted and has . grown rapidly. Fruit trees we have bought have not been successful,_ whilst this plum and several self-sown peaches are doing remarkably well?— The seedling is a variety somewhat similar to Evan's Early. It is apparently of Japanese parentage, and is worth keeping for Its cropping qualities. It is not, unusual for seedlings to grow better than "worked" trees, but they often fail to crop or the fruit is inferior. BULBS (Royal Oat) writes—l am expecting some gladioli, tulips and hyacinths from Holland :n a few days. Please let me lcnoW when I should plant them?— Plant the bulbs as soon as possible. Plant a little deeper than usual and if possible 1 shade the ground, pine branches would do during the hot weather so as to keep the bulbs as cool as possible. They will commence to grow as soon as they are in the soil and keeping the ground moist and shaded will produce a condition more suited to their usual environment.

the bulb

The season has again arrived when attention should be directed to the planting of suitable collections of hardy flowering bulbs.. The many purposes for which these charming and indispensable subjects may be employed for the adornment of the garden during spring months are well known.. The majority of bulbs may be lifted and stored away and'kept moderately dry during the resting period, but if not replanted at the proper time they are likely to wither and become exhausted, thereby causing many failures. The roots of.some bulbs are always more or less in action and they must, be treated accordingly m order, to make as prolonged a display as possible. The planting should not be done at one time, but at intervals commencing with the first batch eaily this month; another in a fortnight or three Weeks' time and so on as long as the bulbs are in condition. Although our climate is not so suitable for some of the early spring favourites of the Old Country, such as crocuses, snowdrops,, and others that are seen to best advantage amidst frost and snow, we are more than compensated by the innumerable species requiring a milder climate, and that can be grown here with the greatest ease and perfection. The following kinds are all suitable for present planting: or daffodils, are so popular that it is needless to say anything about them, unless to. remind intending planters of the many varieties they are now offered by the different vendors. Next in importance is the anemone, or wildflower. Few flowers can compare with it for brilliancy of colour. Double and single flowered varieties may be had in an endless variety of colours. They are equally suitable for beds, edgings, and masses. Any good garden soil that has been properly manured will suit them. Plant the tubers from four to six inches apart and from two to two and a half inches deep. The St. Brigid is the favourite anemone, the small tubers about the size of peas, give the best results. Ranunculi are associated with anemones; they are extremely showy and very, floriferous. In planting, draw drills two inches : deep and about six inches apart. Sprinkle a layer of sand along the bottom of the drills, press the tubers- firmly into the soil, claws downwards, keeping the crown two inches under the surface, and cover with fine earth. Anemones and ranunculi like a little well-decomposed cow manure and coarse sand worked into the ground before planting.. Spanish iris start early into growth, consequently they should be planted at once. They are easily grown and the flowers are gorgeously beautiful. Arrange the bulbs in clumps, planting two inches deep and two inches apart. ' Ixias, babianas, sparaxis and tritomas are all exceedingly attractive and easily grown. They should be planted in clumps, placing the bulbs at about a depth of two inches and the same distance apart, The Ixia is a slender, graceful, growing plant. Sparaxias are of compact dwarf habit, producing sprays of richly coloured beautiful flowers.' Babianas range in colour from blue to the richest, crimson magenta and are set off by dark green hairy foliage. Tritomas resemble the sparaxias in the habit of growth, but the prevailing colours differ, and as they flower later, form an important succession. Tulips are extremely hardy and produce a gorgeous effect when grouped in flower beds or borders, with the double and single flowered varieties, mixed together, planting the bulbs six ,inches apart and. two inches deep, covering' them with fine earth. Hyacinth, wiien well grdwn, are amongst the most beautiful of all early bulbs. Unfortunately, they are seldom grown to perfection. Freesias are so easily grown that they are liable to be neglected and they show to be?t advantage as border plants.Draw shallow drills near the edges of I the beds or walks, and scatter the bulbs evenly along, covering them two inches deep. Lachenalias are very beautiful dwarf b,ulbs with spotted leaves and bright coloured flowers or spikes. Nerines are also bright coloured species. Cyclamen may also be included amongst the above. By planting a selection of the preceding . now and another in three weeks' time, a succession of bloom may be had coverings a .longer season. In preparing soil for: bulbs a light dressing of lime, is ; always beneficial.

CUTTINGS.

v During- the next few : weeks Is a good time to insert cuttings of any bedding plants, and the following may be helpful. At A is shown an ordinary geranium cutting, consisting of a growing top or side shoot, cut just below a joint, and with tlje lower leaf removed. B■is . another cutting from the 6ame plant, and is formed of a piece of stem, with three or more joints without a growing point; this is called an internode cutting. -It should be "made" as

HOW TO PREPARE CUTTINGS FOR PLANTING. shown, but the little ears or stipules at E should be removed, as they sometimes retain the damp, and cause decay. If all gaes well, this cutting will break into growth from the eyes at the base of the leaf stalk. A carnation cutting appears at C. The stem has been cut just below a joint, two or three of the lower leaves pulled off, and the tops cut off level, after which it is ready for insertion. At D is shown a fuchsia cuttin® also prepared for insertion. °

FOWL MANURE.

The droppings from the fowls in fowl' houses form very valuable manure for general use in the garden. Here and there a poultry keeper knows this and takes proper care of the droppings from day to day; but the great majority do not realise how valuable this manure is. Pigeon manure is of even greater value, possessing more than double the quantity of nitrogen, about double that of phosphates and potash respectively. For gross-growing vegetables one pound per square yard ia a suitable quantity to use. Enormous crops of tomatoes and potatoes can be grown as a result; of judicious applications. For tomatoes Boz per square yard is sufficient, prior to planting and mixed with loam for surface dressings. One ounce per 10-inch pot and mixed with fibrous loam, is- a right quantity for topdressing tomatoes and chrysanthemums—the latter after the buds are taken. But the manure should be kept quite dry and spread out in a thin layer in a cool, airy shed. Before using it should b.e broken up as finely as possible. If it is placed in a heap outside and allowed to get saturated, the fermentation is rapid' and more than half its manurial properties wasted.