ANTIRRHINUMS.

Auckland Star, Volume LX, Issue 224, 21 September 1929, Page 6 (Supplement)

ANTIRRHINUMS.

The antirrhinum, is very popular as a bedding plant and its secret lies in the fact that it will give a good varied display for a modest outlay of cash and labour. The plants once they commence blooming will, if the dead flowers are removed so as to prevent seed forming, give a good display for several months. Height too is varied and there are the Tom Thumb sorts, which grow less than a foot high to the tall sorts which will run to three or four feet in height. Few plants are as easy to grow as these. All they ask for is an open position in full sun, a good soil rich in lime and firm planting. The antirrhinum is more than an ordinary lime loving plant. It, in company with the wallflower, will exist on the top of a brick wall with its roots actually living amongst the mortar and. moss. Firm planting is also essential and what would he considered, hard ground is just what the antirrhinum likes. One of the Avorst evils that- troubles the plant is a bacterial disease which causes the plants to collapse and has been termed "blackleg," the portion of the stem at the ground level turning quite black. No doubt this is largely due to the modern method of planting in soft freshly dug soil containing in many cases abundance of fresh manure, and also to a lack of lime. Usually lime is applied like we put salt on our dinner, and with many plants this is ample, but with the antirrhinum the best way is to add lime rubble almost in the same proportion as one would add cow manure. By this treatment there would be an apparent lack of vigour, hut it can be compensated for by applications of liquid manure when the flower's spikes begin to run up. When growing the plants for garden decoration the centres should be pinched out so as to obtain a plant sending up three or four spikes of average size. When grown for exhibition the central spike should be retained and the lateral ones removed. In the case of having to apply slaked lime, lime rubble being unobtainable, the best way is to sprinkle it on top of the soil. It will soon work into the soil. This dressing should be repeated once or twice during the.season. Antirrhinums can be raised from seed sown now or plants raised from earlier sowing can be purchased. The seed should be sown in a pot of well drained sandy soil, covered with a piece of glass, and shaded from the eun until the seedlings are up. Pricking out into other pots or boxes must be done as the plants get large enough until eventually planted out. The antirrhinum is quite hardy and the only protection needed by the seed or seedling is. from heavy rains or undue drying by sun or wind.

WORK IN THE FRUIT GARDEN. With the incoming of September the planting out of deciduous trees usually comes to an end, but in late districts they may istill be got in with a fair chance of success. Citrus fruits, however, do well planted now, and especially on soils that are on the cold or wet side. Actually, however, it is not right to advise the planting of citrus fruits unless there is shelter. The trees are evergreen, and will not stand undue exposure or cold wet soils. Late planted trees will receive great benefit from mulching. Long strawy manure, is best, but almost any moisture holding material or that prevents rapid evaporation will do. The staking of newly planted trees is advantageous, but not often done perhaps. The trees should not be allowed to sway so that ,a cavity is formed round the collar of the tree, and allowing water in excess to get to the roots. In some positions staking is unnecessary, but where the trees are exposed to high winds it is best to stake them when planted. Loquats, passion fruit, guavas, vines, can be planted now. These, like citfus fruits, need shelter if they are to do much good. EARI.Y SUMMER BEANS. An early supply of this vegetable is invariably appreciated and will probably bo more welcome than later ones. While there is always danger to sowings made out of doors earlier'than the last week in September, there is no reason why seed should not be sown in boxes in rich soil, placed in a cold frame at the present time. They can be grown in the frame until they are nine or more inches high, then placed in a warm position in the garden, and thus will be several weeks ahead of the first sowings outside. When opportunity offers prepare trenches for runners, and it js advisable to have them ready well in advance. Take out the soil to a depth of 18in to 2ft; in the bottom place a layer of fresh manure, followed by a layer of soil, then a layer of old manure or decayed leaves, garden refuse, etc., finishing off with 3in of soil, in which the beans will be sown or planted. CUTTING SEED POTATOES. The most suitable size for planting whole are about as large as a lien's egg. Any below the standard should not be used if it can be avoided. There is one exception, however, if it is desired to increase the stock of a certain variety for "seed" purposes for the next season, then tubers down to the size of a marble may be used. Since they produce tubers

of a size suitable for planting they can be put in the .soil later in the season than is usual. Large seed potatoes should be cut. The correct method is shown herewith, leaving one strong shoot to each half. A good many defer this cutting process till the time of planting, whereas it should be done several days in advance to allow. the cut surface to dry up.