BOYS' OWN COLUMN.

Auckland Star, Volume LX, Issue 40, 16 February 1929, Page 2 (Supplement)

BOYS' OWN COLUMN.

THRILLS ON A SURF BOARD, BATTLING WITH BREAKERS ON THE WEST COAST. Dear Boys, I wonder how many of you spent your Christmas holidays anywhere near a surf beach? All along the West Coast there are wonderful beaches where surfing provides one of the most thrilling sports imaginable. Last week-end, defying the somewhat inclement weather, two of us tic 3iped through to Te Henga, that glorious ocean beach, nine miles from Waitakere station. It was under a threatening sky that we pitched our hike tent, but morning brought a clear sky and hot sun. Down on the beach -with the tide almost full the breakers presented an almost irresistible appeal, and it was not long before we had found a couple of good surf boards and battled our way through the combers toward the outer line of the surf. Although we were both accustomed to this class of sport, I shall always thrill over that first long drive ashore, as with the breaking of the wave we were lifted to its crest to be borne beachwards at an incredible speed, to the accompaniment of swirling water and flying spray. Right to the edge of the dry sand were we carried from over 250 yards seaward. Tired of straight chutes we would glide sideways along the crest, as it carried us onward, first to the left and then to the right, as with a slight movement we altered the angle of the board to shoct in the other direction. Naturally the longer rides are only for the more experienced surfers, for towards the outer line of breakers there is a strong undertow, which very easily sweeps one off pne's feet. But new chums can derive immense fun _■"«. by riding on the crest of the smaller jr\j J JjL \*J\waves in shore and so gain confidence C\lf)AQsC and experience for the battle with the 0 bigger combers further out.