PROPAGATION OF ROSES.

Auckland Star, Volume LX, Issue 40, 16 February 1929, Page 6 (Supplement)

PROPAGATION OF ROSES.

Although raising new varieties of roses

is a slow process, the propagation of existiiiy varieties is a very easy matter. The rose appears to differ from the average plant, in that it can be indefinitely propagated without deterioration or "throwing back" of the variety. Some of our best and oldest roses have maintained their vigour intact although they have being propagated by budding or cutting for many years. Budding is the most general method of vegetative propagation practised, especially amongst fruit trees and roses. Although it may appear at first eight a difficult process, it is really quite simple and consists of transferring a dormant bud from one plant to another, the success of the process consisting in seeing that the growing tissue of the bud and the stock arc brought into actual contact. Practically every kind of rose can be propagated in this manner. The stocks should be planted in good soil, in nursery beds, which can be easily attended to; or, if only a few are required, they may be placed in the positions the roses are to occupy. When growth commences in the spring, all buds, except two or three at the top, should be rubbed off. Growth should be encouraged during spring and summer by hoeing and weeding; and the actual budding may take place about the middle of summer. Successful budding depends considerably on the state of the atmosphere at the time, for the flow of sap is greatly affected hy this condition. Very dry weather is unsuitable, as the sap is then sluggish, but in calm, moist weather the operation is more reliable. The object in budding is to cause as perfect a junction as pos-

sible between the sap of the stock and the sap of the bud, and as the sap flows under the bark, but over the central wood of the stem, it is obvious that this union may be brought about by bringing the wood of one in contact with the inside of the bark of the other. In all budding processes this principle is followed, though the way it is carried out varies slightly. By far the most commonly used, and the simplest, is known as the "shield" or "T" budding. A shoot of the rose it is desired to propagate should be cut off, and this should have good plump dormant buds at the base of the leaves. The leaves themselves are cut off. leaving about half the petiole. A budding knife having a flat handle which is used for lifting the bark when necessary should be used at the point where it is desired to insert the bud. which will be at the top of a standard or close to the ground of a bush 1 ->se. A horizontal cut is made through the bark as evenly as possible. From the centre of this cut make a vertical cut downwards, ; bout twice the length of the former. Now, remove the bud from the shoot in the following manner. About half an inch below the bud insert a knife, and cut into the wood in a direction sloping upwards. When a point opposite the bud is reached, the knife is curved back again to the surface, so that a piece of bark about an inch long, with a bud in the centre is removed. There will be a small piece of wood adhering. Some remove this with the point of a knife, but this is not essential, and may cause damage to the core of the bud. So long as it is thin, and does not cover much of the bark, it is better to leave it. The bud is now ready for insertion, and to effect this, lift the bark on either side of incision in the stock, commencing at the corners adjoining the cross-cut. The handle oi the knife is useful for this, though seme use the point and fingernails. Be careful that the inner bark which adheres to the wood is not damaged, and avoid pressing upon it. The lower point of the shield containing the bud is now inserted between the raised corners and slipped down until the bud is well below the cross-cut. As equal care must be taken not to damage the inside of the bark the shield should be pulled outwards, and slide on the inside of the bark until it is in position. When the bud is in the desired place, the top portion of the shield should be cut off, to come flush with the cross-cut, and the bud should then be pressed gently into contact with the stock. Once in position, care must be taken not to shift it, but proceed at once to tie it with

raffia. Commence binding »t tlu i~ torn and having made- „ as will reach the bud, nuke L high enough to come just over iT ?* tinue binding until the „«,'?*■ covered, fastening off by h end under the last turn. VtfiS?,> inserted at this time mav Ugh v blld « growth until the following usually possible to tell witwVT* * h whether the bud has taken brill J"?* of the attached petiole; but if ♦v"* mains adhering and wither* th. n ' is usually negative. If the rnJI « resnlt to have take! the ties 6 hou?f ffP» eiied a little to aUow for the Wrl«V*" of the stem. "Pansion DON'T WASTE SOOT. Soot is a valuable manure for the garden. It contains, in addition to Z carbon, some ammonia and small qtttn tities of phosphates, potash and Um, Soot water will discourage insert. sn ,v as slugs and snails. It feeds the nW because of the nitrogen in it, and st the same time purifies the soil, learin.it fresh and sweet. Soot can be 33 with June for use as a slugieide, !*?£ caretul when top-dressing with this mb ture as tender plants may be injured" as the mixture is very caustic.