FARTHEST NORTH.

Auckland Star, Volume LIX, Issue 77, 31 March 1928, Page 6 (Supplement)

FARTHEST NORTH.

BY BEACH AND HILL BEAUTIFUL SPIRITS' BAT. CHARM OF PANDORA. (By A.W.)

A few years ago there were not many places in this country more inaccessible than Spirits' Bay, that spot of historic and legendary interest near the North Cape, close to which the picturesque Pandora camp is situated. Under the attractions of an adequate road with ideal camping facilities at journey's end, what was once an arduous journey for horsea is becoming a popular objective for motorists

Those who are not car owners can make the journey by the available means of transport. The quickest mode of travel is by train to Otiria Junction, thence by service car the 90 odd miles to Kaitaia, which is reached the same evening. This route passes through some very beautiful and historic country, particularly where the road runs by the old missionary settlements of the Bay of Islands, where patriarchal English trees of their planting give to the smooth pastures something of t.he settled dignity of an English park. Following the road past the headwaters of the Hokianga and down to the rich flats round the Mangamuka, one cornea to the rampart of ranges which presents a problem in determining the route of the railway now under construction, the advance works of which are almost up to the barrier. Through a pass between the peaks the motor road rises along the upper Mangamuka Gorge amidst scenery of great natural beauty, with the northern bush characteristics of abundant nikau palms, pungas of remarkable height, and tree trunks hidden by the clustering white rata vines.

Nature's Roadway. From Kaitaia the road to Spirits' Bay runs for over 50 miles along the Ninety Mile Beach. This stretch of sand is as smooth and clean as a concrete highway, and despite a few pitfalls for the unwary, it is a favourite natural speedway for motorists. Low sandhills, tufted with toi-toi, hem it on the right, the "long wash of Australasian seas" on the left. Big black-backed galls hunt the evasive toheroa, flocks of godwits, terns, and sand-larks take the place of the little grey gulU of more frequented Loaches.

The turn-off from the beach is made at Te Paki Creek, the wide, sandy bed of the stream, threaded with little runlets of fresh water, forming the roadway until one come 9 to the gat« where the way leads over the grassy hills to Te Paki station. This, with its fine homestead, built In the solid style of our more spacious days, is the most northerly station in New Zealand. From there on to Spirits' Bay the country has a sombre grandeur, dark, bracken-covered hills rising in long sweeps to peaks of 1000 feet in height. Along the lower levels the old bridle track has been widened and formed Into a fine-weather road for motors, surprisingly good when one remembers the rugged path where horses found the footing precarious a iew vears ago. Magnificent views of the imposing northern coast are obtained on the way" Cape Maria stretches out to Lhc west, a high, sandy promontory with its lighthouse gleaming white in the sun. Further north is Cape Reinga, legendhaunted and awe-inspiring, the Maori gate of departure to the spirit world. It is a craggy and precipitous hill, ending in forbidding black rocks from which juts out the.ancient pohutukawa. storm-battered and wofk-worn, which affords the reluctantly departing spirits their last hand-hold to earth. Sheltered Shores.

From Te Reinga the coast curves in a wide sweep, sand alternating with seadashed crags, until it comes to tiie cosy white bay at Pandora, with its leaping cascade of fresh water forming a background to the camp site. Eaupo huts nestle under the spreading trees, and rustic bridges span the cheerful stream. Peal winter never finds the sheltered valley, tomatoes grow all the year round, and flowers and plants thrive in almost tropic luxuriance. The beach is in possession of a pair of half-tame red bills, shepherding a family of voung with raucous curies at all intruders. Stilt 3 with magpi 3 colouring and ludicrously ong, fragile legs, which appear to col'apse under them liko straws, perform miracles of balancing. Godwits are already gathering in ie«pon?e to the mysterious instinct which warns them of their approaching departure on their long autumn flight to Siberian shores.

To the right of Pandora named after the warship whir.h first surveyed this northern coast) lies ihe long, shining, scimitar-like curve of Spirits' Bay, fl; sh' ing ivory-white in the sunlight, the texture of its sand is so exquisite that, stored in glass jars, it forms a prized ornament in several northern homes. Imagine delicately tinted pearls, cream and mauve and p.ilast rose, broken into t!ie_ smallest pieces, but retaining all their lustre and translucence; spread the dazzling mixture in n wide swathe, border it with a sea of deepest blue, lac d with the froth of breakers, and throw it into relief against a dark strctch of rock, and it will form a mind picture of the bay which is the traditional gathering place of departed souls before their final leap-off from the lleinga. Sinister reminders of "old unhappy faroff things and battles long ago" obtrui. themselves in the frequent finds of haifcalcined bones and other grisly re ics. Caves of whitening skeletons around the coast and great burial mounds on the tops of neighbouring mountains are a melancholy indication of the fierce tribal warfare which raged round this coveted northlrtnd and decimated its once abunf iri population.