Practical Gardening

Auckland Star, Volume LIX, Issue 71, 24 March 1928, Page 6 (Supplement)

Practical Gardening

Correspondent* will greatly oDiige Dj observing the following rale* lo sending questions for publication in tbese columns:— I—Letters should be In not later than Tuesday to be answered the same weekaddressed to Garden Editor, "Star" Office, Auckland. 2—Write on one side of tbe paper, and make all communications as concise as possible. ' 3~Flowers, etc.. sent for naming most be sent separately, and, If possible, packed in a tiD or wooden box—cardboard boxes are very liable to be broken In transit and the conteuts damaged. 4—The full name and address or tbe sender must always be sent, but a com d« plume or initial may be given for publication.

TO CORRESPONDENTS. i APPLES (Albany) sends some specimens for Identification. — U) I'ri«,» of Australia, (2) Statesman, (3) Adam's l'earmaiu, (4) specimen decayed. URANIA (St. Helier's) asks the best method to obtain young trees of Jacaranda mimosaefolia? —They are raised from seeds, but your best means would be to purchase a few ready grown plants from a nurseryman. C.J. (Epsom) writes: Can you inform me the reason of the Tomatoes (specimens enclased cracking ? Is there any cure for ItV Quite a lot of m.v Tomatoes, especially the late planted ones, are .'.ike the sample.—The reason is the rain following the dry spell; it causes a f udden flow of sap, and the skins, being Ury and firm from the drought, crack. It is quite common at this time of the year, but this season It h:is been mote severe, and large quantities of fruit have suffered. A.B. (Blrkdale) writes: I have two Gum trees that have outgrown their usefulness. When is the best time to cut them back? —The present is a good time, but 9 If not done during the next few weeks whilst the weather is good it would be best left till about August. The Eucalyptus are not good subjects for cutting back, usually they get very "staghorned," and ugly when once they are lopped. AMATEUR (Onehunga) asks: (1) Which is the right month to put Tomato plants in glasshouse for eariy crop? (2) What is the best variety of grape to grow in glasshouse, when to plant, and how many vines could be put in a giasonouse 2-itt x iioft?— (1> 'sow the seed now, and plant in June or July. (2) Black Hamburg, i'lant in May or June. You could have four vines at tirst. Later on, when'they have grown, you could cut cut two of them. J.G. (Auckland) writes: 1 gave my flower garden a liberal dressing of White Island No. 1. Since then it has rained, and I stfould be glad If you can inform me whether the rain will destroy the beueiicial cleaning of the soil I am expecting ironi the above product?—'the product wiil do its work all right; the rain will not destroy its usefulness. On the other hand, it will make it more efficient by washing it into the soil. WISTARIA (Napier) sends a specimen of Wistaria, and says it is quite ail right at the commencement ot' the season, and opens with lovely young green leaves, then goes off, tendrils wither, and growth seems to stop. Is the position too hot, or la It an insect? —It is due to unsuitable soil or position in some way. There is no appearance of insects. l'robably a mulching with manure in the spring, and an application of a good fertiliser, would help the plant. The position may be too dry, especially if the soil is light. The M istaria likes a medium soil. I'IKUKIMU (Cambridge) sends a specimen of C. Maerocarpa, and says the trees are about ten years old, and are all dying from the tops downward without any apparent reason. Would it be advisable to cut them out and burn them?—ln certain localities the Macrocarpa dies out when a few years old. I think, however that your trees are suffering from the effects of the past drought. Whether It would be possible to save them now I a £d I expect the ultimate result will be that the trees will liave to be cut out. C. Lawsoniana stands much better but does not make such a tall tree. ' HOSK LEAF (Onehunga) writes: Last week you told me in answer to my questions that my Rose cuttings had Black Spot, and to spray with lime sulphur solution early in the season. Is it too late to spray now?—lt is not too late to spray now, and it will keep any new foliage clean. What -was meant by spraying early is to spray before the disease: Is apparent, and save the defoliation of the plants by anticipating the disease. Gather up any fallen leaves and burn them, and also treat the ground with White Island product No. X. By spraying now you will also check the disease another season. Some varieties of Roses, particularly the new Verrettiana type, are very susceptible to Black Spot. ELLERSLIE writes: Have just dug over a patch of ground where potatoes were last, year. The soil is a bit loose, but generally the ground is a heavy clay. I would like to fill the section with Violets and. Bulbs. Will you advise me: (I) What manure required for the Violets? (2) Distance apart and when to plant? 3) The best kind for market? (4) Do these need shelter? (5) The treatment to follow? (6) Are the Bulbs better planted in groups or in single rows, and what msnure?—(l) Cow or stable manure Is best, but failing that use bonedust. (2) Put the plants about eight Inches apart in the rows. The rowu should be two feet apart so as to allow room to walk along between the rows for picking. The best time to plant is August or September, but you could plant now; the only thing Is your blooms will be late, but the plants would carry over till next season. (3) Princess of Wales and California. (4) No. Only a sheltered patch would give more flowers during the cold weather. "(5) Keep the bed clean by hoeing, and remove all runners as they show. If the runners are allowed to grow the bed soon becomes a tangled mass, and the blooms are second-rate. During the summer the plants must be kept free of Red Spider aal other pests by one or two sprayings of ltme sulphur. (6) Plant in rows and use only bonedust or basic fOag*

TAKING CHRYSANTHEMUM BUDS. An important work now among Chrysanthemums is that of "bud taking." To distinguish between a "crown bud" and a "terminal" it will suffice to say that the latter is surrounded by a cluster of flower buds, whilst the former is surrounded with small leaves and shoots.

To take a crown bud the growths surrounding it are removed, as are all others which issue later. Remove one or two shoots daily until the work is completed, aa the development of the bud is not impaired by this gradual removal of the surplus buds, etc. If terminal flowers are desired the crown bud is removed and the best of the lateral growths allowed to grow on and produce flowers. When the "terminal" bud appears it is surronnded by numerous other buds and some of these must be removed to give the remaining blooms a chance to develop. VIOLAS FROM CUTTINGS. From early August until the middle of September is a suitable period for propagating Violas by means of Blips or cuttings, as then the plants are usually well furnished with plenty of young growths. These may be pulled out and cut off beneath a joint. If they come away with a few roots attached all the better, jas their propagation is more certain. Cut-

URANIA (St. Heller's) asks for recipes for making the following wines In small : lots : Tomato, Fig, Passion Fruit wine?— Can any of our readers oblige?—(Ed.) F.G.Y. (Waitoa) send some i-pecimens for identification.—Apples, (1) Edward Lippiatt, (2) Emperor Alexander, <3) Boston Russet, (4) Diadem, (5) Statesman, (tt) l.agoon, (7) Mother, (8) Five Crown Pippin, (9) I'rlde of Australia, (10) Grannie Smith, (11) Horn, (12) Peach, Sea Eagle, (13) Phiiadelphus, (14) Cupressus Lawfconiana. TEST (Avondale) writes: Enclosed art the bulbs of a plant that has run all over my garden. Cun you give me a remedy that will get rid of it?—lt is Oxalis, and once in It takes a lot of getting out. The best way to clear It out is to pen the fowls on the ground. Dig over the ground, and the fowls will scratch out and cat the small bulbs. The only other way iu by hoeing and digging out. O.K. (Shannon) writes: I have some three-year-old Uooseberry trees that 1 desire to move. When is the best time to do It? , Should 1 manure them, and what kind should 1 use?— Move the plants about May. The Gooseberry likes a rich soil. The best manure to use is cow, pig or horse manure, but failing tliut boiiedust and superphosphate can be used. The manure siioulU be worked into the soil now so as to be available us plant food when the plants are transplanted in May. M.O.R. (Avondale) asks: (1) Which Pumpkiu seeds are the best to save tor sowing, the ones ut the ilower end or those at the fetem end? (2) Rhododendrons are very sick from the dry weatuer ; is fowl manure good for them, or should I get some other?—(l) The best and plumpest seeds are usually ut the tlower end. 1 do not know if tneir cropping qualities are aHected by the position from which they are taken. (2) The best manure for ithododendrons is a mulching of cow or stable manure. If this is not available use bonedust. A little fowl manure would be quite all right, but they would need something besides. MANGA (Mount Albert) writes: I have some Cauliflower, Cabbage and Cress plants in boxes. They grew well till about an inch hi«h, but are uow withering and breaking off at the ground leveL No spray or manure lias been used. What artiticial manure <!o you recommeiKl for Lettuce?— The trouble is a fungus known as "damping off." it is a disease attacking seedlings, and is particularly bad amongst Crucifera-.\ which includes the Cabbage, Cress and similar plants. Dust the seedlings with powdered hulph.ir, i nd us soon as possible get them transplanted. Once started iu a box of seedlings it will take the lot unless checked. Shade, dampness and cold draughts will encourage the disease. The best cure Is to feet the seedlings transplanted at once. Do not use the same soil again for seedlings. In future, treat the soil with fertiliser a month before sowing. E.A.R. (Auckland) writes: Enclosed are two samples of soil from a section which it is proposed to utilise for commercial flowergrowing. Anemones, Delphiniums, and Iceland Poppies are amongst the things it Is proposed to plant. (1) Do you think they would do well In that soil? (2) Can you recommend any other flowers that have a good sale and can be planted now? (3) Will Sweet Peas do well; if so, what kinds should be planted? (4) Will Carnations thrive? (5) What manure or fertiliser would benefit my soil?—(1) Yes. (2) almost any flower that can be cut and will stand for a time after cutting can be sold. For present planting Daffodils and Narcissi, Ranunculi, Gaillardias, Core-; opsis, Seabious, and Statlce are good subjects. (8) Yes. The best varieties for sale are whites, pinks, crimsons, lavenders ; that is, distinct, well-defined col-, ours. The early-flowering varieties could be sown provided the section Is sheltered from cold wind. (4) Yes. (5) I should advise the use of stable manure, but, failing that, use bonedust and basic slag, with & little i.ltrate of soda wben plants are growing. Dress the soil before planting or sowing with White Island Product; this will clean up any insects or disease which may be lurking in the soil. US FELLERS (Devonport) asks re Buffalo Grass for lawns. I have made Inquiries and have been told It is not a success; vet I have seen lawns of it. that, to the casual eye. seem all right. Would you Kindly state your opinion, method of planting, time to plant and time it takest to grow ? I have been recommended Buffalo Grass and Clover. Is this mixture good?— Under certain condition, and in some places, where other grasses will not survive Buffalo Grass is all fight, but; it does not make a lawn In any way equal to the usual lawn grass mixtures. It is very coarse and grows rampant in the hottest weather. Unless kept closely mown it sets so that the ordinary lawni mower will not touch it. It is not grown from seed, hut from lants which are best planted in spring, about September i or October. Once started it covers very quickly, and If the pieces are put In a lew inches apart, will make a lawn In a few i weeks. As to Buffalo Grass and Clover i as a mixture, I think that after a few i seasons there would be nc Clover, the i Buffalo Grass would smother all other plants. I do not see how you could mix i the two unless you sowed the Clover row, 1 and then planted the Buffalo Grass in spring.

CUTTING EVERLASTINGS. To have Helichrysums, the so-called everlasting daisies, in perfection foi vases in winter, it should be remembered that it is no use waiting until the blooms fully open, as they are of no value for keeping when that stage ha*, been reached. The best time to gathei the blossoms is in the half-opened state, cutting them on a sunny day and spreading them out on a tray to dry before wiring them. It is better to wire them straight away, as in drying the eterns become brittle and break off. THE VENETIAN SUMACH. There is no other hardy shrub which can for one moment be confounded with Rhus cotinus, at least during the present season of the year, when the inflorescence borne in the shape of dense wig-like masses, is at its best. In this state the upper part of the bush appears to be enveloped in a rudddy cloud, hence the popular names of -Fire Bush and Smoke Bush, which have been applied to it. The comparatively small ovate leaves of this rhus stamp it as quite distinct from those species with large pinnate foliage. There is a variety (pendula) of drooping habit, and another (atropurpurea) in which the leaves are darker tinted, and the inflorescences of a deeper colour than those of the type. PLANTING ROCK PLANTS. This is a very good time for putting out rock plants, and if planted now they get established before winter. When planting trailing plants give them a high enough ledge 11 hang over, so that they will cover the face of the stone. The height of the ledge will depend on the

ting 3 rooted early develop into sturdy plants. If large quantities are required a good plan is to make up a bed of light, firm soil in a shad/ position and insert the cuttings in drills two inches apart. A layer of sand first spread over the surface is of benefit. If only a fewcuttings are to be inserted shallow boxes will serve the purpose. LOW-TRAINED FRUIT TREES. It is safe to assert that the average garden—and many a private orchard— contains far more wood and foliage belonging to fruit trees than it can reasonably accommodate. The standard tree is rightly voted unfit for a garden of limited space, or where other subjects are also expected to flourish, and the bush form is advocated instead; but, unfortunately, the bush fruit tree invariably proves quite unsuitable for the intended purpose, because it is allowed free scope, and soon overshadows everything in ita neighbourhood. The bush, indeed, becomes a veritable thicket, crushing out light and air from its own system and the surrounding garden ground. It is, of course, a question of training. Probably the tree is left to the tender mercies of those whose idea of pruning fruit trees coincides with that of the man who trims hedges. Surely six or eight stout, healthy branches, studded with fruit and spurs or buds, are quite enough for the greediest individual, and a reasonable the energies of a bush fruit; but usually there are many more branches, and not always of a fruitbearing character. The planting of the cordon, fan-shaped, or espalier trees, however, would obviate such overcrowding with surplus wood. Espapliers, especially, may be planted alongside a pathway, taking up no more room, or making no more shade than would tall-growing Brussels sproutg or broad bean plants, and the little trees can be kept to any reasonable size. It is true these espalier trees would not be producers of quantity, but quality in size and richness would amply compensate for numbers. Possibilities of fruitgrowing under this system are very great, even a small space affording a substantial fruit-producing ground. Apples, especially, are excellent subjects for espalier treatment. In gardens where it is desired to grow vegetables or flowers in conjunction with fruit trees—a proceeding almost impossible -if standard or bush forms are used—the cordon or fan-trained tree comes into its own; and considering the vast amount of "breastwood" a bush fruit makes, the cordon, with little or; none, proves a boon in many a garden. Here, again, quality takes the place of quantity, but the larger number of trees that can be accommodated outweighs the comparatively small yield of the individual tree. Fruit trees of small stature, especially these horizontally trained forms, should be freely employed in the kitchen garden, where they act as a protection to crops in many instances, without detracting seriously from the su'pply of light, air, or nourishment. BRUNVIGEA AND BELLADONNAS. Belladonna Lilies and Brunvigea are now flowering profusely, and are greatly for cutting for vases, etc. Both varieties throw up their flower stems and open up their blossoms before the leaves make their appearance. The Belladonaa are admirably adapted for naturalising in the grass and under trees and in clumps near the edge of the drive, and growing on dry banks. The Jacobean lily (Amaryllis formosissima) is also in full flower, and is very distinct and showy. Some of the crimsons which belong and the gorgeously beautiful large flowered hybrid Hippeastrums are conspicuous with 'V- richly coloured blossoms.

BLUEBELLS. The Bluebell of the English woods is one of the favourite flowers of spring. It is equally at home.in the garden and wherever there is a shady corner or a bare place where little else will grow, clumps of these should be planted. They are quite inexpensive, and once planted increase rapidly. They are catalogued |as Scilla nutans. In addition to the blue form, there is a white one, Scilla nutans alba. Besides S. nutans there are other species of the Bluebell which are just as accommodating in habit and are worthy a place in the spring garden. S. hispanica, the Spanish Squill (syn. S. campanulata) has five nodding bells, more expanded than the English Bluebell, taller, and usually with more on a spike. Of this there are several varieties, dark and pale blue, blush pink and white. S. patula is yet another form of the Bluebell, intermediate between the other two. The flowers are very similar, but the foliage is greyish green in colour. The variety Excelsior is a great improvement, being taller and bearing pretty bells of pale lavender striped with blue. WAISTCOAT-POCKET FARMING In Lord Aberdeen's book of stories entitled, "Tell Me Another," there is one bearing on the subject of artificial m. nures. "There had been," he says, "a good deal of discussion about artificial manures, some of which had been greatly advertised as likely to be of enormous value to farmers. Mr. Hoard (a former Governor of the State of Winconsin) declared that he had heard of a Scottish landed proprietor who said to his farm steward, 'The time is coming, John, when I shall be able to carry in one pocket of my waistcoat what will fertilize a whole acre of land.' 'Deed, sir, and I'm thinking maybe ye'll be able to carry the crop in t'ither t »ouch.'" Here once more extremes meet the ardent enthusiast and the hardened sceptic. At present the latter hold the field, for the results obtained so far have not been sufficiently striking to carry conviction. There may, jof course, be a change in the future, I but those who think that the labour of cultivation will ever be superseded by waistcoat-pocket methods are doomed to disappointment. LACHENALIAS. Lachenalias should not be overlooked when the planting of spring flowering bulbs is considered. Now is a good time for planting, but as they commence to make roots early no time should be lost in getting them into the soil. In the open border or rockery they are best planted in clumps or in a double row, allowing the bulbs about 4in from each other and about 2in deep. They are also very nice for pot culture and as window or verandah plants they are excellent. They should be planted about Bix in a sin pot, and proportionately more in a larger size. They need plenty of drainage, and should have a nice friable \ compost. During the growing season ; they must have abundance of water;

TREES AND SHRUBS FOR COLOUR EFFECT. Ornamental Trees and Shrubs are probably seen at their beat at the present season of the year, and it is a good time to note some of the more beautiful kinds for planting at the proper season. When tastefully grouped and arranged few things are more effective, and, with the numerous kinds to choose from, there need be no lack of variety in the garden. When planting, all evidence of formality must be avoided, or the pleasing and natural effect which is so marked in these gardens would be lost. Undulating ground lends itself to the most effective arrangement, but in all districts much can be done to improve the general effect by forming mounds here and there, and thus creating an undulating surface, which gives a more pleasing effect. The Magnolias are very showy, and of these Magnolia stellata, with its scented star-like flowers, is well adapted for small groups in the shrubbery or rock garden. M. Soulangeana, with purple tinted flowers; M. grandiflora, an evergreen species, with sweet white blooms produced in March; and M. conspicua are highly meritorious. The Guelder Rose (Viburnum opulus sterile) and V. plicatum are both attractive; while V. macrocephalum has very large heads of white flowers. Ceanothus azureus is a charming shrub, which displays a mass of pale blue flowers during the summer, and C. Veitchianus is a lovely variety of a darker shade flowering in December. The common Mock Orange (Philadelphus coronarius) is a lovely object when in bloom; while P. microphyllus is a charming species from Colorado, which flowers rather later. Many of the Berberis are exceedingly showy during the spring, and of these a more graceful object than Berberis stenophylla, with its numerous bright yellow flowers, could hardly be imagined. B. Darwini, B. vulgaris, B. diaphana, B. buxifolia, B. japonica, and B. aquifolium are all worthy of attention. In the autumn tie crimson foliage of Cotoneaster Thunbcrgi is very showy. When given a sheltered situation Choisya ternata flowers very freely, and presents a charming appearance in the rock garden. Pyrus japonica, P. floribunda, and P. Maulei are delightful shrubs when in blossom during the spring. The Flowering Currants, Ribes sanguineum and R. speciosum, from California, are very beautiful. Some of the Lilacs are very showy, and of these Charles X. and Madame Lemoine, a double white variety, are two of the best. Prunus triloba is lovely during September and October, with its double rosy-pink blossoms. The Japanese Maples are handsome trees, and of these Acer paltnatum sanguineum, A. palmaturn dissectum, and A. purpureum are especially good. Acer negundo variegatum is also very attractive. There are several varieties of oaks, which make handsome trees, notably Quercus coccinea, with its large scarlet leaves, and Q. concordia, with soft yellowtinted? foliage, Prunus Pissardi, Fagus aylvatiea purpurea, and f! cuprea are very attractive, and are very effective in a large clump associated with Populus canadensis nova aurea and Ligustrum ovalifolium aureum. Cornus sanguinea and Salix canadensis are very effective when planted in masses, especially in close proximity to ornamental water; their coloured stems form beautiful objects during autumn and winter. Rosa rubrifolia, Sambucus aurea lacniata, Vitis vinefera' Purpurea and V. Coignetiae are quickgrowing climbers, with richly coloured leafage. The latter is especially ornamental when seen scrambling over the tops of large trees. Liquidamber styra* ciflua, the sweet gum of the United States, is very effective in autumn on account of its bright scarlet foliage. It succeeds best in a moist loamy soil. Forsythia suspensa is a lovely shrub that should not be omitted. Its bright yellow blossoms are produced in profusion during winter on the wood of the previous season's growth.

in fact, almost need to be kept at saturation point. One method of grow-, ing them is in wire baskets, the bulbs being placed all round, so that when in flower the whole basket resembles a floral ball. When growing in baskets use plenty of moss; pack the compost as tight as possible in the basket. They must never be allowed to get dry, and should be hung for several minutes daily in a bucket of water to soak. The foliage of some varieties is beautifully marked, and as it naturally lays on the soil or clings, when grown in a basket, the flowers appear as if growing out of a ball of foliage. STANDING PLANTS OUTSIDE. It is often necessary to stand plants in pots outside. It may be during the summer, while they make their growth, and later on brought into the greenhouse, or it can be after they have finished flowering and stood outside to perfect their growth. In any case it is not advisable to put the pots directly on the soil, because worms get in and choke up the