TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Auckland Star, Volume LVIII, Issue 89, 16 April 1927, Page 25

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

L.H. — A specimen was received, but there was no letter or address attached —Ed. XOVICK (Tukapuna) tent four apples for identification.—(l) Rome RciufT. (2) Cox's Orange I'ippin. (3| Pride of Australia, (4) Aromatic Russet. KLO«S (Mt Altiert) asks the following queries:—(1) Description of a flower for naming? (-J) Cannas have grown vigorously, but have not flowered well. What Is the best manure to nse? Should the suckers be cut away and plants restricled to one stem? (H) fan Anemone and Ranunculi seed be sown now to produce bulbs for lifting In December? (4) At present I am liberally using lime and manuring at Intervals with a 50-50 mixture of bonedust and super. Can I use vegetable nsh with benefit to the soil? Can you suggest better manures to use? (5) Will cuttings from Antirrhinums give as good results as plants from seed? (G) Can 1 safely shift a "Piwv" Willow at present; It Is eight feet high and has considerable roots?—(]) Send a specimen and I will probably be nblc to give the name. 1 cannot undertake to name plants from description only. (2) The faunas have not done too well awing to the cold, wet season. I do not think it is a case of more manure. Kather what is required Is more warmth. The clumps should be lifted and replanted every spring. Healthy rhizomes with one or two growths give the best results. When the clumps get too large they do not bloom so well as when kept to a smaller slie. I do not advocate the cutting away of suckers, because these suckers should each produce a flowering stem. The old flowering stems should be cut away snd the young suckers encouraged. (,"i) Yes. (4) Do not use too much lime, and I should propose you use more bonedust and less super. A little sulphate of potash, about four ounces to a square yard, once a year or so. would be beneficial. Of course a lot depends on what you are growing; but for vegetables blood and bone is fairly quick acting and gives good results. Super is very good, but too much is inclined to make the ground pasty; it only supplies phosphates, while bonedust nnd blood and bone supply phosphates and nitrogen. (">) Yes! (C) Dig round the tree, preserving as many of the roots as possible, until you get the ball down to a movable size; even then it will be a% fairly heavy Job when it comes to get the tree out I repare the new site nnd have the hole ready to receive the tree before you commence to move it. LEARNER (Mt. Albert) writes: I have a lawn, volcanic soil, nnd rat-tail grass is getting into It. What is the best means of eradication? Can I use a powder or must I dig them out?— The onlv rlTectlve means of eradication is by digging them out. This is a good time to do the work, while the ground is wet. Whore you pull or dig out the grass, fill up the hole with a handful of good soil and scatter a pinch of se"ed on it; treading the patch firm with the feet or patting with the back of a spade will do R. J. (Ponsonby), writes.—Thanks for Advice re Peach trees; have tnken them out and found it to be due to root rot What would you advise me to put on the soil. I have plenty of fowl manure and wood nsh. Are they any good for fruit trees or vegetable garden? When putting lime to Cabbage should It be put on, as well as round them? Would spray Ing Plum trees now help to keep Brown Rot away?— Fowl manure nnd wood ash are both valuable manures for fruit trees and vegetables. Do not use too much wood nsh on the surface, because, with clay soils, it is inclined to make them slimy. Of course, this only applies when it is used to excess. Fowl manure Is particularly good for Cabbages. Rhubarb, and suchlike gross growers, but do not use much on Peas or Beans. The lime wiil not hurt the Cabbage if sprinkled overhead, and It will help to keep down slugs. I presume that is why you are using lime? Spraying Plum trees now will, in a way, help to control Brown Rot. but to effectually control the disease spray as soon an fruit is set and repeat the sprayings every three weeks until the fruit commences to colour. F.H.P. (Epsom).— (1) I am sending you n sample of Lemons from a large tree. Will you kindly tell me how to prevent the trouble. Should the tree be pruned cverv year? (2) The leaves of my anemones nre turning yellow. What treatment should I give them? (3) The leaves of a Lilac free are turning brown. Is Ir due to blight. Should the shoots from the roots be cut off? (4) What manure would you recommend for a second-year Strawberry bod?— Gather and use or destroy the diseased fruit. It does not materlallv affect the inside o£ the fruit, tut spoils the

npp".irancc and prevent* proper develop, ment. If the fruits are left U is o source of n fort lon. To provor.t the trouble you will have to spray. The bom sprav to use is : l.lmo Sulphur solution, one parr water seventy-five parts. Give a spraving about every month, excepting when the tree Is In full flower. (21 1 cannot exnetly mt why the leaves of nncmoa.* are turning yellow; It mav be due to Rusr spray with the mixture roommended for the Lomons : It may hove the desired effect. <: !( The leaves of i|,e Lilac may bo turning brown owing to the soa ß on of ibo year. The Lilac Is deciduotis and b.s.-s its leaves In winter The i!T. m .'"" ~ h ^r oo«!t«!t *«">«>«« l- cut off. HI Blood and Bo„e is ,),e t^- t mnnure in use. Give an application about every ls U sef W """" OU UalU ,hc '"»'• TCLIPS (Folldlng».-n» Ought Tulip* ,o remain In ground or be lifted. drlT and replanted? ,_•, When mav I plac , ,he Ua rh. nnd bow | atP can , ,',,.,„, , bc ,;[ n -ri . haV ° " *"<•"--*"« of bloom *- V„7 Fll no need to lift Tulips every jenr. < ommerclally. and under certain , ~r r , n\ \ ",.' S """•-">• 'o lift ever? J ear When dealing with small lots It Is an advantage to lift and store the bulbs, ("-cause there Is less risk of losing them" The so-called Dutch Tulip, do bost when lifted every year, but the "Cottage- nnd Darwin sections can be left for two or even more years without lifting As regards planting Tulips for succession" I do not think you would have much success. 1,.„ can plant different varieties, early, medium, and late flowering, but the lullp Is not n good forcing subject, nnd once the time comes for planting, it is best in the ground Planting can commence In .January, and continue till the end of Mar.li nnd the beginning of April, but were the same variety planted In January and April. 1 doubt If there would be much difference In their flowering dates although the first planted would probablv give the better blooms, because of the longer season of growth. 1 should recommend you to keep manure awnv from ihem. The ground should be In good heart and well worked, aad if manure is absolutely necessary use a little bonedust. M (Green Lane) sends a fruit of an unknown I umpkin for identification ?— It Is quite a new variety so far as 1 know, and I should say It is a cross between a Pie Melon and a Yog* table Marrow <if |t« economic value I cannot say. but I do not think It is of much value except as a curiosity. R-J.S. (Grey Lynn).—(l) Sends an Apple for identification? (2) What are the spots on the fruit, and also some of the voung shoots wither and die, nnd upon investigation I find a smnll worm. What is the cause and remedy ?—(1 > Will give name next week. (2J The spots arc due to a touch of scab. The cause of the shoots dying seems to be a boring Insect. SpravIng with arsenate of lead will control the Insects.

T. 11.8. (Grey Lynn) asks If pure burnt bone nbout the size of ordinary peas would be good to put in the garden for the growing of Antirrhinums, I'ansies. and Sweet Teas'*—The bone would do all right for the garden. Of course It would not be the equal of ordinary boncdust. but it could be used in larger quantities. BEX BOLT (Onehunga) sends specimens of Apples for inspection?— The trouble Is Apple scab. Spraying with Bordeaux or lime sulphur solution during the reason is the best preventive. Spraying should commence as soon as the fruit is set. and continued at about three weeks" intervals until the autumn. H.R.H. (Onehungn') writes: My ground Is full of wlreworm. or at least they call them wireworms. Everything put into the ground gets covered. The Insect Is much like a centipede, nbout three-quarters of an inch long, the thickness of thread, and all legs?— The Insects are not wireworms. but what are known as mlllercdes. They are chiefly found in decaying vegetable matter. Try using lime, scatter it on top of the soil previous to digging. Any of the soil fumigants sold would also help to clear them out. Liquid sheep dip. one part; water, twenty-five parts: and the solution applied to the ground a day or so previous to putting in seed or plasms would also help to get rid of the insects. J.P. (Otahuhu) asks the following questions: (1) Will Parma Violets, like those sold in English markets, grow in Auckland, and what is the method of cultivation? rji Is poultry manure useful for flowers and Strawberries? When planting Delphiniums Jnd Stocks I dug deep, and put some at the bottom, covering with soil before planting. The soil is heavy, and I should like to know If this manure would make the land sour during winter? (.J) (."an you siig!T<>st probable cause of failure in cool frame of Stork. Anemone, and Itnnunrulus seed. I prepared the soil carefullv; many of the tweeds germinated, and then disappeared. Would you recommend dustins with Tobacco powder] l-ij I have

heaped tin crcf-n leaves?. prasM-s. weed*, i • to. f«.r.o..tnp<.»t beap. 1»<. 1 j u »t 1« t J bin rot ami uw wh«-n rend*, or rnu-t I nn\ earth. bon«-dust. or su!pb-ur with It > - di Yc« Tho fiUnSi should t.<- put in «ithc-r in sprirc «r aiilumi, Tt>f crotjnd should (.- w<-!l urorl<«! and well manured l»:iriur the rammer *ll rnnaT* should t«<ct a»av. a, }..-« TJ.«- l»-t way t . uw foi«I manure i« mhT miv«-d in -watf-r »» n li<;uld. or apply it a» a top d rendu;: PJaoinp it at the l««iiura of th<- trrncJi when d Serine -a ill n..t csow t*,e crotjnd to vur: l.ut it i« out of i!,.- ni< ..f tt.«. plant*, and as it is vt rv- *«Hjl>l»-. all tl,<C.xxln- *■* w<-.::d laic I'-alr-d a».ir t«-for«-the roots reached it. <::< I; tr.cr i«- <iu<- !•• !riM"d!i. If the plant* j|i|*.iml and then ' dinar pearcd. it «a» not due !<• t«d soeu I *ml must I* due to »<.nn<- rit<ni:l cbm-. Try dustins with T'-hacco dtisi. Ufve plenty of ventilation. I»o not over water. ! dust underneath and around th<- l«>v» o» | l-ots witb lin.e. or better still, use- a soil disinfectant, suojj as vapovrtte. <i 1/ 1 the heap s'ard for thr<f or 1- ur month*, when it ran t«- used. A d rearing of lime, salt, and sulphur nattered the heap umHimalli when adding the Oiffrtrtil layer-, nil! b.jj. t<. k.-rp d"»u inwvis. VIOLETS. Violets are now making a lot of growth, and in most gardens will be allowed to run almost wild. This is a mistake for the Violet like* and pa} s for attention. The l»ed should receive a good hoeing and cleaning, and the runners should he cut off so that aii the strength can he thrown in the central crown. The beds should then If given a dose o. manure tis:ng one ounce of sulphate of ammonia and four ounce* of superphosphate, to two square yard-. This should be scattered on the soil beneath the plants, being careful to let none fall on the foliage. The hoe should be put over it again to stir in the manure. Occasionally during the season. say about every six weeks, give half an ounce of sulphate of ammonia to the square yard, always being careful to hoc it in. MUSHROOM CULTURE IN SHEDS, ETC. The first and most important point is to properly prepare the manure that is o cohijkisc the bed: and some cultivators, especially in their first attempt at mushroom growing, arc far too particular, and think that nothing but pure horse dung is suitable. This is a mistake, and in fact a bed composed of horse droppings alone is very diflictiit to get into proj»cr condition owing in the violence of the fermentation, and the consequent liability of over-heating. There is nothing better than stable manure for making a Mushroom bed. and it is only necessary to shake out just the longest of the strawy litter. leaving as much as possible of the short straw with the manure. When a sufficient quantity has been shaken out it shou'd be wheeled under cover, in a cool shed or some other such place where it can bs kept from getting wet in rainy weather, and it should be turned, or what is better, thrown out to cool, two or three times a week. It is of the greatest importance not to allow the manure to get white and dry before turning, nor too wet. as a we' bed will never produce a good crop of mushrooms if it produces anything at all. When ihe fermentation has subsided, and the material is moderately moist, and of a dght brown colour, it may be considered in good condition and ready for making up into a bed. This will usually be from two to three weeks from the time of shaking out. according to the state of the weather. When it is very hot and dry it takes much longer to get the manure sufficiently cool than when the Weather is cooler. In making up the bed. care should be taken U tread or beat the manure thoroughly as the work proceeds, till the bed i' about a fool in thickness; this will usually be quite deep enough fot inside beds, if the manure is in the right condition and ha* not been left too long before making up. A thermometer should be inserted and as soon as the temperature has risen am: declined to S3 deg. the l»ed is fit t. spawn. The greatest care is needed not to spawn at too high a temperature, oi the vitality of the spawn will b< destroyed, whilst too low a tempera' lure will not produce the vigour never* ary fur an abundant crop. (.real can should be taken to obtain good spawn for if this is not good in quality tbt time and labour expended in the preparation of the bed will be thrown away When obtained, if it is not all used at once it should be stored in a cool, drv, place; on no account should it i>e kept where it is moist and warm or it will be spoilt. In spawning the l«ed. the cakes should be btoken into pieces about the size of small apples or hen eggs, and inserted in the bed with a garden trowel, alxmt an inch below the surface, and about nine inches each way. After spawning, the bed should be covered about an inch deep with loam or garden soil, free from manure, and which has been passed through a half-inch seive. The soil should l>e fairly moist, and be patted down firmly with -ic back of a spade. Should the tern jK-ralure of the bed fall Ik-lovv TOdeg., a covering of long stable litter ought to be placed to a depth of three or four inches. It is always desirable to keep the bed at a temperature of TO to 75deg., for the first three weeks after spawning by the a:d of the litter. After that time it is be-t removed, or the spawn from the bed is apt to l>e drawn into the litter, besides affording a haibour for that troublesome enemy, woodlice. If properly managed Mushrooms ought to appear in about s.\ weeks from the time of spawning, if the soil was moist, as it should hav,been when placed on the bed, no waui will be needed till the mushrooms appear. And then only tepid rani water should be supplied, sufficient to moisten the soil without entering the manure. Plenty of atmospheric moisture is required, and thi* can be produced by damping floors, walls and other drv surfaces, taking care to keep it off the bed. SAVING TOMATO SEED. Amateurs are often puzzled to know how to save a little seed from som< favourite Tomato and to get rid of the fleshy covering so that the seed wil keep until wanted. Select the Tomatr fruits as perfect as possible, and the: if they are not absolutely dead ripe put them in a window or glass house tint: they are thoroughly ripe. Cut the frui in halves from side to side and ecooi out the seeds with as little pulp a, t*„ sible and leave it standing in a en;, o something for a few davs until i begins to ferment. Usually" about fo i or five .lays j 3 ) on;r cnoU jCi, ,] J( ,„ j„„., water into the cup and stir the seed v; well. Pour the water awav and a.! more, repeating the stirring. A few mwill be poured away with the wau each time, but that does not matter r.i they would be useless in any case. Th< good seeds always sink to the bottom 1 ? n S'Ste? I°. cleajj pour tht

| wirt-'.o 3 • through s r: <• rr.;.-!;n or similar mali-i.il »-\ Hj'H- re 1 .( sco.i i::to a ball and i .'• . •'■<n repeat the wa'rt. AftrT do,rip l'.,is two or thioe tirn.» t.'-e seed- u ii! lie qune clean, v !■■ n t' - < r.,-, ).,. ",, i; , n ; , warm sunny i la.-e :,. <i-v. \ft<r thi-y have drici sor;- r: . v st ,k toi».-:hrr a little. but a rub w;.'.; the hands Will -' -■ -; .i -■•■■ th< :: . an ! '.":,. _\ can be lagged ',::• ~; 1 pul a\ .-. ■ i : ';.< it sra- | son , ns. . I | LABELLING ROSES. Now n a vcrr gocwl tirr.e to look over the laW]« of Ho. -. ]t n.ay be fancy. but a collection of I'ov* correcliy named i« Worth three tines an unnamed collection. The i,n7:.c on a label and fctlacbetl may r.ak< i.o material |di 2« rei.e-e to a Ib.-e. tb, I , „.m v .11 be jno bettor. i.--r the j.iai.t pntr more vigorously, however, have funny I little fanc-i.s l,ke the r«-1 of us, each .variety Laving s—:,e illb- peculiar .detail whuh. n raref.dly noted, helps in I increase that |articular variety's usefulness. Now when a Ibise bu-h is ecu- ' rectly nati.ed we know jusl ci..cllv'jWhat we an- d-aling with. ;.n,l do mit jlxave to tM.iber v< th it. trying all mean-; ■ |to saliwf, ,t. nnd pr..l.ab'h jail at last ' ' -in ply 1.0r,,;..<• v.- C d not think the ' i bib, i woith k--'-],Jn ? . Vi-. every plant Mi* worth a c-iior-t name, never mind •I what sort it i». We none of us. indud- • ling l;o*e«. have ih" rboosing of our own j names. f.,r if we did. well, in many 'cases, to uv an Iri-hism. **they would ' not !<• our-." Now jc a gr.nd time to go ■round and sec that the names are all f correct and plain, and if any new labels Mare required now is the time, when Jong •J evenings are coming, to take a list and write them of an evening. I have tried jail kinds of label'—ir.et.al arid wood, patent and non-patent, with patent ink« and patent pencils—and I hare come to s the conclusion that the ordinary wooden s | libel is unMirposscd. Ib.r Roses and such i, permanent thing- iw a label about l.">ia t long anl 1 or l;m broad, and about - 3-Sm thick. Paint it with a coat of t ordinary white paint, and let it dry. ? I When you want to write on it put a » J lilt be paint on a bit of rag and -r.i.-ar t I over the face, using a- little paint as ~ possible: then write thickly with an jloidinarr black lead pencil—grade ]',—- land when dry vou will have a name on j the label that will often last out tliI label. The chief point js to write with (, j a soft black lead on a wet paint MrI face, and let it dry before handling, t I otherwise the w riling snic-at-.