THE NORTH SHORE.

Auckland Star, Volume 246, Issue 246, 16 October 1926, Page 27

THE NORTH SHORE.

HOW IT WAS SETTLED.

INTERESTING REMINISCENCES

I'.y MR. ALLAN O'XEILT

It was not long after the foundation of the city on the southern banks of the Waitcmata that Europeans started to go on the land on the opposite side of the harbour. Mr. Allan O'Xeill, now residing at Hurstmere Road. Takapuna, son of one of the early settlers, has furnished the following interesting particulars about the first arrivals at Bayswater, Xorthcote, and Takapuna. It was in 1843 that his uncle. Dr. (afterwards the Hon.) James O'Xeill went to live at what was then called by the Maoris Xgataringa. The place was for many years afterwards known as O'Xeill'.- Point, and is now the marine suburb of Bayswater. Dr. O'Xeill came hen' when quite a youth. Afterwards he was a member of the Auckland Provincial Council, and later of the first Parliament of Xew Zealand, lie was subsequently called to the Upper House, from which he resigned in 1873. After having resided at Ngataringa for four years Dr. O'Xeill moved to Dedwood, which ran from the shore at Freeman's Bay to what is now known as Ponsonby, including the present property of the Roman Catholic Convent. The .second son of Dr. O'Xeill was born at Xgataringa in 1845, and afterwards became a doctor in the army. A daughter married Mr. William Flood, a naval officer, who was for a period secretary to the Auckland Club. The eldest daughter of Dr. O'Xeill married Lieutenant Hunt. When H.M.s. Orpheus was wrecked on the Manukau Bar, a body supposed to be that of the Commodore was buried with full honours. Afterwards Lieutenant Hunt went to the beach on the other side of the ranges to see if the Maoris had burie,d all the bodies of the dead seamen. To his astonishment, he saw the body of the Commodore on the beach, so had it buried not far from the waterfront. Other children of Dr. O'Xeill w r ere Colonel William O'Xeill, James O'Xeill, who was in the navy, Captain Herman O'Xeill, who was in the Dublin Fusiliers, and Messrs. James and Allan O'Xeill, both of whom were solicitors. SETTLERS FROM HOKIANGA. The first settlers to the Shore came from Hokianga. When Hone Heke, the Xgapuhi chief, started fighting at the Bay of Islands, the country further north was not considered safe for white men, and there was an exodus to Auckland. Of course, before the arrival of these settlers from Hokianga there had been pakehas on the northern shore of the harbour cutting timber. Amongst those who came from Hokianga were Messrs. Kelly, Heath, Melville, Hunt, Baker (two of that name not related), Nicholson, Ireland, and Poynton. James Ivell} - , who lived near the mouth of Kauri Gully, Xorthcote, on the road to Takapuna, was the first settler from Hokianga. The other settlers as they arrived from Hokianga put up at Kelly's until they could build homes for themselves. Thomas Poynton lived at what is now known as Shea's farm, of about 40 acres on the southern shore of Lake Takapuna. One of his daughters married Michael Shea, who on his death willed the property to his wife. Mrs. Shea some years prior to her death made over the property to the Roman Catholic Church. The other daughter of Mr. Poynton married Mr. Michael Donnell. A man named John De Courcy ow-ned the whole of the land from the Orphanage on the south side of the main road to Xorthcote Road. Nicholson, who ran a boat between Auckland and the Shore, lived on the property now owned by the McFetridge family at "Sunnybrae," on the western side of Xorthcote Road. Hunt, father of the lucky digger who made a fortune at Thames in the early days of the goldfield, lived next to Nicholsons, wdiile Mr. Baker lived on the other side. Another Mr. Baker lived at what is now called Milford. Heath's place was about half-way between Takapuna and Northcote, and was a stopping place for pedestrians walking from Stokes' Point to Takapuna. The Irelands lived on the Northcote Road from the boundary of the property of the Orphanage. A man named Patrick Melville also lived on the Xorthcote Road. BATTLE OF PORK. Patrick Heath came from Hokianga in 1545. A lot of the settlers there had been ill-treated by the Maoris, and it was decided to organise a punitive expedition, about 40 white men taking part. They found the Maori pa deserted, so satisfied their wrath by slaughtering a number of pigs and taking the carcases away with them. The affair was known as the Battle of Pork. Heath was one of the 40 men who took part in that brilliant engagement. He used to tell how they were armed with muskets loaded with small bullets. When the first volunteer company was formed in Auckland about 1863, Mr. Ireland contended that the old Brown Bess loaded with a fistful of bullets was better than an Enfield rifle. It was Mr. Ireland who first introduced rat-tail grass in the Takapuna district. Mr. Stewart, who lived at Barry's Point in the early 'forties, was the father of the late Mrs. Birmingham, who resided for many years on the southern side of Lake Takapuna. The house was formerly occupied by Dr. Fisher, w-ho owned about 40 acres fronting the lake, and practised in Auckland. Mr. Allan O'Neill, who lived at what is now Bayswater, was a brother of Dr. O'Neill, and a surveyor by profession. He was the father of the writer of these reminiscences. In company with Mr. John Campbell, Mr. Allan O'Xeill surveyed both Northcote and Takapuna in the early 'forties prior to the arrival of the settlers from Hokianga. On one occasion when the party of surveyors camped at the back of the lake (Shakespeare Road) near a swamp, one man wakened the others and said he thought he had heard a call of distress from someone in trouble nearby. The whole party turned out, and waded through the swamp till daylight without finding anyone. There was some bitter cursing from the gallant would-be rescuers when they afterwards learned that the noise they had heard was the call of the bittern. When Mr. Campbell afterwards cut up property he owned in Ponsonhy he named one street after his partner. This runs down from Ponsonbv Eoad alongside the Church of the Sacred Heart. Mr. Allan O'Xeill was the first man to survey the North Shore for the Government. He was also employed to lay out some of the principal streets in Auckland, and later to survey the area lying between Takapuna and Bay of Islands. SOME LATER ARRIVALS. Mr. Carruth, who settled at Takapuna in 1845, came from "nangarei. His farm ran from Strand Road to Earnock Avenue on the beach side, thence to Pupuke touching the lake. In the fifties he sold his place to Mr. Guthrie and went to Papatoetoe. Judge Munro afterwards built a cottage which is still standing °n the site of the original home in Killarnev Street of the first settler, Mr. Carruth. Mr. and Mrs. Vaughan and family arrived in the 'fifties and settled at the other side of the College Creek, Takapuna. The son, the late Mr. George Vaughan, went to Long Bay on the road

to Waiwera in 1863, and the family still own the land fronting Vaughan's Beach, opposite Arkle's Bay. A Miss Holland married Mr. Tye, who lived at Sunnybrae, Takapuna. He was the father of the Tye family, who were well known in the district for many years. Mr. B. Menfeary, who had been working on Waiheke Island, arrived at Takapuna in 1852 and resided there till his death. He was the owner of 40 acres of land from the corner of Xorthcote and Takapuna Roads to about opposite Shea's farm. In 1552 Mr. Alexander Mackay arrived at Takapuna, and lived on what is now known as Smale's Corner at the southern end of Shakespeare Eoad. His farm ran from Campbell's Corner up to Sherriff's, and then on to Campbell's Bush near Milford. This has now been cut up into sections and is known as Brett's Park Estate. Mrs. T. Seaman, a daughter of Mr. A. Mackay, still lives on a portion of the old farm in Shakespeare Road. Another daughter, Miss Mackay, also had a house there. Mr. Donald Mackay, now residing at Milford, at one time lived opposite the Catholic College. When Mr. O'Connor, who at one time ran a boat across the harbour, died, Mr. Mackay bought his old home. Later it was purchased by Mrs. Major Mair, who built a house on the property opposite the Catholic College. At her death the land was cut up and sold in quarteracre sections. Monsieur De Cove sold his property to the late Sir Frederick Whittaker. The area faced the lake and adjoined the land owned by the late Dr. Fisher. The property is now 7 owned by Mr. H. H. Adams. A Mr. Trainer originally purchased the land known as the Shakespeare Estate on the Lake Road. The Methodist Church is now erected on a portion of this area. Mr. Barry arrived at the Shore in 1855. He first lived at Lake Town, near what is now 7 called Jutland Road. From that place he shifted to the 'point near the Catholic College. That place is still called Barry's Point. O<_-.■__ ; Mr. John Andrews and Mr. William Davis, who had been on Kawau Island, went to live at the North Shore in 1852. Andrews owned the land from what is now known as Belmont down to the creek running west into Shoal Bay. Davis bought the land from the creek to Eversley Road opposite the residence of Mr. W. C. Wilson. Mrs. Bailey, wife of Mr. Charles Bailey, senior, boatbuilder, of Auckland, also Mrs. Thomas Nicholson, were daughters of Mr. Davis. What is now called Cemetery Creek by the fishermen was at one time named after Mr. Davis. In 1862 Mr. Fitzpatrick went to live on the college land opposite McFetridge's on the Xorthcote Road. Prior to that he had been residing at Soldier's Bay beyond Chelsea. Xicholson and McFetridge, both had the same place, the latter being the son-in-law. McFetridge is now living on the farm. DR. CAMPBELL'S HOLDINGS. The late Sir John Logan Campbell at one time owned a lot of land in the Takapuna district. Baker sold him 75 acres, and the doctor was also owner of all the land on the northern side of Kitchener Road from Wairau Creek round to the Mon Desir Hotel at Takapuna. It was afterwards bought by the late Mr. W. J. Hurst, and upon his death was cut up and sold by auction. That area is now covered with handsome residences situated in beautifully laid out grounds. Dr. Campbell also owned 30 acres of land on the southern side of Kitchener Boad beyond the bridge at Wairau right across to Castor Bay. Other land owned by Dr. Campbell was on the eastern side of Shaksepeare Road up to Forest Hill, a portion of which was afterwards purchased by the late Mr. Thomas Seanan. In the early 'sixties, the Willetts, Sherriffs, Hamptons, Lockyers and Robinsons settled at Takapuna. Mr. Boyd, who arrived in 1865, afterwards carried on a brick and pottery works at Arch Hill, Great North Road, and on what is now known as the Mennie Estate. Many years after his death Mrs. Boyd presented some fine statuary to Auckland City. Another resident of Takapuna was Mr. (afterwards the Hon.) John Sheehan, Native Minister. His cottage was purchased by Mr. Hugh Hart Lusk, who died a few weeks ago in Auckland. The property was afterwards owned by the late Mr. E. Harrow-.

Early residents on the other side of the harbour evidently recognised it was imperative for their children to have the advantage of education. As fa*r back as 1849 St. Mary's College was built by Bishop Viard at the head of Shoal Bay. The money was furnished by the Society for the Propagation of the Faith (Paris). It is therefore to the French Catholics the honour is due of being the first to provide educational facilities on the northern side of the Waitemata Harbour. In 1854 the Government voted £600 for the Eoman Catholic schools, and £700 for the Wesleyan ones. Grants in aid of denominational schools therefore started early in the history of Auckland. In 1885, the Provincial Government set aside £1000 to assist tbe education of European children through undenominational schools. That appears to be the first evidence of a tendency towards secular education. Several priests and students were in residence at St. Mary's College as far back as 1854. It was so hard to secure school teachers in those days that in 1859 the Government offered a grant of 80 acres of land to every fully qualified school teacher who entered its employ. SETTLERS BUILD A SCHOOL. It was not until 1860 that the settlers put up a small building to be used as a day school during the week, and for religious services on Sunday. A cottage was also erected for the teacher. The site, which was on the Northcote Eoad, was donated by Mr. Meanary. Parents had to pay one shilling per week for each child attending the school, and the Government contributed a similar sum. There was no free education in those days for settlers' children, but the Government had the right to nominate some Maori children, who were taught without charge. The school was not a success for the simple reason that there were not enough scholars, one cause being that the Catholic children attended a school in the college grounds, of which Mr. Maloney was the master. The other school building was used by all demoninations for religious services, excepting, of course, the Catholics, who had their own place of worship. In 1865 the settlers at O'Neill's Point erected a building to he used as a church and school, the site being donated by Dr. O'Neill. The first master was a Mr. Negus, who taught for about four months. One day while on the way to school he broke a blood vessel, and was discovered later by a boy who had gone to look for him. He found Mr. Negus lying on the roadside quite dead. The next master was Mr. G. B. Chomondly Smith, now living at Long Bay. As there were not enough pupils to keep the first school at Takapuna going it was closed, and the scholars attended the one under Mr. Chomondly Smith. RELIGIOUS SERVICES. About 1864 the Eev. Hayward used to preach in the afternoon once a month at the school building in Xorthcote Eoad. Two years later the Eev. Kerr conducted services there, and later the Eev. Wallace, a Presbyterian minister, did the same once a month. After Mr. Kerr left, the Eev. Ashwell, who lived at Devonport, preached there every Sunday morning, then at O'Neill's Point at 3 p.m. and at 4.40 to the natives at Waiwhareriki (Napier Estate). In the evening Mr. Ashwell conducted another service at Devonport. He gave his services free, and to him Sunday was hardly a day of rest. Mr. Ashwell returned to England,'when he for the first time saw a railway train. After the departure of Mr. Ashwell, Colonel Gambel used to read the services on Sunday. Later that duty was undertaken by Mr. Allan O'lSTeill, senior. It is of interest to note in connection with this history of the North Shore that the movement for a bridge across the "harbour is by no means a new one. As far back as April 11, 1860, the "New Zealander" suggested that a pontoon and telescope bridge should be made across the waters of the Waitemata. The argument was the same then as that used to-day, namely, that whatever the bridge cost, it would pay for itself in due time.

(To be Continued Next Saturday.)