DAIRY PRODUCE.

Auckland Star, Volume LVII, Issue 204, 28 August 1926, Page 24

DAIRY PRODUCE.

THE SEASON'S PROSPECTS. The good spring which is being experienced in most districts enalries one to predict tl'.at the season will open well. In fact, those who are best able to take a general Mirvev believe that the coming season, from the viewpoint of production, will equal the record one df 1924-">. Last season showed » drop on butterfat of .; per cent. With the coal strike still a factor of anxiety, any definite opinion about j market prospects is hardly worth ven- | tilling. One can only make referenece i t<> conditions existing" in London, where fairly large stocks of butter are held in cold store, some by the dairy companies, and some by speculators. " The exact quantities are not recorded, but it is understood on good authority that they do not exceed the amounts in store at the corresponding period of last year. A bad feature of this storage is that it '•■ads to holding up our butter until it heroines quite stale. On a statistical basis the position of Alicia,. j s fairly sound. There has been no great increase in the importation of cheese into the Unite 1 Kingdom for a ! number of years, tin i»h the supplies of {butter have gone up heavily. If tthe coal .strike were settled, and the miners were j again able to come into the demand, ! there would be some ground for stating | that the prospects of reasonable returns . l.;c coming season are good.

ANXIOUS (Uemuera) asks for advice re a hen which was bleeding for three days, and had much trouble in laying a soft egg. The intestine protruded. Could 1 also direct re feeding?—lt was not the intestine protruding, but the oviduct, which would show bright red. This would give you the impression that the bird was bleeding more than it really did. If you get another case wash the protruding •oviduct in a weak disinfectant or germicide, and replace. Don't oil it, as some books will tell you, because that makes it easier for it to slip out again. You may oil your finger and so oil the Inside of the oviduct, but not the outside. Each week in this column there is information re feeding. Under ordinary conditions a mash of bran and pollard, with a little albumen meal (the sr-raps from the house may be added) should b? the morning ineiil, plenty of frreen stuff nt mid-day, and at least two ounces per bird of whe.it or maize at night. If the birds show a quantity of fat. especially at the abdomen, don't feed maize. Grit, water and charcoal are the only other essentials. Mineral matter, etc.. will be found in the albumen meal.

MOI.LY lOnehiinga): Thanks for past advice which made my Ducks lay. One of my fowls the other day laid a double-yolked pjtji, anrl has not laid since. One yolk was unite all rijrht, the other quite a different colour. I did not fancy it, so I mlsed it in their mash. The fowl is now quite Lime and falls over when she walks; she is very old. I have a bantam sitting on eipht duck ejrfrs. Do .yon think it is a L'onrl time to jrot them out?-Pleased that I was able to help you. It is possible the old hen ruptured a small blood vessel near the ovaries or in the oviduct, or the ovary tissue may be diseased. It would be best to kill her. Yes, it will be quite all right to hatch the duck eggs now.

M.11.R. has some Ducks which are not doing' :it all well ns resards ezs-productlon. They are soins steadily back. They are fed brnn anrl pollard, equal parts, mixed with milk and soup.' Midday they get house scraps and a little grain. At night they get the mash the same as the morning. Twice a week they get chopped liver.—lt is very probable that the birds are getting, too much fibre and not sufficient real digestible food; especially if the pollard Is coaTe. There would also be a tendency to a looseness of the bowels. Try feeding maize at night for a while instead of mash, unless you have plenty of skim milk. If so. make it sour and drain off the whey and feed that in the mash. Discontinue the liver and feed albitnen. One .meal must be either maize, wheat or curds till you have balanced i heir systems aiain. When you are feeding think what .rou are feeding for. ••eggs." and think. -'Can the fowls make it out of the food?"

KIXGSLAND obtained a good sitting ot eggs, but has some difficulty in obtaining a broody hen. Please say how long the egjrs will remain fertile. —The.v will remain fertile for all time, but. their

hatchabllity would be about six weeks at this time of the year, less than that when the weather is hot. Keep them in a cooi place, and turn them over every three or four days; they would be better in a closed box. Naturally, the sooner they are under the hen the better.

NOVICE seeks general advice. Has bought a few fowls, has never kept fowls before, how should they be fed; has bought pollard and wheat. Should they be fed bran also and maize? Should the wheat be boiled? How should the household scraps be given? Someone told mc to mince them and then cook them, is that right? Is it necessary to mince the scraps? Don't mind what trouble I go to in order to get results. Intend to get some day-old chicks in September. How should I feed and care for these? Have no idea, but ' mean to learn. Should the chicks be kept in a box in the washouse for a time. I may get a couple of ducks. What kind are the best? I have only a small run.— Boil the potato peelings and vegetable waste, you need not mince it. Mix it up with a stick, or your hands are better, with bran and pollard. If the household scraps are of a starchy nature, such as pieces of pie crust, stale scones, cake, bread, etc., add more bran. If chiefly waste green stuff increase the amount ot pollard. Don't cook grain, you only make the gizzard of the bird soft and flabby it it has no work to do. The birds will also want shell grit, grinding grit, small scoria will do, some crushed charcoal, and fresfl drinking water. If there is not much meat scrap from jour household put albumen meal in the mash. I will write re the care of chicks fully shortly. You will have to get a brooder for the chicks I would not advise you buying a couple of Ducks. You will probably have enough trouble with the chicks as it is your first attempt, and the Ducks would not Improve the ground for the chicks. Of course, buying' your experience is often the best in the long run. If you think so, buy a couple of six or seven months' old Indian Runners.

DIGGER (Te AwamutU) .writes a nice, kindly letter, stating that I have sufficient friends amongst poultrykeepers to push my claim to go to the world's ponltry conference in Canada next year. —It is very kind of cny correspondent, and I might say others have suggested the same, but I want to give a definite answer. I cannot afford to go. I could not spare the time nor the money. The proper man to represent New Zealand is the chief Government poultry expert. He would have far more standing than would a private individual. Will my many friends please accept this as final, but none the less I am grateful to them. It is nice to think that this column is so appreciated.

TO CORRESPONDENTS. P.M. (Herekino) writes: Will you kindly say if it is advisable to pluck off all flowers showing ou Strawberry plants?—-Flowers showing at the preseut time are best picked off. It is seldom that they coene to maturity, and If they do, the berries are usually deformed and small. Commercially It is not always done, owing to the question of time, but there is no doubt the plants would receive benefit by having the blooms picked off. LEMON (Stanley Bay) sends a Lemon for examination.—The trouble is brown rot. Spray with lime sulphur. Spraying must be done as soon as the Lemons are formed. and continued at intervals of about a month for three successive applications. Gather aud burn all diseased fruit. LAWN (iMorrinsvHle) writes: 1 have a tennis court put down two years ago, but at present there is too much Clover. What is the best top-dressing to use to check the Clover?— Nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia. The nitrate is probably the better of the two. It can be mixed with dry soil, and applied at the rate of one ounce to the square yard, or it can be dissolved in water at the rate of half an ounce to the gallon and applied at the same rate per yard. PAX3Y (Birkenhead) writes: I have a bed of Pansies just coming into bloom. The plants are rather small. Can you advise mc what kind of manure to give them? — 1 A mulching of rotten cow manure would be as good as anything, but failing that, use blood and bone. If available use both kinds. Pansies like plenty of manule. It you are trying to grow large blooms f° r show, it will be necessary to keep the flowers pinched off and reduce the s-hoots somewhat, so as to' throw the strength into a few strong shoots. HAKEA (New Lynn) asks: (1) Will Hakea .sallgna grow trom cuttings? (2) What spray should I use for Peach, Apple, Plum and Nectarine trees planted last season: (3) I sowed a lawn last May and applied blood and bone manure at time of sowing. Should I give a further dressing ot manure now? —(1) Hakea sallgna is grown from seed. It is difficult to root from cnttings. (2) Use lime sulphur solution (3) There should be no need of further manure now; a dressing of basic slag in autumn would be better. KNOWLEDGE (Opotiki) asks the following questions :—(1) I have a patch of garden on n hillside. The soil is not first-class and gets fairly dry in summer. Will you let mc know what is the best crop to plant on it? (2) I have not had much success with garden peas—they grow but do not pod. Are dwarf or tall varieties the best? (3) Is superphosphate beneficial to Strawberries? (4)

Is fowl manure suitable for Rhubarb ': — (1) I think the best crops to put in from now on would lie Potatoes, Carrots, French Beans and Tomatoes. In the Autumn you cuuld pluut Cabbage, Cauliflowers, Turnips, etc. Crops put in now would either have to mature quickly or stand the ebuuee of the dry weather The ones mi'ntlf'ued would be the best to stand dry weather. (2) There must be something lacking in the soil, why the Peas rlo not port. Try sulphate of potash, using about an ounce to three yards (lineal). Work it into the soil a week or ten days before sowing the seed. The dwarf varieties need less staking, and are more quickly maturing; the tall varieties are heavier and more continuous i croppers. (3) Yes, but it must not ; he allowed to touch the foliage? (4) I Yes, but do not overdose the plants, , although they will take a fair quantity ] READER (Taumarunui) asks the follow- | ing:—(l) The amount of Grass Seed required for the following areas :—l!4 x 36, I :su x 00, 78 x 6, 60 x 9. (2) The soil is poor. Would you advise a liberal dressing of superphosphate before sowing? (3) Regarding spraying of Fruit | Trees, I have heard that refuse oil from i the crank case of a car engine gives good results. If this so so should it be diluted, and if so what should be used? — 11) Sib, 171b, 4S11), 51b. (2) Tes, most decidedly, and if the grass is. expected to last it should be given a top-dressing of basic slag each year. (3) I should not like to advise you to use the refuse oil. Before using any oil on fruit trees it must j be emulsified so that it can be diluted | with water. The chances of a mistake being read* and destroying the trees is too risky. If you require an oil spray for your trees purchase spraying oil, which is already emulsified and only needs i water adding. \ M.S.B. (Remuera) sends a specimen for I identification. —It looks like an Ixia or . small jonquil, but it is impossible to cor- I rectly name such small unflowered, sped- ; mens. y 8.8. (Raetihi) writes: I have a row of Autumn-sown Sweet Peas. Some of the j plants have done well, but others have stood still at about three inches high. The leaves turn yellow, and some others have died off altogether. I pulled up some plants and found quite large swellings on the roots. The manure used was sheepyard and was placed at the bottom of the trench? —The nodules on the roots are quite normal, and are \ found on all Sweet Pea roots. The cause of the plants going yellow and ! dying off is mildew in a large measure due to, a mild wet season. Use some powdered sulphur scattered on the soil around the plants. The sulphur will not damage the plants. A spraying with lime-sulphur solution will be beneficial in preventing the mildew from spreading to the rest of the plants. HOLLYHOCK DISEASE. This disease deters many from attempting to grow these charming and stately perennials. The following is a mixture which acts as an insecticide. Mix six ounces of softsoap and a lump of soda in half a gallon of water. When this is well mixed, add half a pint of kerosene, and well agitate. When xvell mixed add two and a-half gallons of warm water. The mixture is then ready for use, and is best used slightly warm. The plants should be well sprayed with the mixture. Both the under and upper rurface of the leaves should be well sprayed with the mixture. The mixture, if properly and carefully prepared, is one of the best and most handy for a small garden. It is useful for Hollyhock and Chrysanthemum rust, also for Rose mildew, and is excellent for green fly on Roses, etc. ANEMONE AND PLUM RUST. Experiments conducted by an eminent mycologist show that the accidal stage of the Plum Rust, Puccinia Pruni, is aecidium punctatum, the so-called Anemone Rust. This aecidal stage of the Plum Rust has now been recognised to be the same in many parts of the world. This means that Anemone Rust, which occurs in winter and early spring, is one stage of the Plum Rust, the chief practical result of which will be that Anemones and Plum trees will not be a good pair to have close together. Both these diseases are very prevalent about Auckland, so much so that it is almost impossible to grow Anemones the second season. As seedlings the Anemones do not have the chance to contract the rust, or only to a very slight degree, but the second season the foliage becomes so affected that in many cases the plants are killed outright. To control the disease with any degree of success means that the Plum Rust must be controlled by spraying during the summer. All fallen leaves, pfunings and dead branches from the Plum trees must bo carefully collected and burnt. So far as the Anemones are concerned the only method of control is spraying with lime-sulphur or bordeaux. This must be frequently done, but owing to the weather conditions prevailing when the Anemones are growing and the plant's low stature it is not altogether a great success. THE NEWER DAHLIAS. The Dahlias appear to have taken quite a jump forward in public favour, judging by the number and descriptions of varieties that are being sent out by raisers. Some of the varieties will no doubt fall out, but there appears to be many that will remain for some years to come. One good point that appears to be fairly prominent amongst them is good stiff flower stems, holding the flowers erect above the foliage. So much is this in their favoiir that without a doubt the old varieties, with their weak flower stem and drooping flowers, will before long be eliminated. The following varieties were grown last season in some of the London parks and favourably commented upon: Amongst the best of the Cactus varieties were Albert E. Amos, a crimson, free flowering, and with the blooms carried erect on firm cane-like stems. Christine Prior, bright gold, deepening to orange, the stems thin and j wiry. Ring-Curzol, deep rose, with a I white base to the petals, with long, stiff j stems quite erect. Snow Bunting, a I white, with first rate stems carrying the J flowers quite erect. Alice Amos, classed as a Hybrid Cactus, but is best described as a Cactus with a rather coarse floret. The flowers are carried on long, erect stems. Of the newer decorative varieties, the most prominent were Beren garia, a fine golden orange, enormous flower, hold quite erect. Leslie Hancock a deep crimson, large flowers, carried oi> hard, upright, rigid stems. Orange Perfection, large flowers, carried well above the foliage. Fred Ransome, a dark maroon, large, with good stems. Sheila Ward, a tall grower, with a stiff, uprighl habit: the flowers are very large, yellow heavily tipped white on long, stiff stems Unclb Dick, a bicolour, orange scarlet with white tips; a dwarf grower, com pact habit, erect flower stems. Mrs Ernest Cant, described in a report of * R.H.S. Show as the perfect-stemmec Dahlia, with flower stems as "hard as a bamboo."' The colour, old gold, suffusec a bronzy shade. The single Dahlia Coltness Gem, is spoken of as the besi of the Mignon section, and is a verj popular variety for bedding. It growabout 18in high, and its bright red flowers are carried erect above thf foliage.

SLUGS. The following is given as a useful lugicide. A solution of soft soap—one K)und to eight gallons of water, and a [uarter of an ounce of sulphate of immonia added—the haunts being well vatered with this solution. It is said to lrive the slugs out on to the paths and ilso quantities of worms. The solution loes not appear to hurt any plants xcept glaucous-leaved ones, and it in■ariably causes their leaves to fall off. 3ABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER. Cabbage and - Cauliflower plants are leing set out in great numbers for early ise. A little extra care in planting will )rove a good investment. Draw drills ibout three inches deep, and put the slants in these; the little ridge on each ;id£ of the plant will shelter them from •old, cutting, winds, and later on, when he plants are growing fast, hoeing will 511 the drille with soil, which will inswer the same purpose as moulding, ''lant firmly but do not over-water, rtemember much water makes the soil ?old and retards root formation. Give >aeh plant a little (very little) immeliately after planting. That ie all that s necessary. As fast as Cauliflower and Broccoli heads are cut dig up and destroy :he stumps, as, if left, they contine to nake root, impoverishing tie soil to no purpose. To destroy them, either dig a iole and bury them or put them on a "übbish heap. LETTUCE. Lettuce to be of the best quality must )e grown in an" open position in rich, ight soil, and must have plenty of room )etween the plants for development, or he hearts will be small and loose. It s best gTown on soil that has borne a iot too exhausting crop that has been leavily manured the preceding season. :n our climate it may be sown almost ill the year round, and there is no season if the year in which good Lettuces are iot wanted and appreciated. A quarter )f an ounce of seed will be sufficient for i row fifty feet long. SHALLOTS. These are among the earliest of root :rops that are benefited by being planted about the present time. But ?very consideration must be given to the rtate of the weather and the condition of the soil. Unless the weather is mild and the surface of the soil dry enough to permit of it being worked" without it adhering to the tools and feet of the planter, it is well to defer operations till these conditions are quite favourable. In late districts, if the soil is heavy and retentive of moisture nothing will be gained by very early planting. The bulbs of the common Shallot should be placed in rows from 9in to lft apart and from Tin to Bin apart in the rows. The large Russian variety which is best for exhibition purposes should be planted not closer than 12in by 9in. Set the bulbs half their depth in the ground, leaving the tips uncovered, but make the soil firm about the covered part. ARTICHOKES. The tubers of the Jerusalem Artichoke may be planted now. The rows should be three feet apart, the sets one foot apart in the row, and six inches deep. The white seeded sort is the best cropper. After planting in any sort of soil a medium loam, moderately manured being the best.the Jerusalem Artichoke will look after iteelf, if necessary, though it pays to hoe the ground once or twice during the growing season, and earth up the plants when they require it. Not everyone likes this egetable, but many more would appreciate it than do if they' knew how savoury a dish it makee when well grown, well cooked, and nicely served. As the plants grow tall they can l>e made to form a breakwind to other vegetables of a less hardy nature. THRIFS. Thrips are very minute insects which feed on and destroy flowers and plants about the garden or inside the greenhouse. The mature insects are small, almost microscopic in size, generally very dark in colour and furnished with fringed wings, and have feet provided with a kind of bladder. The average gardener soon recognises the injury done by these little pests. They will attack the most delicate parts, often the petals of the flower, but frequently do damage to the leaves, fruit, and even the young tender twigs. The parts affected soon become spotted, rusted or withered, and finally distorted and unhealthy-looking. Peas, Roses, Sweet Peas, are only a few of the well known plants attacked. A mild insecticide is efficacious in keeping them in check. Nicotine, quassia solution, kerosene emulsion or carbolic soap are all effectual for destroying these insects. 'Whatever solution is used, it should be used weak, but four or five sprayings should be given at intervals of two or three days. Weak solutions used often are more effectual than a stronger solution with a longer period between the applications. THE TIGER SLUG. Many amateur gardeners will be surprised to learn that the large striped slug sometimes known as the tiger slug, on which they wage ruthless war, and which appears such a voracious enemy of growing plants, is in reality a very good friend to the gardener. Mr. R. W. Roche stated in a recent lecture in New Plymouth that this slug was a cannibal and ate large numbers of small slugs (says the Taranaki "HeTald"). He had never seen one of the slugs touch a vegetable, but he had often scon them eating young slugs and snails. He had often seen a tiger slug with its head buried in a snail which had previously been killed with lime. When putting lime on slujrs in the garden at night he always took care to put tliP tigor slu;rs to one side well out of reach of the lime. Mr. Roche also added J that the common practice of puttins a ring of lime round a plant to protect it from slugs was , quite useless. Even jif the lime were unslaked it beeamr slaked immediately on coming in contact with the damp earth, and sluewould be crawling; over it by next morning. The only way to kill slusrs with lime was to put unslaked lime directly on them. CAMPHOR FOR SNAILS. According fro the "American Florist' a grower who was troubled with snaiU sought the advice of a chemist friend who recommended the use of camphor 01 moth balls used in preserving clothe.from moths. These balls were placed or the soil at about twelve inches apart and it is stated that for the past foui months the garden has been untroubled :by the pests.

RHUBARB,

GARDENS FOR SCHOOLS,

Although this will succeed for a num ber oi years in the =ame position it i, wise to renew Mie plant, occaeionallv line is perhaps the best time of the year in which to break up and replant old crowns. Each piecj must aave a promi nenc eye, a* small eyes seldom growgood stalks. The ground can hardly be too rich. Four feet should be allowed betweeu the rows, and the same between the plants. No btalks should be drawn the firet year, and all nowerinc stems must be cut out as they appear durinz tiic growing season. 6

If children are to go a-gardenbf with zest they should have the joy that every home gardener has, of planting an*d working with the encouragement of flowers and plants as seen in almost every home garden. Why have w e bo little enterprise tiiat we only afford for the scene of the majority of our school gardens the bare, unadorned spots and insist that children wait until seeds of their own planting come up before there is any sign of a garden? There is no reason why the school garden should not be a definite integral part of the school grounds nor why it should always be a thing of very transient crops. If vre expect the children to love the garden, it would be well to provide them with' something more permanent to hang their affection on than Beans, Radishes, and Lettuce, excellent as these vegetables are. Especially fascinating to children would' it be if instead of the usual uniform plots, the whole wtre laid out as a tiny estate—complete with orchard, kitchen garden, flower garden, shruberry etc.. all in miniature. The tool house could be made like a tiny farm house, and its setting of a small garden would give the children a chance to see how lovely such a place might be; it would also five them a good idea of how a small place, might be laid out to the very best advantage ; where in relation to the house is the best place for orchard, vegetable garden, etc., what to plant on the "shady side," what for the "sunny side," and how to plan for a delightful admixture of flowers and vegetables. Such a type of a model garden would give a child a clear idea of the orderly seasonal work which makes up gardening and has much to do with its endless- fascination, not the growing of a few crops, while the rest of the year is a blank. Such a garden would also afford scope for widely varied forms of workmanship. A well made garden bench, lattice work to support the climbers grown against the house, a rough trellis, for Grape Vines, or Espalier fruit trees. The orchard would be set in proper relation to the house, it would be dwarf trees and would afford an opportunity for instruction in pruning, spraying, and the proper care of fruit trees. As it is now taught school gardening does nothing of this—but it might.