FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume LVI, Issue 180, 1 August 1925, Page 26

FASHION NOTES.

(By AN EXPERT.)'

PARIS, April 15.

April is pre-eminently the month of fashions and flowers. It is the spring! Mkmt beautiful of all seasons, when women, like the flowers, thrill with the joy of lift, and when under rouge-tinted complexions there flows the pink of a more generous blood, when Nature is en fete, when raiment is as delicate and radiant as the young shoots, and the first leaves. Parisiennes, who have hitherto maintained a policy of prudent reserve about their summer toilettes, are now definitely putting aside their furs ana their first half-season dresses, and taking to lighter things and bright and delicate colours, like those so liberally employed by Nature when she paints her skies, woods, meadows and gardens. The springtime brings us etill more new embroideries, which, more and more develop the Oriental note dear to Leon Baskst, and give to Parisiennes a touch of the exotic; wonderful striking flowers, motifs, slightly Cubist in style, with fragments of mirror, spangles, large sequins, everything recalling the glitter of Oriental bazaars. Feathers still are much worn for trimming, but it is cut short and plays the role of shaved lamb, and is tinted the same tone as the dress. With regard to the summer materials, there are some beautful ones which have lately been produced. One that bids fair to rival kasha in popularity,- is called charmalline, and falls as. gracefully as marocain. Every variation of brown finds place in the new materials. The only other colours that seem destined to And favour are bright red and eoft almond green, together with fuchsia and cyclamen, all j handsome in charmalline. It would appear, however, that mixed browns may I hold their own for summer coats and sports suits. The Triumph of the Society Leaders. It is only justice to the recognised leaders of society, to say that they hold the sceptre of fashion and hold it firmly. They combine their personal charm with that of the delightful frocks they wear. This year they are still wearing crepe, either plain or printed, and alpaca, chiffon, voile and lace. Dresses are close-fitting, narrow, and very straight, having pronounced lines with very few exceptions. The whole is usually very the Itrimming being all below the waist.. They are also wearing very new hats. One might almost suppose that the modistes, whom the dressmakers have always been inclined to relegate to the background, are trying to have their revenge. They are certainly surpassing themselves at present. Some of the latest hats are little masterpieces of originality and art; they are simply "ducks of hats!" One can understand why so many women, bound for the. races at Cbantilly, should encumber themselves with a hat box, for these delicate millinery triumphs can't stand the wind and the dust of a long drive out to this delightful racecourse. Many women are wearing the new hat allied "petit snob," with its directoire crown. It is seen at Auteuil and at the "opening" of Longchamps. Also still noticeable; are the/small "cloche" hats, and, the big "poke" bonnet style, which is, the dernier cri with La Parisierine. /** The Wearing of Flow*tb. .. With regardyto the. wearing of flowers, apart from the .girdles, there is every whit as much laxity as in anything else. One might put a bunch of peonies in the--very edge of the skirt, and people would only think it original and charming. Or, one might take an old picture of the crinoline days of the fifties and sixties, and copy the method exactly, and be highly commended for one's taste in these matters. For our grandmothers had very many ways of using flowers on their ball gowns, to match tho wreaths in. their hair, and they did not scruple to use them lavishly. Whenever a flounce or bouillonne of tarlatan, tulle or glace silk was caught up, it was usually a posy of flowers of a cluster of feathers which was used for the purpose, while, under veilings of blonde lace, nestled wreaths and festoons. A fashion journal of 1861 describes how, with a blue silk dress the bodice was covered with flowery and tulle, and the sieves were trimmed to correspond, while a round wreath of white chrysanthemums completed the effect. A white silk dress, covered with three skirts of white tulle d'illusion was looped up with bunches of blue daisies, while the corsage had folds of tulle fastended in the middle, and on each shoulder with daisies, and of course, there was a coronet and coiffure of blue daisies to match. And yet another gown had a ber the of net and silk with a large cactus placed in the centre, and a smaller one on each shoulder. The Place Vendome creates, with extraordinary French facility, all sorts of exotic flora that, like Whistler's trees, are never seen on land or sea. Lame roses bloom among lame leaves, bouquets of coloured jet blossom with brilliant loveliness, delicately tinted wax forms the petals of a remarkable cluster of pastel coloured flowers—just the bouquet for a filmy lace frock. pur Sketch. White "shantung" sports dress, trimmed with red waxed braid and with the