FASHION NOTES

Auckland Star, Volume LV, Issue 248, 18 October 1924, Page 22

FASHION NOTES

(By AN EXPERT.)

PARIS, June 25. At Longchamps, Auteuil and St. Cloud, where racing is now in full glory, write.s our Parisian correspondent, gowns which I saw only in the decorously subdued light of the Crandes Maisons some weeks ago. at the openings, arc appearing in the glaring light of the sun, which reveals what passed unnoticed in shaded salons, that is, the high visibility of summer styles. Petticoats have passed away, and the Parisienne wears only silken knickers under her thin orepc de chine, chiffon, or alpaca frocks. This, when the sun is on duty, makes the transparency feature quite startling. There seems to be a general opinion that if one may wear knickers on the links, the suggested outline of knickers at the races, or for tea in the Bois, are quite epatant. The transparency idea, has travelled on to accessories as well. Hosiery is mole than ever of chiffon weight, so transparent, that stockings seem to be non-existent; parasols are diaphanous trifles of chiffon and lace, and hat brims and crowns hide next to nothing of the shinglwl bob and dainty complexions. Women's fashions show no disposition towards amplitude, and brevity of attire is de rigueur. During the war, Highland regiments composed of brawny clansmen with kilts, showed bare legs to the public gaze, and the French were amazed. (Ireat interest was aroused among the women in this unwonted costume, and some very straight-laced old French ladies nearly fainted away. The vagaries of censors in the matter of scanty attire have become proverbial. And now come the Japanese with an edict against all "public" dancing. It will add to the gaiety of nations inasmuch as it invokes "morals, law and public order,"' whereas the real motive has no connection whatever with public decency. A decorative cotton material that appears this season was first taken to be upholstery material. The patterns are uncommonly attractive—graceful flowers, garlands, bouquets, scroll designs expressing motifs of many periods, produced in engaging colours. These cretonnes are employed by clever French artists to develop models, pome of which, because, of their simplicity, work out welt. Smart, comfortable, and picturesque arc the coats, sleeveless jackets, blouses and waistcoats made of these cretonnes. A couturiere. of repute is presenting unusual things in cretonne tea-jackets and breakfast coats, which are worn over slips of lace ana silk or chiffon, and appear to take the place of negligees. Some new and exceedingly pretty cretonne dresses for the country are made to bo worn witlh ptiimpes, collars and cuffs or frilly blouses. And some of tho latest modele are distinctly tailormade in design. Chintz is another absolute novelty this season. It is so well liked that many charming models of it are shown by French designers. Chintz was first introduced in garden forcks, anticipating the later season, and it has also been used by some of the best known couturiers of the Rue de la Paix to establish gowns of more formality for afternoon and evening. A charming model is of chintz in bright coloured flower pattern, being further elaborated with silk embrodiery. In another model—an afternoon gown in flowers and scrolls in lovely colours on an ivory ground—the pattern is traced and pointed with higii lights of brilliant crystal beads. The shops this season are offering a great variety of Roman ribbons in every width, from the sash, to the inch-wide, which is meant to be used as a band on tailored hats, as a necktio on the onepiece frock and blouse, and as a narrow belt. Next in the. display of ribbons, are the rainbow-shaded ribbons. They are lovoly and artistic achievements in colour harmonics. In some of the sasli widths, rainbow colours are beautifully blended, and in others, one colour is softly shaded from dark to light, with charmingly decorative effect. Following tho heavily brocaded metal and repousse effects in ribbon introduced during the winter, these new versions of a quaint style form an important feature in the summer wardrobe. This season ribbon is greatly in demand for the dainty little frocks worn by children — frocks for the small and early dance soirees of the dancing class, school celebrations, and every sort of indoor affair for late afternoon and evening. There is a perfect craze, by the way, where children's dresses are concerned, and especially in little dresses of embroidered net or 'batiste, for trimmings with ilittlo glass buttons. These glittering accessories look lovely on an apricot, peach, hyacinth, or canary organdi frock, woven with a thread of slivery white, and trimmed with these shimmering crystal buttons. Bridal Dress.

A bridal dress of opalc3cent white satin, trimmed with inset sections on the corsage on the skirt, of Yenise point, and a hand-painted white satin "calla" lily adorns the corsage, buds and