LAYERING RHODODENDRONS.

Auckland Star, Volume LV, Issue 248, 18 October 1924, Page 20

LAYERING RHODODENDRONS.

Onoe Rhododendron!) have gone out of flower any nf the lower gro\yths can be layered. The branches should be bent down and cuts made so as to form v tongue, which is pressed Lnto the soil, the process being similar to that employed in Carnation layering. A sandy compost should be used

BURGUNDY MIXTURE. This is often recommended in place of Bordeaux, and is equally effective, but is more easily made as common washing soda is used in place of quirk lime, the only difference being that half as much more soda than lime is used. To make a summer spray of the usual 4—4—40 Bordeaux use 51b bluestone, Clb soda, 40gals of water. Dissolve materials separately and mix by pouring the soda into the bluestone mixture. DAHLIAS. The Dahlia roots should be ready for division. If they have been stood with the ends of the tubers in a little moist soil, the shoots will be seen developing at the junction of the old stem and tubers. When dividing, each tuber must have a bud or eye attached; tubers which are broken off without an "eye" are of no

value. The Dahlia does not have "eyes" on the tubers like potatoes do After division, if the tubers are very large, the lower half can be cut away. When planting put the plant down below the ground level in a shallow basin about four inches rleep. When growth hns commenced this basin can be filled up so as lo cover around the base of the young growth. THE CARNATION MAGGOT. This pest should be looked for in the leaves of the plant, picking them out and destroying them as found. This pest conies from an egg laid by a Hv, from which the maggot is hatched, which then forms a nest by tvin" two or three leaves together, it then" eats its way down into the stem, eventually destroying the heart of the shoot. Spraying with Black Leaf 40, dusting with tobacco powder or soot, will deter the flies from laying their eggs on the foliage, but the only method of controlling the maggot is by hand picking. ARTIFICIAL MANURE FOR ONIONS. The following is an excellent mixture the quantities given being sufficient for one rod or perch of ground: Nitrate of soda lib, guano Jib, kainit Jib, sulphate of iron ilb. Sow hroadcast in showery weather, and well hoe into the ground afterwards as soon as the soil is dry enough; the sooner the better. It should be applied after planting. KEEPING WEEDS DOWN. Keeping the ground clear about the roots of trees and shrubs assist their growth, while thorn is as much necessity of keeping a nhrubbory stirred with the hoo ns them is in the caso of hedH in the kitchen or flower garden.

SOWING ANNUALS OTJTSIDE. It is well to know that the seeds of half hardy annuals such as Stocks, Asters, Phlox Drummondi, Zinnias, etc., may be safely sown outside in a moderately sheltered position now. Tkoueh the plants will be rather late, tho blooms will be quite as fine as those sown earlier. NEW ZEALAND SPINACH. It is often a case of a native plant being more appreciated outside its own country, and the following from an American source shows that New Zealand Spinach is thought more of away from home. The "Garden Magazine" has the following:—"For the home vegetable patch it is one of the most desirable of vegetables, combining all good qualities, and having not a single bad one. is slow to germinate, and therefore the time to sow it is in autumn. Then sow it thickly in a patch—say, three feet square. Tho plants will come up good and strong the following spring. Then transplant when of suitable size to a bed not less than three feet wide —say, in two rows six inches apart and alternately—say ten inches apart in the rows. They send out long vines resting on the ground fully three feet and over. Pick the leaves off separately, boil, and season to tasttf. From late December until a killing frost comes one can have a constant supply of this delicious vegetable. It is equally as healthful as the common Spinach, and grown in much greater ease—practically no care at all except a little weeding about the roots. It is a rampant grower not subject to disease or insect attacks. Of course, no one will grow Chard any more—horrid nightmare—after having grown New Zealand SpinaeS. Just pick the leaves

TOMATOES. Tomatoes may lie planted out at any time now, but where late frosts are likely to occur some protection will he necessary. A crop of Tomatoes can be ; grown on almost any soil, but a medium loam no doubt suits it best. The plants can be purchased from seedsmen, and as only a few are required in small gardens it is really the eusiest and best method. A dozen plants will give sufficient for most households. However, seed sown now will produce Dlants that will fruit during the summer. The Tomato is a hot weather plant, and many failures are caused by too early planting. The soil is cold and wpt, and the plants hang, turn a blue colour, and in general look cold, with the rpsult that they are never satisfactory. |Often those planted at the end of October are as early as those planted a month earlier. The Tomato is a rampant grower, and a very rich soil for planting is not required. Plant out in rows two or three feet apart and eighteen inches space between plants. It is best to put in I the stakes at the time of planting. Many I let the plants lie on the ground, but ft is best to only grow what can be staked. Mains that are grown on the ground are a source of trouble to find the fruit and the results are nothing like equal to those staked. The plants can be grown on a fence, and do well and ripen early. The best method of training is the single stem system. All side growths are removed, and only one, the central or main stem, allowed to develop. When the bundles are set, if the extreme tips are cut off, allowing five or six fruits to each bunch, it will be found to cause tne iruite to ripen more quickly. REPAIRING PERGOLIAS AND ARCHES. Get this work done before the Eoses and other climbers are in full growth. The Rambler Roses have gone ahead this year far quicker than usual, and many gardeners look with misgiving at their trees, that are already °as ™ as a hawthorn hedge in full'leaf. Small attentions will be needed here and there such as tying in trails that have broken loose with the wind. But a more serious trouble conies to light after the wet Winter months. Possessors of a soundlylittle P t e o rg °^' r embedded "» concrete, have slight pergolas and areheT that lire at best very temporary in structure. Just at the critical time when the shoots are starting into life in spring aud are so tender that to untie the R ose an d remake the pergola is out of the nuesoZ'il ?° St .f, IVBS J™*'- A remedy 4 and one that will prolong the life of the pergo a by years, if thoroughly carried -°^ 3 LABELS ev^: r^TL^:^,^,^i

gardens vary nut Uie best, most usefn) top, not the pointed end, and if name

CURRENT 'WORK IN THE GREEN HOUSE. During the month all work ehould be well forward and permanent plants started into active growth. Maidenhair and other ferns will be sending up new fronds, and watch must be kept for I slugs, which are very fond of the young fronds. Tobacco dust or Hellebore powder dusted on the tops of the plants are the best deterrents; both of these preparations can be purchased cheaply 'at seed stores. The atmosphere ehould be damp and buoyant, and this can be J obtained by keeping the paths and benches moist. On warm days an overhead sjTinging can be given, but too I much "water on wet, cold days will j result in a chilly damp atmosphere, i which should bo avoided if possible. I Tubers of Marantas, Caladiums, Achij menes, and such like plants, which have I lain dormant during the winter, should Ibe shaken out and repotted, using & ' compost of loam, leaf-mould and sand, i with a little powdered charcoal. The I pots must bo well drained as these I plants require abundance of water later on. After potting do not water, unless ' absolutely necessary, until the growth 'has started; a light overhead syringing I should be sufficient. Begonias and I Gloxinia bulbs, which have been kept ' back for late blooming, should be started now. The earlier started ones will be making nice growth, and 6hould be potted on if necessary, but be sure it is necessary; the tendency is to overpot rather than in the opposite direction. Last ycar"s plants of Ooleus, which have been kept through the winter should have the young growl hs taken as cuttings; these root readily in sandy soil if kept shaded. Any early raieed plants of Coleus should be potted on as they need it, which is when the roots have reached the sides of the pots. Calceolarias are now coming into bloom, and at this stage need a lot of attention. They are very subject to aphis, and fumigation every week or ten days il essential to keep the plants clean. The heads of bloom will require to be staked with thin stakes. Ventilation must be carefully given, draughts being avoided, yet at the same time a cool moving atmosphere is necessary. Regal Pelargoniums. Fuchsias and Schizanthus will be in bloom, and liquid manure occasionally will be of benefit. Pelargoniums and Fuchsias when in full growth will take plenty of liquid manure, twice a week not being too often. When in the young stage Gloxinias must not have the foliage wetted; in fact, throughout the season it is best to avoid any overhead moisture with Gloxinias. Primulas which have finished flowering should be stood outside; if stood in a cool, shaded position they will throw a little more flower later on. Cinerarias must be given plenty of ventilation, the soil kept moist, overhead moisture avoided, and fumigated occasionally to keep down vermin. Hanging baskets tilled with ferns and plants and suspended from the roof, are very nice where they can be managed. The Semperflorens and Socotrana types of Begonias are very useful for the purpose. Any bedding seedlings and such like which have been raised in the house should be hardened off and placed outside for a few days before planting out.