Practical Gardening by Dianthus

Auckland Star, Volume LIII, Issue 160, 8 July 1922, Page 20

Practical Gardening by Dianthus

Correspondents will greatly oblige by observing the following rules la sending questions for publication in tbese columns: — 1. Letters should be addressed Garden Editor, "Star" Office, Auckland. 2. Write on one side of the paper, and make all communications ac concise as possible. 3. Flowers, etc., sent for naming must be sent separately, and, if possible, packed In a tin or wooden box—cardboard boxes are very liable to be broken in transit and the contents damaged. 4. The full name and address of the sender must always be sent, but a norn d* plume or initial may be given foe publication.

j THE WEEK'S WORK. | 1 THE FLOWER GARDEN. 'f I Cut the blooms of Iris styloia in the bud «U*e mad placa ia water in s= 4 a warm room to open fully. 'i I Plant Spanish and English Iris if the soil Uin food condition. fe I Plant all kinds of shrubs. \ £• Judicious'pruning will improve evergreens. k 1 Give Violets a sprinkling of superphosphate. I f Avoid lime when planting Azaleas. Rhododendrons, or any of the | r S Heath family. I «j Pick off dead and diseased foliage from Carnations. % % Fill any blanks in the beds of Stocks, Nemesias or Panties, f |j Keep bed» clean of weeds. f ii Spray evergreens attacked with sooty scale with Red OQ. | I Keep the soil well stirred around all Bulbs above rround P 1$ I THE GREENHOUSE. & M Start a few Gloxinia and Begonia bulbs for early flowering. fe i< Gardenias may be propagated now. The tip* of the flowering h j shoots make good cuttings. i I Clean pot* and other receptacles. I J Do not overlook fumigation. I '{ Water Carnations sparingly; be sure they are ia need before applying I 3 water. | \ Frecsias grown in pots should be supported by a few twigs. >; \ Repot young stock of Cyclamen as they require it. ;; Sj During the winter months it is important that the stages, pot* and f t: plants of Perpetual Carnations are kept clean. f $ Prune, clean, and tie down early vines. p 4 $ £ THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. | A, i r| Daring this month little can be done; the ground if cold, and '$ d generally very wet. 'c. I Collect Bean and Pea sticks, and place under cover. | 4 Tidy up the Herb bed; lift and re-plant if necessary. \ % Manure and dig all vacant plots. [ % Give Asparagus beds a liberal manuring. -' \ Make succcssional sowings of Broad Beans. > I 5 Rhubarb roots can now be planted out in rows four feet apart f. ; « by three. |; \ Take advantage of dry days to plant Cabbage, Cauliflower, and f i Lettuce, if the ground is in good condition. " % Transplant Onions from Autumn sowing. f I THE FRUIT GARDEN. I 4 w ;S Planting should be completed as soon as possible. h i| Spraying should be done when the weather is good. f--4 Gather and burn all pruning*. I Dig round the trees after pruning. | 3 The pruning of Apricots, Plums, and Cherries should be completed it. J this month. . t '.' Finish pruning small fruit bushes. £ Spray Gooseberries as a preventive of Leaf Spot. . '

TO CORRESPONDENTS. AMATEUR (Grey Lynn) asks: <1) What kind of Plum tree would you recommend for a small garden? I bare beard that Wright's Early is good for preserving. <2) I hare saved a good quantity of wood ashes; should I scatter them over tie ground, or dig them In? (3) Should I dig In lime -to sweeten the heavy soil of this district?—<l) 'Wright's 'Early is a good variety for a small garden. It is good for preserving. (2) Scatter the wood nshps on the surface; the rains will wash them in. (3) By all means use lime in your soil; it will sweeten and improve it in other ways. IGXORAXT (Mount Eden) asks the following questions: (1) Leaf curl and ripe rot in Peaches; have sprayed after pruning with lime sulphur 1-15. How often should the spraying be repeated? (2) How deep to trench for Dahlias V Would two feet be deep enough? Also would guano I worked in now be a suitable manure, and quantity to use? (3) Inserted two dozen cuttings of "Hibiscus last spring. Twenty grew, and are to all appearances doing well. Would It be safe to replant them In spring, or better to wait till autumn? (4) A small eprig from a 'Blue Gage was stuck in the ground last winter; has developed into a sturdy plant. I 3 it worth, while growing on? (1) fipray again with same strength just before buds begin to swell. After the fruit has set spray with Mmc sulphur 1-75, and at this spray twice more at intervals of three weeks, 02) Two feet is deep enough. Work in the guano just before planting, not at present time. Use about naif an ounce to each plant. (3) Transplant the Hfbiscus in spring. (4) The tree would be worth growing on. SHU&B (Mount Eden) writes: I have lost three or four lots of Cabbage, Cauliflower, etc., that have been planted. On putting in another lot 1 examined the defaulters closely, and found the stem ■had been eaten through at the ground line. I found a caterpillar (specimen enclosed) close to the stem, to several cases I was able to unenrth and destroy the grubs, but they are not easy to discover. Can you advise mo bow to get rid of these pests,, if they are connected •with the disappearance of the plants? I am dressing a piece of ground with j yard. Is this likely to be of service, and is the quantity right?— Tie grub is the larvae of the bronze beetle, or grass grub, and is witbout doubt the culprit. The application of sulphur is all right, but I doubt If It will have much effect on the grubs. A soil fumigant. such as' Vaporlte or Apterite, would be much more effectual. Ordinary cheep dtp. or any. coal ar disinfectant diluted with SO to 100 parts of water, and the ground saturated with this a few days before the plants or seeds are put out would also ■be effective. Nitrate of soda and superphosphate is also said to either Mil or make the ground so distasteful that the grubs depart. The disinfectant is, however, the best method. C.A. (Takutai) writes: I have a section, volcanic soil. I bave skimmed anij subsoiled it. I intend to grow early Potatoes, Oueumbere*, Tomatoes and Onions. 1 should like to know what artificial manures to use. also quantities and when to apply for (1) Potatoes, (2) Cucumbers, (3) Tomatoes, (4) Onions. (3) Which is the 'best liquid manure for Tomatoes— nitrate of soda or potash? (6) Would a little nitrate of soda be useful on the' Potatoes?— fX) 'Bonedust, at the rate of half a ton to the acre. (2) For Cucumbers use blood and bone, with an occasional watering with nitrate of soda at the rate of ball an ounce to gallon of water. (3) For Tomatoes I should not advise you to ose any manure. Your ground should be rich enough; in any case, only-use a little bemedust at planting time. (4) Onions, use bonedust as advised for Potatoes, but in addition use one ewt. of sulphate of potash to the acre; also one cwt. nitrate of soda to the acre, applying balf about three weeks after the onions are planted, and the other half about a month later. (0) Do not apply nitrate in any form to Tomatoes: a little superphosphate would be all that is needed. (6) A little nitrate of soda can be applied to the potatoes after they are through the soil, titrate of soda is so soltfble. and is so easily wa-shed out of the soil that it -should only be applied to a crop that is growing, and is able to utilise it at once. SOLDIER (Mangere) writes:—(l) Can you give a list of evergreens for foliage effect? (2) Will a Golden Willow grow large enough for sitting under and to give shade? Mine is open, not a bit like a Weeping Willow. (3) How can I propagate Manettia Bicolor? Is it a perennial? (4) I bought o Rhus Veraielfera for its • autumn beauty, but the leaves die oft minus any colouring. I am told it Is | called a Lioueur or a Lacquer, which Is; right and why? (5) How can I propagate 1 Rhus Succedenea? (6) How should decid- j uous trees be headed back to form! laterals? When they are dormant or in ] leaf? I have in mind a young Japanese j Walnut. (7) How can I prevent rapid j evaporation of moisture during summer of seedlings in pots? I water every day in ' 1 summer, yet they dry hard, and the soil sets hard. (8) For seedlings or potted cuttings what is the best way to use up a heap of decayed vegetable matter?— (1) Aucuba Japonica Variegata, Bamboos, Berberis Bealii, Berberis Bulgarls Purpurea, Burns Variegata, Euonymous Variegatim, Ilex (Holly), Lavuea Xobilis (Sweet Bay). There are also many varieties of variegated conifers and native trees which save beautiful foliage. (2) A Golden

Willow will grow large, but it Is not a weeping variety, and will always have erect branches (3) Manettl Blcolor can be propagated by seed. It is perennial in some positions, but Is easily raised from seed annually. (4) The foliage of Rhus Vernlclfera usually turns red In autumn; yours may be an exposed position and the leaves get blown off before they Ret a chance to colour. It Is known as the Chinese Lacquer Tree, from a wax which exudes from the branches. (5) Rhus Snccedenea can be propagated by cuttings, seed, or from pieces of roots. If the roots are damaged they often throw up suckers, which can be taken off. (6) Head back deciduous trees in spring just before growth commences. (7) Shading is the only method that can be considered satisfactory for saving the watering of seeds or plants In pots. (8) Put the decayed vegetable matter through a seive and use about equal parts of It and coil. It can I be dug into the garden and used in a similar manner to manure. \ —_——_ ON READING A SEED CATALOGUE. . While I sit before my lire Tour pages lead through gardes rows. Into a land of bright desire, Where ecstasy with dreaming grow*. No garden wrought of poesy And flowery words that waft perfume Can make a vision real to mc As do your promises of bloom. Blown buds that long for mc hare lain In memory's quiet dose are here. Upon your pictured page again Glow roses of a bygone year. Oh words and wonder tell but half The beauty you invoke for mej— You arc my garden's epitaph! . You are my garden's prophecy! I ' — Hilda Morris. PLANNING FOR TUG FUTURE. { July is one of the most important months of the gardener's year, for while actual -work outdoors is to a large extent dependent upon the vagaries of the season, yet planning and ordering are matters that can be done indoors in the worst of weather, while activity outdoors is at its' lowest ebb. Real success in gardening is only reached by having thorough and ■well-considered plans ahead. Now is the time to arrange and re-arrange the derails of the coming year's work (on paper )until the desired combinations and sequences are obtained. THE GREENHOUSE IN JULY. July is the most trying of all months for plants indoors or in the greenhouse. The sun is low, with very little influence, and the days are short, which means that practically all the heat required for growing plants in cold districts has to be supplied artificially. It is good practice to keep temperature? a few decrees below normal, to prevent the plants becoming soft and sappy; especially is this so during exceptionally dark weather. Ventilate freely whenever possible, and if the desired night temperature can be maintained with one of the top ventilators slightly open so much the better. Care in watering is important. Don't have set days for doing it. Look over the plants every day, watering only such as need it. and then do it thoroughly; "little and often" in watering is the poorest of poor practice.

liATKYRUS PUBESCENS. This perennial Pea is one of the prettiest climbers for covering a fence or any place up to about Sit or 9ft high. It is a native of Chili, and will be hardy in the majority of places in the Xorth Island. It will stand without any serious effects a few degrees of frost. The flowers are of a pale violet colour, and are carried on a spike bearing as many as 20 to 30 flowers. The individual flowers are about the size of a small Sweet Pea, but, unfortunately, have not the perfume of that flower The spikes of flowers are very fine for indoor decoration, and if the old flowering stems are removed, so as to prevent seeding, the plants will flower f or a long period. Seed can be obtained at almost any seedsman's, and should be sown similar to Sweet Peas. The soil whicli is suitable is one which has been trenched, and a good dressing of manurp added. The position should -c sunny although almost any, except due south would do. Tho seed should be sowd where the plant is to grow. Snw thp seed singly, about Cm apart, and ther if the plants are too thick, remove some ;o other positions; they transplant fajrly well if care, is taken. The plants will not need to be nearer than 3f During the summer an occasional soaking of water shoidd be given, also a good mulching during the dry weather. The best mulch is about 4in of well-rotted stable manure. THE POmSETTIA. Those Who have gardens about Auckland should make a point of planting one or two Poinsettias. There is no winter flowering shrub that can equal the colouring of tho vividly scarlet bracts of this plant. It certainly will not do where heavy frosts prevail. It needs a hot sunny well-drained position and one sheltered from the cold winds, otherwise the scarlet bracts get bruised and broken. CX.ARKIAS. Clarkias have been much improved of late years, and the double sorts are extremely beautiful. One of the best varieties is C'arkia elegan fl.pl. Salmon Beauty. Some plants of thie have been. a gorgeous show for weeks past. It is very useful also as a cut flower, being light and graceful, and lasting well when cut. Seed should bo sown thinly outdoors, and the seedlings "thinned out to fifteen inches apart. The present is a good time to sow. The flowers are borne in spikes, and are of a beautiful orange scarlet colour. GYPSOPHIXA ELEGANS. This hardy annuaj, which may be sown at any time during the year, will flower within a few mouths of sowing. It is one of the very best flowers to mix with sweet peas "or any other flowers for room decorntion. The flowen are very small and white, and are borne in large, loose panicles, giving the appearance and lightness of a fern. It is so easily grown, and is so useful that anybody who requires flowers for decorative purposes should certainly sow a fen seeds of this plant. tUCULUA GRATISSIMA. This winter-flowering shrub is now ir full 'bloom and a large plant is worth seeing. It bears large heads of long tubed pink flowers and can best toe described as a glorified Bouvardia. It will not stand heavy frosts, but about Auckland is quite hardy and everylbodj , I with a garden should have a plant i Give it good, deep, sandy, well drained soil and a position in full sun and a; sheltered a.s possible.* It should be ] pruned hard back after flowering. RHUS. The Rhus is one of the very best trees which make a lovely display ir autumn. The tints of the foliage arc extravagantly rich in crimson, orange and yellow, and equal any bunch oi flowers that can be gathered at this time of the year. Almost any soil will suit it, but it requires a sunny position to 'bring out its true glories. ]ij pruning hard after the foliage has fallon it can 'be kept to a compact size not much larger than many shrubs. Evem garden should have one or more o them. PRUNING HARDY VINES. Now is a good time to prune hardy Vines. The leaves are all down and the plants are at rest. It is a mistake tc defer pruning till the wanner days oj spring, when the rods are beginning to sprout again, because that is the way t< encourage bleeding, which weakens tnem seriously. Single rods are best, but old Vines often consist of a number , of rods and they should be reduced, even if it is necessary to cut away some of the smaller branches. This done, the re- . mainder of the pruning consists in cut j ting Dack the laterals to one or two . good buds, from which to get the bear- , ing laterals for next year. Use a well , sharpened knife, to avoid splitting the \ bark-, or the wood just where the blade _ passes out of the cut. The spurs should ( be kept as short as possible by cutting , to buds close to the base of tha shoot. J AH snags of dead wood and duplicate I shoois from the same spur should be ( cut away, so that only one lateral may j arise from one spur, after sivpernumerl iary sprouts are broken away.

PRUNING AND PLANTING THE YOUNG FRUIT TREES.

Pruning the fruit trees is now in full swing. Young stock which has just been planted should be pruned very hard. The correct method of pruning young trees is to cut away quite fourfifths of the limhs, so as eventually to make them capable of supporting" the weight of future crops. When planting young fruit trees very little manure is required. A handful" of bonedust to each is quite enough. Broken or bruised pieces of roots must he out off with a sharp knife so as to give them a chance of healing. Spread the roots out so as to give them a good chance. Plant the trees as deep as they originaly were in the nursery. Alwavg cut to a leaf Ifaud and not to a fruit hud. The latter are round and plump, whilst the former are long, slight and lie close to the stem.

PRUNING VINES UNDER GIiASS. Most Vines are now at rest, and pruning and cleaning should be undertaken during wet weather. Out back the

PRUNING A VINE ROD. A, spur with last season's growth; B, the shoot cnt back. laterals to one or two good foucle as close as posaiWo to the spurs, for these should be kept ehort from year to year. The laterals, when cut, need not be longer than one inch, but a little shorter will 'be 'better, if the buds permit. Do not split the 'bark while pruning. A well-sharpened knife will be a 'guard against this. Rub off all the loose bark on the rods by grasping them firmly in the hand, and working round them. Be careful not to rub out the buds. When all is done, make up a solution of two to three ounces of soft i soap, or Gishurst Compound, to a gallon of boiling water, and thoroughly paint every part of the rode with a stiff or half-worn painter's "brush. The rods

TIE DOWN EARLY VINES TO INDUCE THEM TO STAKT. may then be tied horizontally along the front of the house (see illustration), to make the buds start evenly all along their length. SOIL FERTILITY. Deficiency in humus is a common case of infertility. A soil deficient or wanting in bumua is less ab!e to withstand drought, lacks cohesion and is unfavour. able to the growth of micro-organisms. The remedy is to apply vegetable matter, which, by its decay, will provide the necessary humus. This can tie done by preen manuring or by the addition of farmyard or compost manure. Afbsence of nitrifying organisms is prejudicial to the satisfactory production of crops, and is caused by want of aera : tion, lack of lime or vegetable matter, bad tillage or drainage. Want of plait food is, of course, a common cauoe of, infertility, especially in the case of la jtT which has been exhausted by repeated' croppings without manuring or rotatidn. 1 . Proper manuring, having due ation to the requirements of both' the soil and the crop, is the remedy. important fact must not be lost .sjfftit' of that the mere addition of is not sufficient unless the soil ie-ln. ' Buch mechanical condition that it' can make use of the manure applied. Manufing alone on land that is badly drained or improperly worked ie not . likely to 'be of any benefit, and is certain not to give proper results.