WOMEN'S WORLD

Auckland Star, Volume LIII, Issue 95, 22 April 1922, Page 20

WOMEN'S WORLD

DRIFT CITYWARDS.

_~ MOVEMENT TO RETARD. The difference between the pleasures of life in the bigger cities and the monotony of intercourse in the country automatically entices the rising generation away from the land. This is one of the great dangers from which Australia suffers, and signs of the same disease are not absent in Xew Zealand life. In the city roads are concreted, the picture palace glows on every street, and places where the young folk meet are everywhere. In the country are clay roads, feet deep in mud, and an isolation for the women and girls killing in its monotony. The danger to the State of this loneliness, which makes of agricultural 'life an isolated slavery, will re-act on the Dominion, for the cities only live 'by the progress of the country. Canadian women were the first to take this matter up and establish "Women's Institutes" for the mutual help and benefit of country women. The first were started twenty years ago, and 1 o-day there are .thousands of members scattered over the great Dominion. The war brought home to England the danger of divorcing the people from the land. Thought was given to the subject, and about five or six years ago the Canadian idea was put in practice in the United Kingdom, and women's institutes began to be formed in the rural villages. And now, to quote 'The Queen": "From Northumberland with thirty-five institutes to Cornwall with each county in England and Wales has a varying, but steadily increasing number of these groups of rural women. A movement that came into existence in the autumn of 1915, and that, in the «utumn of 1921, boasts of 2127 branches, with an aggregate membership of 200,000 women, has in it i.he elements of success. A women's institute is not imposed from above by some benevolent 'autocrat': it is adopted by the women of the country, 'because it offers the means whereby they learn that by working together any desirable object may be achieved. What no individual, however powerful, could accomplish, can be effected when attacked by united effort." One of the favourite debates in these institutes is "Your Pet Economy"; but now that most of the members have confessed to their zeal in saving string, matchboxes, candle ends, and fir cones, outside lecturers are desired who can give real economical and artistic hints to suit all or any class. GasAwv'* - -V> the usual

__c wonderful bridal gtlwn that was worn by Princess Mary was the subject ©f much admiring comment when on exhibition in London as shown in tbe accompanying illustrations. It vtaa displayed on a stand in a gia&a t»=e at St. James' Palacs, and the rsryal palace was open to visitors to view the ■wedding presents at the modest charge of a shilling. The predominant impression of the gown was one of simplicity in spite .of it being a creation of most valuable lace and rich materials. The photo, of the 'bridal gown shows it complete with its train of duchesse satin, draped with lace worn by the Queen at her own wedding. I An ankle-length Princess gown composed of heavy cloth of silver is the 'foundation of the frock. Over this is arranged a tulle overdress on which are wonderful pearl and silver embroideries in lattice design, through which the silver glistens with a soft, indescribable radiance. The transparent sleeves are short and the decolletage is V-shaped. A girdle of silver and pearls encircles the waist, caught* at the side by a posy of orange blossom with falling trails. It is the addition, however, ot the exquisite Honiton lace, worn by Queen Mary at her own wedding, .that endows the frock with an especial charm. The lace is arranged in a deep collar at the hack of the corsage, and falls in graceful . cascades, and a considerable part of the train is edged with it. Especially woven duchess satin shot with finest silver thread skilfully interwoven with the silken warp composes the'full Court train, which is four and ■-half jaxds in length. Indian silver and

view, periiaps, the women in these institutes have been more successful than the men in their clubs in combating village snobbery, and also in establishing little village industries. The scope of the institute is very wide a.ad varied. Monthly meetings are held at which members and visitors give addresses, and also demonstrations of handicrafts, home industries, education, care of children, gardening, beekeeping, and many other subjects of especial interest to country dwellers. So far the little town of Rissington, Hawke's Bay, seems to possess the only institute of this sort in New Zealand. The fact that ithas been going for over a year and is in a very flourishing condition would indicate that other towns should follow so

good an example. The Rissington Institute had a special tahle for its exhibits at the annual A. and P. show there, and showed soap, cheese, preserves, candied peel, hand-woven dress tweeds, scarves, and carpets, articles made from handspun wool, needlework, knitting, slippers, etc., and also had a section of children's work, including baskets, handwoven batbands and hand-spun and knitted garments. It is to be hoped that so useful a movement will spread, and the Rissington Institute notifies it 3 willingness to answer all inquiries j addressed to its president or bon. sec- j retary.

DISTRICT NURSE'S WORK. The annual report of the district nurses, presented at the meeting of the St. John Ambulance Brigade last week, showed the great need in the city which exists. During last year the two nurses paid 8143 visits to 527. cases, and readmitted 04 cases who needed further help, making a total of G2l for the year. This was 540 more visits than was paid the previous year, greater distances have been covered, and more operations : n the homes of the people attended. The work is very varied, and is done among the very poor of the city, who "ould not obtain any other assistance. There are only a few chronic cases on the books, but sickness is always there, and the need for assistance is always Towinar. During th" year the nurses attended 94 cases of operations in the uatients' own homes. Great assistance has been rendered to the nurses by Miss Marriner, who worked as a V.A.D. till her marriage, and the Misses Rhoda and Mary Heather, who have done splendid work in helping with chronic cases. They save up a morninar every week to this fine work, and the

_ilfc embroideries depicting various floral emblems o;f the "Empire ornament it* A tulle nril edged with pearls, falling back from an orange-blossom wreath, which forms a light coronet, completed the Princess' toilette. THE PRESENTS. Our London correspondent says: — •'The presents are, of course, magnificent, but so heterogeneous that 'it would probably have defied the genius of a window-dressing artist to do more with them than has been accomplished by Mr. Percy Armitage, one of ELM. gentlemen ushers, who, by the way, is having the assistance of the first Cranf ord Troop of (Boy Scouts. Mrs. Gaskell would have been pleased! The presents are arranged in the Queen Anne drawing room, the picture gallery, the tapestry room, and the armoury, and the value of the 1300 there displayed has been calculated at • £100,000. No attempt is made to discriminate between donors, or to classify the gifts into rich and poor. One sees the modest offering of a cotton sunbonnet; the work of a Dorset Craft Society, side by side with rich gifts of silver and gold. Side by side with" the gorgeous plate silver gilt of antique pattern presented by the Commons lies a little offering from 'T&e Flower Girls of St. Clement Danes,' the church which is known to all children by the nursery rhyme, 'Oranges and Lemons say the .hells of St. Clement's.' . It is, too, the .-church. now-regarded as the Anzac Church, where yearly the great deeds of Gallipoli are commemorated. The New Zealand greenstone box is in very good company, for it is in the same case as the magnificent parure of diamonds and

patients thoroughly enjoyed their •bright visits. The ladies of the different nursing divisions have assisted in making up new garments and in collecting old linen, but this activity could be largely increased by the members, as the supply of old linen needed for the sick is very low. Many people have old linen which could be washed and sent in to the ambulance station with little trouble, and the need is urgent. The thanks of the nurßes are extended to Misses Murray, Grant, Tapp, Peacock, Tuke, and Mesdamcs Crook, McLeod and Nicholson for help rendered, and from other friends who have helped in various ways, but as the stress in the city at the present time is very great, every one who can supply either old linen or clothes which will be of use, are aaked to think of those in less fortunate circumstances.

COOKERY NOTES.

A correspondent asks for the following recipes:— PUMPKIN TO PRESERVE. Ingredients: To each lib of pumpkin allow lib of preserving sugar, 2 tablespoonsful of lemon juice, the finely grated rind of one lemon, and i teaspoonful of ground ginger. Method: Pare and halve the pumpkin, remove the seeds and slice thinly. Lay the slices on a large dish, covering each layer thickly with sugar, add the lemon juice and let remain for three days. Turn the whole into a preserving pan, add the lemon rind and ginger and i

pint of cold water to three pounds of j fruit, bring slowly to boiling point and j continue the cooking until the slices are quite tender, hut not Irroken. Transfer carefully to an earthen dish, let it remain covered for seven days, then lift the slices of pumpkin into jars and strain the syrup into the preserving pan. Boil the syrup till it thickens, ' pour over the pumpkin, cover and keep in cool place. This gives an excellent imitation of preserved ginger, and is very nice if well done. VEGETABLE MARROW JAM. A correspondent sends the following recipe:—To 61b of vegetable marrow take 61b sugar, 2oz ground ginger (or 41b pres. ginger), the rind and juice of 4 lemons. Peel the marrow and cut into neat pieces, not too small. Cut the lemon rind very fine, add the strained juice, put all in a preserving pan and simmer slowly till clear. Takes about thTee hours. Do not stir. j SPONGE PUDDING. 1 One cup of self-raising flour, one cup of breadcrumbs, one tablespoon of butter, half a cup of sugar, one egg, a little milk. Mix well, and steam for ,two hours.

i sapphires given by the King and Queen, the bride's brothers, the Queen 01 Spain, and the bridegroom, among them the Queen's wonderful sapphire brooch of great size and depth of colour. On the same shelf of the case as the New Zealand gift lies the rope of pearls given by the girl guides, the lovely emeralds given by the Koyal Navy in the form of ft neglig9 pendant. VA.D.'s have given a tiara containing some fine emeralds. "The missal given by the Queen to the Princess, which she used during the service is shown, as are a multitude of beautifully tooled examples of the bookbinder's art. There is indeed a small library of fine books in fine bindings. Below the Reynolds portrait of George 111. were set the gift of the King and Queen to the bridegroom—a set of massive silver candelabra, and near by the silver salver, 'Mary, from her bridesmaids,' with their signatures engraved on it. The variety of gifts is astonishing. In furniture alone —almost without exception antique—one could set up a museum showing all schools. There are clocks, one quaint little grandfather clock is a miniature standing about four feet high. There are a number of stools of various kinds, music stools, fenderseats, foot-etools, and among them a petit pont stool from the Prime Minister, Mrs. Lloyd George, and Miss Megan Lloyd George. Lots of~ duplicates naturally. With clocks one can deal by distributing them, but there are. umbrellas, writing cases, bibelots of one hundred and one kinds. Even a big black cat which sat derisively gazing on us ai we wandered round the room trying to create a jnental record of this vast and varied collection." . _

| TO CORRESPONDENTS. i 'EN'QTJTRIER OGrey Lynn) sends three Apples for identification: (1) Oblnemuri. (2) Ballarat 'Seedling, <(3) Grannie Smith. TECOMA (Otabuhu).—-What manure would be best to push along a Tecoma and iPittospornm hedge planted last year?— Boned-ust wjwu at tbe rate of about two ounces to the yard run. Sow It now and hoe it in. <51vo another application In the late spring. N.B. (Rooky JCook). —Walnut trees once in bearing need no pruning. You would be unwise to cut it at all. ( You prize the tree for its 'beauty, and that is sufficient to warrant its existence. The cause of the darkcoloured mite is due to a bacterial disease which affects them. Some years it is much worse than others, but in any case no cutting or pruning can remedy It. KfXCmANT (Mount (Eden) sends the followlns queries:—ifj.) Once IRose .plants are established can they he lifted again and. re-planted in a more suitable position? (2) If so. innet roots be lifted out entire, or can they be cut iback? (3) Can Hibiscus cuttings that have formed roots be safely transplanted, and best time to do so? (4) Do Japanese AValmits and Prunes do well in and abont Auckland? —(1) Yes, ißose .plants can be lifted and transplanted. (2) Cut back any long roots but not more than necessary. (3) Hibiscus cuttings <-an be transplanted safely; now is a Kood time to do It. (4) Both Japanese Walnuts and Prunes do well about Auckland. EDEN OMount Eden) askg;—a) W_at is the difference "Between quicklime anil hydraulic lime? (2) Is hydraulic lime gooci for the garden? (3) If carrots were sown in soil in 'which superphosphate had been raked to the depth of fire Inches, would the superphosphate be wasted? (4) Would it be better to sow the superphosphate with the seed? (5) What fa tbe correct quantity to apply to a square yard?—fn Quicklime is lime as it comes newly burnt from the kiln: hydraulic lime is prepared for a particular purpose. (2) All forms of lime are good for the Karden, but ordinary quicklime is the best. (3) The superphosphate would not be wasted. (4) Yes. (5) Apply about an ounce to a yard run of drill, or about three ounces to a square yard. KAIRAKA CS'ewton) asks:—'(B.) When is the best time to dress the ground with lime. and how much per square ya'd? Should It be dry or slaked; should it be dug in? (2) I have a Plum tree six years old: It has just started beartne. Would a cood pruning do it good?— Apply ■the lime dry, using about two ounces to the square yard. Apply it on the surface, and rake it in. Do not apply stable manure at the same time. The 'best method is to apply the stable manure now and the lime in the spring. C 2) The (Plum tree should not be heavily pruned. Cut out any useless inside branches so as to admit light to the middle of the tree. Shorten back about half their length any long leading growths. Too severe pruning may cause the tree to make too much wood. LEARXER (Penrose) asks: (1) When to sow Tomatoes In a hot house, what temperature is required, whether warmer at night than In the day? (2) What is the time to put in early potatoes, and which are the best croppers? (3) When Is the right time to 'handle Rhubarb and Asparagus beds which are overgrown with j weeds? (4) When Is the time to prune fruit trees?—(l) Tomato seeds can be ! sown in a hothouse at almost any time: the point la where do you wish to grow 1 ?,_e plants? If you intend to fruit the Vlants in the house, you can sow mi June or July. If you only intend to B*ow plants for outdoor culture, sow lc August or September. The temperature must not be too higlh, somewhere about 60 degrees by night and 65 degrees by 4ay would do, but allowance must be ma—c for heat and ventilation given ac-> corflngly. Do not try and keep up a great heat by keeping the house closed night and day. (2) Early Potatoes can be planted from July onwards and the .most sellable variety is Gamekeeper. (8) 'If fh» Rhubarb bed is In a very bad way I should recommend you to lift half of it now and re-plant in some good wellmanured soil. The other half can be lifted neat year when the newly planted lias became established. Meanwhile keep the weeds down by hoeing and give the bed a good dusting of superphosphate or stable manure Sf it can be procured. The Asparagus beds should be cleaned as coon .as the tops have turned yellow; that will be about now or next month. •Cut down the tops and well clean tlhe beds of weeds. Then give a goo 6 dressing of stable manure, if possible, pitting it on about six Inches thick. Faillfj? that give a dressing of bonedust at the rate of about half a pound •to a square yard. Sow the bonedust

after hoeing; sive it a stood ra-rajr in. then cover with two or three inches of new soil. Nest season from the start the beds must be kept clean and free of weeds. If yon are not already in possession of Brett's "Gardening Guide." t>ny it at once; it deals with every subject, and will save you time and money. GARDEN MAKING. The speculating house builder very often in his peculiar fashion lays out the garden'for the purpose of selling the house, or else lets it go a mass of weeds, pieces of wood, pipes, iron and other remains of the various eceteras that go to make a house. When a man enters into possession he finds that little will grow but weeds, and they flourish best on what was meant to be the path. Often the beginner makes one or two trials of the sowing of several packets of seed, the only use of which so far as he is concerned is to give trade to the seed merchant and food to the slugs and snails. The first work to be done is to thoroughly overhaul the place bit by bit. Get all the rubbish cleaned up and either burnt or burled. Get all the weeds and grass mown down with the scythe, for rubbish and long grass is the home of slugs, etc. It will take time, but the work is healthy, and if we look to the future the Teward will be certain, for good intelligent work never yet failed in yielding satisfactory results. The first thing to be done is to make a rough plan of the garden as we want it to be. The autumn is the time for planting and re-arranging its main features, details can be worked out afterwards.

CONIFERS FROM CUTTINGS. Autumn is the best time of the year to put in cuttings of Conifers or Pines, as they are commonly called. Choose a shady border in a well drained spot, and mix some sand with the soil. A thin layer of sand on top of the soil will be an advantage, for when dibbling ■in the cuttings a little sand will be carried down to the bottom of the hole and the base of the cutting will rest upon it. A light well-drained situation is absolutely necessary. .In preparing the cuttings these should be taken from the outside of the plant, where they have been exposed to light and air. A length of four to six inches is a suitable one, and it is necessary that they consist entirely of the present year's growth, with a heel of older wood at the base. To prepare the cuttings for insertion strip off the branches, then with a sharp knife remove any irregularities and cut off the bottom shoots for 1J or 2 inches in order to allow of their being inserted up to that depth in the soil. It is necessary in the caee of long-leaved kinds, such as Yews, Crytomeria, and Junipers to cut off the leaves or "needles" before insertion, but with the smaller ones it is not needed. In any case care must be taken that the back of the cuttings is not at all injured otherwise decay is apt to set in. When dibbling in the cuttings it is important that the base should rest upon the bottom of the hole, and that the soil is well closed round it.

GROWING BTS-ACINTHS INDOORS.

Hyacinths are perhaps the most beautiful flowers you can grow indoors for winter blossoms. The large Hyacinth bulbs cost more than other bulbs, but they are worth it. Buy your bulbs from a reliable nurseryman.

Order the single rather than the double flowered varieties. They are more satisfactory for use indoors. The larger the bulb the better the flower spike. In choosing them select those which are firm when pinched between thumb and finger and which show a lieaithy bud at the top. All you need to do to give this bud a chance to grow is to give it water and air and a temperature which at first is cool but not freezing. So it happens that you can grow Hyacinths in water, in soil, or in fibre.

In Water.—There is a peculiar interest in growing Hyacinths in Hyacinth glasses. To see the long white roots projecting downward to the bottom of the glass gives one a better idea of the plant's growth than to just imagine them hidden in the soil. The cleanliness of the method is also in its favour; there is no dirt and no drip.

Two forma of these. Hyacinth glasses are in general use: One, <the Belgian, is tall with straight glides; the other, the Tye, is broad with rounded sides.

The use of the glass is very simple. Select a large, firm Hyacinth bulb; fill the glass with clear water; set the bulb in the top of the glass and then place in the cellar or in a dark, cool place where there is no danger of freezing. Leave the bulbs there until tihe long roots fill the glass and 1 the crown of leaves has broken apart. This is important. If taken out too soon, failure is likely to result. Then bring to a light, cool room and watch the growth of leaves and flowers. In Garden Soil.—To grow Hyacinth's" in garden soil select a flowerpot of somewhat larger diameter ijhan the bulb. Fill it with soil to within two inches of the top. Set the bulb on the soil and fill in around it. Water thoroughly and place on the cellar floor or a shelf. Throwover it a piece of burlap or old carpet and leave it for six or eight weeks while ■the roots develop and the crown breaks apart. Water it once a week or so, as needed. Then bring it to a cool, light room, where it will soon send up leaves and flowers.

In Fibre.—The special advantage of growing Hyacinths in the prepared fibre now offered for sale by most seed houses is that you can have the flowers in attractive, water-tight, flower jars that can be set on the dining table or mantel without injury to the surface.

Fill the receptacle nearly full of fibre, placing a little charcoal at the bottom of the vase, put the bulb in, and fill around it with more fibre. Then saturate the fibre with water and set away in a cool, dark place for six or eight weeks. When the crown breaks apart bring to the light of the living room. SLUGS AND SNAILS. A well known Sweet Pea grower writing in an English paper says:—"All kinds of devices for getting rid of these posts have been tried—lime, soot, traps, Turnips, and countless others. I suppose they all answer to a certain extent, but to my mind the simplest and far and away the best is to smooth your ground very carefully from 0 to 8 inches on each side of your plants and cover this, after you have planted, completely with sharp sand. Indeed, I myself do thiß with everything in the garden. Phloxes and all young growing stuff. Slugs cannot crawl on sand, and it has the advantage of remaining the same either in wet or dry weather, whereas soot or lime in wet weather is worse than useless. There are several good slug traps on the market, but I have never known the sand to fail."

HOW TO PRESERVE ROSES FOR WINTER. Here is a plan for treating Rosebuds so that they may be used during the dull days of -winter. First of all we must get the flowers, and these should, of course, be in good condition. It is best to pick the buds before the blossoms are fully expanded. We must now dissolve a small amount of candle wax; this we may easily do by holding a tin lid with the wax in it over a flame. Next take each Rosebud and dip the stalk end in the wax. Do this several times until a email lump of -wax is formed on the end of the stalk. In this way we shall seal up the cut part, and prevent the escape of any sap. Each Rosebud is now wrapped up in some nice tissue paper, and the flowers are then stored away in a closefitting box or tin. Months afterwards when it is desired to revive the Rosebuds the following steps should be taken: Unwrap the flowers and then with a pair of sharp scissors, cut off about 1 inch of the lower part of the stalk. Then place the cut end in a bowl of hot water, and you will be surprised to see how quickly the flower expands. Afterwards the Roses may be placed in vases in the usual manner. SOWING HOLLYHOCK.

ROOT PRUNING. Root pruning is an important garden work that is imperfectly understood by many amateurs; in fact, it is difficult to persuade some that cutting the roots can do any good to the tree. Nevertheless, it is a fact that with fruit trees that are making a lot of gross, vigorous shoots, and do not produce fruit, the best way to make them fruitful is to root-prune. Young, newly - planted ■fruit trees are usually the worst offenders in this respect, and Plums, perhaps, are the worst of all. They make long, strong shoots that do not bear any flowers the following spring, and the short-pointed growth of moderate vigour that the experienced cultivator always aims at obtaining is nowhere to be seen. Young trees, however, are ' not the sole offenders. Older trees that are planted in rich soil or receive too liberal applications of liquid manure or too rich top-dressings often make gross, unfruitful shoots that nothing will get rid of but root-pruning. It is of no use to cut back tbe offending growths, for that only makes matters worse—still stronger shoots will result. If they are touched with the knife at all they must be clean cut out. When root-pruning is being carried out it will usually be found that some strong, ' "tap" roots, as they are called, have ! made their way straight down. These ; are responsible for the gross shoots i above ground, and must be pruned.

The first thing to do is to open a trench some 4ft away from the stem of the tree; the trench must be made all round the stem. A distance of 4ft from the latter is sufficient in the case of young trees, but when the specimen to •be root-pruned has been established for some years in its present position, and has developed into a large tree, then it would be unwise to dig a trench around it only 4ft from the stem; the trench i should be at least 6ft away. The same

remarks would apply in the case of old and large wall fruit trees. In that case also the trench should not be made nearer the stem than Oft. The trench should be made 2ft deep, or rather more if the tree is old, and wide, enough to allow one to work comfortably. Then with a fork draw away the soil from the roots into the trench, more particularly from beneath", so as to find all the gro3s roots which are causing the mischief. When these are found, cut them off with a sharp knife; this will cause small fibrous roots to form. In doing the work take great care not to damage the thin fibrous roots, for they chiefly supply the tree with nourishment. Continue the work until it is thought the worst roots have been checked. As fresh roots are bared, cover them lightly with soil or mats, so as to prevent their drying and shrivelling, which they will soon do if left exposed. When rearranging the roots, alter the course of the thick ones which were shortened, placing them in a horizontal position «o as to prevent them going straight down again, probably into bad soil. Cover the roots carefully in several layers, all placed horizontally, and make each layer firm. It is important to make the soil firm as rearranging the roots goes on, otherwise it will sink and carry the roots down with it.

HEDGE PLANTING.

When planting hedges put in the best plants to suit the situation. On a small section there is not room for any wide growing subject. The best kinds for small sections are Pittosporum and Tecoma. Wherever you are going to plant have a look round and see what is the general hedge in use. The ground for the hedge should receive some attention. It is all very well just to plant the hedge in the rough ground without any preparation and expect it to grow welL The hedge is planted to last for years and deserves to have the ground well prepared. Another thing, hedge plants that are put into prepared ground will grow faster and better, and. this is a great consideration in most cases. Prepare and manure the ground for the hedge as well as for a rose bed or for fruit trees, and it will soon be of value

XEAF HOTCD,

Leaf mould of good quality can be used for a, great variety of purposes. As a top-dressing for bulbs, for shrubs generally, and little mounds over the roots oi- perennials after the tops have died down, it is unsurpassed. It* use in potting soils is well known. Collect the leaves into an odd corner as they fall from the trees. Stack carefully and tread them down well. When they have all been collected cover with turves turned grass side down, or, better still, stable manure. The time it takes to rot varies somewhat, but m about nine months it can be used by putting it through a

PREPARING FOR FRUIT TREES

The work of preparing the land for the trees or bushes should be put in hand at the same time as the order ie given, as a little settlement of the soil is inevitable, in fact, where double digging is practised it will be considerable, and rt is advisable to allow the soil to settle down before planting. Manure is seldom necessary except ,; n the case of very poor soil as it merely causes strong rank growth, which does not bear; but anything in the way of burnt rubbish, wood ash or a little bone dust may be given with advantage. In the case of stone fruit, where the soil is deficient : in lime,, a dressing should be given; this as a top-dressing after

TRANSPLANTING EVERGREEN SHRUBS AND TREES. Evergreen shrubs and trees can be most safely moved during autumn, and if there is a best time it is from the middle of March to the middle of April The success or otherwise depends upon the way in which the work is done an/i the attention given afterwards. Whe» plants are moved from a sheltered position to an exposed one, some temporary shelter or wind-break should be given the first season after planting. Then when hot weather set 3in a little shade such as can be easily erected by fastening a mat to two stout poles will save the choice plant's life, with an occasional damping over with the or hose and a mulch of some non-conducting material over the roots. Generally short grass will do. If the plants are moved carefully, and as many roots as possible saved in lifting, the roots carefully spread out when planting and made firm, - no plant ought to die unless neglected. Many people never think about syringing or even watering till the foliage turns brown, and then it is generally too late. If plants have to be bought, always pur- " chase from a nursery where transplanting is regularly done. CHIVES. These were at one time found in ev«j garden, but nowadays one seldom sees them. They are a variety of onion, with small grass-like foliage, and it is this foliage which is cut off and used. The crop is perpetual, as these top 3 grow again after cutting. Chives make a nice edging in the vegetable garden. Beyond lifting and dividing the clumps every few years they need no special treatment, and wiil practically grow anywhere. Ti£ tops hare a more delicate flavour tbaJ; onions, and are useful in salads and for endless culinary purposes. — "■- ■; ' ,T»