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WOMEN'S WORLD

THE UNSPEAKABLE DUMMY.

Travellinfr by train a few weeks ago, writes a nurse, in the same compartment as ourselves was a young mother and a beautiful little bahy hoy of about lo months. lie had the inevitable' dummy, with ring attached, hanging by a cord down the front of his .dress. Wo were sitting near hy. and the little fellow, who was lull of life and energy, and who was playing about in the carriage, soon made friends with us. Naturally we began to chat with his mother, and she told us the baby was her only child, and an only grandson as well, so he was very much the apple of her eye, and she was evidently most devoted to him. The lady who was with mc remarked that it was a pity he had a dummy, saying that hy using it there was a great risk of deforming the child's mouth nnd ruining his teeth. The mother replied that she knew some people said dummies were not good, but that if my friend had a baby she would probably u.?e one too when he becomes cross. "At any rate." said she, looking with pride at the beautifully-made, plump little chap with rosy cheeks and shining eyes, "it has not done him any harm so far, h:.s it?" It is one of the amazing points of view of mothers that they always speak in this way. They are quite prepared to persist in a wrong course until they can see actual definite harm, which by that time is more or less irreparable. Women constantly say: "I know such and such a child who had a. dummy, and his teeth are all right." They don't realise that the child's jaws, teeth, and digestion would have been still better had no dummy been used, and that for one case where they can see no damage there would be a dozen cases where the evil • effects would he clear to them if pointecf out. The fact is that defective jaws, teeth, and digestion are predisposed to by weakness of the mother a"d by artificial feeding as well as by neglect of any of the factors making for good health, eiich as fresh air. exercise, regularity, etc.; but the more immediate exciting causes of mouth and teeth defects and adenoids are the use of the dummy, the longtube feeder, and subsequent pap-feeding. If the last three were avoided, and reasonable care were exercised by mothers with regard to the hygiene of themselves and their off-spring, we should hear no more about bad teeth and adenoids, which are causing such universal alarm throughout the civilised world to-day. It is not suggested that because a particular child used the dummy therefore it must show characteristic deformities of mouth, teeth, etc.: but that the great majority of children so treated do show such defects: and these will be aggravated by neglect of care and attention in regard to any of the factors making for health. The most deplorable cases are seen where all the adverse factors mentioned are brought to bear in the case of a particular child who has been delicate at birth: whereas a child exceptionally a-obu-t at birth, subjected to only one harmful influence —say, for instance, the use of the dummy—may escape not really "scot free," but to outward appearance undamaged, and actually more normal than the average child of civfli- I sation. j

To return to the baby in the train. We told the mother about the evils arising from the use of the comfdrter, but I fear our counsel fell on deaf ears, as the dummy was frequently popped into his mouth even when there seemed no excuse whatever for doing bo. Presently the little man got down on to the floor and crept along the passageway, which had been trodden and retrodden by passengers going from carriage to carriage, the dummy, of course, sweeping along the floor. After this excursion the abomination found its way into his mouth as usual.

Here is an example of a devoted mother who had heard something in a vague way about the evils which from the use of the dummy, and yet who evidently did not consider the matter of sufficient importance to cause her to inquire further.

In connection with the rearing of children the dummy is everywhere recognised by the leading doctors and dentists as one of the greatest evils of the day, and it is humiliating to reflect that we women cannot be prevented from continuing its use without an Act of parliament. If parents could once be brought to realise the cruel, lifelong wnong which they are doing to their dependent little ones by forcing upon them such pernicious habits, the "Lon<"'tube feeder" and the so-called "Comrorter" would soon disappear from the Dominion.

COOKERY NOTES

ON COOKING MEAT.

It is essential that housekeepers should remember that there is a certain amount of waste in meat when it is being cooked. The fatter the meat the greater the waste. Beef, out of four pounds, will lose one pound in boiling, one pound three ounces in baking, and one pound four ounces in roasting. Mutton loses out of four pounds, 14 ounces in boiling, and one pound four ounces in baking or roasting. Veal, pork, and lamb should be thoroughly cooked, not retaining any regravy. At the same time care should be taken not to dry the meat up. Gently simmer when boiling meat as by quick boiling it becomes hard. Pickled or salted meats should be soaked before they are cooked. SPANISH SOUFFLE. Some small sponge cakes, red currant jelly, whites of 4 egg 3, sugar to sweeten, essence of vanilla to flavour. Take about six small sponge cakes, cut in half, and put together with red current jelly, cut into small pieces. Pile up on a glass dish, and soak them well with some nicely flavoured fruit syrup, brandy, or shorn. When soaked, beat the whites of the eggs quite stiff, and sweeten with sugar; allow one teaspoon of sugar to each white of egg, flavour with vanilla; mask the cakes entirely over with the egg, and put in a very cool oven to dry. POINTS TO BE EEMEMBEEED IN STEAMING PUDDINGS. (1) The water over which the pudding is steamed must be kept boiling. (2) The basin should not be quite filled with the mixture, so as to leave room for the pudding to rise. L 3- 1 . 6 basin must be w eU greased, and the top covered with a greased paper to prevent the condensed steam on the lid from dropping into the pudding. (4) Puddings containing custard and •ouffles should be steamed slowly

FASHION NOTES

i'By AN EXPERT.)

PARIS, December 8. There was skating in Paris yesterday again—real ice skating. Men and women carrying skates were to be seen making their way to the lakes in the Bois de Boulogne. Round and Tound the skaters glided, getting very warm in quick movement, and strenuous lessons in waltzing were taken by those who wished to shine later in the fashionable haunts for winter sports among the mountains. It was a very pretty scene, of course, occasional gleams of sunshine lighting up the picture, with the rhythmic swing of the skaters in smart short skirts and handsome furs. It was like pre-war times, and the afternoon was all too short for the public, on tho ice, as well as for those looking on. It is astonishing to sse how many French girls are skating unchapcroned with a man friend. As one who. in pre-war days, knew something of French life, 1 have been profoundly astonished at the immense strides which, since the war, have been made in the emancipation of the jeune fille. Before the war unmarried girls of the better classes never walked abroad unaccompanied, while even married women would not have considered it proper to visit the Grands Boulevards on foot. But nous avons change tout cela maintenant, and the i French jeune fille is now seen shopping alone, taking her morning consti- ! tutional in the Bois unaccompanied, ! except by her pet dog. and even taking j tea with a man friend. j

The present-day style of dress gives a wonderfully youthful silhouette. Simple in line, there is no exaggerated scantiness. Many of the new frocks destined lor girls are made in one piece, particularly those for afternoon wear. A narrow black patent leather belt, with a gold buckle, or a sash of black satin, knotted at the sides and weighted with passementeries, completes the toilette.

Taffetas is very often used for this sort of costume, and crepe moraccain and crepe de ohine are likewise favourites. Fancy 'buttons, preferably matching in colour the costume, also make a pretty and practical trimming. Black velvet is being much used by Paris dressmakers for new models, and black velvet hats are very becoming for the fair girl. There are plenty "of women who are unable to resist the attraction of a black velvet hat, and for dresses the material is readily adopted. If for out-door wear it is usechiefly, if not exclusively, 'In black, or the darkest brown; indoor dresses are in the gayest hues.

Velvet is in the hands of the 'bootmakera for Bmart hoots and walking shoes, of the milliners, the tailors, and mantlemakers, and, of course, of the dressmakers, and it promises to become a uniform. Velvet in the iball-room is seen in delicate, and also deep rose hues, in orchid, nattier blue md violet, and In eat_—illation with fine lace forms the base of every toilette for great occasions and galas this season. OUR SKETCH. Evening dresses of coloured lace are much liked this sea-son, and in our illustration we have a striking exaimplo. Carried out in jade-green Italian Met

and Point de Paris laces'combined, this frock achieves distinction by reason of the pointed side, panels and the uneven hemline. A oeinture of "La France" roses in pastel shades encircle the waist.

HOUSEHOLD HINTS.

'Salt used in sweeping carpets will keep out the moths. The crusts that are trimmed off sandwiches need not be wasted; they can be grated and then used for puddings and dishes of various kinds. Salt in water is the best thing to clean basketware with. The simplest way of dealing with moths is to keep them out of the house altogether, and this can be done at the expense of a few pints of turpentine. Sprinkle the rooms with this once a week, or thereabouts, when the moths begin to hatch out, and they will all die or leave the building. Repeat it if they appear again. Sprinkle a little in drawers where woollen clothes are, and the moths will not come near them. HOMELY MEASURES. These may be useful If scales and measures are not at hand. One -reakfastcupful=pb or Ipt (flour, milk, etc.). One teacupful=Jl'b or ipt (flour, milk, etc.). One tablespoonful=loz. One des_ertepoonful=Aoz. One teaspoonful=|oz. The average weight of a hen's egg is 2oz, and is equal to two tablespoons. EXCEPTIONS. Golden syrup and all kinds of fat weigh heavier than flour. Breadcrumb- and rolled oats weigh lighter than flour. By a spoonful is meant a spoon which contains as much above as i 3 in the bowl of the spoon.

TO CORRESPONDENTS. ItriY (Whangareß writes:—l am growing Tobacco for my own use. and will you tell mc «hvn to harvest the leaf and how to dry and cure It. —A paragraph on this subject will be given next week. J.S.B. IWhangarci) asks the following questions:—(l) How host to transplant the common gorse. I wish to make a qulcksrowlntf bedim. Would a little lime added to the soil he help to the plant? <_> I am .crowing Black Wattle. Would manure be of any service to the seedlings';—(ll There shouid be no trouble in transplanting the common gorse, so long _s the plants are not too large. Now is the time to do the work. Seed would make the best job. Manure should not he necessary, but llmo would help it. i_) Black Wattle would be benefited by a dressing of basic sla?. Lime would be all Tight, hut not so good as the slug. Do not use both manures at one time. FIG TREE (Tnkapnnal sends some fruits and leaves of a Pig Tree, and asks wliv the fruits do not develop and the edges or the leaves go brown.—The reason of the fruits not developing Is because they are not properly fertilised. From the size of the leaves I should say the tree Is growing too well, and is making foliave at the expense nf fruit. Probably it will become more prolific with age. There is only one remedy that you can apply, and that is to root prune the tree. Pig well around and down under if. and cut through some of the thickest roots, at a distance of about three feet from the stem. This will cheek the growth, and prohably cause the tree to bear. Tula work should be done duriug June or July.

AGRICOI/A (St. Heller's Bay) asks for the fil Nnme-s <,r twelve flowering shrubs suitable for a north-west slope of volcanic soil. (21 What to plant on southerly slope to (five shelter quickly. I thought of Gums and Acemena.—(l) Buddlela VeitchiAnu. rVilllstemon spclosuui, Ohneniistes* gesneroldls. Daphne aflora, Dlosma erlcoldes. Hibiscus oamdenl. Hydrangea hortenste otaksa grandiflora. Hydrangea ipanlenlata. Magnolia st»llnta. Timnrix gallica, Spirea Reeves—, H.pl., Viburnum tbmentosum, Rhussuciedenea. t_) Aoemena woulj make the best-looking hedge, an<i is fairly nuick growing, but A*nrln lopantha or Alblzzia lopantba, as It shonld be called, is the quickest shelter of anything- Sow seed in spring. The Acemenas could he plnnted between if the Acacia is kept cut out as the Aemenais _row.

IN THE GARDEN.

The rains of the past week have in ■many cases made tbe ground so sodden that it has limited outdoor work, It is not advisable to try and work the ground when it is wet, far,better to wait for a few days. In the vegetable portion there are sure to be some odd corners that will require cleaning up, and no better time than the present can bo found. Where empty ground wag sown •with Oats, etc., for digging in, the crops are coming on nicely, and at the first opportunity -hould be dug and another lot sown; this method of sowing soiling crops, as they are called, helps to keep down weeds. Pea sticks, etc., should be gathered up and neatly stacked in a dry place if possible. Now is the time to clear out the haunts of slugs and snails by clearing away all rubbish, etc., that they breed in. A clean garden is always the least troubled with pests. Seed Potatoes in store should not be kept too dark; allow them plenty of light so that the shoots are kept green. In the flower garden there is an autumn appearance, but at the same time plenty to do. Many tall subjects, such as Cos-; mea, Dahlia, Chrysanthemums, etc.,! need constant attention to staking and tying. With the Dahlias tbere is a daily need for the removal of dead blooms. Many of the weak, inside shoots should ,'be cut away, otherwise the plants get so large, bulky, and top heavy that it is almost impossible to pet stakes to hold them up. The Dahlia will stand j plenty of knife, and if properly done,' the result will be the production of strong shoots from the base, and a wellbalanced plant that will carry as many blooms as is necessary. This is the Chrysanthemum season, and the busiest time of the year for the grower. Disbudding, feeding, and tying is constant just now, and when to this is added spraying for aphis, etc., well, the "mum" grower bas not to look long for a job. It is sad to walk round gardens and to see tbe general treatment afforded to Chrysanthemums. What is generally seen is large, unwieldy clumps lying about in all directions or with a piece of string whinped round slinging them to the fence. Disbudding is unknown, possibly because to commence to disbud some of the clumps, or rather masses, would be impossible. What a pity that people cannot be induced to dig up and destroy such clumps and in place put in young plants; these, pinclied twice during the season, and properly staked would give them good blooms, "which it is impossible to get from many of the unkempt masses that can be seen. The best treatment for sircli at present would be to remove most of the stems, just leaving sufficient that, when staked, they will nave room to open the blooms. Disbudded, sucb may produce a few fair flowers, but if left alone they are only rubbish and breeding places for slugs, etc. Chrysanthemums will stand plenty of feeding just now: use artificials whilst the weather is so wet. Feed rioht up to the time the buds show colour, then discontinue at once. Bulb planting 1 should be pushed on with all speed when the soil is dug enough. Anemones and Ranunculi can be planted and all garden* will be the better for a good large bed of _ith of them. Get all hedges cut, and turn up the edges of the lawn, so as to

have everything looking neat and trim for the winter. Leaves are falling and should be gathered up and stacked to rot, and form leaf mould. In small gardens heaps of dead leaves are out of place, and it is muCh better to dig them in the ground as they aro gathered up. In the fruit section the ground should be prepared for any planting that is to take place this autumn. Do not leave everything till the last moment, and then have to rush the job. Orders for fruit trees should be placed ._ soon as possible to ensure getting Vhat you want. CYCLAMEN. Strikingly beautiful in form and colour of flower, useful for cuttingblooming as they do in the winter and early spring, the Cyclamen stands alone as a plant that should be found in every garden. Especially is this so in tbe Auckland district, where the Cyclamen can be successfully grown out-doors. The present is a good time to sow Cyclamen seed if obtainable. Cyclamen seed is rather .peculiar in the irregular manner in which it germinates; often some seed from one packet will germinate in a few weeks, while others will take many months. The. older the seed, the longer it takes, and the more irregular it is in germinating; hence it is a good system to sow the seed as soon as it is obtained, no matter what time in the year it is. Fresh sown Cyclamen seed will usually germinate as regular and _s quickly as | any other seeds. The seed should be sown in a flower pot filled with nice, I light sandy soil. Cyclamen seed—that j is, seed of first-class strain and varieties I is very expensive, and in consequence | a very large pot is not required for a j packet of seed. It should be lightly covered, and the pot put in a shady position. The soil in the pot will need to bo kept moist, and on no account should this ibe forgotten, otherwfee if the seed commences to germinate and is then dried, it will be all over it. As soon as the plants have made one leat they should be dibbled out, either into pots or boxes, or into a specially prepared bed of light sandy soil. Whichever method is used, it is essential that the position should be shady and the plants kept growing. Seed sown now should give good flowering plants in eighteen months, provided they are kept growing without a check. In England of Cyclamen are raised from seed every year to supply the markets. No attempt is made to grow these plants the second year from the bulbs, growers maintaining that more flowers ,can _6 obtained from seedlings than /from old bulbs. In this district where i Cyclamen can be grown out of doors, ■this does not apply, and bulbs of almost any age will give quantities of flowers, , for, if properly treated, they will improve with age. Do not make the soil too firm and use plenty of leaf mould. iWhen planting, some recommend the conn or bulb to bo just below the surface, while others say that it should bo 1 onjy half buried, whilst others again say it should be on the surface; the secret seems to be that tup bulb requires to he kept moist, and if the plants are well shaded and watered, this is easily obtained. The best method is to mulch the bed with sifted leaf-soil or wellrotted manure to a depth sufficient to just cover the bulbs. Dried bulbs are offered by seedsmen, and if these are obtained, the attention will ibe similar to the above. Cyclamen culture requires shade, water, well-drained soil, plenty of leaf-mould or well-rotted manure. THE SCILLAS OR SQUILLS. The Squills are beautiful spring flowering bulbs, especially for permanent planting, as they do not require moving very often. Perhaps the -best known and ' one of the most useful is Scilla Nutans, the common English Bluebell. This does particularly well in Auckland, and is very good for planting close under trees, and is one of the few flowering plants that will survive and grow close up to the trunks of Macrocarpas. There are , white and pink varieties, but the original blue variety is as good as any. Another closely allied sort, Scilla Campanulata, the Spanish Bluebell, is very similar, out has slightly larger blossoms. Either variety, however, is worth planting in large numbers in shady places, where little else will grow. ASPARAGUS PLUMOSUS. Asparagus plumcsus planted against a wall in a sunny position makes a capital background for Bouvardias, Carnations, and most of the hardy annuals. As a cover for a blank wall the same vine is a great success. It might be used in company with one or other of the Begonias, with Wistaria, or one of the climbing Roses. SAVING SEED. Seeds of many annuals and other plants will be obtainable from time to time. The seed vessels should be collected in dry weather as they ripen and laid on sheets of paper in a dry room. A pleasant occupation for wet days is the separation of the seed and the storing tt in packets till sowing time.

PANSIES. The Pansy is a flower beloved by all, even as children, with that little patch of ground known as "my garden" there was no flower which pleased as well. Perhaps it waa that the Pansy stood more rough handling than most plants. There are three distinct sections of the Pansy—the Show, or English Pansy; the Fancy, or Scotch or Belgian Pansy; and the bedding Pansy or Viola. The Fancy Pansy is the most popular section at the present day. They are noted for their large size and rich and varied colours. The several shades in one flower associate to produce blooms of exquisite beauty. It is possible to have blooms tbe whole year round, at some seasons (better than others perhaps, for the Pansy hits a great dislike for hot, dry weather, but if given due shade and a cool, moist root run, it will continue to bloom, irrespective of seasons. The Pansy is essentially a small garden flower, for it owes it development almost entirely to the. efforts of tho cottagers. For spring or summer bedding there are few iplants that can equal the Pansy and Viola. The plants are not weedy or rampant, and are not of greatly varying heights. The flowers are carried well above the tuft of bright green foliage, in large quantities, and over a long period. The colours and substance of the blooms are good, the colours being distinct, intense, and contrasting, and the substance such that there is nothing flimsy or frail, and may be considered weatherproof. In the Auckland district seed can be sown at any time of the year. Tt is a good plan to sow two or three times a year, for in this way a succession of young plants can be kept tup. The very best time to sow is early in the new year; plants from this sowing can be expected to bloom during winter and early spring. Sown in late autumn the plants will blocm during the summerSown in spring, the plants will, if kept watered, bloom during the late summer. SHELTER. One of the most pressing needs ot many gardens and farms is the need for shelter. Xot half enoush trees are planted every year, and gardens are often made and given up in despair because the wind blows everything out ot the ground. If shelter hedges were planted first and looked after for a year or two. gardens would flourish where they are now a minus quantity. There are any amount of valuable hedge plants to choose from, and it is not from this cause that hedges and shelter trees are lackingPOTTING BULBS. The first essential to be successful with growing bulbs in pots is to provide, them with a good rooting medium. The; most suitable general compost is one of I three parts turfy loam, one part oM.I decayed manure, and a little coarse sand.: Bulbs can, of course, be grown in fibre.. and also in pebbles and water; but though strong bulbs will yield a good display, they must not be expected to be of much value afterwards: they are unable to build up a new plant next veaT.

The most convenient size of pots for the larger buliw is five-inch. In these put one Hyacin-t-'h or three Tulips, or fcbree Narcissi. The six-inch size will •hold four Tulips or Narcissi or the largebulbed kinds. Of the smaller Narcissi ; (Poeticus, etc.), put four bulbs in a liveinch, and six in a six-inch pot. Drain the pots effectively by placing a large crock or piece of broken pot over the drainage hole, followed by several smaller pieces, then a layer of moss or rough soil. Now fill the pot level full with compost, scoop out a hole in the centre for the bulb, which then press into position. A tap or shako of the pot will level the soil, which should be pressed firm with the lingers, and leave a quarter to half an inch of water space. With Tulips and Narcissi do not fill the pots quite so full, press the bulbs into the loose soil, and fill up afterwards. The smaller bulbs are potted similarly—-fill to within an inch and ahalf of the rim, press the bulbs gently into position, and fill up with soil. With Hyacinths it is best if the nose of the bulbs is above ijie soil-level; with Tulips and Narcissi it matters little whether they are completely covered or whether tbe bulb is visible; the smaller bulbs are best covered. No watering is necessary after potting.

After potting the bulbs must be found a cool, dark position in which growth can commence. A cellar or cupboard will do for this, or they may go under ashes in a comer of the garden. If under ashes cover the Hyacinths with an inverted pot, having the hole blocked. This is to prevent grit, etc., getting into the spike • —which is early visible—and spoiling it. If there are only a few pots, and no really suitable spot for them, they will do well placed in a deep box ami surrounded and covered several inches with ashes, dry sand, coeoanut fibre refuse, or even sawdust. They may then practically stand anywhere, indoors or out. In case of continued heavy rains protect with boards or mats. The bulbs should remain thus in the dark and cool for six, eight, or ten weeks, according to variety, by which time an inch or so of growth should lie made, and they may then be introduced to a cool window or greenhouse, be watered, and encouraged to grow slowly. The great danger to avoid is that of forcing top growth liefore the roots ■have well permeated the soil; therefore, practise patience, and keep your bulbs in the dark and cool till they themselves ask for more light. NOTES. Coleus, Geraniums. Heliotrope, Alyssum, Ageratum. and Verbenas are ■best raised from cuttings inserted now. Collect all fallen leaves for compost, as when rotted they make the best fertilizer. Place them where the wind will not whip them all over the place. Rhubarb appearing crowded, with a tendency to seed freely, needs resetting. Next month dig up the old plants, cut into four pieces with a spade, and re-set, working some fertilizer into the ground at the same time. Celery should he fed occasionally to promote rapid growth, which means quality. Use liquid manure, with a little nitrate of soda once in a while. Trim up the Fuchsias. The plants stand any amount of cutting at this time of year. Get back into the old stems and your Fuchsias will rejoice. Feed Fuchsias freely, if you would have quality flowers. Pyrethrums are a useful line of flowers for the cold country gardener. The blossoms are quite like Marguerites. In colour they run into all the shade of rose and lilac. The plants are hardy and very free-flowering. Sow seed this or next month and you can have flowers in the spring. Pyrethrums grow well on a border. Hyhridium Roseum is the variety to purchase. Dig Potatoes and store if a.suitable place is available; otherwise leave them in the ground as long as tho weather is not too wet. When digging do not leave the tubers exposed to the sun and air all day; only long enough to dry them thoroughly.

IMPROV__I_K.S" IN VEGETABLES.

A correspondent -writing to "The Garden" saj's: —"Wo shall soon be having the seedsmen's catalogues, which will doubtless, as has been the case for the last fifty years, introduce us to the most wonderful new strains, and improvements on the old ones. Seed and plant catalogues remind mc of a commercial traveller, who always represents the goods of his firm as absolutely fchc best on the market: however, when he makes a change the new firm, of course, has the best.

'"It makes mc wonder, with such a subject as the. garden Pea, for instance, that, considering that every year for the last fifty years to my knowledge, we have had at least half a dozen new varieties placed on the market; and each, according to the introducers, a vast improvement on anything ever raised before, how it is that the Pea of to-day is so little better than the best that were in cultivation when 1 was a boy (fifty years and more ago). There is one variety of maincrop Pea. Xc Plus Ultra, which then was the finest flavoured Pea grown, and there was nothing to touch it up to the last time I was allowed to eat this vegetable (ten years ago), nor do I suppose there is now.

"The same applies also to nearly every other vegetable; there are few really better than the best of half a century, ago; in fact, in some cases I think we grew better strains in many respects than we do now. I have iv my mind the Negro and Robin's Egg French Beans, both of which were as heavy croppers, if not heavier, than the best strains of Canadian Wonders of the present day, and were wonderful withstanders of drought. The pods were 'certainly not so long as those of the Canadian Wonder, hut they were of richer and deeper green, and of a fuller and richer flavour, and quite as tender. "Xo Parsnip, for shape, colour, or richness of flavour, and earliness in mellowing, conies up to the Student, which was, unless my memory fails mc, raised ■by Carter, Dunnett, and lieale in the 'sixties.

"With flowers there have certainly been great improvements, hut not to tinextent ihe raisers would have us believe. To judge by recent catalogues, one would be led to think that Asters fifty years ago must have been about the size and form of chickweed, an 1 Petunias about the size of a threepenny

piece—that is, if the vast improvement year hy year (as per catalogues) for, say, the last ten years, can be credited. As for Hoses, they must have been hardly up to the standard of the Dog) Rose, in the hedges.

j "I would advise all your readers to have a salt-cellar handy when perusing the new catalogues, and if they have been glowing really good strains of vegetables and flowers, to stick to these. They will probably get more than double the amount of seed for their money than they would by buying the much, hepulTed novelties: and I feel sure in many instances, save keen disappointment. New species are, of course, different: though they often do not come up to all their introducers paint them. Tliey are few and far between, notwithstanding the facilities for travel of the last few years before the war." WINTER SPINACH. Winter Spinach is valued in many households, and a sowing made now is more certain of better results than that sown earlier. Good Spinach can only be had if the seed is sown on a rich bed and the plants given ample room. Fifteen inches between the rows, and nine to twelve inches from plant to plant, is quite the minimum. Thin out as soon as the plants are through the soil. BRUSSELS SPROUT. Many amateurs will adopt the stupid plan of cutting the tops from plants of Brussels !Sp rou ts at this time of the year, the idea being to hasten the production of "buttons." A more erroneous notion was never conceived; it has been repeatedly proved to be of no use for securing the object aimed at, while a moment's reflection will show one that many scons of valuable sprouts are sacriliccd. By all means remove the old fallen leaves which have done their part, hut the grower who aims at a long succession of sprouts will allow the" tops to remain on the plants. TO DRY AUTUMN LEAVES. To dry autumn leaves tie them into small bundles and hang in a dry airy shed or room. Keep the stalks uppermost so that the sap can run down into tbe leaf. After about two days take them down and dip them into a 'solution of size and water, and then hang them up again until quite dry.

EBM-DT _OS, APHIS AND j CATERPILLAR. The following is a good means ot dealing with aphis, etc., on a ._U-i scale, or when there i 3 no spray pump handy. Buy Sib of hellebore powder, most seedsmen stock it. if not it can be procured from a chemist. Put it in a tin and drill a few small holes in the lid. Sprinkle some of the powder on the infected parts and it will soon be the I end of the pests.

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/AS19220401.2.165

Bibliographic details

Auckland Star, Volume LIII, Issue 78, 1 April 1922, Page 20

Word Count
5,865

WOMEN'S WORLD Auckland Star, Volume LIII, Issue 78, 1 April 1922, Page 20

WOMEN'S WORLD Auckland Star, Volume LIII, Issue 78, 1 April 1922, Page 20