UNDER ETHER.

Auckland Star, Volume XLIX, Issue 71, 23 March 1918, Page 16

UNDER ETHER.

(By MAURICE LEVEL.)

' In the evenings, when the wounded were asleep, when there were left burning in the halls only the Argaud lamps, shaded by hoods of cardboard, the old doctor used to take a little turn up andi down tho road. * His pipe stuck between his teeth, ne nsed to climb the little hill, from which through the trees he could see the denuded plain, the villages, whose mutilated profiles made strange, sharp-drawn figures against the sky, and, further off, St. Quentin, which for eight days past had been illuminated by the glare of incendiary fires. Then, liis back bent forward, his hands in his pockets, he watched going up in smoke the city in which for twenty year 3 he had visited the poor and the rich — the peaceful little city where formerly the old people whom he had cared for and the children whom he had brought into the world greeted him as he passed by; the sorrowful little city, now in captivity, ' where his mother awaited him. Now and then, as the wind blew aside the smoke and the flames licked the black horizon) he would say: "It is the factory which is afire. Or maybe it is the city hall —or the church." Clenching his fists, hia lips trembling, he made his way back to the hospital— older, more weary, heavier at heart. On the mornings of the days of the attacks, when the cannon passed at a gallop, when the tread of regiments oil the march echoed through the silence, he stole softly from his bed to watch, buoyed with the hope that this time at last they were going to retake his city; that he would re-enter it and see there once more his old mother, his old home and his old friends. But when he saw the soldiers coming back, when the thunder of the cannonade slackened and died away, he would sigh, "Not this time, either," and resume his tasks.

One day, when there had been sharp fighting, they brought into the hospital & batch of wounded 'prisoners. One of them, a feldwebel (3ergeant-mnjor), whose shoulder was shattered by a shell, astonished him by the dignity of his bearing and the refinement of his talk. Examining the wound, he asked the prisoner in German: "Where do you come from?" "From Magdeburg, in Saxony, Monsieur le LMedecin-Majeur," replied the subofficer, in good French. '"Ah," said the doctor, with an intonation of regret, for he had hoped that the wounded man was an Alsatian, conscripted by force. The latter seemed to understand, and murmured: "What can you expect, doctor? War is war. But that doesn't prevent mc from loving France, where I grew up." Of a sudden the blood mounted to the face of the old surgeon. Pushing up his glasses and looking sternly at the prisoner, he hurled at him this question: "And are you not ashamed to ravage this country, to ruin thess poor people. who before the war received' you with kindness?" "Yes," the other answered softly. "1 am often ashamed. For my part i have always striven to be humane, to be just, to avoid mistreating anybody and to alleviate mistreatment by others as far as lay in my power. The combat over, one becomes a human being again; and the inhabitants of the occupied regions are not responsible. Their persons and their property ought to be sacred. I have to apologise for those of my companions who have not understood this. For instance, my regiment has been for the last six months at St. Quentin " The doctor gave a start. "You have been at St. Quentin for six months? I came from St. Quentin Perhaps you can give mc some news. Often in the evenings I see fires—now in one quarter of the city, now in another You haven't destroyed the place systematically, have you, as you did 'Noyon, Peronne and Bapaume?" "Alae, doctor, that is a foul blot on our arms."

-But, pursued the surgeon, his voice almost choked, "you have been burning only public buildings, haven't you? Not private houses?"

"No; the private houses are practically untouched up to now." "Ah! Do you know a street called Befiroi Street?"

'I know it very well. It is there""It is there that my old mother lives," said the doctor slowly. "My name is Journau. Do you know my mother?" "I was quartered in her house." "Ah! ; Mon Dieu! How is she?" "She is well—very well. She is a very worthy person, and I suffered from the annoyance which our presence caused her. I, too, have an old mother in "Magdeburg, and I thought of her when I saw your mother weeping. But such is war!"

The doctor breahed freely. Big tears ran down his cheeks. But he collected himself, and, bending again over the wound, he announced: "We are going to put you to sleep Tight away. It is nothing serious. You will soon be well. While they washed the wound with tincture of iodine and an assistant got ready to administer ether,, the wounded man gave some more details: "Yes, your mother is well and suffers no inconvenience. The house is always in order, as if for a fete. Her rooms are so neat and the floors so scrupulouslypolished that it is a pleasure to look at them in passing. She waters her flowers; she trims her rose bushes. An attractive house! A fine woman!" Then his voice wavered a little; he grew stiff; soon he relaxed and softly passed into slumber. In the midst o' the operations he gave a start, turned his head to one side and bahbled some meaningless words. The assistant was about to give him more gas, but the surgeon stopped him. "Not too much. We are nearly through." The prisoner began to talk again. This time his words were precise, bis phrases clean-cut. His voice, which a little while before had been so calm, became harsh and imperious, and he smiled between his. phrases with a huge smile which shook his abdomen and bis arms. "Go ahead! Go ahead! Take that old wardrobe out and burn it! Break it open for mc first! Linen? That's good to wipe our shoes with. What does she say? A spigot for the wine casks? Ho, there, the rest of you! Get an axe and draw the wine out in ' buckets." The doctor's hand trembled. "Hurrah!" the wounded man went on. "Seize the old woman! Tie her to a chair if she is obstinate! She has a son who is an officer? Ha! Ha! Slop her on tho head till -ehe gives us the key to her strong box!" Ths old doctor stood erect, very pale, his big, blood-Btained hands wide open. For an instant hia terrible eves ran from his fingers to the neck of the Boche. Then, -in a very low voice __ a____t__rt, as b-e %eat down, again.: "Give him- » little more ___ "ttwu__ >ou. ao-so lam "4*»i4l

TO CORRESPONDENTS. ] iC.P (Ngaruawahia).—You sliould bare no trouble to grow a passion fruit vine over a framework building lor a fernery. Treat the ground well by deep digging, and either put in plants or* seed. Personally I always consider seed Is best. It may appear slow at first, bat if sown in their permanent positions the plants ' seem to come away stronger than when transplanted. Procure some fresh seed, nnd. sow either now or iv the spring. It sown now the plants will not make much headway' till the spfing, but will grow away strong then. Sow the seed thinly, anil when the plants are up thin them out leaving the best-placed and strongest.' The thinnings can be transplanted, but you- will not need many plants. ■ although It Is good policy to leavo] ; enough in case of accidents. In the spring, when they commence to grow, if they are still too tulckly placed, more thinning can be done. Ivy geraniums are easllv grown from cuttings planted nt once Into their permanent positions. They like good, sandy soil, a position in lull sun, and will do on dry banks where little else will grow, I'lanted so that the plants have some boulders or low-grow-ing sbrnbs to ramble over, they look well; or I have seen them climbing up an elcagnus hedge, but they do not do nearly so .well trained to' a fence or wire-netting —they seem to need t_e shelter and nursing of other shrubs. K.B. (LMt. Eden).—The suckers of chrysanthemums can be left -o grow as soon as the buds begin to show colour and to open. In regard to saving. your own aeed, yon do not ___nt___i what It is yon have er want to save. When saving- seed it Is very __»c__s___y to Jse pa_rt______r to save tie seed, only _____ flowers of. tiu

best colour and size, and from plants of the best habit. With plants as witn humans, the bad points always predominate unless held In check by selecting only tlie best. Many plants reproduce themselves fairly true from seed, but others need very careful selection to keep the strains up to first-class condition. Always aim at only saving the very best. Better to save a dozen seeds of good quality than a lot of Inferior stutf. Many strains of plants only give one or two ' per cent of flowers worth saving seed from, hence the high price of many seeds, which to the uninitiated appear to be abundant g_ed : beai'ei-B and should he very cheap. O.S. (Ponsonby).—You apparently have not had much success with stone fruits this season. Brown rot and split-stone seems to have taken the whole crop. You mention that your soil is of a very cold, heavy, unkind clay, and no doubt this in ;i curtain measure helps the trouble, for It Is not what can be in any way considered a peach soil. Split-stone Is caused by the peucU moth. Tbe caterpillar enters \Vheu quite young, and lives on the kernel till full grown. The pupa or chrysalis Is also found, thus showing that the whole period comprising these two stages Is passed in the fruit. The trees should be sprayed with arsenate of lead, I.lb to SO gallons, soon after the fruit has formed, and throughout the summer at periods of about three weeks. To save duplication of .praying, arsenate of lead can be added to boraeanx mixture or lime sulphur In the proportion of I.lb to 50 gallons of spraying liquid. I should advise you to use _t_-e-_ulp_mr solution in 'p___—vence to _e_-___u_E fttr _________ spraytag. tke latter hi fin _____■ te scorch t-ift _«____*, ami tUa fact may be the re__-U_ of. some of your trees lastngr

their learen. There Is an article on brown rot In this issue. You must carefully gather and burn all lenvcß and decaying fruit, and, If time allows, go over the tree now nnd cut out any dead twice— cutting well back to the live wood. JLne.e must be cnreroily picked up and burnt. As soon as the leaves are off *pray with copper sulphate or bluestone lib, water lfi gallons, using no lime ns In making bordeaux. Spray twice during tho winter with this mixture; but caro must be token that tbe tree Is quite dormant, and also tbnt there are no plants with foliage underneath, as tbe spray is very strong, and will scorch nny green foliage. A caustic soda spray for winter use, and known as "Woburn Wash," Is made as follows:—

Sulphate of Iron. .lb. Limp, quick or unslaked, lib. Caustic sodn, '.Mb. Kerosene, 5 plum. Water to make 10 gallons. The wash should be prcpnrcil ns follows: (a) Dissolve tho iron sulphate In about 1) gallons of water; (b) slake the lime In a Utile water, and then add v little more to make Into a "milk"; (c) run '"b" Into "a" through a piece of coarse sacking to keep back grit; (d) churn tbe kcroscno Into the mixture; (c) add the caustic soda In the powdered condition. It Is not wise to add the caustic sodn till Just before using. As tho wash has a burning effect on the hands, caro should be exercised In employing it. The face and eyes should be protected, and gloves should be worn. Choose a still, calm day, so that the spray Is not blown about.

A.5.6. (Te Knltl).—Appie -<o. 1 Is nf-octo-vrltii apple scab (Veuturla lnequalls), unfloiiMedly the most Injurious fungoid post attacking the apple tree, In many instances ruining the whole crop, and Is present wherever the apple Is grown. The apples that are .on the tree should be gathered and cooked as soon as possible. The disease is present on the leaves nnd twigs as well as on tho fruit, although It Is only when the fruit is affected thnt it Is considered worth troubling about. It Is on the twigs that the disease Is carried through tho winter, and when the tree commences to 1 grow In the spring tho spores are transmitted to the leaves, nnd these transmit | them to the fruit. Tbe affected shoots can bo recognised lv f_ie winter and esrlv spring by ruptured or torn patches of skin, frequently torn into shreds, more especially near the base of the last year's shoot. The tree should be carefully gone over, and all these affected shoots cut off and burned. Spray with copper sulphate lib, water 15 gallons, or lime sulphur 1 to 15 parts water. This must be done before the buds begin to swell. Just when the leaf buds begin to burst and before the flowers open, spray with Bordeaux 4-4-40, or lime sulphur 1 part to 50 parts water. Spray again with the same strength shortly after the petals have fallen. This latter can be applied at tlie time of spraying with arsenate ot lend for codlln moth, as the arsenate can he mixed with the Bordeaux or lime sulphur. Unther and destroy all diseased lonves and fruit. I snould say apple No. _ Is "Yates." t should recommend "Gcin" and "Delicious" as two good dessert apples for a small garden in preference to Emperor Alexander snd Salem. THE PERPETUAL FLOWERING CARNATION TINDER CLASS. Though glasshouses arc not very general about Auckland, yet there are many structures which, if not of elaborate construction, arq, capable of producing good blooms of these carnations. Shelter from heavy rains and wind, rather than cold is needed; in fact, they will -bloom, well outdoor, throughout the winter, but the effect of storms is disastrous to the flowers. All that is needed is a light, airy structure facing nearly or quite north. In the United States, where large structures are devoted to the production of carnation blooms during the winter, the system of planting in beds on : benches is the method usually followed, but for email quantities it is better to grow the plants in pots- The plants . should be obtained as soon after Christmas oa possible. Plants .potted about i January can be had in flower from March onwards. Those who have not ' yet got plants and would like to start ; should procure plants as Boon as possible, i Once you have stock plants you can . layer or strike cuttings so as to have ■ plants ready for potting just when you [ like. The toil for potting purposes ' should be fresh, turfy loam, leafsoal, and ' _-__<_. A good compost is made up of ' two B__r_s good turfy _o__n» one of leaf* • soil, and one of sand; and. to each.bushel

of mixed compost add a pint of bone dust and a shovelful of wood ashes Tho whole eJiould be well mixed, and passed /through a .in. or Jin. sieve, saving the rough sittings. The pots for the first potting should be four-inch. These should be well drained, and over the drainage put a handful of the rough sittings, firming it with a potting stick. The plant should then be put in and potted,, tho .oil being made firm. Do not bury tho plant any deeper than necessary to keep it firmly in place, and do not fill the pot higher than half an inch from the top, so as to allow for watering. After potting it will be necessary to give a soaking of water, but no more should be given till the'soil appears dry. It will assist the plants if a slight spraying with clear water is given in the evening after a hot day. It will also be an advantage if the freshly potted plants are shaded from tho midday sun for tho first two or three days. As soon as the roots reach the sides of the pots the plants should he repotted into larger pots- At this potting the plants should be put into five or six-inch pots, the exact size being governed by the size of the plants—the 'large and more vigorous growing varieties will go into six-inch, the weaker growers into pots. The compost should be similar to that used at the previous potting, and the plants -should be potted very firmly. In any case do not overpot, and after potting, be sparing with water until the plants have taken hold ot the soil. During the winter, in fact, throughout the whole of the life of a carnation, excessive damp either in the soil or atmosphere must he guarded against, and, in addition, as much ventilation as poeeible must be given. A close or damp atmosphere is more fatal than the cold; that is, the cold that is experienced about Auckland. Some of the varieties make a bushy plant, but some do not; and if a plant commences to run up to flower without making any side growth, the flower-stem should be pinched out. The usual plan is to pinch the young plant when a few inches high, and again when it has made more growth, usually about a month later. In this way a firm, stocky plant is obtained. A plant usually produces a flower about three months from pinching. When the plants have filled the pots with roots and are commencing to throw up blooms, . they will take a weekly application of manure. Soot water or cow manure made into a liquid manure can be used. The best way, however, is to uso a ready mixed, complete manure, such as carmona or Clay's fertiliser. The plants must be kept staked and tied, and should red spider or green fly appear, fumigate at once. The perpetual flowering carnation is essentially a winter bloomer, that is, it is seen at its best, and produces its best flowers, during the winter.- During the hot weather the majority of the varieties seem to go off, and are much inferior to the border varieties. Grown from layers or cuttings, struck about August, fine large plants can be obtained, that will give a continuous supply of blooms for months, but to obtain suoh it ia necessary to have the stock plants and to propagate them at home. The perpetual flowering carnation, although it can be propagated from cuttings, will akso root as layers, and, with the exception of a month or so in mid-winter, the plants can be layered with success throughout the year. Of course, propagation by layers does not provide the quantity that cutting, do, but to the man who only requires one or two -plants this is not a serious matter. Another fault of layering is that when-layered the plant is .spoilt for further blooming, whereas with cuttings they can be taken off, and the plant will continue to bloom. When cutting blooms of perpetual flowering carnation, cut low down. The plant is naturally a long grower, bnt if the blooms axo cut well down, it _aw___ the growth of side shoots and Icecf. the, plants much, more dwait and. bT____r-

BROWN OR RIPE ROT. This is undoubtedly the most destructive and widely distributed of fungus parasites, attacking apples, pears, peaches and plums. The fungus causing this trouble at one time delighted in the _iame of Molinra fructigena; it, however, is now known as Sclerotinia fructigena. This past fruit season, particularly about Auckland, it has assumed almost the character of an epidemic, so widespread and general have its ravages been noticed. It is obvious, however, that it has been present for many years, but proper precautions have not been taken, to deal with it, and the result is that it is not till it is almost out of hand that any notice is taken. To the ordinary observer the disease first attracts attention when -it appears under the form of scattered brownish patches on the skin of the fruit. This is followed by the growth of grey dull tufts arranged in irregular concentric rings. These grey tufts are composed of dense masses of spores which are blown about and finding a favourable resting-place, reproduce the disease. Although most obvious on the fruit, the fungUß usually first attacks tho leaves, where it forms thin, velvety, olive-green patches. The spores from diseased leaves'are blown or washed on to the surface of the f<-uit, and in some cases the blossoms have been ftmnd to be attacked. On young shoots the fungus forms v-ivory. olive brown patches, but as a rule thj shoot, are not killed the first year. On such twigs the fungus survives the, winter, and develops rapidly, furnishing a ready supply ,of spores, which mature early, just when the foliage is most susceptible, and wholesale infection results. Fruit attacked by this fungus does not readily rot or decay, but becomes dry and mummified. Such fruit can often be seen hanging on the trees over the winter, ready to become a. source of infection, even when lying on the ground. And it is reported from America that mummified plums and peaches that have been buried for two years, upon being dug up. have reproduced the disease;

Preventive measures for such a disease need to be carried out with every care. AH dead twigs and shrivelled fruit —whether hanging on the tree or lying on the ground—should be collected and destroyed by fire. After the collection of diseased fruit and the removal of dead twigs, the trees, and also the ground, should be thoroughly drenched with a solution of copper, using one pound of bluest-one to 10 gallons of -water or lime sulphur 1 to 15 parti of water can be used. When the leaf-buds are expanding, and before the flower of the apple, or directly the petals of the peach and phim have . fallen, the trees should be sprayed with lime sulphur, 1 to 75 parts water. Another similar spraying should be given when the fruit, is set. and another when it is half-grown, and again about three weeks before' ready for picking.

MAKING A LAWN. Prepare the ground now by deep digging, levelling, and firming the ground. All perennial weeds should bo carefully thrown ont, and the ground should be left for a time. In a week or so make the surface perfectly smooth and level, and run the roller over two or three times whilst the surface is dry. Sow a good, mixture of grass seeds obtained from a good source. Never sow cheap grass seed, and sow it thickly. The cost is very little extra, and the result is not aompars-le with a thin sowing. Rake the seek in well and roll.. Choose a dry, still day for sowing. If the seed is good it should be up in a few days, and will get away before the birds have a chance to do any damage. When the young gross is a few inches high, go over and mow it with a sharp scythe. Bo not use a «—***—> __p_a__-_ry •___ w__k ■___» w___t___ After nit—lag. T__i again «_t the-feat dry day-

ANTIRRHINUM FROM CUTTINGS. If cuttings of antirrhinums are put in now they will be nicely rooted in a very .short time, and fit to -plant out where they are to bloom. This method of propagation is preferable to sowing seed, especially when plants absolutely true to colour are required. Select for cuttings the strong, short, young side shoots, make them two or three inches long. Insert them into a prepared bed of light soil. The soil Bhould have a good quantity of sand and' leaf soil or well-Totted manure added; in fact, for rooting such subjects-nothing can beat a bed made lip two to six inches deep of nothing else than leaf soil or well-rotted manure and sand; the manure must be two years old at least. The bed can be made in a cold frame, or, ifjthat is not available, make it in a box. the top of which has been cut sloping, and filled with compost, so that when the cuttings are in the tops will not be more than an inch below the top of the box. This box must then be covered with glass, or procure some white calico and give it a coating of linseed oil, let it dry, and then use that; it will be found a good substitute for glass' in many cases. If glaes is used the cuttings must be shaded until rooted. The . cuttings will root outside if they can be kept watered and shaded until rooted, but, after they are rooted, full sun and air is needed.

KILLING DANDELIONS. A eiieap and easy method of killing j dandelions, docks, and such like taprooted weeds on the lawn is by the following- method:—Procure a wooden skewer, plunge it into the centre of the weed, then put a few drops of petrol into the wound. This can be done, by having a 'bottle of petrol with,a string, tied round the neck, and looped so as to hang on the w.rist. Have a notched etick jn the bottle,- and after piercing the plant, drop a few drops of petrol into it from the notched stick carried in the bottle. Above all remember that when using petrol not to smoke, or serious burns may be the result.

SOWING ANNUALS. To obtain an early display of annuals! vow is the time to.sow them. Most people wait till tho spring before sowing. Seed sown now; and the'plants transplanted in due time, .to good soil, will produce fine large plants that will produce an abundance of bloom. Autumn sown annuals are not comparable with spring sown; they are more iVgorous and give larger blooms. Amongst annuals that do well sown now are gypsophila elegans, clarkias, gottetias, poppies, mignonette, cornflowers, nigellas, annual larkspurs, erysimum, -phacelia, scabiosa, lobelia, dianthus, verbenas, pansies, calliopsie.

ROSE CUTTINGS IN MOSS. _ A simple method of striking rose cuttings is by using moss, sand and leaf mould. Pick the mo_s very fine, and mix equal portions of leafsoi., moss and sand together. Prepare the cuttings and then -put eight or nine in a five-inch pot, using the above compost and potting very firm. Give the pots a good soaking of water. Let them drain well and then shade from hot sun until rooted. When rooted they must be planted out, if possible potted on and grown in a cold frame. Many -woody plants can t>c struck from cuttings in this way.