WOMEN'S WORLD

Auckland Star, Volume XLVII, Issue 243, 11 October 1916, Page 8

WOMEN'S WORLD

SOCIAL JOTTINGS.

■ Mr. and Mrs. Wadsworth and their ■§wo daughters, ■well-known residents of ?almeret(jn iNortb,. returned to Auckland -an Saturday by the' Turakina, via the. ■Panama Canal. They had a most enjoyable trip Home, but are glad to be sack again in New Zealand. After the -steamer-got -through the- Ganal until the Jfew Zealand coast was reached not a vessel was seen on. this, at present, little frequented route.

The third of the series of auction bridge parties, held by Mr. Irwin, in the ■Civic League rooms, in aid of the Ked Cross funds, took place on Thursday afternoon. The attendance was not so ■large as on previous occasions, as many • of the.-playere belonged to the afternoon quota of packers at the Town Hall. The Toc«njs's3o6kedivery nice, and the tea table ' Jwas , ? decorated.'''with Australian iMay and peach 'bloom-'. The tea was in 'eharge'-ofr Mrs. MeCalluni, N Mrs. Felix Levien, -Mrs. Webber, Mrs. Coe, and Mrs. Eavestaff.

Mr. and Mrs. Robert Ifenwick, of Auckland, who have been holidaying in the s,oath, are making a short stay in Christchurch before returning to the north. ,

Miss Xeville Thome George, who has been the guest of her sister (Mrs. Y. Riddiford), in Wellington, has returned to Auckland.

Mr. and Mrs. Perrett, of Wellington, are visiting Auckland.

Mr, S. S. Osborae,- of New Plymouth, is on a visit to Auckland. ; _ / • Miss Wheatlcy, of Lepperton, Taranaki, is paying a visit to Auckland.

Mrs. Holbrooke, of Auckland, is the guest of Mrs. W. Xewman, New Plymouth.

Mrs. Pv. Quilliam is the guest of Mis 3 Devore, Parnel], Auckland.

Mrs. Sholto Douglas, who has been visiting Mrs. W. Douglas, Togeltown, Taranaki, has returned.

Mr=. Bailey, of this city, is at present in Xew Pivinouth.

Miss Wood, who has been visiting her sister (Mrs. Ha worth, Epsom), has returned to New Plymouth.

Mr. and Mrs. T. H. Lowry, Hawke'e Bay. are on their 'way back from America. -

Mrs. Ewen Alison, who has been on a' i visit to Xapier, .has returned. Princess'Eizabeth of Rumania is muck liked in her own country. Her mother ■was Princess Marie of Edinburgh. King Edward's niece, so she vs partly English. She is very fond of outdoor life, and is •wry beautiful. Some years ago she wae engasretl to Prince George of Greece, but broke off the engagement herself. Baronese Osten Platen, whose extravagance had been a byword in Budapest, died not/long ago, and the sale by auction of: her personal belongings made quite a sensation. Amongst other things, 110 hats—none of them worn more than onee — .ivere , offered, and the auctioneer produced .bills showing that the average price paid for them had teen. £40vea«V. Certificates for shares to the _ralue ofi £80,000 were found in the poekete of coate, in drawers with handkerchiefe, and tucked awax judder the ibxts in bat

I A peari necklace of unusual niagnificence was sold nt Messrs Christie's recently for £24,000. This ie a record (price for a pearl necklace in England. The highest sum paid for one before the preaent wae for Lady' Henry Gordon Lennox's; which at the same rooms iii 1003 made £22,500. It was of five.row*, composed of 257 pearls, catalogued as weighing 3.050 grains. The one just cold was a three-Tow necklace of 193 pearls, weighing 403 carate. The" pearls were 'beautifully matched in tinge anl only slightly graduated, and each pearl •was perfect in sheen. The starting price was £7,000, and was Tun up among tane many pearl merchants present .by thousands and five hundreds until it waa acquired at £24,000 by Messrs Tannenbaum and Co.

The revival of sfcue draw-string must foe rather .exasperating to the woman who ■has.'.*by';no | w,"aoquired a handsome collection of; metal bag tops, -but it ie certainly. welcomed, by those who have elever'nngere an 3 a 'few odds and ends of .brocade and ribbon. Very handsome mounted bags are etill shown in the shops and still bought in huge numbers, but the fact remains that the drawstring bag ie considered to have more chic just now by a certain set. It was this same set that revived the oldifaehioned bag—chiefly as a matter of i convenience when on programme selling and other charitable •efforts. Lady Kandolph Churchill, Miss Ellen Terry, Mies [Elizabeth Asquitb. and many more are ' nowadays to 'be seen with comfortable draw-string bags, which they carry over i their arms.

Of MrsJJonham Carter, Cifr Aequith's . daughter by his first wife, it may be said that she id all refinement in manner and appearance. Naturally reserved, she can. ret be drawn out'of-lie'reelf, iff clever at speaking.in public . and more erudite in conversation than, nine, Avomen out of ten. Without being beautiful*' she yet attracts through the calm of her face and the moonlight-coloured hair someone called it—that tones so well vith her pale skin. Mrs Bonliam Carter showed a hitliertp unrevealed artistic talent when ehe furnished the Georgian house in Dorset Street that is to be her home in her newly-married life. True it ie that Mr Goeeie GoTdon liennox, the husband of Miss Marie Tempest, had done wonders, as a previous tenant, for the walla, staircase and mantelpieces; but Mrs Bonham Carter has evolved out of her inner -consciousness a white lacquer drawing-room .which is a marvel of taste. Unlike Mise 'Elizabeth Asquith, Mrs Carter has no taste for music.

Two new recruits to the etaff of the Y.W.C.A.. for Gpecial work, gays Melbourne '•Punch." are Miss Xeatley, of Vancouver, and Miss Edwards, of Auckland.

The most charming idea mentioned in a Sydney paper is the innovation of bags and parasols to go with the gowns and hats. The wearer of a gown in navy taffetas carries a bag composed half of the material of her gown, and half, of the sulpliurrcoloured crown of her hat, and her flat, inside-lined parasol hag also a suggestion of the same trimmings. Xisere, chrysanthemum, and satin, and crinolines mixed are the favoured, mil-

A WOMEN'S COUNCIL.

The great need which exists for a representative body of women to deal l with the problems especially affecting | women and children has been forced home to the minds of the women citizens; recently in no feeble manner, and the subject lias aroused a keen interest throughout the Dominion. A move 'hns ] been made in Christchurcli, and the recent record meeting of women, when i one of the biggest theatres in tlie place was packed to the doors, and 'hundreds could not gain admission—22oo women attending—shows that the interest ie widespread. A provisional committee of women has been formed in that city to open correspondence with the various centres with the idea of forming a Women's National Council. The object is to unite all organised societies of ■women for mutual counsel and cooperation in the attainment of justice and freedom for women. The movement will also strive to encourage the formation of societies of women engaged in trades, professions, and in social and political work in connection with which no organised union at present exists. The Council is not to be organised for any one particular propaganda, but is to be in the general interests of women, who at present are flouted in many ways because they have not combined in a manner that would give them power , both in municipal life and public life. Ko Society joining this organisation shall, render itself liable to be interfered with in respect to its complete organic unity or independence of methods of work, nor shall it be committed to any .principle to which its delegates shall not agTee. All organised societies of women, [or societies of men and women in sympathy with the forward movement I amongst women, should affiliate. The enormous power which .lies ready to the hands of women is too little known. All' thinking women should join this Dominion movement, which is but the beginning of an organisation which will doubtless have the power to enforce a I iuster outlook for all women, both those engaged in public life, in mercantile careers, and in the upbuilding life oi the home. y_

THRIFT.

The true idea of thrift is that it should begin as soon as one has any control over money. For instance, the child with an allowance of sixpence a wee"k can learn the principle of spending it with,.a due regard for-benevolence and common sense as well as pleasure. As coon as a woman begins to earn, money, be it ever so little, she can put the thrift principle into practice. " Employers. ar* coming more and more to.encourage and help those who are known to be making efforts to save systematically. Many corporations, such as banks, insurance companies, railroads, and drygoode stores, carry endowment insurance for their employees to encourage them in thrifty habits. However efficient a per,son may seem to be, he. is lacking in some essential element of character it he leaves the future to take care of iteelf. A ; motto worth remembering is that two pounds a month saved during working years means independence'ana KBJfort ». ft. ss^m&)it L* "

AUCKLAND'S SOLDIER SONS.

The response to the appeal for Christmas gifts for our soldiers has been very ready, and the result is now on its way; but the amount of work entailed on the patriotic ladies is little understood. First of all, circulars with covering letters -were se"ht out to the seventy-five branch leagues in the Auckland province, together w-ith receipt forms. Each district was then canvassed for its subscriptions, and each donor was presented with a card on which to write their name and address. This was detachable to return to the league as a receipt. Special members of the Auckland secretarial staiT were set apart to receive all the city contributions, and' during the last few days a constant stream of cheerful givers bringing in their five shillings, flowed into the patriotic portale, and it took at least three voluntary workers during the whole of the day to issue receipts, and ccc that cards were correctly "written. Then came in from the districts hundreds of letters. Each of these had to be dealt with in some manner. The interesting feature of the whole thing, from the local point of view, was the great number whose efforts went to help forward the glad work of trying to bring a feeling of home to the lads in the trenches. It is estimated that at leasjt 0.000 persons helped practically in some way or other in the final work of the Christmas gifts. The nailing flown and stencilling of the cases took twelve men—under Mr. Chapman—about two hours' steady work before the gifts were finally ready for their long sea voyage. The address is on the sides, while on the end of each case is stencilled " Christmas Gift from the Auckland Province to her I Soldier Sons."

RED CROSS LECTURES.

An interesting lecture was recently given to the members of the Women's National Reserve Medical Corps by Mrs. Gillies, of the British Red Cross Society. Mrs. Gillies, as is well known, has for many years been a member of the original society in England, and is priviliged to wear its medal and decorations. She Jβ thus well informed on the subject of the Red Cross throughout the Empire, and portrayed its initial struggle for existence, and how at last perseverance forced its recognition, with the result tliat now the Geneva Cross hue come to stand permanently as the sacred symbol of the protection and- care of the wounded and suffering throughout the world. This lecture was appropriately followed by one from Mrs. W. H. Parkes on "Army Field Xursing" as followed to-day. With the help of charts and diagrams, Mrs. Parkes clearly- describe.! the wonderful methods and organisation whereby a man wounded in the firing line it.-France can, within twenty-four hour*, be trans-ported to the base hospitals ■in England with the smallest discomfort to the. injured. The lecture-was. most instructive,, and,, being so closely associated with the '-work-of'the Medical-Corps, ; was keenly." followed arid appreciated' by the members.- - . -

WOMEN AND THE WAR.

Mr. J. J. Virgo, national field secretary of the British National Council of the V.M.C.A., gave an address in the Wellington Concert Chamber of the Tqjjni Hall specially for women. Mr. Virgo epoke with interest of the women's work he had seen; a girl had driven lilVn by motor about 10,000 miles in the United Kingdom. He then gave a vivid picture of the work of women in the munition factories, on farms, in motor buses, as window cleaners, and in practically every walk of life. What Mr Virgo was warm in.his praises about in regard to their work was the way in which they used their influence and their energies in trying to provide coun-ter-attractions to the temptations and dangers that beset the soldiers, particularly when they arrived in London on leave from France, and had a few hours to put in before they could leave for their friends or their homes in other parts of England, Scotland. Wales, or Ireland, ac the case might be. Words altogether failed to do justice to the work which the women of Britaiu were doing during this war in every direction. What women were doin<j in the hutments at Havre, in the Harfleur Valley, and elsewhere was touched upon. All their time was spent in attending to the wants of "the mcn —in canteen work, in office work, in motor ambulance and other forms of motor work, etc..»and they were exerting a very fine influence upon the soldiers. .Reference to the work for the men which was being done in Egypt by women was made, and Mr. Virgo told of one place, notorious in bygone days, was now cleared of everyone but 1 the soldiers and the women who were working for their good. The Eskebieh liarderis were a wonderful illustration of this influence.

Mr. Virgo ended his address by making a very special appeal to women to exert their utmost influence in seeing that when the men fame back the welcome that was held out to them should have no harmful elements.

BOOKS FOR THE TROOPS.

One of the interesting departments of Patriotic Gift work was the magazine section, where the books forwarded for the use of the soldiers were sorted and packed for the troopships and to provide libraries on the hospital ships. For the use of the transports two large canvas sacks were got ready, each containing 350 volumes. Magazines have been received in the largest quantity, and these are all rebacked, if torn, and the advertisements removed to eava space. They nre neatly omind in green paper and tied with small green ribbon at the back. The books sent forward comprised a surprisingly good selection of popular and quite" recent fiction. Here and there old friends amongst the classics had crept in, like "Don Quixote," whose sorrowful adventures were contained in a huge volume, probably of some value to a collector's library. * Two beautiful editions of the poets had also been sent, and the packers expressed the opinion that more poetry would-be welcomed. The shelves are now again empty, and. the committee make a strong appeal to the -public to forward any books. or magazines they can spare to help to relieve the tedium of the sea, gwj* ior,oug returning sick ipgdien, «

SOME FASHION NOTES.

We arc-now on- the threshold of | autumn, and those to whom the war and! it? contingencies are not obliterating everything else, says our English correspondent, are thinking a little of modes. Soon the schools will re-open, the days will be drawing in, and our all too short! sumincr gone again. The careful house-, wife has to face anew the problem ofj clothes for herself and her charges of both sexes. It will he early in Xew Zealand to. think of winter, but as forewarned ie forearmed, it will not be amiss to sketch the trend of fashion's vaga-j ries as displayed in this London of ours. And in the foreshadowing of winter, fur naturally plays a part. Even in the ciajTS here its place as first favourite, was indicated. At the opera one night, in a sweltering heat, at which even our New Zealandere were grumbling , , T caw ;i ; society dame coiffed in that bright] bronze which is the colour of .hair nowadays. The more effectively to set off its i scintillating reds, a set of -white fox furs were worn.- The effect was start ling enough, as if. it were intended to focu3 all eyee. It 'made one hot to look at. it let alone wear the "confection." but the lady no doubt had the soothing halm of knowing that she was not merely le dernier cri de la mode, but several cries ahead of Dame Fashion. This straw did indicate the set of fashion's current for the winter. White fox is undoubtedly the fur of the coming'season, and is even, that already at the fag end of the summer.

Every girl who aspires to be in the| swim just now at. fashionable resorts 1 by hill and dale wears a white fox neck-' let, made cither of• a whole ekin of the , . Arctic fox or a half size ofi the wearer's dress allowance being prob-j ably the determining factor, unless" by I chance the wearer has the ghost of a. conscience, and scruples about war economy concealed about her. The fur is drawn neglige fashion round' her sjioul-j ders, and ! her dress is cither-of white! gabardine or navy blue. A small hat :ilted well over one ear, and very high white boots complete the most striking of the seaside outfits now to be seen. There are indictions of some considerable change in the type of coat and skirt for the coming winter, the threequarter coat ousting the ultra-short coat. Parie j declares that nothing less than half length and preferably ' threequarter length is to be de rigueur, and the effect of the change is -heightened by the tendency to raise the waistline a little. Dainty white voile, muslin, and net blouses are often revealed when coats are removed, for many ladies adhere to lingerie blouses all the year round. Xinon • and crepe ■ Georgette are the favourite materials, and they either match the skirt or are in' delicate, pastel tints. These look even better still it worn with a sleeveless coatee, pinafore top or braces of some sort to match the skirt in colour if not in material, an addition which adds much to the effect of the toilette. Aβ for skirts-ther have definitely entered on the down 'grade They should be at least ankle length Pans says to the instep. - While fashion decrees longer coate and longer skirts—and these be days of war economy-rskirts have ceased to bunch 60 one supposes what one adds in one direction one can save in another T*ev are still very full: at the hem. but a™ cleverly arranged to fall in long straight line* from the waist down. In the trimming of - new costumes' a . marked tendency declares iteelf for band" effeote, and **» * y«9B «tan carried gat. fe *»

Bands of fur of various widths are used. Grey rabbit ie a favourite and looks particularly effective on a black velvet costume or on one of those walking costumts of deep blue stockingette which are to be the favourite wear this coming winter. Fur, too, is coming more and more into use in trimming indoor dresses, although it is not very very long ago when it was regarded "as the worst of taste, ac .heinous a conjunction in dress feminine as brown boots and-a frock coat in man. ' "

But autres temps autree moeurs . . other manners and fashions.

Other trimmings are not entirely neglected, and tinsel run 3 the favourite! fur hard as a decorative adjunct. Rich! tinsel and brocades of gay colours are to! be lavishly used in the new season's frocks. The use of tinsel is not confined to frocks. The big brimmed felt hatsi which are to be this winter's vogue heed' no trimming, but an ornament jn the scintillating hues of tinsel—it may be a I I few leaves, a bunch of little fruits or just some, formal and conventional design—one single piece of ornament of this description is sufficient in itself ac trimming for these felts. Pale grey and , ivory white are the favourite colouts. and the latest shapes of new winter hate are slightly turned up at the back.

WOMEN IN INDUSTRY AND PUBLIC LIFE.

I Girton College, Cambridge, the pre--11 mier women's university college, has now I made arrangements to give twelve educated women a course in agriculture, in ;i order to meet the*tlemands which women [are making to be properly trained in • farm work. L Women dispensers were first employed ' in British military hospitals last eumjmer, and so satisfactory bare their eer- ' j vices been that practically all dispensers in military hospitals will in future be ' women. Even men over military: age are being replaced 'by women. I To safeguard the clerk's calling, . women clerks must insist on equal pay 6 for equal work, was the subject,of Mr. . John Lindeley's, of Neweastle-ori-Tyne, , presidential address to the conference of f the National Union of Gierke, England. r A resolution proposing a minimum wage t of 42/ a week for all clerks wae de- - feated. . - '•:' Mies Dorothy Dufton,. of Girton Colt lege, Cambridge, has been awarded by s the President and Council of the Royal J Society the first year's income of their • Lawrence Fund' for an investigation of c pneumonia produced by poisonous gases. r Miss Biifton is engaged on research work !, in Cambridge University Physiological II Laboratory. c Where they have been working in c England as Army cooks in the past cix "•months, women, have, saved £410,035. • j Four, hundred women are'so. employed, c and women are to succeed men in six ! big camps. One camp alone will require '• 1250 cooks. ~ A Home' Office circular directs the attention of . employers of female lift , workers to the need for allowing the I attendants facilities for rest in the inj. tervals of work, and suggeete that, In r e the absence of other -sitting aceommodalt tion, lifts should be equipped:with seat*, i- A. party of 70 well-educated women is l- being formed by the National Land d Council, London, for fruit, pea. r*.j&ckioft *ad other ,