A RAINBOW SEASON.

Auckland Star, Volume XLIV, Issue 90, 16 April 1913, Page 8

A RAINBOW SEASON.

HOW XO MAKE A FASHIONABXX HAT.

FASHION NOTES FROM LONDON. I (From Our Lady' Correspondent.) S •*> LONDON, March 7. , I If you would be a very fashionable lady you must incline to the freakish. That "was to be expected —the sweet reasonableness of the early weeks of the year was too good to last. But if you are deft of finger, and recognise that sure boldness that'is the cachet of the first-class milliner, it is not really a bit difficult to create a thoroughly fashionable toque at home. At least this style of headgaar does save you from the pitfalls that brims present to the amateur. Some little brim it is best to have, and this an upcurled ledge of crinoline or mohair of some up-to-date colour, s:iy gazelle, the beautiful deep creamy-fawn whose name ie a standee of genius. The crown must be round, and on to a buckram shape might be pleated a figured foulard of white or dark ground. Now, judging from the final effect, y°u P ull all the foulard as tightly as you can through a knot, and then leave the ends sticking out behind. THE COLOURS OF THE RAINBOW. Even old ladies are to be drawn into the bewildering maelstrom of colour that has descended on the world of dress, and skittish bonnets of palest grey, with a couple of rows of pink, roses in front and a couple of snowy, plumes at the back, and beautiful evening coats, of a very long burnous shape, of pale blue and silver brocaded gauze with frills of silver net at the neck, are but two of the things set out for their delectation and temptation. BEWARE PALE GREY! Grey that tempts so many of us by it 3 exquisite sheen and its promise of economy must be avoided by one inclining to stoutness, for it has a horribly spreading effect. . A fair stoutish girl, with an irreproachable complexion, met at a reception recently, had completely spoiled herself as a girl; and didn't.look a success as a matron, by wearing a gown of beautiful, very soft, grey corded charmeuse under a tunic of grey, decorated -with full-blown pink roses that, though she was tall, made her appear inordinately broad. THE NEW SPRING COLOURS I »re beautiful, though it is mere politeness, as usual, to call some of them new. Tilleul is- like the lime leaf in early autumn, a golden green that looks very well in the new ribbed cloth and in dull silk. Gazelle has already been alluded to. Rose Chatenay is a delicate shade lighter than Rose dv Barri, very juvenile and bright looking, and appearing at its beet in soft silk trimmed with creamy lace. Grafton blue is the warm rich and artistic blue that one sees in delphiniums. Caprin blue is another, happily baptized, for it is just the bine one meets in Italian waters, even to the lights and shades of that lovely shade. Ibis grey is simply, a sort of neutral grey that, being, hard, would not become very many people, and would be very difficult to trim. Sweet lavender is more blue than mauve, but is soft and delicate in tint. Tamarisk is dull green, deeper than reseda with a suggestion of bloc in it. Violette dcs Bois is sharp violet with a tinge of red in it. THE RUOHE IDEA still rules a great deal of the iniMinery ' world now that knotted ruches of a much better description, than those of laet year can be got. Here, again, the craze for 'brilliant colouring can be satisfied.' One black toque of -this week had a ruche of long emerald ostrich feather with, set a-t intervals in it, marguerites of an impossible emerald and -white consistency, nevertheless very effective. LEAF MOUNTS are new ideae that are too reminiscent of French funeral wreathe to be regarded, by those who know the latter, ac very desirable ornamente. The leaves, which are email, are dull, and dyed some very bright colour and mounted on something stiff. BUNCHED EFFECTS attract the good dressmakers, and nearly all gowns, designed for indoor and reception wear have draped skirte, .the fullness being gathered in sometimes -with a buckle of the material'at one knee, sometimes Tuched .right down the centre of the skirt, occasionally beginning h-alf-. way down. WHITE LININGS . appear just as often as those that match •the Material of the coat, all those who like to wear light blouses will be glad'to •know. , : SILK EMBROIDERED NUfON, that 'ie to Bay, ninon ornamented, as it can be bought now -with large eilk flowers worked in filoselle, is an investment not to be made thoughtlessly .by the girl •with not overmuch pocket-money, for the heavy nature of the embroidery drage the ninon out of shape in averv xsjumey. fashion. SPIRAL FEATHERS ,are. novelties in name, but aje just plumes twisted' like corkscrews and towering at one eidc of a forhnleee toque. |: . .-., A' TATTED TUNIC ■is one of -this week's special efforts, and is more •succeeeful 'than it probably sounds. This particular one was of very pale grey over soft grey cashmere, was a fiort of pinafore from the corsage- to the knees, and was designed for a slight, petite figure. (VIOLET, ■in spite of its long run, h-as not yet exhausted Hβ popularity, and conies fresh into spring fashions. A neat, ehiny silk .'braid in. violet outlining black trlcorne ■hii'ts.Je both serviceable and effective. Violet feather ruffe certainly have been overdone. ■ .;• '■" iWAISTCOAT-S, •■ ■•■■ ■. ■ and no feminine dainties, but masculine' ■in cirfc almost in chape (want of shape!) accompany numbers of the newest coats and ekirte.. .With these the coats, which are slightly cut -away with flat revers such as on a man's dress 6uit, are generally below hip length. , n AN EASY METHOD of cleaning white or light furs that is not generally known, is that of mixinoa paste of benzoline and bran, rubbin* at .into the fur and allowing it to dry* When _dry,it will shake out, taking the dirt with it. '