PARIS FASHION NOTES.

Auckland Star, Volume XLIV, Issue 28, 1 February 1913, Page 18

PARIS FASHION NOTES.

. , ißv A PARISIAN EXPERT.) ( c PARIS. Xavember 23. j T Evening gowns are just now occupying ' " he attention of the authorities to a. • Teat extent, for it is always in Novem- | c •er that Dame Fashion ma.ices up her j * oind. Until the advent of this decisive 1 aonih. she dilly-dallies with new'ideas, j J randering into this region, and down I - ide paths, wondering what she might;-" nake of this, or that, or tbe other whim ! ] rhich occurred to ber fertile fancy. She ! \ ias interpreted and found wanting the j j -arious departures from the ideal of the 1 ' iast six months. j > THREE NEW STYLES FOR THE ' ( OMTX<; SEASON. ' ' Among those whose businp._s h _? to j •reate models, three very distinct style* i ire being discussed, and possibly 'hey' ' nay all be received with equal favour, j ' rhe first is the Louis XVI. style, which j ; Aill bring t-o the from soft aDd silky I -nateriais. such as shot taffetas and ; Fekin in two shades, worked out a-cx-ord-:ng lo the manner of the period. The- ' models aircn-dy familiar to i.s will con- I tribute towards the generaiising of small I waists, and tightly adjusted sashes tied : in bow-s at the back. The short skirt will 1* trimmed a: the bottom with ruching, rufnes. purTmgs. I and garlands. The bodice witn elbow sleeves will be covered with the graceful lace or the tulle fichu so often seen on I last summer's airy toilettes. This orna- I ment. so practical and becoming, may j have been the principal factor in bring ing back tbe deiightfcl modes of tbe i eighteenth century. Hut several of the j more modern estabiisl ments are rebel- I lious to these evocations of time- gone i by. They wish to create and to adapt : themselves entirely to the demands of i modern woman. These dressmakers wi.l prove faithful to tlie straight and simple i lines. Skirts will v _> narrow, waists short, sleeves wide with kimono arm- i holes, nnd tbe silhouette will enaeavour . to keep the narrow, graceful line t-i which the eve is now so fully accustomed. The novelty t v i- style is to assume this season will consist ehiefiy in the daring mixture of crude colours and embroidery. These light "nothinsr*." unlined. untrimmed. and half sewn, are what can be t.-rtn-- i the toilettes of the. present day. The third style whi'h is inviting rr-no- ! vation has the- iea-t chance of race-ess. i It is the styie of the Seooad Empire, re- < calling the pictures of the early fifties. | This period last summer ga". c short flounced skirts Should this heavy and ungraceful styie l«ad back To the much talked-of crinoline. bow far would fashion be \vaDC p nti:: from the good taste of the present day. I; i- io so hoped that tbe nineteenth century will only adopt the lace flounces, black velvet ribbon irtmmir.-. and velvet or steel button', which adorned the most ci.-- . gsnt toilettes of those days, and the shawls and r-aebemires. Cmc can be very ! sure that the ample dresses gathered in at the waist, the hats with strings and '• falline rufSps. and the elastic- shoes with 1 flat heels, would find no favonr among . the grand daughters of a Second Empire beauty. OUR SKETX li. j A fascinating exponent - :' the more j modem school of dressmakers, and a I thor-■•irrhl;- up-to-date ev-ring gown. ! finds pit- rial expression on this pag'-. It is fashioned of palest ochre-tinted satin, the trained skirt in "point d» Malines."" line! in white chiffon, and the tunic in satin. Th-- deoolletage is a pointed one. and adorned with silken tassels, ns is also the curiously-shaped !'" fish-tail *' tram. The sl-eves, and the i corsage are entirely of lace, while a wide velvet belt in the palest -hade of rose-pink finishes ..ff this simple dress of novel and youthful aspect.

Blouses are like hat?—one never can < i have too many of t_«*m. Moreover, the ! ! soft, dainty one? making their appear- . jane- at the present time oGer change j | and variety after the heavy velvet and j ' satin dresses worn last -inter. This , sea.-on. when laces are used in every I | possible manner, it is predicted that lace j blouses will be extensively worn. VeneI tian lace -"ill bead the list, it is claimed. ■ There will be more blouses made of this i lace than of any other. This dot-- not 1 mean that the entire blouse will be of ' this one lace: quite the contrary, for it | has been proved that it is necessary to ! combine severed different kinds of laces I into one blouse, if any satisfactory rei suits are to be obtained. English eyelet i embroidery -srill be combined with fiiet !or Milan lace. and Irish lace will make : its reappearance in a modest way, by forming little medallions placed here and I there over a linen surface heavily embroidered in raised designs. Several years ago there was a decided i craze for lace biouses. but in many instances the lace used sis of one loud— "Irish lav-?. The woman wiro did not pos- ' sess> an Irish lace blouse considered he.r- ---,! sehf very much abused. Yet these Irish | lace blouses were far from becomin!:. : Even the most gorgeous creations did ! rjoi have just the right touch to make ; thsm smart a= well as beautiful to look I upon." The shop' who made a speciality of blouses aekmowledg-d the truth of th_s. and finally, in despair, gave tip •; rrving.

A NEW WAY OF I-E-sOVATESTG ! h'UM-lE?. DRESSES. IIf a woman has some of those pretty j embroidered linen dresses, so popular | during August, she ctan easily veil them 1 with some bright coloured mousse'ine de soie, tunic shaped, or lulling to the bottom of tbe skirl, according to tbe de-sign of the embroidery, and finished off with j a gold or silver fringe, providing that this -_.rmoni.scs with the shade of the • mousseline. Otherwise thfy can be more simply trimmed with silk fringe of the ■ same colour. Trie bodice L? covered with i.iou-_.c!ln< rr.---- i in riihu shape, and! a.so trimmed w.;h i tr.tr:-. The re-it is of black satin -lib two wide flat j bands. To make these tunics more elegant, they can be emo*-Dished wi:h snk embroidery forming an c.iging. and running up the sides. A novelty is to veil a plain white foundation. 1— it silk or r-inon. with two thicknesses of mousse-line de soie ,-,f ,-.-,□- trasting -had*., lor instance, pale pink co c-r light blue-, mauve over nattier blue, or ri ■>• versa: green over grey, or grey over green. ihe first mousseiin- may !••■ einbrt iderf-d. and the second "tie plain wi:h a frin_-'-d eaginrr. fir else. the contrary can be doDe. in t::'_s c a .s< the fringe is replaced by embroidery. Quite one of tbe latest modes is a black foundation covered with cornflower blue. this being veiled with black., allowing the blue to be s^e n only on »A. h side of the skirt, and a* the t'.p of the bodje-e. -here the blue i> heavily embroidered in a similar tone. A crushed Ftrawberry foundation car. be entirely veiled with bla-'k mousse'.ine de soie. A £:!•■*. lace tunic- of a delical-e o.hre shade, and w itb _ cotton trine.-, wa.s worn over this, the ensemble being finished oil with a black : satin -a.-!.. SEASON"-: MTI-UXEEY I'NTOMM< 'N'LV ATTRA< TIVK. Many of the -■■■■■■• hats, both iarpe and sr.iai'.. ha'.e t.rin.s iuc-e-d with contrasting colour. White v.iiet fact-; some of th- best looking big bnt- in black ...r s 'Cjhre coiour. ana though easily soiled. iis extremely soft and becoming nest t i :-..- far--. S .-....- large n.ode!=> in black vi-:v.-: fac-d with flesh pink velvet are attractive, arid, of course, there arf many more violent coiour contrasts furnished by brim fa. :ngs. A brilliant colour n\t the face i- seldom becoming vh- n a -oman has left ber debutante days behind, but th:- fact is often for- | getter.. Coloured hats faced in black j are legion, and light or bright-coloured ;bats ha\o often relied brims faced with I dark or neutral colour taupe or seal or j panne in place ..f black, '"bam-.i- colour and the vari"U.- cicanty beige tones, once riassed ns charipag-r..- ...icii'inj l . are liked when faced with black or dark