EXPERIENCES OF A BRITISH SUBJECT IN SAMOA.

Auckland Star, Volume XLI, Issue 161, 9 July 1910, Page 13

EXPERIENCES OF A BRITISH SUBJECT IN SAMOA.

. (By An Old Leyslan.^ 16ts under foreign governments, but TCI niiuci loicigii y<>!.<.. ) under -fclieir- .own £La-S they are failures. Tlie reason to a, great extent is *lye niotliods and ways of tlio aflminiswavioiv of their own colonies. As a Britisher, who iias lived in British, colonies for tlie last ten. years, and' enjoyed ;the freedom and rights of a citizen in these colonies, and "who, after a T>rie£ sojourn in a German. colony 3 can now appredate fully that freedom that the British rule gives to her colonists, would like to give to 'the Uew Zealanders my experiences, in order that they may appreciate the conditions under which they live, and be contented to hold up and be proud of the flag under which they live. Being a young man with an excellent education, a good constitution, and full of energy and ambition, and having a romantic idea that to one who is willing to put up with inconveniences, and being prepared to rough it, that there was a good chance to make one's fortune in about five years in the Pacific Islands, I immediately made up my mind to try my luck in those islands. After obtaining letters of introduction to various Vueiness people, traders and planters and a few encouraging , words from an old , and wealthy settler, I booked my passage for German S?,moa. The first shock that strikes my mountain of hopes and ambitions coiaes while ■booking my passage at the Union S.S. Co.'s office, the courteous 'booking official informing mc that it is necessary that I should deposit the sum of twentyfive pounds over and above my fare before they can issue mc a ticket for Samoa. This sum, he informs mc, is required by the German authorities from all immigrants going to Samoa; tourists breaking their journey at Samoa are not exempt, but the official tells mc the sum is returned to mc by the German authorities after I- have become settled, and have a ,position,,,and they are satisfied as to -my respectability; So with the assurance (that the money will be returned, I pay the £25, take a second-class ticket to save expense, board the t.s.s. Tofua, and amidst a howling gale and a deluge of rain, steam up the Auckland harbour. Despite the weather conditions, I am in high spirits, being full of hopes for the future. A GLIMPSE OF TONGA. After making an inspection of my cabin, I find I have a caTrin companion, and we introduce ourselves. My cabin companion, I find, to my delight, is a very old resident of Tonga, formerly an old sailor, who was wrecked in. the Pacific over 25 years ago, and was originally in Samoa, but went over to Tonga, and has been trading for over 20 years in the Tongan group. He was a most interesting character, and delighted mc with his tales and experiences in the old Island days. From him I got many valuable hint 3 and advice as to conditions and customs of Island life. On the fourth day out from Auckland we sighted ihe island of Ata, of the Tongan group, in the early morning, my cabin companion telling mc that the meaningof Ata was "standing alone," which name I considered was appropriate. At 10 a.m. we caught our first glimpse of the principal island of the Tongan group; we steamed quite close to the island , , and the sight of the deep blue Pacific Ocean dashing against the coral reefs, and throwing up huge columns of epray, was a sight never to be forgotter. These huge columns of spray conveyed an impression of geysers, but they arc caused by the force of ihe breakers upon the . reef, and finding an outlet through holes in the reef; this phenomenon is named "The Blow Holes of Houma." At 1.45 p.m., on Sunday, we were alongside the ferro-concrete wharf of the port of Nukualofa. We stayed in Nukualofa till 4 p.m. the following" day, Monday, when we sailed forHaa- %- pai, arriving at Haapai early the following morning, Tuesday. Leaving Haapai on the afternoon of the same day, we sailed for Vavau, arriving at Yavau about 6 a.m. the following morning, Wednesday. After a stay in Vavau for about eight hours, we then left our last port of call till we reach Samoa.

FIRST, IMPRESSIONS OF SAMOA. We dropped anchor in Samoa at Bi3o p.m. on the 7th day of April. At last I had reached the land where all my hopes and ambitions were centred in! The night "being dark, and despite the fact that I -was eager and curious to get ashore, I decided to stay aboard that night, and wait for the morning, when I could view my Land of Promise under favourable conditions. I was early astir the following morning. After breakfast I interviewed the German Custom Officer, who was on board, and informed him I was desirous of taking my luggage ashore, and also that I had no new goods or dutiable assets. He asked mc if: I had any firearms, and after receiving, a negative reply,Jhe allowed mc to take my luggage ashore with the native boatman I .had hired for the purpose. After a sturdy pull-by two native rowers, I landed with, my goods and chattels safely on German soil at 10 a.jn. in the morning. Going straight to the hotel, and engaging a room, and paying off my boatmen, I decided to go round .and. present my letters of., introduction to the various addressees, in the hope that I would be able to obtain employment immediately, or. advice' as to "where I-might obtain such. I spent the whole of the morning walking round and presenting my letters.. From the various gentlemen interviewed, I got kindly /words and advice, but, as usual in of this kind, they had nothing to offer mc at present, bat "would-let-imeJatans , * JEhe-daye-ibea

gan to slip by, and I amused myself by taking long walks into tne country and viewing tlhe various sights of interest, the tropical vegetation, and studying the native ways and customs, and learning as much as possible the native language. . ':.

Thus a fortnight slipped past, and I then resolved to make another round . to. my prospective employers. At last I am given hope of a billet being offered, the charge of an up-country trading station at Ealifa. Accepting this position, I embarked in an oil launch of about two tons register, which boasted of a captain,,first mate (bobh natives), and a half-oaste engineer. Tie journey was not quite devoid of interest. The engine broke down about half-a-dozen times, and with the aid of a and slight breeze -we were able to arrive at our destination, a distance of about 20 miles, in six hours. On one or two occasions, when the engine was resting, and the 'breeze dropped, we got rather too near the reef to be pleasant, but, mainly owing to Providence and. the curses of the native captain, we were spa Ted from a very unpleasant situation. THE lIFE OF A TRADER. Being rowed ashore by the first mate, I make my way to the station, which was quite close to the beach, and introduce myself to the trader that 1 am to relieve. I found him in the copra shed busy weighing out copra from the natives, and after a few words', of introduction, intakes W over to tlie homestead. 'J?h.e '"if 'I'll Fγ" o"*,,0"* ,, o,h l ftw> numobSi" wue, £l lull tampan, ana Inen prepariIn 'tlie 2neantime I am shown xound. the premises. 'J)h e siore and" house a.l' 6 UnuM •fclxe 3a.me rroof—-ia, Jong single storey building with a wide verandah, and facing the sea. After a chat, and answering several questions as to where I came from, and how did. I like Samoa, etc., etc., I am informed that "kaT" (food) is ready. The repast was tlio best that ■could, be placed before mc under the circumstances. I ascertained tha.t no fresh meat was to be got here, and no bread. So after a feast of tinned corned beef, taro, the native substitute for bread (which reminded mc of soap), and a cup of tea without milk, we adjourned to the verandah to" sit and enjoy the 800 l breezes of the tropical night.

The next morning I took the opportunity of having a look round the country I found that "there -were frsvo large native villages quite dose, by name Falifa and Faliapunga. About two miles from the homestead -was the French Marist Brothers' Church and mission house, and within a quarter of a mile a very fine and picturesque waterfall. It "was an exceedingly interesting and pretty place. Bananas, coeoanuts, and pine-apples were growing everywhere. There was & charm about my surroundings, but nevertheless there comes a sense of loneliness over one. AN UNPLEASANT JOURNEY. In talking over matters -with the trader I ascertained that 'the furniture in the house belonged to the trader, and that ■when he went away the furniture would go also, and consequently I saw myself in a difficulty, so decided to return to Apia and interview my employer with reference to this matter. After considerable delay a native crew undertook to take mc back. We started on our journey to Apia at midnight, aud this trip .■was about the most miserable and most unecmifoxtable " journey I have experienced. The boat was 18 feet long, and loaded to the'gunwale with copra; In consequence I had to sit cross-legged, or squat the best way I could on top of the copra sacks. It was impassible to row, so the means of propulsion were with long poles. There were five persons on board, a native woman with her l>aby, and three Samoans and jmyself. None of these natives could speak Etglis, so I had plenty of time lor reflection. We hugged the .coast line all the way down, inside the..reef. About half an hour after -we started it commenced to rain, and for the rest of the journey it continued to pour. When it rains in the tropics, it —well, it rains! I was in a white duck suit, there were no means of shelter, and consequently I not only looked but felt miserable. However, we ■were successful In reaching Apia, and after wading through the surf, managed to reach my hotel and welcome civilisation at 6.30 a.m. After a change of clothes and some breakfast, I wended my way to interview my employer, Mr. X. He expressed surprise at seeing mc again so soon, and after I had explained my reason for coming down re the furniture, matters began to get into proper order. Mr. X informed mc that it was the custom for traders to furnish their own stations. At-'thfa I was rather nonplussed, as I could not see my way clear to buy a house full" of furniture, but lie informed mc that he would find mc all the furniture that I required, and give mc plenty of time to pay for the same. I did not feel a.t all pleased witn this arrangement, as I was starting with my new employer in debt; but I was not in a positon to pick and choose, consequently this was agreed to, and the furniture was got together, ready to be shipped in four days' time, when I was to take full control of the station. DIFFICULTY. WITH THE GOVERN.MENT. . The next subject I discussed with Mr X. was with regard to my £25 lying in the hands of the German authorities. I informed Mr X. that.l desired to draw my £25 in order to send it to my. wife in Auckland, to enable her to comedown and join mc. Mr X. informed mc that the .German authorities would require a letter from him to state that I was now in hie employ, and that should I not be in a position to pay my passage out of Samoa he (Mr X.) would do so. A letter to.this effect was given to mc by Mr X., and after -interviewing the Customs authorities without much satisfaction, I was directed to -his Excellency' Dr. Solf, whom I found at his office. After introducing myself and informing him of my business, he handed mc back Mr X.'s letter, arid informed mc that the letter was not sufficient—that he required a personal bond from Mr X. for the full amount of £25. The reason for this demand, he informed mc, /was that Mr X. might only pay my passage as far as Tutuila, the American island in the Samoan Group. I may here state that this -was an unreasonable objection, for his Excellency must have been aware that no person is allowed to land on the island of Tutuila -without permission from the lAmerican Consul. However, I informed his Excellency that no doubt this could be obtained. Hie Excellency then informed mc "that he did not want any petty settlers in Samoa." This rather astounded'me. I asked him then for a definition of a petty settler. His definition was: "A man who-might a charge on the Government, or a. man with only small capital—a small shopkeeper, planter, etc. I only want the capitalist or large companies to live in , Samoa." That is the sentiment of German administration of her colonies, and I could see quite clearly then why the taxes were made retrospective, in order to crush out the email trader; and talki ing afterwards "with a merchant in a. l^ge-sEa^at4n^€as^eiid.-a-attembec-x)i£

the German Chamber of Commerce of Samoa, this merchant told mc of a conversation he had with Dr. Solf, which aniply illustrates his methods. Dr. Solf told this merchant that he (Dr. Solf): could vnot understand, "why-this merchant was dissatisfied with the taxation, as ihe was really the friend of the 'big merchant. Dr. Solf made the taxes; high and retrospective, and in consequence the -. small man or trader found that he could not afford to pay fliese taxes, and conseqirently.vthe smallvinan Tvonld iave to give tup business, and the large, merchant, who "could afford,'would an time get -fche monopoly.. There is the German idea of colonisation. But to resume my interview. I then asked his Excellency, in the case of my now having steady employment, I wished to get my wife to Samoa to join mc, and in that case would it be necessary to put up a further, sum of £25 for her also? His answer was: "Most certainly." I pointed out that .-tire bond for my own £25 would.pay both.our' passages out of Samoa should occasion so happen. His answer, to this was: "That is my law, and I refuse to discuss" the matter with you." So, after informing ;him I was. a British subject, and desired to pay. my respects to hie Excellency, I left his august presence, and wended my way back to' my hotel to fully consider and ■ think out my best plan of action under these distressing circumstances. \

After due consideration I decided to lay the matter before the British Consul. So I start of! to interview the AetingtO. that J nad an assurance for my £25, CO! CllltO I lltta ttll (UIOUIttUCO ioi ml i.mo) =i-T» <3._ th ;it I -was ■ desirous of' getting my position to top SroSicß,liftlHiK that, because I could not pay £25 for my "wife, if I was debarred from accepting this situation, the expense of my trip to Samoa and my time were absolutely wasted. The Consul saw, the justhat he "would interview the Governor and see if the matter could, not be arranged. The next day the Consul informed mc that the Governor refused to allow my wife to land without the necessary tax of £25. So I.gave the Consul instructions to lay my case before Sir Reginald Im Thurn, the British Consul-General of. the Pacific. I then informed. Mr. X. that under the circumstances I was unable to avail myseif of the position he offered. In the meantime I informed a few Britishers that are trading in Samoa of my experience, and they expressed their disgust, but informed mc they-were not surprised, and they. told mc many incidents of their own, and what they have had to put up with from the German administration, which, convinced mc that British settlers are not wanted in Samoa. In the course of a few days a Norwegian tramp steamer called in at Apia, and having no further interest in Samoa, and, again, to save further expense, I availed myself of a passage back to Auckland, which the Norwegian captain was gracious enough to grant mc. So I trust my readers will profit by my experience, and, in conclusion, let mc say that an experience of this sort makes one appreciate the freedom that is en\ joyed under the British flag.