THE GARDEN.

Auckland Star, Volume XL, Issue 204, 27 August 1909, Page 7

THE GARDEN.

NOTICES TO COEBESPONDENTS.

Oranges, Lemons. — It would not do to root prune and pinch hack the above In the same manner as apples, pears, plums, etc.; at least, I 1 bave never seen It successful. Let the trees attain some age and size. If they do not fruit then, root prune slig-htly. It will help, but recollect that the citrous family are too sensitive to stand much Interference with the root. In pruning the upper branches only thin out, not fore-snorten. Rivers' method of summer pinching, I believe, is the best method for pruning which can be adopted in the colonies. I have tried it „with entire success on apples. It seems to mc that, you are allowing every Shoot to glow. Instead of keeping superfluous shoots spurred back. Only allow the number of shoots to grow which will make the permanent hrauches of the tree. Spur the rest back while the trees are growing. If the branches are too strong root prune so as \o reduce their power. I have had trees two feet ten inches high producing forty-two apples. I have never seen the pamphlet you refer to, but would like to read it. Gould you oblige mc with the loan of It. If left at the "Star" ofllce It will be forwarded, and I shall return it to your address. I think you ought to consult "Brett's Colonists' Guide" re fruit tree growing and pruning. You will obtain many valuable hints from it. Pruning Fruit Trees. — Trained fruit trees ;n kind, which have been neglected for two years, if severely will reproduce fruitless wood. Cut out central branchlets, shorten back well placed shoots one-third to half their lengths, so retaining existing flower buds, and insure futore symmetry. Pinch strongest growing shoots back to three or four leaves.

HINTS. Outdoor vine borders, however well drained and constructed, are likely to be wet and unusually cold for the time of year. In all cases where it can be done without interfering unduly with the roots it is desirable to fork the surfaces or break them up roughly an inch or two to insure freer ingress of warmer air. Vines starting into growth "break" more uniformly if the canes are untied from the roof, and the extremities arc forced down to the same level as the base. Not only do they form young shoots more equally throughout their entire length when so treated, but subsequent growth is also of more uniform vigour. Strawberry plantations should again be hoed as deeply as is possible without interfering with their roots, in view of encouraging young roots to start from the collars of the plants, and also to destroy seedling weeds. Where the collars of any plants are unduly exposed, as is more particularly the case when they are two years old, rich soil should be drawn up around them to accelerate the formation of fresh roots. Some plantations have run somewhat wild, so that what were originally rows have so grown together as to have become interlaced. In such instances cut out tbe weak plants with a sharp knife before giving the hoein<r already advised. Autumn sown broad beans bave experienced thus far a very favourable winter season. Hoe freely beside the rows on a fine day when the surface ground is tolerably dry, and draw a little fine mould up towards the plants. Occasional slight dustings of lime or soot, beside the rows, will check the depredations of slugs, etc., which are unusually active this season. ' New Asparagus Beds.—Prepare ground as soon as convenient. Choose a sunny site, and trench or bastard trench it, mixing manure freely amongst the layers. In all good deep loams good crops may be grown by manuring and deep digging. It may be grown in the old way, in beds four and a half feet wide, or in rows across quarters one to three feet asunder, the latter for exceptionally fine produce. Plant in the beginning of September; seed might be sown, but a year or two will be lost in matter of supply. Main crop onion sowings, to be made in the open ground, complete as quickly as possible. Stones, etc., must be raked from the prepared surface, then tread it once over, draw drills not less than inches apart, as shallow as possible, sow thinly, thread the seed into the drills, then scuffle the soil over, so as just to cover them, with the feet. If the Tround is naturally light, again tread it over, then lightly rake it over from end to end of the rows. Onion beds properly prepared in the matter of liberal and deep manuring and trenching, or digging, should have their surfaces made firm by walking to and fro upon them, when dry enough to admit of it without clodding to the shoes. This should be done before the drills' are drawn, said drills to be as shallow as possible. When the seed is sown it also should be pressed down with the foot, to be subsequently covered over also by scuffling the soil from the sides of the drills with the feet, as such practice ensures that it is buried firmly but shallow. Then stones, etc., are. raked off along the lengths of the rows with a proper wooden rake, and tho surface is left level and neatHardy aquatic plants may be said to include "some of the most beautiful members of the vegetable kingdom. First come the Nymphaeas, or water nymphs, honoured by the name of lilies, of which Britain and Canada claim indigenous species, though North America excels in the fact that" it gave us the sweet-scented form N. odorata, of which we are now in possession of many varieties. Of late years many additions from various sources have been made to the list of hardy ones, so that it now numbers more than forty distinct forms. These vary in colour as between crimson, rosy vermilion, pink, yellow and white, all suitable for outdoor culture, the term hardy in the case of all being qualified to the extent that the roots will subsist through the winter with a sufficient depth of water over them to protect them.

The planting of all in ponds or reasonably still waters, and for a permanency, is a simple operation. Place the root (tho growing part protruding) in a bag with rich soil and a brick or two, and sink it. They are also easily grown in water-tight tubs exposed to the sun, and prove decorative amidst artificial rockwork, etc. They greatly appreciate a fresh flushing of water daily.

Besides those of more vigorous growth, there are the two small forms of Chinese Lily, N. pygmaea, and the N. tuberosa forms are interesting.

The water hawthorn or aponogetpn distachyon, with its sweet, quaintlydivided white flowers, a charming subject of a more floating habit, suceeds well in fountain basins and ether waters.

Pontederias, called water hyacinths, though perfect pests in American waters, hindering steamboat traffic with their thickly-flowered spikes of blue flowers and characteristic leaves, are desirable, subject to above conditions. Hpttonia palustris, the water violet, with its submerged funnel-iik% leaves, is another plant, now uncommon, and though not so conspicuous, is interesting. Then there are flowering rush (Butomus umbellatus) with long, triangular leaves; the gras3 of Parnassus, with its comparatively large white flowers, suitable for shady places, arrow heads, and water soldiers.

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