LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

Auckland Star, Volume XXIX, Issue 184, 6 August 1898, Page 1 (Supplement)

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

(From Our London Correspondent.)

Here in the world of fashion we are always looking 1 for something new.;

DEESS NOVELTIES IN THE . . FRENCH CAPITAL.

As this is a season of festivals, X am going to- tell you to-day about some very pretty sleeves and a couple of dainty hair ornaments. Two of the sleeves illustrated are for day dresses, the other is a very pretty ornament for an evening dress, which just covers the upper part of the arm to a modified extent by means •of lace laced with black velvet, and held together with little bows buckled with steel.

A fall of soft lace with ribbon bows completes this dainty sleeve. In one of the two sketches will be seen an ornamentation of tucks, which are not carried all the way round the arm, giving- thus a little fulness and a great deal of comfort to the elbow and the back of the arm. A band of braid encrustation edged with fur trims the upper part. Nearly all the coats are now made with a point upon the hand finished with ruffles of lace. The third sleeve is one of the elaborate

kind to which we axe at present being treated. Every sort of ornamentation seems crowded upon it. There is a little shoulder puff edged with a frill, there is a closely gauged back of chiffon or mousseline de soie, and the inside of the arm is composed of lace over silk with bands of velvet at the top. This is a pretty sleeve for a blouse or for an afternoon dress carried out in one or two of the flimsy materials. For day functions in one's own home a dress may now be almost as light and airy as if it were * summer and yet be in perfect taste.

Of course of interest to women is the model of the 1898 shirt waist. Madras, percales, cheviots, pique, duck and gingham are the f avpurite materials for the advance styles. It is to be a season of stripes; therefore stripes broad and narrow, gorgeous Roman stripes and' longitudinal tucks, all vivid colour effects, go to make the new shirt waist a thing of beauty. Sleeves are decidedly smaller, the cuff being narrow, with button holes rather far back, so that the link buttons draw the edges closely together. The shirring lies only an inch or more about the neck and does not extend down the shoulder seams. The front yoke is obsolete. The fulness pouches over into a blouse at the waist line. A fitted back displays a conventional yoke. Four studs in Oriental designs are the latest things, and have tiny chains at the back to insure their safety. The high, stiff choker is always correct, but first place is given to the broad turn-over collar with rounded edges shown in the illustration. The corners are an inch apart, but the neck is fully covered by the broad lappings of the collar. A club tie is the proper thing for this collar.

The latest belts to be worn with shirt waists are of seal and patent leather, being about two inches in width in the back and narrowing to less than an inch in front. Harness buckles are still in vogue, but are now

detachable, so that they .can be replaced by handsome ones it so desired. All of the new belts show the useful hook placed underneath a,t the back to hold the skirt up.

The newest petticoats are made to fit the hips, all fulness being given with deep flounces, which are io shaped that the fulness is. almost imperceptible where the flounce is joined

to the short skirt. Pale coloured silks ' are used for evening skirts, and these : are liberally adorned with lace, frills, ' anVl ruches of silk- or chiffon. Nun's ' veiling in pale shades makes charming '. petticoats trimmed with frills of lace ■ and rows of small tucks, at very little"; cost. <

The hats at present worn' are of the • most startling description. Vivid ■ green, brilliant blue, bright pink are ," all favourite colours. As ;to shapes,' ' there is an infinite variety. A brim * which tilts over the eyebrows, or one .*' that turns off decidedly from the face", in front are equally fashionable. There ; is a great fancy.'1 for'sky-blue wings \ dotted with black sequins in the latest r millinery. These are placed in- all ' positions, and on all styles.

AN IMPORTANT TOILETTE,

The girl who wishes to be her own dressmaker when the most important toilette of all—hir wedding gown—is

in question need not shrink from the ■ effort if she has as economical and V reliable a pattern as the one show.n to-day to guide her quivering scissors. , A more than passing glance should be given at the sketch,forit wiilsfi!B'?f; that- economical considerations haves-, entered into the designing- of this toilette,.which, .after being usecl fgy, , the wedding, can quite , easily be . adapted for evening wear by the removal of. the little chemisette and sleeves, which are composed entirely of frjlls of lace mounted upon lisse, with an effect that is at once airy and dressy.. Again, the chemisette and sleeves may be used " . - -_ < "UPON--A THEATEE BODICE, for it is not now the fashion in the dress seats to be seen with low de-• collel?age and short sleeves, or they-; should figure- in a dressy blouse -for impromptu evening, parties. ' : . The skirt pattern of the dress is in ": five pieces.. The three back widths: should be interlined throughout with ; muslin or.leno, to give them a stiffness and make them stand out well, but the [ remainder of the skirt will want in- ; terlining to 14in upwards only with < leno or muslin. The bodice is made with a fitted lining fastened down the centre front, to receive the material which is carried over to the left side and hooked beneath a jabot frill of soft lace. Fifteen yards of satin are required for this dress and one and a half dozen yards of lace. If liked a little pearl passementerie may surround the decolletage, but though pearls area great deal used now upon bridal dresses they are held to mean tears, and are therefore refused by superstitious people. On the other hand, turquoises have mingled with diamante trimming on some of the smartest bridal gowns lately. Blue is the bridal colour, and brings hick to -her who wears it.

ROSELLE. ij

' Oh, mamma, 5 asked a little girl, ' why does the preacher always say "lastly" ia the middle of his sermon V