LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

Auckland Star, Volume XXVIII, Issue 258, 6 November 1897, Page 1 (Supplement)

LONDON AND PARIS FASHIONS.

(From Our London Correspondent.)

EEGENT-STEEET, Aug. 14,

Never before have more beautiful, costly, or tasteful toilets been seen in this great city of the world (London) than those worn by the aristocracy and the wealthy of our own country, augmented by the countless distinguished strangers within our gates during the wonderful Commemoration week. In compliment, of course, to the Eoyal Lady the heroine of that historical hour, early Victorian modes have been largely employed, though no one can honestly enthuse over them but the elderly, who still cling to the fiction that all the fashions

of their youth were vastly more : becoming than any present ones, as firmly.as they believe all women were more lovely and men finer when they were young and criticised with the eyes and hearts of youth than any of the present generation —an accusation of degeneration we hear with calmness and a cheerful conviction that the disparagement is quite groundless. On the wonderful procession day, at the windows of the Clubs, and 'the Seats of the Mighty,' as someone described the aristocratic points. of vantage secured by social importance and the mighty dollar, were many 'coal-scuttle' bonnets in all their early Victorian ugliness.

In the Park, at the races, at Garden Parties, and on the 'Front' at Brighton —that fine field for Fashion in her more daring aspects—the Kecord bonnet has also been in evidence, but, like the coiffure of the same trying period, it demands a fresh, pretty face to make it at all acceptable. I made a sketch of one seen in Fig. 1 The shape was of drawn white chiffon and was trimmed with white satin ribbon and two high ostrich plumes. This looked well on a pretty. dark

girl with rocy cheeks, who was, moreover, blessed with that mysterious and indefinable attribute—style.

Fig. 2 embodies one smart little gown of the again popular black and white' check. This had a perfectly plain skirt -with four rows of narrow ribbon velvet just above the hem. The bodice was of the blouse family, and made pouch fashion. The neck was exit square back and front, and trimmed with cross bars of the ribbon velvet, three rows of which also encircled the sleeves just below the shoulder puffs, the battlemented wrists being also trimmed. with. the same. This novel .bodice was worn over a white cambric shirt, with, an '1830.collar tied by a cherry-coloured bow of ribbon, which corresponded with the trimmings of cherry-coloured tulle and feathers on the jetted straw hat.

Apropos of these, turn-over collars, why. they are dubbed IS3O is a mystery, as linen collars and cuffs for women were unknown in those

clays, and, unless I am mistaken, it must have been some ten or fifteen years after when they were first introduced, and we have been told were first worn by a famous actress of the time ou the'stage, which, even then, had considerable influence on dress, though not such.a sweeping.one as it now- has we imagine. -.;.,._;

To return to 'our muttons'— which the linen collar has lured .__<; from—Fig. .3 reveals another no t_ . from the same source as the previous two sketches. This is a pretty toilet • of black and white striped ~'giace silk, with Tom Thumb flounces^n skirt and shoulders. The bodice is worn over a draped vest of black chiffon, bordered on either side by the same, scolloped and embroidered with white silk. The collar and ruff are also of black chiffon, the wrist ruffles corresponding. White kid gloves and a. hat- of black chiffon vvith black feathers, red and yellow roses, completed the tout ensemble.

White kid gloves—mostly stitched ' with black—by-the-bye, are the wear at the present moment for day toilets. ' The outside of the loup and the platter in no way applies to the parasols of this season, for the; outside of the shade in five cases out of six is of perfectly plain silk, whatever the ? colour—though occasionally supple- ■ mented with lace applique. The in-" sides, however, • are fequfcntly most elaborate and ornate with infinitesimal frill upon frill of chiffon, lace, or tulle; ropes of small flowers, sequins and pailettes; but the great feature of the '97 en tout cas is its handle. This is of various fine and beautiful woods, of ivory, silver and—the wealthier—gold. Carved heads of: animals, birds, and snakes are the mode with jewelled eyes; and, in fact, fancy and costliness run. riot ■ over the parasol handle of the present moment. ■

The evil day of the trimmed skirt is : not yet entirely upon us, and may even yet'be escaped. Drawing-room gowns have fully trimmed skirts, but then they have always been more or less decorated. Ball-room 'gowns are showing many frills and jfurbelows; but' for ordinary wear only mild innovations have as yet been embarked upon, and then with very lukewarm enthusiasm. ~'( 'v. '***'' EOSELLE :''-